chrism

I would do a compression test. See if you have wind in the sails. Or at least see if the compression is consistant while the engine cranks. I would do a wet and dry test. Make sure there isn't a drastic change in compression between each test.

Put a noid light on the injector and make sure it is blinking when you crank the car. If it does not blink. You are not getting any current flow through the injector. You will still see 12v at the injector but it will not pull low to ground through the ECU. That could be a bad ground or problem with the ECU.

To bad you don't live in North Carolina. I have an L28 fuel injected with turbo that has 10k miles on it. Took it out to put in the RB . Couldn't resist. It also needs some tranny work. Linkage adjustment or bad syncs. Comes with additional 4 speed that works fine. Not sure. You can see it on craigs list for raleigh nc. Shipping would cost too much.

I would swap the spark plug wire with one of similar length if possable. Also, you could swap the injector with another one to see if the problem moves. How do you know it's piston #6 if you don't have a timing light?

You should get the schematic to your car and see what common circuit connects all those components together. It's probably a common ground wire that was loose or not reconnected. I have a 75 280 and there is a PID terminal connector in the steering column that connects all kinds of junk. My wiper blades, half the dash lights, turn signals went out.

Try going to Digikey.COM you can search for a resistor by watts and resistance. That will narrow down the list and then you can get part numbers from the list. Use the manufactures part number. From that point, you can cross ref with what Radio shack has or you can order from Digikey. They have a handling fee if the order is less than $25 or so.

This is an example of what you can do with Powerpoint.

Ya, I found that problem also, I got that wired up and now the car runs fine. I got a lot of responses from others about not using the relays at all. They had some work arounds but I don't know if they had any other problems with the EGO heater . I looked at the FSM for some time and could not figure out how the relays worked together. I would think that it would be straight forward but when I connected them up, I would not get a pulse on the injectors. Also, the battery would go dead in a day. Once I separated the ground, that solved those issues. Could be something else but now that the car is running fine, I'll leave it that way. I have been driving it for several weeks and haven't noticed anything unusual. Thanks for the heads up. I'll check all the other sensors to make sure they test as per the FSM.

Going to close this thread out by saying that the dropping resistor in the RB20DET is for the fuel pump. There are no injector dropping resistors for the stock version. The injectors are high impedance. They don't need resistors. Got the car to run by resolving the Relay issue. The twin relays located next to the ECU have to be rewired so that they work independently of each other. They come wired from the factory with a common ground. That was causing all kinds of problems. Rewired them to work as independent relays. No more problems and the battery doesn't drain.

Ok, so I found that the factory tack uses +12v based on some of the threads on this site. I’ll have to look at the schematic and see if the RB20 tack signal is +12v. I don't have any way of measuring it. Some people have complained of causing damage to the ECU when making connections to the tack feed of the ECU. I don’t want to make that mistake so if someone is using the original tack with the RB20, please let me know how you connected it. I’m not really game for trial and error. Thanks

I have a smooth pedal response. It doesn't stick or feel loose.

I've been looking for info on connection the original 75z tach to the RB20. Does anyone know where on this site that information might be. I looked everywere but all I found was how to hook up aftermarket tachs Thanks

Try checking your fuel pressure. It could be high.

Dude, You really need to get the schematic for that car. It shows where every wire in the car goes and what devices share power and ground. It also shows how the switches work. That helped me when all my lights went out. Found the ground wire inside the steering column had come loose. I must have tugged on the harness at some point and made it come lose. That killed the dash lights and the wipers also.

HAHAHAHAHAH!!! Thats funny. I hope I have a good sense of humer if it happens again. Drove it this morning with not problems.

Just got the rb20 to stop complaining and run good. Found some small things like no power to the O2 sensor. I drove it all day Sunday with no problems. Just when I think I’m gonna take it to work and show it off, it decides to die on me and I didn’t even get out of the neighborhood. No, it had to break down right at the main entrance. Found a blown fuse that feeds power to the ECU along with other things. It happened when I turned on the wipers. I figure, don’t turn on the wipers and the fuse shouldn’t blow. I did the walk of shame back to my house and got another fuse. Put it in and I was back up and running. Drove all the way to work. Showed off the car. Then decided to take a co-worker with me to lunch. Hey, you want a ride in the Z I asked very proudly. Turned out to be a push in the Z. We broke down at the most congested intersection. Cars everywhere. No one would let me push the darn thing of to the side. (It’s no longer a Z at this point, just a darn thing). We had to call our admin to come and pick us up in her ford Taurus. God, what contest in hell did I win. After getting off work, if finally took a closer look and found that the clutch peddle assembly was rubbing against the wire harness right where it comes through the firewall. The cable came loose and started shorting out. Fixed it and all is well in the world now. I don't need any more days like today.

Super, I'll check that out tomarrow.

Looking at other forums. They say 850c is about the temp it should be at. 750c if you keep your foot out of it. Can anyone confirm that?

Anyone know what the stock RB20DET exhaust temp is suppose to be? I have been looking around the forum and can’t seem to find it exactly. Some one posted the head temp at around 900 to 1200 deg f. I have a pyrometer and it’s reading around 800 f at cruse speed of 70 mph It’s mounted several inches down from the turbo as per the installation manual. No mods to the engine. Just stock.

I have an RB20 but the cable connection should be the same. I didn't run cable to the peddle. I ran the cable to the linkage on the firewall. This is the pivot linkage with some of the push rod left over from the L28. I routed it through the hood latch assembly. You can see a home made clamp that converts the solid linkage over to cable. Then I connected a right hand drive Skyline cable from that to the throttle. You can see from this pic that the cable bracket is mounted to the other side of the hood latch assembly and bolted to the fire wall to keep the cable assembly from moving. From there it loops around to the throttle. The total movement of the peddle matches the total open and close position of the RB20 throttle. Works perfect. No modifications under the dash where it is hard to reach.

Ditto on the RB20DET. I just put one in my 75. Still dealing with closed loop idle issues. Once it worms up, smooth as glass. Turbo spools as soon as you touch the gas. I don't have any fuel specs yet but I here 35 mph is not out of the question. Once you here this thing ref to 8k, you won't be getting 35 mph. Your not going to be able to resist pushing it where ever you'r headed. I would add a good upgrade radiator though. This little engine puts out a lot of heat. Also, do you research before starting. Lots of parts take time to get in so you will want to make a list and get them on order asap.

I put the dropping resistor between the battery and the injectors. I did not wire them to the ECU. Don't know if that would cause issues. I'm suprised that you are not flooding the motor with bigger injectors. No mention of an AFC.

I didn't buy mine for resale but it doesn't hurt to know that they hold some value. (Gonna take it with me to the grave) I still get just as many looks with my inexpensive Z as most guys get with there $35k + cars. Mostly because people are not sure what type of car it is they are looking at. Also because it has just as much eye appeal.

Thanks Always go to have credible sources to provide feedback on what works best.

PRC custom double pass radiator. Made to fit the radiator support and have the inlets on the right side. Also can get it with a fan shroud that helps with cooling. I will worn you that it took several months before they shipped mine.