z-ya

So I was off a little....

I use the P82 manifold on my race car. It has a 10:1 N42/N47 engine. The manifold was port matched to the head, and it has a 600mm TB on it (also port matched). I make 180WHP. I have not done any comparisons, but it performs well for me.

Start a new thread in the "Ignition and Electrical" sub forum.

If you are going for force induction, definitely swap the P90 on there. Flat tops with an N47 i too high a CR (10:1) for a turbo. The P90 will get you in the 8.5:1 range. You can use the N7 cam. Swap everything though (cam, rockers, lash pads). Keep them organized so they go back on the same cam lobe they were broken in on. Pete

Nice job, good story. How is she running?

Thanks for the clarification Tony. I'm not seeing an overheating problem, but I do have that temperature spike problem after a session when I shut it down. I will try plugging the port in the rear of the head, just to see what happens. Pete

Thanks for the detailed write up! The RB26DETT has a coil igniter that mounts on the engine, does RB26DET also have this igniter? I will be working on a RB26DETT installation over the next few months and we plan on using the OEM igniter. The secondary grounds might be for shielding or EMI reduction. It may provide a shield around the coil to minimize electro magnetic interference (EMI). Which outputs are you using in the MS? Are you using "Extra" or MSII code? Pete

Timing sprocket, oil pump gear, oil slinger, damper, and woodruff keys from any L28 will work with the V07 crank.The V07 (LD28) crank is identical to the L28 crank except for the stroke.

Correct me if I am wrong, but EDIS modules have the coil driver built in, so it provides the ground to the coil to fire it. There are two kinds of COPs, one with, and one without the coil driver built in. Any COP without the coil driver built in will work with EDIS. It may not be optimized, and the reliability may not be as good as using a matched coil, but it will work. It is easy to tell if the igniter is built in or not, if there are two wires, no igniter. If there are three or more, then it has the driver built in. Then you need to figure out what wire is what. Pete

I understand that this would be non-detrimental to to engine, that is as long as it runs at a safe temperature. Earlier in this post you mention that the block of flow from the rear of the head when the heater core mixing valve is closed caused all of the overheating problems in early 240Zs. So do you recommend blocking it, or routing it back to the t-stat housing? Sorry for the high jack....

Good one ... Counting teeth works if you don't believe the numbers on the ring gear.

I have my N47/N42 mild road race engine setup like this: - Bottom of radiator to water pump inlet - water pump inlet to rear of head - thermostat housing to top of radiator It never exceeds the thermostat temperature (192F) during track sessions. The only time is get hot is after a session. If I shut it off, and then check the temp in a few minutes, it will spike to 220F, and then cools down. If I start it and let it idle, it cools back down to 192F. It has single electric fan. I might try and change the rear of head connection to the t-stat housing.

He doesn't have a heater core in there, so there is nothing to block the flow. I always connect the heater core in parallel with the line that goes from the inlet to the rear of the head. So you would eliminate the pump inlet to rear of head connection, and just run a connection from the rear of the head to the bottom of the thermostat housing? Pete

You also need to know what the coil charge time with two connected in parallel. The EDIS module has a fixed charge time that is calibrated to the EDIS coils. I know people using other coils with EDIS (including myself), but none with two coils in parallel on a singe EDIS driver output. "six pack" coils are actually three coils configured for wasted spark. It may work just fine, or you may have problems with the coils overheating and or the EDIS module overloading.

Yes, they are identical.

