Derek

Thanks Garvice. I really tried to make the vacuum log work on the firewall but it really wasn't cutting it for me. Although it fit it was so close to #6 stack that it really muddied up (warning art term ahead) the negative space. Now I have a clear definition between the stack and firewall. Alodine is just a brush on hose off chemical treatment. I actually had some in stock under duponts 226S converter. The company who makes Alodine also has one that's clear. Hi DaeronChrome is bling flat aluminum is not! I'd like to know what that paint is. Looking at how sad the manifold makes my engine compartment I'm going to have to do a little detailing. I hear ya. I'm not posting this stuff to get petted by you guys anymore. I know your all behind me 100 percent and every one has been really supportive. How many times can you post "this thing is awsome"! I can't believe how long the details have taken. Although I've done a fair amount of prototype work I'm still surprised at how long the details have taken on this. But of course I'm usually billing some one by the hour so it has more of a warm fuzzy feeling. I'm usually a 90 percenter when I do stuff like this. That's just my nature. I'm really trying to make this at least a 92. Derek Oh and look I finally have an avatar!

Made some good progress today! As usual Tony was right on the money about the glass beading and Alodine. That's the same valve cover and water outlet that was in the previous shots. The finish is exactly what I was looking for. Clean but bling free. I really hope I can keep the wires below the manifold. It's such a clean look. And of course I forgot to put the center link on the linkage for the shots. I think the oil cap is going to need some attention! Art shot 1 Art shot 2 Which looks strikingly similar to this historic photo! Now I didn't set out to copy Bob Sharps turbo manifold but it kind of worked out that way! After I started designing my manifold I posted some early renderings on ClassicZ. Someone directed me to a post on the atlantic forum about a manifold they were trying to build. This was one of the pictures they had posted. I perused the thread and promptly forgot all about it. The other night I was revisiting some of the early posts and decided to have another look at the thread and saw that shot so figured I'd have a little fun. I'm in no way comparing my manifold to Bob Sharp! But it's nice that it has the right feel for the era. Here's the unedited shot which I really like. I'm on a roll baby!!! Oh and I will be fixing that rats nest of wires at the battery.

Here's how I see it happening: Whats that smell? Why is it running rough? Where is that smoke coming from? I have 1/2" silica blanket that I use in my kilns. You can hold a torch against it and it barely get's hot on the other side. I plan on having that between the wires and the headers underneath the web of the manifold where you can't see it. The sleeving is a high temp version. As soon as I get it running I'll be monitoring the heat situation. If it becomes a problem then I'll reach underneath cut the wires and run everything on top. I'm too far into it not to give it a try. It just looks so clean with everything underneath. Derek

I'll take that as a compliment!

It's been slow going but I'm plugging along. Everything seems to take forever. Or at least a lot longer than I figured! Here's what I got finished. Made thermo wells for EGT sensors and welded them in the header. Stripped down the manifolds and welded on the new TPS bosses. made a throttle cable bracket and welded it to the manifold. Drill and tap for the PCV valve. DAG 213 the throttle bores. Assemble shafts and butterflies Dag them and bake at 350 for an hour. Treat the manifolds with Alodine. Run the vacuum syncro lines 2 or 3 times until I get something I like. Run out of vacuum line. Wire up injector clips. Here's some latest pics. I've decided to mount the vacuum log on the fender well and run the lines and injection harness straight over. There just wasn't enough real estate on the fire wall for everything PCV valve is working out well. I have to section the stock hose to fit but it won't be a big deal. Here you can see the Throttle cable bracket and TPS. No vacuum lines yet on this side. The cable will run over to an arm that's on the empty shaft on #4 Next it's surge tank and fuel line installation. Derek

Phar you have me all confused. Are you doing this on purpose to distract me from my manifold:biggrin: My setup is for the EDIS wheel only. What ignition system is that from? Derek

