Derek

No but I have it controlling my farting! Right now with everything going on with the manifold that will be last on the list! It's still on the list though. The round knob panel looks good but the knobs are a little small and slippery and the symbols are really small to read. The lighting leaves something to be desired as well. Derek

Hi Alex That looks like the damper on my car. Where is the timing mark in relation to the 1/4-20 bolt holes. Also I need the length of the threaded area of the crank bolt. Thanks Derek

Stop farting so much and you won't need fresh air intake! I have a/c tape over my fresh air intake and there are times when I wouldn't mind bringing in a little air. I like that slide vent your using. I'm not super happy with the rotary knob unit I'm using. Derek

I think it looks great. All except for that red and blue anodizing...So...Gauche. Seriously it looks really tough. Nice work Pete. Derek

Alright. I have the order placed with the laser cutter and according to him "it should probably maybe be done this week I'm pretty sure" Talk about being ambiguous! I have may car ripped apart for the intake install and decided to pull the EDIS hub off of the damper. One thing that occurred to me is the 1/4-20 bolts that I had in there aren't really necessary for the function of the hub adapter. They are merely there as an index so that you can remove the hub after the car has been timed and reinstall it in the same place. Certainly the torque of the crank bolt will keep the hub from spinning. This allowed me to make a change on the hub and 36-1 wheel that I think is a real plus. Here's a layout of what's going to happen The design change is going from washers clamping the escort wheel in position to the laser cut wheel being slotted for adjustment. This is a much superior method of attachment. There really needs to be very little adjustment being as we're all using the same mounting point for the sensor. This is how my setup is laid out. If the relationship between the timing mark on the damper and the 1/4-20 holes in the damper hub are all the same then this will greatly simplify the installation. So if you guys can look at your dampers and see if they are drilled the same as mine or not and let me know it will help out a lot. The bottom line is the 1/4-20 holes are not a make or break deal they just help with the ease of installation. Also can you measure your crank bolt length. I'd like to supply a longer bolt with the hub to make up for the added thickness of adapter. Mine has a very thick washer and it looks like a 40mm is probably going to do the trick Thanks Derek

Cool. The that means you can come over and help me with my install!! Florida's not that big of a state. Derek

I'm putting together an instruction sheet for this installation. I'm running a little behind! One observation that I made is the 1/4 20 indexing bolts don't need to be in there. The torque of the crank bolt is more than enough to keep it from spinning. That's the recommendation I'll be making in the instructions after disassembling mine. derek

It's hell being a pioneer. Wow a hacksaw to the pulley! Your a better man than I am. You did say you'd make it work though. I guess the offset on your damper is a little different. I'm glad you were able to make it work though. Thanks again Derek

I hope so! I've got about 1/2" clearance and I plan to run some sort of torque strap. I'm dreaming about firing it up towards the end of next week. Maybe a good time for a club meeting! Tony you have to wait longer to comment. That way at least some of this stuff will seem like my idea! Then again I could always say great minds..... Busting arse right now to try and get enough stuff ready to carve for next week so the machines will be working and I'll be working on the car. I'm thinking slow feed rates will be the order of the day! That way I'll have less interruptions. Still don't have the thermocouples for the EGT yet so I have no idea what kind of well to machine. Derek

I'm ordering up the wire for my manifold install. I'm using 4 conductor shielded wire. One positive and one negative for each bank. So each wire will be supplying 3 injectors. Is 18ga sufficient? Thanks Derek

