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Hey Kevin, No offense against your stuff, but I've got all this crap hanging around my shop, and I decided to try and do something with it. If your TBs will bolt up to SU manifolds, and can add two more injectors, I may look you up if I need more fuel than 6 @ 450cc/min. What I've seen of the SU replacement TBs is that they only give you one inector per TB. This is great for a 6 TB setup, but not so great with two. For 400+ HP applications, those are some mighty big injectors. Plus you still have the fuel distribution issues with the SU manifolds. Get a hold of some SU manifolds, a fuel rail, and you'll see what I mean. You can do it with some HKS styler injector holders, but they will be firing straight down. I wanted them firing into the stock injector ports. Because the SU manifolds use the other bolt holes on the head, it becomes extremely difficult. If you have a saw, end mill, and you are good at TIG welding aluminum, it is a much easier approach.

What ECU are you guys using?

Do you mean that they are fired with the exact same dwell time? If so, yes they should work fine. If the dwell is different, and you are using the stock computer, the dwell might be too high for the Ford coils. You really need to put a scope on it to be sure. To hig a dwell will cause the coils to overheat and become intermittent.

I had two sets of SU manifolds, and at least 5 EGR EFI manifolds, so sourcing the manifolds was easy. I wanted to use a Palnet rail I have, so I wanted the stock spacing. Getting six new injector bungs to line up for an o-ring rail would be near impossible. So I think it was easier to splice, and smooth, than retrofitting injector bungs onto the E88 manifolds directly. The ZXT TBs are fine for my application, and free. As per my previous post, the linkage is going to work out great also.

What year model VW are these from? Are going to run them in the front and rear? How much strut tube did you remove? Thanks

Try either the R4-S or HP+ in the rear for track days. On the street both pads are quire noisy and squeal quite a bit. I run the HP+ in the front and rear for track days (Wilwood forged superlights front, 240SX rear) with the prop valve all the way open in the rear, and the bias is quite good. For street I have some Wilwood T pads I run in the front (super lame), and KVR in the rear. This works well for the street, and they are nice and quiet. The Stillen Metal Matrix pads are the best pads I've used on the street. They are available for 240SX, and most likely for the the Toyo calipers. They are quiet, bite really well, and can handle occasional track days. I run them on my 350Z. Maybe you should try a set in the rear before your next track day. http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?id=MTLPADS01&c=BR

You should really use the SDS to control the fuel pump relay. For safety reasons if anything. Also, why are you not using the SDS to control spark also? Ignition timing is extremely important on forced induction engines.

For linkage, I'm going to use stock 280Z linkage hardware. I think it's going to work out great, and each TB will be individually adjustable. Most likely these manifolds will go on my stroker project with stock RB26DETT turbos.

I'm using a Palnet rail, and 450cc/min DSM injectors (o-ring). I've had these manifolds and TBs kicking around for a while, and decided to do something with them. I think it's going to look pretty cool when done. The performance should be good too.

Hear is the twin SU L6 FI manifold work I've been doing with a friend. Still got plenty of smoothing to do. Will be using 280ZXt throttle bodies as they don't have a lot of junk on them, and they are slightly larger than the SU flange (50mm). The bolt pattern of the ZX TB is slightly different, so the original SU mounting holes were welded up. New holes for the ZX TB will be drilled and tapped. I'll post more photos after it is all smoothed out and the linkage is done.

Twin SU L6 FI manifold work. Still got plenty of smoothing to do. Will be using 280ZXt throttle bodies as they don't have a lot of junk on them, and they are slightly larger than the SU flange (50mm). The bolt pattern of the ZX TB is slightly different, so the original SU mounting holes were welded up. New holes for the ZX TB will be drilled and tapped.

If the WB will only be used for tuning, put it in a place you can get at easily. For the one wire narrow band sensor, put it close to the exhaust manifold or in the header collector. Most weld in bungs come with a plug, so you can plug the bung for the WB sensor.

