z-ya

Just to be sure, this is how the fuel circuit should be connected: tank outlet -> filter -> pump -> filter -> fuel rail -> regulator -> return back to tank Without the engine running, disconnected the fuel line where it enters the fuel rail, and stick it in a fuel jug. Wire up the pump so that it run continuously. Check to see that you have a lot of flow (zero pressure in rail). Then do the same test on the return line. You should get a lot of flow out the return with the engine not running (fuel rail pressurized).

I've had good luck with the Aeromotive regulators: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=AEI%2D13109&N=700+308633+115&autoview=sku

I would suggest routing a temporary fuel pressure gauge so you can see it while driving with the hood popped open. This way you can verify that the fuel pressure is adequate when it leans out.

From a post I made last year: OK, got it running today on EDIS. Only encountered one problem, the way they label the coil outputs on the module is not correct for the L6. I ASSumed, that coil output A would go to 1st and opposed, B would go to 2nd and opposed, and C would go to 3rd and opposed. NOT! Hear is the wiring diagram: They should be connected like this: Coil output A (pin 10) => 1st and opposed Coil output B (pin 12) => 3rd and opposed Coil output C (pin 11) => 2nd and opposed Everything else checked out OK on the EDIS MS FAQ

Sounds like a good start, but bus bar is most likely overkill. Hear is what I typically do: - Add another 4 GA ground wire from the engine block to chassis. I use the 4 GA car stereo wire that is made up of 30 GA strands (nice and flexible). - Add another 4 GA ground wire from the battery minus terminal to the chassis - Purchase a decent terminal block and run a new 10 GA red from the plus battery terminal to the terminal block. Run a black 10 GA wire from the battery minus terminal to the terminal block. - Using terminal block jumpers, connect as many terminals together to get you the right number grounds and +12V feeds that you need. Tie all of you MS power connections to this terminal block. - I like these Painless 4 circuit fuse blocks because they are cheap, and they use standard ATO fuses. They are not weatherized, so they need to be in the passenger compartment. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PRF%2D30002&N=700+4294843320+4294782591+115&autoview=sku - The 4 fuse block will give you fused circuits for the MS, fuel pump, cooling fan, and injectors. Put the fan and fuel pump relays on the fused side of the circuit. Use 12 GA for fuel pump and fan. 18 GA is fine for the MS and 14 GA for injector power. What I like to do in the MS harness is run multiple 18 GA ground wires. Usually 4 or 5 of them. One 18GA is fine for MS power in the harness. Remember that the majority of the current that flows through the MS is in the ground circuit, so don't skimp on MS grounds. Very little current flows through the +12v power to MS.

Stay tuned.....

Yes, a low battery can cause all sorts of problems. Mostly when you are cranking, as the voltage can drop dramatically if the battery is questionable. Even though the lm2937et-5.0 5V voltage regulator in the MS has a low dropout voltage of 0.5V, other devices in the MS can be effect by a low cranking voltage. As a last resort, I would try a different CAS sensor if you have one. It may be starting to fail, which would explain why it works with no load on it.

Do you have a 1k Ohm pullup resistor to +12v on the distributor output (pin 24 of MS)?

If you are not seeing any RPM in Megatune, then it is an input, not output problem. Something in the input trigger has gone wrong. Check all your input trigger connections.

You took a map from another car, downloaded it and headed for the highway? You have a better chance of winning the lottery than having it run well across all driving conditions. Also, to take it out on the highway and punch it without any tuning, is very risky. You can easily detonate, blow the head gasket or worse. It sounds like me that it is leaning out, which is not good. The acceleration enrichment settings could be causing this, or the fuel map for that matter. Settle on a map, and then spend some time tuning. Getting it on a dyno will get it running right much quicker.

Looks great Austin!

No. You can check it with an Ohm meter (DVM). There is switch in the TPS on 280Zs, where the center pin is common. You should be able to turn the TPS an connection make and break between the center pin and either of the outer pins.

I used the fuel tank expansion tank. Then I made a metal shield to separate it form the passenger compartment. You need to add more fittings (I TIG welded additional 3/8" NPT bungs). It works great, and is very stealth.