Hi Phar The PVC is going to be mounted on a 90 degree boss that's welded to the bottom of the balance tube between 2 and 3. This way the stock hose can be shortened and still utilized. I'll have a K&N breather on the VC for now. Just say no to bling! No colored anodizing either! Think old school 70's factory race team. My plan on the valve cover is to clean it up and then start out walnut blasting. If that won't do it then I'll switch to glass spheres then back to the walnut shells. Same with the water outlet. The thermostat housing is new and off of a 280 as I have to mount the coolant sensor in it. The valvecover, timing cover, water outlet are all die cast. That's why they have a smoother finish than things like a manifold that's sand cast. So if you go at them with too heavy of an abrasive they start looking a little rough. Right now the plan (until it changes again) is to run a cable from the existing bell crank under the the manifold to a lever on the bottom of #4 throttle shaft. Better than driving it from #6 and very workable. I have 1 extra lever so I don't have to set up to do a run. By using the bell crank I can do a stealth mounting of my cruise control and snake the cable behind the brake booster. I hope. I stripped the manifolds down to make all the final mods and re machined the flange angles. Had to pull 4 degrees off in order to get hood clearance. Looks better too. I have to move the TPS to #5. On #6 it's too close to the header tube. At this point I'm transferring the manifold and header over to the mock up head so I can start finalizing the boss arrangements. After everything's good to go it's time to goop. And oh, I'm supposed to make a living while all this is going on! Derek

It's a dessert topping and a throttle body bore sealer. This stuffs the sh!t! I did a test on a spare tube and old butterfly. I balanced the butterfly in the tube and it had a lot more gap than my worst bore. I painted a fairly liberal coat on both sides of the butterfly. I let it flash for about 20 min. and then baked it at 350 for an hour. Perfect. The goop maintained its structure and the bore was air tight. The butterfly popped right open and out as there wasn't a shaft. You can see the sealing ridge it left. The camera makes it look a lot larger than it is. After baking the stuff is uber tough. I couldn't scratch it off with a set of needle nose pliers. I put the butterfly back in and even though it wasn't in the same exact spot I couldn't see any light. Needless to say they'll be getting the Goop 213 treatment. Oh and my hood is staying on and unmolested. Derek

Hi Clint I have a drawing of a coil pack. I really need the pack itself so that I can make sure the offset on the standoffs is correct. Derek

What and you didn't notice the coil and the Hi-fire box with an EDIS system. This here's a very special Z car! Derek

Thanks guys. This is the part I've been waiting (dreading) for. What fits what doesn't fit. The hood issue is really minor. the hardest part of that is pulling the Kurt vice off of the mill and wrestling the angle table in. The setup is pretty simple. Everything fits right now underneath but when I tilt it I'm going to have to move a few bosses that will hit the header tubes. But that's why they invented the word prototype! The fuel lines were one of those "I have a vision" deals but when I started actual fabrication there were a lot of issues that popped up. If the concept of this works out in the August heat then I'll redo it. I had the lines all bent before I realized I need to have enough spacing on the fuel block to get a line wrench on the fittings so that part is especially convoluted. The vacuum block fits no problem. I kind of wish there was a little more separation between the firewall and manifold but that's one that won't be changing. It looks like the best way to handle the throttle is going to be with a cable. I was hoping that I would be able to make the existing bell crank on the firewall work. Theoretically I could put a second bell crank closer to the hood latch and run it from there but it's starting to get crowded over there. I don't know whether to run a cable directly from the pedal or to go from the bell crank. I had also hoped to drive the throttles from the rear lever only, leaving the top of the manifold clean but I'm getting a little nervous on that setup. I'll probably play it safe at this point and run it over to the center tie bar. I'm using a stainless shrouded cable so it won't look too bad. I may have to move the TPS over to another shaft as it looks like it's going to be a bit close to the #6 header tube. All in all not too bad for a first fitting. Thanks again for all the support. This probably wouldn't of happened without you guys. Derek

Wait for it . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Keep waiting . . . . . . . . . BAM! Ok the scuzzy ass engine makes this pretty anticlimactic but I promise I'll improve that before I do the final install. It really looks a lot better in person. And now for the bad news. I'm not really happy with the ascetics of the angle of the manifold. I feel it's pointing upward a little more than I would of liked. Now for the good news. It hit's the hood so I have no choice but to fix it! I designed it to have the best possible (in my mind) angle into the head. I knew it was going to be close so I have plenty of meat on the intake flange so I can bring it down a few degrees. It's definitely Tuff looking though Now comes the hard part. Staying focused on work while this is going on. Derek

