z-ya

Ron, The Wolf will drive any +5V logic input. I've used the RX-7 igniters in the past with great sucess. So coils from any 2000 or later GM Vortec V8 have the igniters built in.

Looks freakin' awesome Ron (as usual ). You guys do great work. What vehicle can I get those coils from, and do they have the igniters built in? What mods were done to the engine (CR, pistons, cam, etc.)? Been on the dyno yet?

Unless you use some sort of heat sink compound to assure good thermal contact with the head, immersing it in the coolant is the best bet. That is where Nissan put it (for good reason). I have mounted the CLT sensor in the thermostat housing for all installs I have done, and have not had any problems. You can buy a 3/8" NPT bung and weld it into your IC pipe rather than trying to tap it. You can also put your IAT sensor in the intake (don't want to open that can of worms again!)

Thanks for the clarification, I didn't realize that MS-II had this feature built in. Cool. I've only helped tune one MS-II install. For MS-I users, you still need the standalone Easytherm application. Yes, get the stimulator, it is a great debugging tool. Is there a hole in the rear of the P90 head that enters the water jacket (besides the same one that is in all L6 heads)? The P90 has a head temp sensor, but that is not coolant temperature as it does not contact the water jacket. The sensor must be immersed in coolant. The thermostat housing is the correct location. If you drill it with the correct size drill bit for a 3/8" NPT tap, you will not crack the housing. You need the drill and tap for the IAT sensor anyway, might as well use it for you new GM CLT sensor.

A centrifugal S/C is like a turbo, but it is driven by a crank pulley rather than exhaust pressure. A centrifugal S/C compressor is very similar in design to a turbochargers compressor. The main difference is that a turbo will produce much more torque at low RPMs because it freewheels, and is not directly coupled to the crankshaft. So peak boost can be made at much lower RPMs than a centrifugal S/C.

You can use the Datsun CLT sensor of you use the easytherm program to generate a new lookup table. Personally, I replace all the sensors with new ones when doing a conversion. Cheap insurance against gremlins. You need a GM IAT sensor, might as well use a GM CLT sensor. You just need to re-tap your thermostat housing for 3/8" NPT thread.

If you have some unused spare pins in the 37 pin connector, you can drive the tach with the MS tacho output. http://www.msextra.com/manuals/MS_Extra_Hardware_Manual.htm#tachoout I've run th stock 280Z tach off the coil - terminal. I used a 470 Ohm resistor in series with wire going from the coil to the tach. I switched to EDIS, so no I use the tacho output pin on the MS. You need to add a little circuit to the MS to do it (see link above).

Try the wheels sticky. There are a bunch of vendors making wheels that will fit an old Z today: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=100039

I still get excited the first time I start an new EFI conversion. It is a lot of work, but very rewarding. Great job!

I would use the 280ZX as the daily driver, and make the 240Z a weekend racer.

I put one on my Wife's 280Z, and it sounds nice. It is on the quiet side. They are aluminized, so the quality is decent.

Yes, it uses side mounts. The side mounts bolt to the seats with two bolts on each side. I'm still in the process of figuring out sliders.

The Imola GT I have is the wider version, and yes I need it. We are about the same size (6'2", 240lbs, 38" waist). This seat fits me great width wise. I wish the back was a little higher (my shoulders are at the top of the harness slots). I'm part owner with two other guys that are 5'6" 150, and 5'6" 220, so it fits all of us, but not perfectly. It is very light weight. It probably fits the 5'6" 220 co-owner the best.

Tony, I'm an EE! Dave, The most important reason to tune on a dyno is that it provides a fixed and controlled load. There is probably no way you can put the engine under 100% load on public roads (I've tried). With the new generation of dynos like the Dynapack we had at Syracuse, you can use the dyno to fix the engine RPM (or load). Then as you step on the throttle, it maintains that RPM. So for each RPM band, you can zero in on each load point by modulating the throttle. I've started with default maps, and had great running engines in a couple hours on one of these dyno. I fabricated the MS harness for Chris Holmes car. He was able to get the tuning pretty close by using the logging feature with a narrow band sensor, but there still are a few spots where it stumbles. We should be able to zero in on those spots on the dyno and make the appropriate adjustment.

