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I should work. I use the timing retard curve, which lets me control the timing vs RPM. I pull back I think 25 degrees below 1000RPM for starting. Makes a 13:1 motor much easier on the starter

If it is a vintage racer, and it was raced back in the day with the crank trigger, it would be legal. I don't know of any pre 72' vehicles that came from the factory with a crank trigger. Since my car was never raced back in the day, I need to conform to the rules for the class, which requires a distributor trigger.

I am sending you a A11-601-000 today. Hopefully it works for you. Pete

Brian at ZCC has the IMSA kit: http://www.zccjdm.com/

I have a 78' ECM. Not sure if it's good, but you can have it for the cost of shipping.

At a minimum, I would just make the transition from the intake to the head as smooth as possible. Trim the gasket to match the head, and then use the gasket as a template for porting the intake. I would transition smoothly from the carb port diameter to the head port diameter. I've never done a comparison (with vs. without port matching), but all of the engines I have built have had this simple port matching, and they all make good power.

Put the clear plastic one before the pump! Use an OEM metal canister type after the pump.

P90 or P90A head, and F54 block.

A little silver paint?

Copper spray just on the gasket. I use the NIS-01 + 3.425 (87mm bore) 0.079" thickness (2mm) from: http://www.husseycopper.com/HusseyPerformance/Gaskets.htm Call them and they can tell you what thickneses are available. Stock gasket thickness is 1.25mm (0.0492")

I've used these before with good results: http://www.professional-products.com/dampersProductNissan.php

Just clean the seam really well to remove any oil. Use acetone or another wax/grease remover. Just make sure it is super clean and dry of all oil. Then just put a bead of clear silicone sealant around the seam. I've done this a bunch of times and it works well. Pete

Yes, clean everything extremely well (but you should be doing that anyway). Make sure it is clean and dry and there is no oily residue. Yes, the head and block need to be flat (again, you should make sure of this anyway). 3-4 coats of this: Let it tack up overnight. Pete

The OEM gasket should work fine with an 87mm bore. But as with anything, take measurements, check. Boost will not blowout a copper gasket. There is no safety valve as with an MLS gasket. You see a lit of copper gaskets in top fuel NHRA funny cars / dragsters.

Why is it people think that you need a metal gasket for turbos? The Nissan OEM gasket will work fine as is up to 15-16psi. If you need better sealing, you can groove the block just outside the fire ring and add sealing wire: http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/engine/mopp_0108_isky_groove_o_matic/photo_09.html I've been running an OEM gasket for at least 10 years now @15psi. Lots of track days, no issues (no detonation though). Which brings up another advantage of the OEM gasket. If you detonate with an OEM gasket you will probably just blow the gasket. If you detonate with a metal gasket, you will break ring lands. What is easier to fix? Or, you can order a copper gasket from Hussey in the thickness and bore you want. $100 delivered (got the one for my race motor in two days). Yes, it would be great if Cometic, or Cosworth would start making L6 gaskets. Chances are they won't. The problem with the Big bore MLS gasket from Tomei is that it is only 90mm bore. This leaves I nice groove around the combustion chamber for detonation to develop. The Kameari I believe is also available in an 86mm version. Big bucks though.

Lightening the flywheel, damper, crank too much will make it undrivable on the street.

And they rent race cars too...

I think you might have sent me an email. My machinist was making one in his spare time. Not sure if he finished it. I will check. I also have a couple other sources. Let me check. Edit: just checked. He's not finished with it. Try McKinney motorsports, they have an RB26 torque plate. It will work fine on an L6 (used it on my race motor build). Pete

The Arizona Z forged flywheel and clutch kit is an excellent setup. Pete

Very nice!

I'm not familiar with that mod. So far this setup has worked fine on the dyno and limited track time.

I'm using an 82'-83' 280ZXT distributor to trigger an MSDAL2 programmable unit. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/97010-280zxt-distributor-with-progammable-msd/page__p__911073__fromsearch__1#entry911073

David, maybe we'll get some good clips at the convention. The clutch is slipping when the power comes on, so we got some work to do this week. Stay tuned...

More pics.

Burton, Is a turbo legal in G/GT? If so, you can build an L28 or RB26 turbo and most likely meet your power goals. Pete