Well I need two pulleys so that's a non starter for me. You know we like our A/C in Florida! The rebuilding service is good to know though. The whole assumption on my hub adapter is that the crank bolt is true and the hub adapter fits snugly on the crank bolt. The outer rim is concentric with the bolt hole. The laser cut 36-1 wheels are then bored to match the hub. The hub adapter has air gap all the way around it and only contacts the damper at the machined area where the crank bolt washer contacts. Now having said all that If anyone wants to move towards using Pete's method PM me and I'll gladly refund their money. Fortunately I haven't spent it yet:biggrin: But you better hurry I need some stuff for my manifold! Derek

Just to prove I'm not stoned. This is going to complicate things for some (all) of you. It appears my sensor holder bolts on to where your timing indicators currently mount. This is going to make your install a bit trickier. Your going to have to rig a timing indicator on the drivers side. Here's the way it would work. Install hub adapter and 36-1 wheel. Set the timing indicator on 10 deg btdc. Make a timing pointer out of stiff wire (temporary) or out of sheet stock. Mount it in one of the holes that my indicator mounts to. Make a mark on the damper where the pointer is. This is now 10 deg. btdc (limp mode). Install sensor, align 36-1 wheel, check timing at new mark. I'll add this to my install instructions with a little better detail. If This is going to be too much hassle I can refund money. Although making a wire indicator is a lot easier than making a sensor mount! Derek

Hi Alex. Now we're getting somewhere. Your damper is exactly the same as mine except for the timing mark. Mine is the mirror image of yours. My timing indicator badge is on the left side. Yours must be on the right side where the sensor mount is going to bolt. Am I correct on this? Thanks Derek

I'm not sure what your asking but the hub adapter will only fit the stock damper like this one. I'm trying to find out the relationship between the 2) 1/4-20 puller bolts and the timing marks over the various hubs. Ideally knowing the relationship between the keyway, timing mark and 1/4 20 bolts. would be great. I'm trying to get this info so I can make these as close to a plug and play as I can get. Thanks Derek

Well aren't you living right! Similar story.. Hurricane Andrew plows through Cutler Ridge. Get a call from a friend "can you get down there to my in laws with plywood gas etc and see what I can do. I round up 2 friends, and head down there with a sh!t load of stuff and do a bunch of emergency repairs. The dude has an awesome home machine shop as a hobby. months later the guy has a stroke. The wife calls me " come pick this stuff up I'm sure it will go to a good home" I get the same sort of equipment as you and the exact I mean exact same band saw. That is an awesome machine and will serve you well for metal as well as wood. Good luck (I think you already have some) Derek

There's a tiny notch in the rim of the innermost pulley.

No but I have it controlling my farting! Right now with everything going on with the manifold that will be last on the list! It's still on the list though. The round knob panel looks good but the knobs are a little small and slippery and the symbols are really small to read. The lighting leaves something to be desired as well. Derek

Hi Alex That looks like the damper on my car. Where is the timing mark in relation to the 1/4-20 bolt holes. Also I need the length of the threaded area of the crank bolt. Thanks Derek

Stop farting so much and you won't need fresh air intake! I have a/c tape over my fresh air intake and there are times when I wouldn't mind bringing in a little air. I like that slide vent your using. I'm not super happy with the rotary knob unit I'm using. Derek

I think it looks great. All except for that red and blue anodizing...So...Gauche. Seriously it looks really tough. Nice work Pete. Derek

Alright. I have the order placed with the laser cutter and according to him "it should probably maybe be done this week I'm pretty sure" Talk about being ambiguous! I have may car ripped apart for the intake install and decided to pull the EDIS hub off of the damper. One thing that occurred to me is the 1/4-20 bolts that I had in there aren't really necessary for the function of the hub adapter. They are merely there as an index so that you can remove the hub after the car has been timed and reinstall it in the same place. Certainly the torque of the crank bolt will keep the hub from spinning. This allowed me to make a change on the hub and 36-1 wheel that I think is a real plus. Here's a layout of what's going to happen The design change is going from washers clamping the escort wheel in position to the laser cut wheel being slotted for adjustment. This is a much superior method of attachment. There really needs to be very little adjustment being as we're all using the same mounting point for the sensor. This is how my setup is laid out. If the relationship between the timing mark on the damper and the 1/4-20 holes in the damper hub are all the same then this will greatly simplify the installation. So if you guys can look at your dampers and see if they are drilled the same as mine or not and let me know it will help out a lot. The bottom line is the 1/4-20 holes are not a make or break deal they just help with the ease of installation. Also can you measure your crank bolt length. I'd like to supply a longer bolt with the hub to make up for the added thickness of adapter. Mine has a very thick washer and it looks like a 40mm is probably going to do the trick Thanks Derek