For a single wire narrow band sensor, yes. This is because the sensor is heated by the exhaust gases. In the case of a wideband, it is heated electrically. I sill have my one wire narrow band in the header.

You can run the MS in open loop all the time. In fact, for tuning, this is how you should run it. The last thing you want is the MS making adjustments in closed loop mode when you are tuning. Closed loop is usually only active under 3000RPM for cruising economy and emissions. NA and turbo injectors are low impedance (2.6 Ohms or so).

The dyno shop will want to put their sensor in your bung Seriously though, they will need to get at it, so make sure it is accessible. I had mine low down on the header, and it was a real pain to take my narrow band out, and put the dyno's wide band in. To make it easier, I added a bung to the end plate on the Supertrapp muffler. The dyno owner I work with (sponsors my race car with free dyno time) loves me now 8^). If you have never seen a car on a dyno, it's pretty cool. It basically allows you to put a full load on the engine while you are standing next it. My supercharged car does 120MPH in 4th gear on the dyno. So you can imagine the sound a car makes going 120MPH while you are standing next to it. You can immediately see where you are running rich or lean.

Nice work guys! Thanks for documenting your work.

I've been running Ross's kit for over three years now without any issues. The only thing I had to so was swap the parking brake cable from left side to right side, and vice versa. The cables now criss cross under the car. The parking brake works great. I don't think I had to even adjust the cable. I think you are correct on the brake bias with the V6 Toyo calipers in the front. You experience might vary depending on what pads you run in the rear. I know for fact that they are not a good match with the Willwood forged superlights in front. There is just too much piston area in the front. You can compensate with aggressive pads in the rear, and less than so in the front.

Spend the $200 on dyno time where they have a wide band. Once tuned, and running right, the narrow band is good enough to tell you if you if something is going wrong later on down the road.

The key to this build is the turbo, and camshaft selection. Suggestions welcome. The Mustang and Dynapack dynos are awesome tuning tools. I like the fixed RPM feature for dialing in a new map. Set the RPM to let say 3000, and the dyno will hold it there, no matter what you do to the throttle. With systems like MS and WolfEMS, you can tune in real time, so press on the throttle until you are steady on a load point for the RPM the dyno is holding, then make adjustments while watching the wide band display on the dyno computer. OK, that map point it done, on to the next one. Do that on the street! You can dial in a completely new map in less than an hour if everything is functioning OK. After that do some pulls, make a few adjustments hear and there, and your done.

It is overkill, but it will work. Are you having a problem that you think the filter will cure?

The quality of the instrument will effect the measurement accuracy. Check the accuracy of your inexpensive meter. It should be listed in the specifications. My Fluke meter has an accuracy of 0.05%. From my experience, low cost meters do not make accurate low resistance measurements. I have a Radio Shack meter also, and it measures 8-10 Ohms for low Z injectors.

I've measured the resistance of at least 50 Z and ZX injectors, and they all are within 10% of 2.6 Ohms. You need a good quality Ohm meter to measure low resistances accurately. A $19.95 Radio Shack special won't do. I use a Fluke 87 true RMS multimeter. About $350 if you were to buy one.

It could be anything at this point. I'm sure you can find out what a timing light is somewhere on the web. Is your MS configured for EDIS (both HW and SW)?

Have you checked the timing with a light? I think limp mode is like 5 degrees. Are you seeing the crank advance that you have set in MT with a timing light?

Thanks Tony, 350WHP should be doable at 7psi then. A question for JeffP (and I think I asked him this last time I was at the MSA show): why is he farting around with OEM ECUs, is he into pain or something? With all that he has into that motor, why not get a good aftermarket ECU like Electromotive, or WolfEMS? Why not a Megasquirt? Then get it on a Mustang or Dynapack dynometer and be done with it. Screwing around old OEM electronics is not how I like to spend my time. He should get himself a modern system in there to get the most out of his motor.