Seems like your turbo is the weak link if you are only making 265HP at 15psi. You should be closer to 300. I don't think that the AFM is the source of restriction, but I might be. Might be your turbine. I know because I have the turbo on my turbo Z and it makes 250HP and 310ft-lbs at 12psi. I'm running standalone speed density system on that car. The last L28ET I tuned made 325HP and 310ft-lbs at 13psi, but it had a T04E/T3 with stage 3 turbine. Also, why not just use the MAP sensor built into the MS-II? Why did you choose MS-II vs. MS-I and extra code? Do you have a dyno shop near by? BTW, we met at the Syracuse convention. I was helping out with the dyno tuning.

If you keep you timing and mixture right, I wouldn't worry so much about knocking (you have a stock L28ET with 7.4:1 CR, right?). I'd worry more about what the stock head gasket might do at 18psi (unless you have a metal one). What turbo are you running? Sometime over the next few months I will be tuning Chris Holmes NA 280Z with MS. Let me know if you want to bring your car out at the same time for some dyno tuning on a Dynapack dynometer.

I'd pull it to +5V from the regulator in the MS, not +12v. Also, you just need a multimeter to measure the resistance between the source and drain.

I know people that have run upwards of 18psi with the stock regulator. You should be OK under 15psi. Are you going MS-II, or MS-I with extra code?

The pre-pump filter is just to protect the pump. If you have a tank with some crud left in it, it is very important as you can damage your pump without a pre-pump filter. I use one of those 3/8" clear plastic ones. I think they are 10 micron, which is fine on the inlet of the pump. I like them because they are cheap, and they are clear, so you can see how much crud has accumulated in them. If you are on a trip, and need a replacement, you can get a new one at any parts store. Don't use a clear glass one under the car for obvious reasons.

Yes, test the FET by first disconnecting the gate from the circuit. If you pullup the gate to +5V using a 10K or so Ohm resistor, the coil in the valve should energize. If you tie the gate to ground, the valve should turn off. The gate acts like a switch, allowing current to flow from the drain to source. In other words, when the gate is high (+5V), there will be a low reistance between the source and drain pins. When the gate is low (ground), the reistance between the source and drain pins should be extremely high (not enough current flow to turn on valve).

I've found that the level of support and comfort is directly proportional to the cost. I went to the local BMW motorsport shop and sat in at lease 5 different seats, and the Imola GT was probably number 4 where 1 is the best. He sold me the floor model for $450, which is a good price. The most amzing seat I sat in (at $1500) was this one: http://www.recaro.com/index.php?id=2024&region=3&L=2

I've used drilled stock rotors and Perterfield R4 pads on the car in my signature below for time trial racing, and they performed very poorly. No bite, and overheating rotors (many shades of blue, and hairline cracks). OK, this is extreme use on a road course, but solid stock rotors work at least 150% better than drilled ones with the same pads. I've never tried slotted ones on the track, so I can't really comment on their performance. So even if you are not taking it to the track, why spend more on drilled rotors?

Did you load the latest Extra code? At some point I plan on using the boost control feature, and I will probably try to test it on the bench first. When I have some results, I'll let people know. It is kind of low on the priority list at this point, but I may get inspired over the next few weeks.

I don't see anywhere in that datasheet where it shows the physical pin assignments for the IRLZ44N TO220 package. Anyone else?

The kit is an MSA one, but it took a lot of work to get it to fit right. Yes, he still has it, and drives it too! Craig, I'm in southern NH, near Salem. We have a local club site, you can check it out hear: http://zccne.org/cgi-bin/forum/Blah.pl?