Got everything done for the test fit. The last part was the injection line looms. My plan was to anchor the looms with insulators to stop the heat transfer. I changed plans after the first set and decided to let the lines free hang and anchor the fuel block to the head. There's nylon tubing between the looms and the stainless lines. Mostly to stop electrolysis but it will help in heat transfer. The fuel block has the inlet on the bottom and the regulator goes on the side. There's a decent amount of air gap between the valve cover and the lines. If there's a version 2.0 I'll bring them even further out. I'm pretty happy with the lines as a first effort but I'd relly like to scrap them and start from scratch. Wouldn't be prudent at this point though!

If someone sends me a coil I can make a bracket. PM sent

No Fair you got yours running before mine!! I had the same problem with my install on the EDIS. Had the saw wire in the wrong spot. My 49 year old eyes let me down! Great work Pete! Derek

Alright here's the deal. I did a few hubs for three members to get a feel for it before proceeding. Here's the prices Everything includes the required bolts. Sensor mount $48.00 Ford Coil bracket $25.00 Hub 85.00 Laser cut 36-1 trigger wheel... That depends. If I buy 4 from the laser cutter it's $50.00 each. If I buy 8 it comes down to $30.00 each. IF I can get 4 people to commit to hubs and trigger wheels I'll buy 8 and hope to sell the rest over time. If someone wants to send me a dodge coil I'll make a bracket for the same price. So there's no confusion this is for a damper with 2 pulleys only. I offered to machine the escort wheels for the three people that bought the hubs for $15.00 each. The bottom line on that is It's going to be cheaper in the long run to just use the laser cut wheels. The escort wheels are all (so far) slightly different and one was bent pretty badly. So we need 4 brave souls to buy hubs and wheels so I can order 8 and get the price within reason. Let me know Derek

Too late! Since I opted to go with the procedure I mentioned earlier the manifold won't even accept an injector with a pintle cap. I guess we'll just have to see how it runs. Derek

Hi Tony I based my injector mounting on this info We usually make these out of 1 inch bar stock. We like to seal the vacuum side of the injector with a 5/8 ID- 3/4 OD O-ring slid over the nose of the injector body. This will work on any standard injector. You can pull off the stock O-ring and pintle cap. Bore the bar stock to .640-.650, straight through. This allows a slight air gap between the boss and injector to reduce heat transfer and fuel boiling. A .740 counterbore, .040 deep is machined at the end for O-ring retention and sealing. We usually cut off the bosses at 45 degrees so that they are about 1.35 to 1.5 inches long. This is a good entry angle for many injectors into the runner and is an easy angle to saw at. Taken from this site http://www.sdsefi.com/techinta.htm At the time it seemed like the best way to go. There is quite a bit of air gap between the manifold and injector. The base of the injector body is sitting on an o-ring . I'm afraid if I don't have the injector clamped down I'll have a vacuum leak at the base of the injector. After putting together a few CNC retrofits I'm a big fan of multi conductor shielded wire. I'm using it on everything. injectors, sensors, the works. And single point grounds as well. I learned one thing early on, noise sux. Derek

Actually my plan is to drill a small hole in the web and run the wires straight down and under the manifold. They'll go into the same loom as the balance vacuum lines and pop out at the log. I'll put the upper wires in gray heat shrink so they'll kind of disappear. I'm waiting until I get the header on my mock up head so I can see what kind of room I have to work with. Derek

It looks like they're pointing towards the air stream. Kind of like "pissing in the wind" Well I have a plan to try and hide the wires. Not sure if it will work or not though. Well I orbited in with a .375" mill and then brought it to size with a boring head. Super smooth and true bore. I put a chamfer on the hole to aid in the insertion of the injector. The top of the injector hits a shoulder and then compresses the injector into the manifold making the vacuum seal. Derek

Lookin great Pete. Looks like you need some "butterfly goo®" I couldn't help myself. Derek