Derek

Well about 5 hours ago I had no Idea what I was going to do! At this point I'm probably going with 6 of the AD595 on a separate board. Digikey has them for $11.00 each. I found this post on the innovate forum that has a lot of good info: http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/forums/showthread.php?t=371&highlight=ad595 You probably have this but I'll post it for others PDF for the AD595 http://www.analog.com/static/imported-files/data_sheets/AD594_595.pdf Am I correct in thinking that you can vary the range that it reads by changing the value of a resistor or am I confused. I was planning on getting the Fusion Brain anyway and I have a Fluke pyrometer so I can always read the thermocouples individually. We may want to spin this off to another thread if there's interest. Derek

Here's what I'm thinking 6 of these Running into one of these http://www.fusioncontrolcentre.com/FusionStore//catalog/product_info.php?products_id=62 hooked up to this My current carputer With this skin But with 6 inputs labeled cylinders 1-6 I'm pretty sure this is doable. I just need to calculate whether the resolution of the fusion brain will give me an accurate enough reading. it's 10 bit over a 0-5v input if any of you geniuses out there know what the hell that means. I don't! The software has data logging over all the inputs. $59.00 for the brain 7.00 each for the thermocouples carputer already installed Cool factor........ Priceless Derek

No worries (in my best yank does Australian accent)! The individual bungs are in each tube of the header so that after I have the car running and tuned I can then analyze the mixture on each cylinder by screwing in an 02 sensor and hooking it to megasquirt (or a standalone reader if that's problematic). That way if there's a glaring problem in the design I'll be able to gauge weather changes I make are making a difference. Derek

Divorced from Derek's cast intake manifold thread http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=129941 --RTz Thanks guys. Sounds like I'm heading in the right direction. I'll pull the vacuum for the map sensor from the log. Since this is a test mule of sorts would it behoove me to weld in 6 O2 sensor bungs in the header while I have it off. This would allow me to read each individual cylinder. I'd have to move an O2 sensor from hole to hole but it's doable. I can make the bungs up on the lathe so it's not a big deal. Any thoughts? Derek

No problemo. Derek

My plan is to use this 8K signal generator http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=109/category_id=-1/home_id=-1/mode=prod/prd109.htm I'm not positive on this but I don't think there's enough room between the tunnel and the transmission for this. I might need to locate a 90 degree speedo cable adapter or a cable that's about 6" long with females on both ends. derek

Hey Jeff I just got the Rostra setup for Christmas. I'll be installing it right after I install my manifold. It looks like a nice system. Derek

I was looking at my gas cap the other day and I noticed that it has a one way flapper valve in it allowing air in the tank but not letting anything escape. Don't know if it works or not as I have a vent line on mine but that's the design of the cap. there are 2 ridges that run across the cap. I used to think these were strengthening ribs but upon closer examination they are the vents. Derek

I have these as well as the Spal central locking system and couldn't be happier. Smooth quiet and fast. Derek

It's been a while since I did mine but there's a large diameter (3/4" i think) nipple on the top od the tank. I ran a 3/4" fuel hose from that through the car and into the filler neck. Derek

Did they vent the tank to the filler neck? If not this may be a problem. Derek

It's kind of hard to roll the amperage up and not move the torch. I ended up splicing a momentary contact button in. This way I would use the button for on-off and the rheostat for trimming the amperage. I mostly welded aluminum so button welding was my method of choice anyway. derek

Got this beauty back from the foundry today The internals came out exactly like I wanted. Now if I just had some free time for machining. Derek

Well I'm above you! I'm not sure if that's a good thing though!!! Derek

Hi Pete The two manifold balance tubes are connected in the middle with a hose. So I should be ok adding vacuum from one side of the manifold. Thanks Derek

Ok I went back and re-read every single post on this build. One thing that jumped out at me was that I may be screwing up with the way I'm introducing idle control vacuum. As it's designed right now I'm just dumping it into the balance tube at the end of #6 runner. I'm starting to think this may be a mistake as this will cause #6 to run lean. Would a better solution be to run 6 individual lines to each runner to introduce the vacuum. I haven't machined the log yet so this would not be a big problem to do Any thoughts on this Thanks Derek

Josh you crack me up! It will be interesting to see the graph after I post a video of it running. Derek

Josh I'm 49 and have had my Z since 1980 or 81. In that time I've had 5 or 6 girlfriends and one wife. The wife loves riding in the Z and there's never a question as to what car we're taking when we run errands together. And that's why she's the wife and the others were girlfriends! Derek

Hi Phar Well it really looks the same as in post #226 except the butterflies are in and there's springs on the bottom of the shafts. Install is going to take longer than projected. The only way to do the heat shield is remove the header from my car and mount it on to my mock up head with the manifold. Then I can accurately fabricate the heat shield. Also I'm not going to put much time in cleaning the engine compartment as I have to pull the head eventually so I'll just wait for that. I have a major list of things I need to do on the car at the same time so the cars going to be off the road for a few weeks. And work and reality just got in the way. I pretty much chewed up all my allotted time and then some! I need to kick out a few patterns and then I can get back on it. Probably going to be the third week of January before I can install the manifold. Sigh....... At least with the throttle springs on I can periodically walk by, snap the throttles and go "woomba woomba". Hey it's all I got right now! Good info an good advice! Fortunately it will be cool here for a few more months so I won't have to deal with it right away. Seriously my SU's are such crap none of these problems are going to be any worse than I'm dealing with right now. Derek

A central distribution block in between the manifolds would be cool but being as the lines are done I'll be sticking with what I have! I'll be using a fuel pressure regulator at the distribution block with a return line to the tank. Well I made some good progress today. All of the butterflies are installed, The return springs are installed, and the linkage is adjusted and installed. So technically speaking the MANIFOLD IS DONE!!! I think. I still have to put in the vacuum stuff but unfortunately my parts didn't arrive yesterday. But all of the main machine work and assembly is completed. I'm also about halfway through the surge tank. I'll finish it up in the morning and then jump on the vacuum log when it arrives in the afternoon. We're almost there! Derek

Well I got the fuel lines done. Man That was tedious! The clips I ordered are nice but they have a molded strain relief into the plug and they will hit the fuel lines. I ordered another set that just has wires. Soon as I get them I can make the injector clamps. The foundry cast the vacuum log today hopefully I'll get it on Friday. Still to do: Machine fuel distribution block. Machine vacuum log Machine injector hold downs Machine and fit butterflies. Figure out return springs Work out PCV valve Make surge tank Yea I'll be done in January....January 2010!!!

My mom lives in Jupiter and I'll be driving the car down to Fort Lauderdale as soon as it's running well. I'm sure I can figure a way for you West palm guys to get up close and personal with my manifold....Ok maybe not that close and not that personal.... I wouldn't go that far! But I have burned up a fair amount of gray matter on this thing.

Here's a little teaser! I'm still using the too tall caps for the mock up so the lines will drop down about .25" or so. There is a .75" gap between the lines and the valve cover. I test each flare at 125 psi before I do the bend. I hope this works in the summer as it get's pretty darn hot . Derek

Hi Phar I have a real concern that the gas may boil but the look of it is so cool that I had to try it. If this doesn't work then I'll run short stainless lines to a fuel rail and have more of a traditional style delivery system. I tried flipping the air filters around and it just doesn't do anything for me. I personally like the way it looks and the air filters will be an option. I domed them to get the most surface area I could. This is one of those "see how it works in application" deals! Derek

Here's some really good spray glue at a good price http://www.glueplace.com/1081-spray-trim-adhe.html