z-ya

You can probably find a set of GM LS-1 or Vortec coils with the built in igniters for less than $8 used (or another COP). Factory sealed, OEM quality, easy to buy a replacement if you have to. I would only use a single VB921 or equivalent in a distributor setup, but rigging up 6 of them in some sort of enclosure that can handle shock, vib, and the elements is difficult. Not worth the effort when you buy something better for the same or less.

You can use either block to build your motor. If you are going to do a stroker and bore to 89mm, I would use the N42. If you plan on building a hot 2.8L NA, the F54 will work just fine. A friend of mine builds his SCCA GT2 2.8 L28 motors using F54 blocks only. These are 15:1+ CR, dry sump, etc. etc. So the F54 is a strong block if not over bored. Plenty strong for all NA applications and just about all turbo builds.

Jagster, You don't need the 15/16" MC, it will just require more pedal effort. Use the 280Z booster, and 7/8" MC with the stock brakes and you will be amazed at the braking. Just get your stock brakes in tip top working order, and you will not have any problems stopping on the street or at the drags.

The is a great alternative to the stock brakes. They work well with the stock booster and proportioning valve. It is pretty much a bolt on setup. the only thing I don't like about this particular assortment of parts is the rotors. For street use, they are fine. For track use, drilled rotors are not a good idea. Get a set of Brembo or Mountain (Japan) brand replacement rotors, they work much better than drilled/slotted ones. If you are not doing tracks days and have high horsepower, these brakes are more than sufficient. I use this setup on my road racer with stock rear drum brakes and they work great. Balance is great, and with my 180WHP, I get more than a dozen track days out of a set of pads. Yes, the Wilwood setup is better, but to get the system to work correctly, you need to get an adjustable prop valve and balance the system. It also depends on what rear brakes and the MC you run. It take a lot of experimenting to get it just right. There are two reasons to run a Wilwood type full race setup: 1) You are road racing, and have a high HP Z 2) You want big brakes for looks IMO I will never put a Wilwood setup on another street Z. Not a good street pad selection, more maintenance, no dust seals, more rebuilds required. And if the SYSTEM is not balanced with the proper pads, and correct MC, the braking performance will be worse than the stock setup (on the street). If you want to improve the braking power of your 240Z, put a 280Z booster in it. If you are doing the occasional track day, do the vented 300ZX rotor Toyota V6 caliper upgrade (along with the 280Z booster) like in this Ebay listing. Been there, done this.... Pete

Lash pads have nothing to do with whether the lifters are solid or hydraulic. You have to have something to interface the rocker arm to the valve stem. That is what the lash pad does. There is really no adjustment in the stock sprocket. You can buy and adjustable one if you want. The three holes are really there to compensate for chain stretching.

I was thinking of doing lights like this on my 71 project. Mounted right in the grille like the new Mustangs.

Did you fix the PIP signal problem? This may cause you headaches down the road. Pete

Are you talking the tach in Megatune, or your dashboard? Pete

The problem with cams that require non stock lash pads with a P90A (hydraulic), is that to measure the wipe pattern, you really need oil pressure. If the lifters aren't "pumped up", the wipe pattern cannot be accurately checked. If you plan on running a non-stock cam, think about converting you P90A to solid lifters. Pete

No, the Ford wheel is steel of some sort. It must be a ferrous metal for the VR sensor to work. You can't weld it to the stock cast damper. Not sure why, but I'm not a welder. Yes, you should re-balance the entire assembly. I made up a wheel recently and mounted the wheel to the two threaded holes on a Powerforce damper. Use Locktite of some sort so it can't loosen up. Then have it balanced at your local machine shop. My machinist charged me $25 to hone the hole in the damper to fit the crankshaft (see other threads), and then balance the whole thing. He had to drill out a little metal with a 1/2" drill to get it balanced, so it wasn't too far out.

Try replacing the oil pressure gauge sender, they often read low when they get old.

I don't think you can use LEngine to compute the CR when shaving a head. How are you estimating the head CCs? You really need to shave, then measure the combustion chamber volume. Then you can plug that number into the "head CCs" box in LEngine. Maybe someone has already done this at 0.020, 0.040, 0.060, 0.080? I have a junk P79 that I could donate to the cause.

If you are shooting for high HP/TQ with NOS or turbo, the extra displacement is not worth the loss of structural rigidity. For you application I would not bore more than 87mm.

5/16" fuel injection hose from any auto parts store will work fine. Used it many times.

The PIP should be a nice square 12V waveform. Sounds like you have a capacitor on the PIP input to ground. You probably have C30 and C12 installed (Dave and Ed caps). You don't need them for EDIS. Which output are you using for SAW? The SAW output duty cycle does not vary all that much. The range is from 64 - 1792us (57.5° BTDC to 10° ATDC). So you get about 60 deg of advance controlled over a 1700us range. So about 28us per degree. First fix your waveform problem, then zoom in the time base on your scope to get more measurement precision. Also, probe the SAW signal at the EDIS module, as that is what really matters (who cares what it looks like at the MS if it looks like crap at the EDIS module). Pete

As 1 fast z said, they are only available up to 1mm over bore. To be honest, I would look for another block. One that has been sleeved, and has that much bore damage is not worth putting any money into. Blocks are cheap. Get one in good original condition that has not been bored and bore it to 87mm.

How happy are you with the Extrudabody TBs? How is the hardware and linkage?

I have a set. PM me if you are interested. Pete

I agree with what you are saying. Microsoft has more existing customers than new ones, so why waste your customers time, by moving things around? I'm not a UI developer, but more of a hardware / low level Linux driver type. It is all what you are used to. I just hate wasting time learning a new UI when the old one works fine. The new Office 2007 UI is not better than the 2003 one, it is just different. These are all tools, and we all have jobs to do. Just let us do it as efficiently as possible.

He is for real. I have hung out with Tony at a couple of conventions, and had dinner with him once. He also makes a good human gas tank strap

I guess my point is that it doesn't really matter which EFI or SU manifold you use (especially EFI). You will need to do a lot of porting and smoothing to open up the SU part of the manifold for the 50mm TB, and where the two manifolds are welded together. Then add port matching at the head. Pete

I think opening size depends on what air dam/lower valance you plan on running. Pete

You don't need to tap anything. Here are some hints: Or just buy one of those turbo oil line kits. Pete

A little to much grille for my taste. I have an urge to slap a big steak on that thing. Seriously though, nice clean fabrication work! Pete

Why not just use the stock line? From memory your need the following. I would double check before ordering anything. 12mm inverted flare to -4AN (at the pressure sender) 12mm banjo to -4AN (at turbo) 4 or so feet of -4 hose 2 -4AN swivel hose ends.