z-ya

You could call them comp, but they are DOT. Hoosier makes a 275-35ZR15. OK, they are comp... Not a great selection in 15". There used to be tons of tires available in 225-50R15. Now there are only one or two street tires available in that size.

You don't need resistors. You just need to turn the PWM on and set the parameters. For starters, set the PWM Current Limit to 30% and the PWM Time Threshold to 1.5ms. If you don't enable PWM without resistors you can damage your injectors or drivers. You can read more in the FAQ section: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/55910-injector-opening-times-spread-sheet/

Try the parts wanted forum.

I have the Betamotorsports hood on my race car (and the hatch too), and it is a nice piece for sure. But adding hinge support is a lot of work (I considered doing it). I think you would be better off find a new or used one that has the inner frame and hinge mounts. Just my $0.02.

No provisions for hinges on the beta motorsports hoods.

Do you have any other stock pads that are in good shape (not a lot of wear)? If you do, use them as the orientation won't matter. I have a huge bag of them. I could probably put a set together in decent shape.

SVRA does Sebring in March.

Yes. I don't think this will work because the BT dongle needs a host to load the device driver (so does the serial to USB adapter). You could plug the serial to USB adapter to a laptop with BT, and then go wireless from there to your Android. Serial -> USB -> Netbook -> BT Dongle -> Android should work.

Unless you're winning a lot of races, it doesn't really matter. I'm running 160 jets in my bored to 50mm Mikunis. My 1mm over 13:1 L28 makes about the same power thanks mainly to the BSR E31 head. It's got a very narrow power band though. What was it making before the recent work?

My question is on the serial->BT dongle. I'm thinking that using a serial->USB adapter in the MS with a BT dongle will not work.

See attached. MSII-280ZXT-Wiring.pdf

Did anyone get the Bluetooth adapter to work with one of those USB to serial converters? It seems like the Bluetooth dongle would require a host PC.

From a hardware perspective it should work. It gets power from the PC, so no changes should be required. From a software perspective it should work if the driver for this product appears as a normal COM port to the operating system. Megatune should then be able to see it.

It really depends on which MSD box you plan on using. The normal 6AL box is really setup for magnetic type triggers, not a voltage pulse. There are plenty of ignition boxes that will except a voltage pulse. Most will accept a positive going input pulse from 5 to 12V. The 6AL-2 Programmable I use in my race car and trigger it with a 12V pulse.

Most all modern ignition modules accept a 5V positive going pulse with the width of the pulse being the dwell. I setup a system for someone that did exactly what you are asking. I used the ignition output to fire the 280ZXT module that mounts on the coil bracket. I'm pretty sure the MSII settings for the ignition were "positive, going high", but if you PM me I will send a schematic and MSQ file (files on another computer).

If it fits into an L28E timing cover and spins freely then it is a gas pump. You need to trim the tip of the impeller housing in the timing cover to clear the larger diesel impeller. Where did you order it?

What are the other specs on the motor? Rods, pistons, compression ratio, etc. Also, which group do you run in with HSR, group 3i? In SVRA and VRG a 3.1L puts you in with some much faster company... I built my 2.8L so that I could compete with the 2.8L in a 240Z shell with the 280Z weight penalty.

For a CR of around 9.0:1 (my estimate), a copper gasket might seal. I know with my 13:1 race motor, it couldn't hold the compression with ARP studs torqued to 60ft-lbs. You really need to machine with a groove for wire to get a copper gasket to seal under extreme conditions. The compressed thickness of a stock gasket is pretty close to 1.25mm (maybe a few thousands under). MLS gaskets are really expensive (~$300), and are made for big bore applications. And, there is not safety valve if you have a detonation problem and you don't detect it. A stock gasket will blow, saving your cast pistons. Just use an OEM style gasket (~1.25mm). If you need help getting one to Europe, I can probably help you. Pete

The stock clearance is somewhere in the 0.75 to 0.95mm range. With Felpro you will be around 0.5mm. I don't know how much L6 rods stretch at high RPMs. What will be the redline on this motor? Basically you want to minimize the P to H clearance while accounting for rod stretch, and then add some padding. With a stock gasket (1.25mm) you will be safe for sure. This is what I would use. Pete

An RB torque plate will also work. It doesn't need to be the exact bore you planning on honing the engine to. In fact most all of them are 91mm for obvious reasons. McKinney has one they will rent. My machinist has been working on mine for months now. I'll give him a call to see if he can finish it up.

This sounds like a really bad idea. I'd say it's a good way to ruin your bearings and camshaft.

I may sell the set I have. Send me a PM in a few weeks. Thanks, Pete

I think the most important thing is to keep the RPMs above 2000 so that there is plenty of oil getting to cam and rocker arms. Don't let it idle much for the first 5-10 minutes of running. Valvoline VR is a good break in oil because it contains zinc and phosphorus. And since it is relatively inexpensive, you don't feel all that bad draining it after the first hour or so of running. Add some Redline break in additive along with the Valvoline VR.

Didn't look at page two. Looks safe on the top end. I ran ITM pistons in my previous race engine and didn't have any issues. I never ran it much more than 6200RPM. It was still running great after 3+ years of events. As you can see, it didn't make any more power over 5800RPM, so I only ran it to 6200RPM where the track conditions required it. This motor was 10:1 CR, N47, mild cam, no head work, and Megasquirt EFI. Forged pistons are less likely to shatter under extreme loads. The higher the RPM and CR, the higher the piston and rod loads.

Maybe new engines, but not when it comes to an L series engine. Especially when using a high lift cam and heavy duty springs. Get as much oil on the cam during break in as possible. Use a high zinc and phosphorus break in additive or oil. This also helps with bearing break in.