z-ya

On my turbo car I have the JSK front hats and caliper brackets. On the rear I have the 240SX kit from Modern Motorsports. I use the 15/16" MC on that car and the brake feel and performance is very good. I couldn't get the bias even close by just replacing the rear prop valve with and adjustable one. I ended up putting the adjustable prop valve in the front circuit, and a piece of solid line in place of the stock prop valve in the rear. I mounted the Wilwood prop valve between the MC and my MC heat shield. For pads, I have the Hawk HP Plus, and have absolutely zero fade at a very brake chalenging track (NHIS). The pads are a little too aggressive for the street. I switch them to some Wilwood street pads for long trips. I have the KVR pads in the rear. With this setup, you can use any DOT4 or better fluid. I've been using the Motul stuff in there for a few years now without any issues.

I'm fairly sure they are the same diameter also. But the vented rotors require the bigger calipers. If you are doing track days, the vented rotors are worth it. If it is a street Z, the solid rotors are fine. I'm not a big fan of slotted or drilled rotors. High quality OEM style replacement rotors are the way to go. Brembo makes a nice OEM replacement for a decent price.

I'm not sure you can just turn the distibutor to get more advance. Eventually you will jump to the next post in the distibutor cap, right? From what I have read, using the disty as an input trigger, and a means to distrubte the spark to the appropriate cylinder, limits your timing adjustment range. Your maximum adjustment is determined by the angle of each plug wire post, right? Go with a crank trigger, and direct fire, it is not all that much more work, and you can eliminate the distibutor. Another option is EDIS, which so far is working like a charm on my supercharged L6.

I've have access to original Bob Sharp flares, air dam, and rear spoiler from the 280Z Paul Newman competed in (actually it is a 240Z with a 280Z tail lights and an L28 under the hood). I know the owner of the Bob Sharp collection, and he will let me borrow some "spares" to make molds of. So anyone out there good at making molds? Any expert mold makers want to make the molds in exchange for a set of flares for me? If I find the right person to do it, great. If not, I will attempt to make molds myself (never done it before). Hear are some photos of the Bob Sharp 280Z that was driven by Paul Newman back in the days: I can look at this car for hours (and have done so). And if you think it looks good, you should hear how it sounds (dual megaphone exhaust).

OK Jon, you got me. I do use a clear peice of tubing on the bleeder but if you don't care about your garage floor, you don't really need one. I've watched the clear tube when I gradually let up on the brake pedal, and the fluid does not move at all. Again, the path of least resistance (gravity assisted) is to draw fluid from the MC. Use the $ you would spend on speed bleeders for some high quality pads.

You don't need speed bleeders on an S30 to bleed the brakes by yourself: - Open the bleeder on the corner you want to bleed. - Open up the MC so you can see the fluid - Stand with one foot out of the car and the other on the brake pedal (you can then look through the windsheild and see the fluid in the MC) - Use a smooth and consistant action on the pedal. Slow and gradual. - When you let up on the pedal, again, do it smooth and slow. You will see the fluid level lowering in the MC Gravity will prevent any air from getting into the system. Not sure if this works on all brake systems, but I know it works on a 240Z. I typically bleed the brakes this way 3-4 times each time trial event, and have never had a problem with air getting into the system. Speed bleeders can't hurt the bleeding process, but can put a small dent in you wallet.

I didn't see any mention of 4 lug on the Team III wheels: http://www.team3wheels.com/ac/LT-price.html Compomotive makes a 4 lug version of that wheel: http://usacomp.com/hb4lug.htm They also make some other styles that are gorgeous. Quite expensive, but the quality is excellent. I also found these AR wheels. Although they are only 15", they can be ordered in many different widths and offsets, and are available in 4 lug. http://www.americanracing.com/wheels/details.asp?wheelid=196&name=Silverstone%20Custom%20Offset&style=401&desc=2-piece%20painted%20center,%20polished%20rim&section=V AR also makes this one, which is available in 17x7" in 4 lug: http://www.americanracing.com/wheels/details.asp?wheelid=170&name=Ansen%AE%20Sprint&style=A69&desc=1-piece%20machined%20alloy,%20polished&section=V

If you are using the 4x4 calipers with the stock rear drums, the 7/8" MC is what you want. I run this exact setup, with the stock proportioning valve on my time trial car, and the brakes are ecellent. The 15/16" MC will require too much pedal effort. On my Wife's 78' 280Z, I also have the same setup, and the brakes are also excellent. A few things to try: - Put your 7/8" MC back in there - Make sure the rear drum brakes are adjusted properly. This can have a huge effect on pedal feel. On my time trial car I adjust the drums after each session to keep the pedal firm. Hope this helps

Hear is an 8x8 table from a stock L28 (accept for 10:1 compression). It should get you close. I would enter this table and interpolate the other points in a logical manner. Then I would adjust your "Required Fuel" to get a smooth idle. Change the maps after the motor is warmed up. Your targert AFR sould be in the 13.5 to 14.7 range across all load and RPM points. You can get close with the logging feature and a narrow band O2, but you really should get it on a dyno with a wideband O2 to get the most power out of it.