Tony, I have not had any problems until now, but I will take your suggestion and move the return to the top of the tank. I looked under the car tonight, and the feed fitting is on the driver side. So maybe it is G force related. Pete

The part of the sump that extends into the tank acts like an additional baffle. There are also vertical baffles on driver and passenger side. The pump is under the tank, about 6" from the sump. I don't have a ignition cut from an oil pressure switch. I have an iol pressure switch in my toolbox though . I watched oil pressure on the high G turns, and it stays constant. I am adding an Acusump soon. It is a 200HP L28, so 3/8" is cool. Thanks for the input. Pete

Here is a good one I have yet to figure out. Been running the road race car for a number of years now, and have never had a fuel starvation problem (at least that is what I think is happening). Trail braking into hard left turns the engine looses all power. This never happens on right hand turns. I have not logged O2 (didn't bring laptop to track yesterday), so I am not totally sure that it is going full lean, but that is my suspicion. Now after getting the suspension dialed in, I am turning faster lap times, and definitely pulling more Gs in the turns. So it is possible that I have uncovered a problem with my fuel cell. But, it was completely full for my first session, so I don't see how the fuel pump inlet could be sucking air. In the road race car I have a custom fabricated fuel cell. It fits in the spare tire well, and has a sump that protrudes about 4" through a hole in the bottom of the well: As you can see there are two barbs that face the front of the car. One is the send, the other the return. The sump goes up about 6 inches into the tank: There is a single pump, no surge tank. there is a fuel filter on the inlet to the pump (25 micron), and a stock 280Z filter in the normal location. All fuel lines are -6AN braided. Fuel rail and FPR are stock 280ZX. Maybe some crud in one of the filters is coming loose and blocking flow? Maybe because the return is entering the sump close to where the pump feed is? Note that I have looked into the tank when the pump was running and see that there was no cavitation happening. Maybe the fuel rail and FPR is getting hot where bubbles are getting into the return line, cause cavitation on the pump feed? I can take the top off the cell, and install a return in the top of the tank as a test. I may do that before the next event. Thanks, Pete

Yes it will work fine. Remember that the lift pump to the surge tank is not under pressure, and most all pumps flow more at 0psi than at their rated pressure. I have used cheap EFI pumps as lift pumps and they flow a lot more at 0psi than at 43psig. You need a low pressure inline FPR with that pump. It should be hooked up like: pump -> FPR -> Fuel rail -> return. Without an FPR, the pressure may go too high. You can hook up a gauge to test it before you go out and buy a regulator. Running pump for a long period dry is bad, but for a few seconds, it is not a problem. If you are concerned, the first time you prime the system run the lift pump first. Once the surge tank is full, then hook up the power to the EFI pump. After that the surge tank will always have fuel in it, no delay is required. 1-3 quarts is more than enough. Remember the return from the fuel rail should go to the surge tank, not the main tank.

You can still get bearings from Nissan. Call Courtesy Nissan in Texas. If you are building an ITS engine, I would not use used pistons. I would look for either NOS Nissan ones, or get ITM pistons with rings. They have replacements with the correct dish size. I've been running a set in my race car for over 1000 track miles and they are holding up just fine. Check with Courtesy, they probably have new Nissan L28 dished pistons in stock. The ones that are hard to come by are the flat top OEM ones. For gaskets the ITM set is OK, and reasonably priced. But the oil pan and valve cover gaskets are not good (cork). The intake/exhaust gasket is also not as good as OEM. Ishino make a nice gasket set, and I believe they are the OEM for Nissan. Almost 2x the cost of the ITM set, but worth the $$. Pete

Nice photo (nice car too)!

So let me just confirm, you have a 5/8" hose running from the rear of the head on the passenger side to the water pump inlet, also on the passenger side. The only hose connected to the thermostat housing should be the big one going to the top of the radiator. So three coolant lines: - Bottom of radiator to water pump inlet - water pump inlet to rear of head - thermostat housing to top of radiator

How do you have the coolant lines routed two and from the head and heater core (do you have a heater core hook up)?

I think it's the gas too. What are you using for ignition? I'd back your timing off more under boost. I run 23-24deg at 12psi on 93 octane east coast gas. I'd try 20 deg @ 15psi to start. If you have access to a dyno, and the shop has a set of audio headphones that let you listen to the knock sensor, do some runs and listen carefully. Another option is to get a knock sensor in there to back off the timing automatically.

Delta Camshaft will resurface your L6 rocker arms for less than $100. I think the last set I did cost $3.95 each. They com back looking like new. I've never tried to reuse a set that had that much of a groove in them.