Any of you swapped over from the RB26 individual TBs to an aftermarket intake with a single TB? If so, are you interested in the selling the individual TBs, throttle linkage, and intake manifold? PM me if you are. I know this should probably be in the wanted section, but I wanted to target the RB crowd only. Thanks!

Run open loop until yopu have your map completely tuned. Last thing you want is the ECU making adjustments while you are trying to.

It's not so much logic, but when you first get it running you don't want to think about what map point I need to change, and whether the RPM or load bands are correct for idle. Just adjust the required fuel. Yes, it is like a global fuel scale control. Setting it with the calculator will get you real close. Tweak it when you first get it running, then concentrate on your map. Also, set you timing map conservatively at first, and be sure to calibrate you timing map with the actual timing your measure with a light.

It looks good for starters. I would set your lowest load band to be around 60, since that is where it should idle. I would also make the lowest RPM band around 800 RPM. When you first get it started, use the "Required Fuel" setting to get the idle mixture close. Once the "Require Fuel" variable is set correctly, then you start fine tuning the map.

It will work just fine, as I ran mine that way for years before I added a surge tank.

Run the return back into the original feed fitting on the 240Z tank. The return will work fine with a 5/16" barb at the tank (ran this way for years).

Dave, 250kPa = 36.26 psi, so if you are shooting for 18psi, I would set the upper most load band to be approximately 20psi to give you a little headroom. So adding 140kPa to 100kPa (atmosphereic pressure), will give you 240kPa. Then I would start by making the lowest load band to be your idle pressure. My L28 turbo idles around 20in-hg which is around 67kPa. So set your lower load band to 60kPa or so. Atmosphereic pressure is 100kPa, so make that somewhere in the midle of the load range. Then I would evenly space the load bands from 100 to 240, and then from 60 to 100. I put the load band up at 100kPa, and then went up and down from there. When you get it started, and idling, set the lowest load band to match your idle pressure. Also, make the lowest RPM band your idle rpm. Then you can dial in a nice smooth idle.

I've use the Nology three channel coil drivers in the past, and they work great with a wide variety of coils. I've used them to drive stock, and MSD coils with spark energy to spare. A mild L6 with 19lb injectors will idle well, even with a V3.0 unit (and MS for that matter). 19lbs may not be enough for that motor, but o-ring injectors are so easy to find and swap. I built essentially the same motor, and it made 165WHP at 95% duty cycle with the stock 280Z injectors. You may squeak a bit more power out of those injectors in sequential mode vs. batch. That's impressive that an M3 can still have a decent idle with 750cc/min injectors.

The LS1 coils already have igniters built in (the VB921 is an igniter), so all the MS needs to provide is a +5V logic pulse, with it's width being the coil charge time (dwell). So you need to use three ignition outputs from the MS, each driving two LS1 coils. I plan on measuring the input current requirements for the LS1 coil input trigger. Once I know that, I can recommend a TTL (+5V logic) buffer to provide enough current to drive two LS1 coils in parallel. My next project will most likely use a 36-1 crank wheel, and LS1 coils with MS.

I think the hole is there so that the coolant doesn't spray out of the seal in other locations. If the seal leaks, it always comes out that hole. Maybe for safety? When mine failed it leaked so bad that it would leak until the radiator level was the same as the hole in the pump. It will run like that for a while, but if want decent cooling system pressure, and full coolant capacity, better put in a new one soon.

Ron, You're modified ZX disty now provides cam position information to the ECU? Can you describe the output waveform? Is there one wider pulse that indicates TDC on piston 1 during the compression stroke? How many pulses follow before the next TDC pulse? You are correct in saying that you must run batch injection with a 36-1 wheel on the crank, but with spark, all cylinders get equal spark energy with a COP setup like you have used. Yes, one is always wasted, but all cylinders get equal energy because of individual coils. You can fire two igniters with one ignition output of the wolf. You can also do the same with MS. What size injectors are you using, and how is the idle quality? I know the V3.0 units had too course resolution at idle for large injectors (I've added additional batch injectors to compensate). The V4.0 units improved this greatly. I have not seen a V500 unit, and was wondering how it faired.

When you mount it in the thermostat housing, it is right below the thermostat. So the reading in MS should not only match your dash gauge, but it should also correlate to the thermostat opening temperature.