Dude, I can relate to the paint prison thing. The guy that does my boy work is amazing, but really slow. You got to keep after him. The squeaky wheel get the oil if you know what I mean.

Is it an L28, or L24? One piston looks like it has "STD" stamped in it, so the bore is standard. OEM flat top L28 pistons have "P79" stamped in them, so they are not Nissan. If it is an L24, then those are stock L24 pistons. The hone looks recent, and it also looks like the bores might have been ridge reemed.

I have to agree with Ron. The MS is a great system if you have some electronics know how, and don't mind debugging some system problems. Companies like RS Autosport build these without a lot of the production testing that is required if you were to bank your company on it (if you have ever had to bring a product to high volume production, you will understand what I am saying). There is a big difference between soldering boards in your basement, and high volume production manufacturing. The MS is more of a hobby project, if you can't get it to work, you are kind of on your own. I will say that the level of support through the MS community is excellent. Between msefi.com and hybridz, the level of support is actually better than commercial companies. With that being said, a company will usually stand by their product because they have given it a sufficient level of testing. Companies like WolfEMS will stand by their hardware as long as you own it. You send it back, they will fix it or replace it (it may take month or so for them to do so though). You do get what you pay for, and the money you save with MS will typiacally cost you in debug or repair time or expense. I like MS mainly because I'm an electronics geek (professional), and I love to see these kind of things come to life.

My previous statement was refering to the use of a stock ECU. Yes, if you get the Jim Wolf ECU for the 420cc/min inectors, it will run fine. But with what you spent on that, you could have a completely programmable system in Megasquirt.

Gavin, Make sure you have your spark output inverted if you are using the VB921, or it will get very hot, and eventually fail. It also may cause resets. If you have it running good, it looks like you already figured that out. Great job!

What were you talking about? 8^) Oh, now I remember.... You can run fuel and ignition on any MS (2.2, 3.0, MSII).

Great to hear that you figured it out! Patience and hard work usually pay off in te long run. Any good quality OEM style wire will work fine (NGK, Bosch, etc.). You never want to use solid core wires on a street car with a modern ignition. Also, always use resistor plus, especially where you have a wide variation in wire lengths. I made the mistake of putting non resistor plugs in my SC car that is running EDIS. The wire length varies from about 6" to 30". Without a resistor plug (which have a much higher resistance than the plug wires), it would not fire under load. Resistor plugs will make the transmission line for each spark plug wire essentially the same. The universal Summit Racing wires are also decent quality, and come without the coil ends unattached so you can customize the length. The come with HEI and standard coil plugs so the work great for any direct fire setup.

It mainly improves the sealing capability. Yea, it is sticky, but that actually makes it harder to get the head on, and aligned.

I use copper spray on new OEM head and exhaust gaskets. In fact, I have reused OEM exhaust gaskets by appying 3 coats of copper spray. On NISMO metal gaskets I only use copper spray on the second or third use (never tried to reuse one 4 times). I use the Permatex copper spray: http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_sealants/auto_Permatex_Copper_Spray-A-Gasket_Hi-Temp_Adhesive_Sealant.htm You can get it at most auto parts stores.

Everything Paul (BRAAP) said, plus... With 420cc/min injectors, you are going to have a hard time getting it drivable. Yea, you might be able to get run right for max power, but around town and at idle, it will probably not run very well. With all the mods you plan, consider either MS or another aftermarket system. You will get the most out of your other mods, and still retain economy at idle and cruise.

I've never seen a Nissan OEM gasket that was sicky. All the ones I've used have been dry. Maybe you got one from a different batch made by a different OEM. You can use the gasket dry, but if you have some copper spray handy, go ahead an put a couple coats on, it can't hurt.

That's a serious flux capacitor you've got in there! 8^)

I work through HolyRoller Dyno. They have a Dynapack, which is an incredible piece of test equipment. It's just a matter of getting together enough cars that need tuning, to make it worth their while. It's portable, so they can bring it anywhere.

Gavin, I'm surprised that it ran at without the Dave cap. My fuel only installations where you are triggering off the minus terminal of the coil always required the Dave cap. We should hook up sometime. My cars are in for the winter, but you can still come by sometime. We typically have "work on the club car" days in the winter at my house. You are always welcome (no, you don't have to work, unless you want to). When I get the dyno again for a day, we should get your car on it. Probably won't do another dyno day until spring.

Tony, Do you know what GM vehicle uses these COP coils with the built in drivers?

So it is the same v2.2 board that you we using before, right? And you are just trying to get MSII working in a fuel-only mode for starters, correct? The MSII may be more sensitive to noise on the tach input signal for some reason. I need to take a look at the schematic. PM me, I'm in NH.