Derek

Thanks Kevin Certainly you and 1 Fast Z have a pretty good idea what it takes to get something like this completed! Hi BradWell considering my SUs would land anywhere from 700 to 1200 on any given day a steady 900 is golden! It will go lower but when I switch on my A/C it kills the motor. I have to switch to the extra code in order to run the IAC in closed loop for me to have any lower idle. I still have a bunch of tidying up to do but I hope to have it back on the road Tuesday or Wednesday. When I get more comfortable with Megasquirt I'll switch over to the Extra code. Derek

Thanks for the table Daniel. Well thanks to Pete's excellent phone support I made some great progress today. I have the car idling at 900 rpm and the IAC stepper works like a charm. Got everything buttoned up and managed to take it for a quick spin around the block. Still need's a bit of tuning but you can feel the potential. The sound is really something. A very deep throaty growl. I'm really happy with the performance so far. Ran the car at mostly an idle a lot today and had no heat issues with the ceramic mat. I found a company that sells an aluminum covered carbon based mat that I'm going to check into. Phew I need a break. Derek

Thanks everyone. Starting to get a handle on things. Pete (Z-Ya) is going to give me a little phone tech support so that should help me connect the dots. Pete provided my initial MSQ and the thing fired right up. I'll have a lot more to say by the end of the day. And it sounds awesome! Derek

Sorry for the crappy video and sound. I have to figure it all out. It's running rich as crap and I occurs to me I have no idea what to do next. Here's a data log of where I'm at. I'm going to go out to the shop and play. Derek first run.zip

Sorry guys but I just couldn't get everything finished today. Unfortunately I had a appointment and I couldn't stay late. Tomorrow is another day though. Derek

I have to install the bulkhead and then the tank and high pressure filter so I'm missing some clamps. RX7 lift pump into tank with Walbro in tank pump. Ok the welds could be a little better but I haven't done any serious tig welding in a year or more. No leaks though! I made a hybrid fitting for the high pressure side. I took a 6AN elbow and drilled and taped it to 1/4 pipe. This makes for a nice connection in the surge tank. Yes the terminal screws are insulated. Believe it or not it all fits back there. Derek

Hey where did you find that picture of me? Man you could tell those chicks really dug me!

Well I'm starting to see the end of the line. 4 speed to 5 speed swap complete. Header installed Intake installed. Fuel delivery line converted to 6AN. Injectors installed. Fuel rail installed. Fuel system pressure tested at 125 PSI. All sensors connected and operational (this is starting to sound like a freeking countdown) All I have left to do is install the surge tank and hook up the pressure regulator and then fire it up. Tomorrow should be the day. I'll bring the video camera in with me just in case. Derek

My compressor doesn't use an idler pulley as an adjuster. Do you think I would be able to make it work with this. Thanks Derek

Hi olie I'm only using them for analysis. Since this is a prototype I want to be able to see how even they are. Hi PharYes we did have a nice discussion on heat sheilds and I promptly discarded it as soon as I had the header on the mock up head. Here's the deal. I really want to design something that's as unobtrusive as possible. I really like the look of the headers through the manifold. In order to do this I have to run it so I can see what I'm dealing with thermally. I have a insulation blanket that I'll be putting under the web to protect the wires and vacuum tubes. Hopefully this will be all I need. The bung on 6 is the air temp sensor. That may get moved outside the manifold depending on how bad the heat soak is. ThanksDaniel Well I guess I'll stop looking for a taurus fan! Was it the shroud that hit compressor or the fan? It will be a while before I do anything as I'm going to be burned out and a lot poorer by the time this is done! Derek

DING DING DING we have a winner! I was surprised no one said anything! It's a piece of terrazo colored corian solid surface material. I use it a lot for my prototyping. I wouldnt use it as a permanent solution but it's held up well for a few hundred miles! Keep your eyes pealed and you may see another piece as a fuel pump blockoff in the near future! Too bad there isnt a prize though. Derek

Thanks Jeff. The issue isn't so much the injector harness as it is the vacuum lines for the vacuum log. They have to go across to the log that has yet to mounted on the fender well. Since I have those going across I might as well have the injector harness there as well. This routing tends to get everything out away from the heat faster than going to the fire wall. I made the harness long enough to go either way so I can still change it. In person it really doesn't look that obtrusive. Derek

I imagine if i don't do a video I'll be hunted down like the dog I am. Fans,fans, fans.... all this talk about electric fans. Now I'm looking at ebay for a Taurus fan.... And searching Hybridz to see if it will work. I agree the distinctive woosh will take away from the throttle sound. Thanks Roger.Not interested in trades at this time but you can probably get enough for him on the black market or ebay though! I guess you'll have to switch back to porn!I was thinking of the same thing earlier. As badly as I want this to be done I'm going to miss the design challenge. Fortunately I've got lot's of other stuff lined up. Hmm that valve cover is looking pretty plain..... Derek

Thanks Garvice. I really tried to make the vacuum log work on the firewall but it really wasn't cutting it for me. Although it fit it was so close to #6 stack that it really muddied up (warning art term ahead) the negative space. Now I have a clear definition between the stack and firewall. Alodine is just a brush on hose off chemical treatment. I actually had some in stock under duponts 226S converter. The company who makes Alodine also has one that's clear. Hi DaeronChrome is bling flat aluminum is not! I'd like to know what that paint is. Looking at how sad the manifold makes my engine compartment I'm going to have to do a little detailing. I hear ya. I'm not posting this stuff to get petted by you guys anymore. I know your all behind me 100 percent and every one has been really supportive. How many times can you post "this thing is awsome"! I can't believe how long the details have taken. Although I've done a fair amount of prototype work I'm still surprised at how long the details have taken on this. But of course I'm usually billing some one by the hour so it has more of a warm fuzzy feeling. I'm usually a 90 percenter when I do stuff like this. That's just my nature. I'm really trying to make this at least a 92. Derek Oh and look I finally have an avatar!

