z-ya

NA L28 - F54 flat top block, STD bore - N47 head, port matching only - Stock cam - Megasquirt fuel only - 6:1 header - 60mm TB - Stock ZX ignition system - Turbo injectors - 155WHP/166WT Supercharged L28 - F54 flat top block, STD bore - P79 head, Comp cams 460 lift, 280 duration cam. Port matching only - 2mm NISMO head gasket - 6:1 header - Megasquirt with Ford EDIS ignition - Ford Thunderbird injectors (380cc/min) - Modified JCR supercharger kit for port injection - 7psi boost - 255WHP/225WT

If it is a stock setup, always use the OEM plug. Always use NGK in L6 motors. Use the NGK BPR6ES and gap them between 40 and 45 thousands.

Bud, I'm not a Hybrid hater, go for it!

I understand all the "HybridZ" reasons, but you are talking about an RX7, not a Z. The RX7 is similar to the Z in many ways, so if you are hell bent on fixing up your RX7, save yourself some time and energy and put a rotary in it. The HP potential is huge with a rotary, and it is much lighter than an L6. If you want max power and don't care about weight, put a V8 in it. It will probably fit better, and there may be people making motor mounts for this conversion. Just my $0.02...

82' or 83'

No, for a 400-450 crank HP L28, the stock rods will do.

Put it in a Z.... Sorry to state the obvious, but really, why put a Z motor in a RX7?

With the right cam, it should make 220-240WHP. My stock 10:1 L28 (N47/F54) made 165WHP with the stock cam.

Bob Sharp car with dual megaphones:

I had a similar problem. It ended up being a number of things including error messages I was getting when I started Megatune. I reloaded the latest firmware and Megatune versions, and the advance started working. If you are getting any error or warning messages when you start Megatune, fix them before try to tune anything: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103781&page=5&highlight=v3+edis

I think your right Tony. I'll check this weekend. It just looks like more of a mistake, than a return hole. Yea, I plan on cleaning up the entire interior of the block.

Jon, I pull away from cobra replica spec racers on a regular basis coming out of turn 3 at NHIS in my turbo S30. It is an up hill, off camber, 180 or so degree turn. I do have to feather the throttle to prevent wheel spin, but I am still out accellerating just about anything coming out of this turn. I'm runnning a 3.7:1 LSD, and 245-45ZR16 RA-1s all around. The cobras weigh around 1900 lbs, have 5.0L V8s, LSDs, and mega rear tires. I wouldn't consider my S30 "wicked" fast (are you from Massachusetts?), but coming out of that turn, It's pretty darn fast.

Thanks Dave. Maybe I'll use this block after all.

Serious engineering is required to build an all aluminum engine. You can't just make a mold and pour molten aluminum in it (remember the Chevy Vega?), and expect it to be durable. R&D engineers spend years designing all aluminum engines. Plan on lots of trial and error.

I was planning on using this block for a 400+HP turbo build-up. I think I'll look for another block.

Its more than just some stray casting material, it is a hole. Hear is a higher resolution image: http://www.zccne.org/gallery/albums/clubcar2006/P1010007_001.jpg

I've rebuild a number of F54 and N42 blocks, but don't remember seeing this hole near the rear main cap. It is not all the way through. This engine was running great when I pulled it. It also has over 180K miles with the original bore and bearings.

This is a WAY COOL thread. My contribution, Bob Sharp twin turbo Nissan V8 powered 280ZX:

The stock turbo is good for more than 12psi, and you will get a lot more torque, but the HP will be limited at around 250WHP. The T3 turbine can only flow so much, and will generate more heat than HP over 12psi. My L28ET has a stock turbo, and makes 315ft-lbs, and 250HP at the wheels. This is at 12psi. To keep the duty cycle below 80%, I have two additional turbo injectors in the IC tube before the TB. The stock injectors at the stock fuel pressure are good for 250WHP (FWHP?), but that is at 100% duty cycle. To get 250WHP with the stock fuel pressure @ 80% duty cycle, you need 380cc/min injectors.

I like the yellow. Yellow allways looks great on a Z. Not too many people fixing up 2+2s, cool. A little Z history: Mr K. had a 260Z 2+2 that he commuted in every day to Nissan headquarters back in the early 70s. It was perl yellow, automatic, and had a power sunroof (metal). The power sunroof looked to me like it was done at the factory just for Mr. K. It is one of the cars that Nissan held onto when they moved to TN. It is just too rare, and has such a history to sell it. Hear are some photos of it (the ugly mug in the photo is me):

They are all low Z.

The real problem is that the EDIS module requires one pulse per crank angle (minus 1 for TDC). So it is a 36-1 wheel. The 83 ZX distributor puts out 6 pulses per distributor shaft revolution. Also, the EDIS module is expecting a VR sensor input signal, not a +12V square wave as the 83 distributor outputs. So this pretty much eliminates using the 83 distributor to drive the input of the EDIS module (at least without major modifications). You can use the distributor as an input trigger to the MS, and then setup the MS for direct fire. You will use up two spare outputs to drive the additional coil ignitors. You can use VB921 coil drivers, or coild backs that have the driver built in.

So in essence you are saying that input pressure vs output pressure on a prop valve is non linear. It is linear up to a point, but as the input pressure increases, the output pressure does not increase at a fixed ratio to the input pressure. Now I've had my car on the track many times with this setup, and so far the braking is very predictable. I've probably done at 14 or so 30 minute sessions withthe brakes the way they are. It is my street legal race car, so I only use it if my track only car is broken. I'm in the planning stages of completely re-doing this car, so I may go with a Wilwood caliper in the rear with more fluid volume than the 240SX caliper. This will give me a coser to stock front to rear bias, allowing me to run the prop valve in the rear.

Now that I have the prop valve in the front, I can get the proper front to rear bias. I understand if you just slap a fixed prop valve in the front, you may have too mauch bias towards the rear, which is not good in an emergency stop. I guess I don't understand why it is dangerous if you maintain the proper front to rear bias.

Are you going with bigger flares than you have on there now? Nice looking for sure. What was the price and lead time?