Derek

Went smoother than silk. Then only thing I had to mess with was switching the sensor wires around. I got it running in limp mode first then went with megasquirt. I even nailed the initial timing on the 36-1 ring! The Magnecore wires are really nice. They only took about a week to get here. I was skeptical at first about using the Ford coil but I kind of like the way they snap on. Here's a shot of the wires. I'm planning on getting some looms. Taylor makes a nice 6 cylinder set that will work really well. I know my engines really ratty. After I get my manifold done and working I'll be ripping the top end off as I have a oil leak between the head and the timing cover. It will be getting a major detailing then. And here's the obligatory laptop on roof shot A big thanks to all the pioneers on HybridZ that went before me. All the info made this a real piece of cake. Now for the road test and the dreaded noise issues. I hope they're minor! Derek

Thanks for the dimensions. PM sent. Derek OOPS just reread the post. I think your talking about an in line pump. I'm looking for dimensions on an in tank.

I'm thinking about making a surge tank with an in tank pump something like this http://www.geocities.com/hrayhouston/antisurgetank.html I'm going to fab it out of aluminum. I need to know the overall height with the electric plug on to see if it's feasible to make it small enough to fit between the tank and the mustache bar. Thanks Derek

Wow Pete that really sucks. The fire really adds insult to injury. Derek

Hi Ed I used these Hella fuse boxes. http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=767 I used a 8 position inside the car that replaced my melted factory box then placed 4 and 6 position boxes in various locations on the car. As an example I have a 4 position box up front that fuses my headlights, auxiliary fan and A/C clutch. Derek

Thanks Pete Well if I didn't have the CNC Knee mill My bracket would look exactly like yours being as I was a fabricator before I was a pattern maker. No problem Jeff. The bracket is pretty straight forward. The wheel adapter was a real PIA though. I started with a 2" thick square and had to hog it out on the mill before I moved it to the lathe for the turning ops. The Gaggia is no slouch for sure. The best thing I did was putting the PID controller for the temp. That makes it a Hybrid so it should be ok for this forum! Derek

That was a bit of work! Well the finish isn't perfect as I didn't want to spend the time with finish passes but it works like a champ or a clamp as the case may be! The bracket is rock solid. it's a little tight getting to the adjuster screw but all and all I'm pleased with the results. Now all I have to do is make the hold down washers for the 36-1 and the bracket for the EDIS module and I'll be ready for the megasquirt. derek

I'd get nothing done without this bad boy! Derek

Here's the mock up for the sensor bracket. I'm using corian solid surface material in case your wondering. The final product will be machined from 6061 aluminum. The large hole is the timing cover bolt next to the oil pump and the small adjustment hole is a boss on the timing cover. I have a ton of adjustment but that will be reduced to almost nothing on the final product. This should make for a nice rigid mount Now it's time to start whittling some aluminum! Derek

Thanks Dave. I'm planning on mounting the module directly across from the coil tucked up under the fender and just in front of the battery. The wheel is held in place by the clamping force of the 4 screws and washers. So this allows it to be rotated into position and then locked down. Derek

For those of you following this saga I started a new thread on the EDIS portion of our show here http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=947804#post947804 Thanks Derek

I decided to get started on my EDIS install. My plan is to get the ignition portion up and running with the megasquirt. Then when I finish my manifold (soon I promise) I won't have to worry about the ignition side of things. I decided to run the ford coil as I plan on running custom Magnecore plug wires and they have the proper boots for the coil. Here is a shot of the coil bracket. I have a pretty good sized air gap between the block and the coil. The wires were $97.00 with shipping by the way. Now for the fun part. The trigger wheel adapter. I'm basically using variation of Sidwels mount. The adapter uses the crank bolt to center it and the 2 1/4-20 puller bolts to keep it indexed. The escort wheel is held in place with 4 screws and washers. This way the ring is adjustable. I have .010" crush on the ring so that should hold it tight enough. Boring out the center. Turning the back side The adapter is dished to allow for the boss on the balancer but it still sits against the boss. There is a slight air gap around the rest of the adapter. Here's the assembled adapter. The washers are just for the mock up. I'll use something larger in application. Well that's it for now. next up is the sensor mount. That should be fun! Derek