Made some good progress today! As usual Tony was right on the money about the glass beading and Alodine. That's the same valve cover and water outlet that was in the previous shots. The finish is exactly what I was looking for. Clean but bling free. I really hope I can keep the wires below the manifold. It's such a clean look. And of course I forgot to put the center link on the linkage for the shots. I think the oil cap is going to need some attention! Art shot 1 Art shot 2 Which looks strikingly similar to this historic photo! Now I didn't set out to copy Bob Sharps turbo manifold but it kind of worked out that way! After I started designing my manifold I posted some early renderings on ClassicZ. Someone directed me to a post on the atlantic forum about a manifold they were trying to build. This was one of the pictures they had posted. I perused the thread and promptly forgot all about it. The other night I was revisiting some of the early posts and decided to have another look at the thread and saw that shot so figured I'd have a little fun. I'm in no way comparing my manifold to Bob Sharp! But it's nice that it has the right feel for the era. Here's the unedited shot which I really like. I'm on a roll baby!!! Oh and I will be fixing that rats nest of wires at the battery.

Here's how I see it happening: Whats that smell? Why is it running rough? Where is that smoke coming from? I have 1/2" silica blanket that I use in my kilns. You can hold a torch against it and it barely get's hot on the other side. I plan on having that between the wires and the headers underneath the web of the manifold where you can't see it. The sleeving is a high temp version. As soon as I get it running I'll be monitoring the heat situation. If it becomes a problem then I'll reach underneath cut the wires and run everything on top. I'm too far into it not to give it a try. It just looks so clean with everything underneath. Derek

I'll take that as a compliment!

It's been slow going but I'm plugging along. Everything seems to take forever. Or at least a lot longer than I figured! Here's what I got finished. Made thermo wells for EGT sensors and welded them in the header. Stripped down the manifolds and welded on the new TPS bosses. made a throttle cable bracket and welded it to the manifold. Drill and tap for the PCV valve. DAG 213 the throttle bores. Assemble shafts and butterflies Dag them and bake at 350 for an hour. Treat the manifolds with Alodine. Run the vacuum syncro lines 2 or 3 times until I get something I like. Run out of vacuum line. Wire up injector clips. Here's some latest pics. I've decided to mount the vacuum log on the fender well and run the lines and injection harness straight over. There just wasn't enough real estate on the fire wall for everything PCV valve is working out well. I have to section the stock hose to fit but it won't be a big deal. Here you can see the Throttle cable bracket and TPS. No vacuum lines yet on this side. The cable will run over to an arm that's on the empty shaft on #4 Next it's surge tank and fuel line installation. Derek

Phar you have me all confused. Are you doing this on purpose to distract me from my manifold:biggrin: My setup is for the EDIS wheel only. What ignition system is that from? Derek

Well I need two pulleys so that's a non starter for me. You know we like our A/C in Florida! The rebuilding service is good to know though. The whole assumption on my hub adapter is that the crank bolt is true and the hub adapter fits snugly on the crank bolt. The outer rim is concentric with the bolt hole. The laser cut 36-1 wheels are then bored to match the hub. The hub adapter has air gap all the way around it and only contacts the damper at the machined area where the crank bolt washer contacts. Now having said all that If anyone wants to move towards using Pete's method PM me and I'll gladly refund their money. Fortunately I haven't spent it yet:biggrin: But you better hurry I need some stuff for my manifold! Derek

Just to prove I'm not stoned. This is going to complicate things for some (all) of you. It appears my sensor holder bolts on to where your timing indicators currently mount. This is going to make your install a bit trickier. Your going to have to rig a timing indicator on the drivers side. Here's the way it would work. Install hub adapter and 36-1 wheel. Set the timing indicator on 10 deg btdc. Make a timing pointer out of stiff wire (temporary) or out of sheet stock. Mount it in one of the holes that my indicator mounts to. Make a mark on the damper where the pointer is. This is now 10 deg. btdc (limp mode). Install sensor, align 36-1 wheel, check timing at new mark. I'll add this to my install instructions with a little better detail. If This is going to be too much hassle I can refund money. Although making a wire indicator is a lot easier than making a sensor mount! Derek

Hi Alex. Now we're getting somewhere. Your damper is exactly the same as mine except for the timing mark. Mine is the mirror image of yours. My timing indicator badge is on the left side. Yours must be on the right side where the sensor mount is going to bolt. Am I correct on this? Thanks Derek

I'm not sure what your asking but the hub adapter will only fit the stock damper like this one. I'm trying to find out the relationship between the 2) 1/4-20 puller bolts and the timing marks over the various hubs. Ideally knowing the relationship between the keyway, timing mark and 1/4 20 bolts. would be great. I'm trying to get this info so I can make these as close to a plug and play as I can get. Thanks Derek

Well aren't you living right! Similar story.. Hurricane Andrew plows through Cutler Ridge. Get a call from a friend "can you get down there to my in laws with plywood gas etc and see what I can do. I round up 2 friends, and head down there with a sh!t load of stuff and do a bunch of emergency repairs. The dude has an awesome home machine shop as a hobby. months later the guy has a stroke. The wife calls me " come pick this stuff up I'm sure it will go to a good home" I get the same sort of equipment as you and the exact I mean exact same band saw. That is an awesome machine and will serve you well for metal as well as wood. Good luck (I think you already have some) Derek

There's a tiny notch in the rim of the innermost pulley.