Cool. The that means you can come over and help me with my install!! Florida's not that big of a state. Derek

I'm putting together an instruction sheet for this installation. I'm running a little behind! One observation that I made is the 1/4 20 indexing bolts don't need to be in there. The torque of the crank bolt is more than enough to keep it from spinning. That's the recommendation I'll be making in the instructions after disassembling mine. derek

It's hell being a pioneer. Wow a hacksaw to the pulley! Your a better man than I am. You did say you'd make it work though. I guess the offset on your damper is a little different. I'm glad you were able to make it work though. Thanks again Derek

I hope so! I've got about 1/2" clearance and I plan to run some sort of torque strap. I'm dreaming about firing it up towards the end of next week. Maybe a good time for a club meeting! Tony you have to wait longer to comment. That way at least some of this stuff will seem like my idea! Then again I could always say great minds..... Busting arse right now to try and get enough stuff ready to carve for next week so the machines will be working and I'll be working on the car. I'm thinking slow feed rates will be the order of the day! That way I'll have less interruptions. Still don't have the thermocouples for the EGT yet so I have no idea what kind of well to machine. Derek

I'm ordering up the wire for my manifold install. I'm using 4 conductor shielded wire. One positive and one negative for each bank. So each wire will be supplying 3 injectors. Is 18ga sufficient? Thanks Derek

Hi Phar The PVC is going to be mounted on a 90 degree boss that's welded to the bottom of the balance tube between 2 and 3. This way the stock hose can be shortened and still utilized. I'll have a K&N breather on the VC for now. Just say no to bling! No colored anodizing either! Think old school 70's factory race team. My plan on the valve cover is to clean it up and then start out walnut blasting. If that won't do it then I'll switch to glass spheres then back to the walnut shells. Same with the water outlet. The thermostat housing is new and off of a 280 as I have to mount the coolant sensor in it. The valvecover, timing cover, water outlet are all die cast. That's why they have a smoother finish than things like a manifold that's sand cast. So if you go at them with too heavy of an abrasive they start looking a little rough. Right now the plan (until it changes again) is to run a cable from the existing bell crank under the the manifold to a lever on the bottom of #4 throttle shaft. Better than driving it from #6 and very workable. I have 1 extra lever so I don't have to set up to do a run. By using the bell crank I can do a stealth mounting of my cruise control and snake the cable behind the brake booster. I hope. I stripped the manifolds down to make all the final mods and re machined the flange angles. Had to pull 4 degrees off in order to get hood clearance. Looks better too. I have to move the TPS to #5. On #6 it's too close to the header tube. At this point I'm transferring the manifold and header over to the mock up head so I can start finalizing the boss arrangements. After everything's good to go it's time to goop. And oh, I'm supposed to make a living while all this is going on! Derek

It's a dessert topping and a throttle body bore sealer. This stuffs the sh!t! I did a test on a spare tube and old butterfly. I balanced the butterfly in the tube and it had a lot more gap than my worst bore. I painted a fairly liberal coat on both sides of the butterfly. I let it flash for about 20 min. and then baked it at 350 for an hour. Perfect. The goop maintained its structure and the bore was air tight. The butterfly popped right open and out as there wasn't a shaft. You can see the sealing ridge it left. The camera makes it look a lot larger than it is. After baking the stuff is uber tough. I couldn't scratch it off with a set of needle nose pliers. I put the butterfly back in and even though it wasn't in the same exact spot I couldn't see any light. Needless to say they'll be getting the Goop 213 treatment. Oh and my hood is staying on and unmolested. Derek

Hi Clint I have a drawing of a coil pack. I really need the pack itself so that I can make sure the offset on the standoffs is correct. Derek