Now's the time. The party stores will have them for Halloween. That's the process exactly. That commercial smoke machine will do a fine job. The cheap one i bought only runs for 30 second bursts. It turned out to be plenty of on time though. I'm not too sure how well that would work. The problem is a low pressure area in the cargo space that sucks in the exhaust. Pressure in the cabin would work in reverse of what's actually happening. I lived with this problem in one form or another since 1980 when I bought the car. This is the first time I've had no exhaust fumes in the cabin. Derek

Yep windows down, windows up, one down one up no fumes! The smoke trick really helps you find hidden leaks. Derek

Here's a post I made on how I fixed my exhaust leaks. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=138089 Derek

Hi I'm starting to figure out how I want to mount my sensor for the edis. I noticed that in all of the pictures I could find on HybridZ show the sensors mounted traditionally which points the wires towards the fan blade. I'd really like to mount mine in the opposite direction with the plug angling in towards the motor. This would mean the edis trigger wheel would in effect be spinning in the oppisite direction across the sensor.Any thoughts on this? Thanks Derek

Wow Jeff you had quite the adventure! Glad it all worked out for you. Derek

Interesting idea. He's forming the screens then poring a silicone boot around them. I'm still leaning towards using the wire cloth and foam at this point. The main thing I'm rethinking is the method of attachment. Maybe I can incorporate this guy's rubber boot method with my wire cloth and foam. I have all the equipment to do silicone molding so that wouldn't be a problem. Thanks for the link and idea. Derek

So let it be written, so let it be done! I'll make the pad longer and drill it accordingly. Derek

Let me know on that if you don't mind. I found filter foam from UNI Filter. They offer sheet foam that's .375" thick and 60 PPI density. They also offer 30 PPI as well. I think the idea is on dirt bike is to make a sandwich of the two. I'm going to call UNI and see if they have any suggestions on this. I calculated the area of the filters and I'm going to be hard pressed just to get 60 square inches of surface. As the filters start to plug will that change the AFR and will Megasguirt see it? Just thinking out loud here but it would be nice if there was a way to have Meggasquirt send an error when the condition reached a certain threshold. Something along the lines of "hey butwipe clean your filters!!!" I'm planning on running a carputer so I'll have the ability to monitor the readings anyway. If I try really hard I can complicate this enough to where I'll never get it done!!!! Derek

Hi Phar Yea some gussets on the tabs would probably be a good idea. Thanks. The IAC is from a 1992 Jeep 4.0. Hi Tony I tried to design this as a universal style block so it could be adapted to other applications that wanted a stand alone IAC/Vacuum log. Derek

What's interesting to me is they offer the 3D cad files for download and seem to encourage people to make a test model. http://www.tcengine.com/Parts.html You don't see that happen too much! Derek

Sensei Tony D (among others) Recommends using a separate Idle bleed screw as opposed to cracking the throttle plates or using the IAC. Apparently on ITBs you want the butterflies completely closed at idle. I like it because I can easily increase the idle without jumping into megasquirt. Derek

Well I decided to start designing the vacuum log. I wanted to incorporate the IAC and the main idle screw. Then I figured why not mount the balance needle valves on there as well. The individual lines will run over to each boss on the bottom of the throttle body. The lines will be hidden under the web of the manifold. This would make setting them a whole lot easier. It also looks pretty cool! The foot print is about 4.5 x 4.5" and fits right where the choke cables come out of the fire wall. The vacuum inlet is a direct shot over to the outlet on the manifold. It uses a Jeep 4.0 IAC Here's a perspective shot: Here is a view looking straight on at the firewall. Here's a cutaway shot. You can see the shelf under the needle valves that will allow filtered air into the valves. As the IAC raises it will dump filtered air into the vacuum chamber. The fresh air inlet and shelf area will be done with a core. The vacuum passages will be done as a machine op. Am I missing anything? Derek

Hi Tony Any opinion on how thick the foam should be? I made provisions for a screen at the bottom of the bell and this would give me a filter thickness of 1.25". in hindsight this seems to be a bit thick and may be too restrictive. Thanks Derek