Derek

Hi Carter Unfortunately that would require a redesign on the levers and linkage so that won't be happening right now. Thanks for the input though. Hi Kevin Well it was your idea to use the needle valves to begin with. I have spys everywhere!Actually I was looking at the IAC housing at DIY auto tune and the log on your site and figured that needs to be all one piece. Then the visual of the needle valves with the lines running over to the runners just sealed the deal. I had to have it! That's my original plan. I'll establish a base line on the butterflies and then decide if I need to make changes. Right now I'm trying to get a feel for all this so that if I have a problem I'll have plan be ready to go. I can't get started on the install yet so I might as well work this crap out in the meantime. I couldn't come up with any unless I bought $500.00 worth. That coating is really more of an antifouling/sticking compound anyway.I'd rather have it work without anything. This is really just a problem with the prototypes. There were a couple of areas I needed to be more precise on and kind of blew it. The embedded stainless tube idea is a winner. I just need to make a couple of changes in the way I align everything prior to the pour. Well It's my understanding that the needle valves introduce a small amount of air just behind the butterfly but in front of the balance tube. This simulates cracking the throttle plate a little. The needles are just for synchronization. The base idle is set manually with the large idle screw on the log. The IAC is for controlling cold start. And as far as mounting the IAC in the manifold it can't possibly look as cool as the log...I mean did you see that thing!! Sniff...Sniff... I'm so proud.... Derek

Well I figured with your background I'd be hearing from you on this one! INFORMATION OVERLOAD!!!! I need to backup a bit and get a little egimikated on this hear synchronization thing. So we have idle synchronization and off idle synchronization. In a perfect world the butterflies would be air tight and the idle would be handled with the base idle screw. there would be no need for idle synchronization. The off idle synchronization would be handled with the needle valves on the log. Since I built this with a broad ax the butterflies are not perfect so I need a method of synchronizing them at idle. Or I need a way to get the butterflies as airtight as possible at idle. I was running under the assumption that when the needle valves are set at idle then this would make all things equal the the off idle would follow suit. Derek

Just how in the hell am I going to synchronize these things! I'm thinking my old Uni-Syn just ain't gonna cut it. Motion Pro sells this: http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0411 And Morgan sells this: http://www.carbtune.co.uk/c.com/index.html Obviously since they're for a four cylinder I'll have to do it in stages. The Morgan seems to get generally better reviews. Thanks Derek

Man I really hope so!

Thanks Pete. It was really straight forward. Drill a hole all the way through to the vacuum passage. pocket for o-ring, pocket for idle valve. So If I charge $1400.00 I'll be giving everyone a bargain!!! It does look spiffy though. Maybe $1450.00 Derek

I'm doing a bunch of 3D scanning so I had some free time in between setups so I did the machine work on the log. Now that's pretty tough looking! The spring under the base idle screw will be replaced with something a little nicer. The production model will have bigger mounting tabs as well as a second core for the vacuum side. I did a simple cross drill on this one but there was a large amount of mass in the casting which can cause problems in the metal. The second core will lighten the casting as well as create a larger reservoir for the vacuum. Derek

Not this weekend. Just paid all the bills and checked the bank. YIKES!!! Warning...account below comfort level. Probably going to take me a couple weeks to get back ahead of the curve. Derek

Thanks Phar The individual EGT sensors are merely a way for me to analyze the performance of the individual runners. Assuming the injectors are flow matched (supposedly they are) and Megasquirt delivers consistant amounts of fuel (it should) then any anomilies in temperatures can (sorta maybe) be atributed to intake design or assembly. The carputer has a 7" touchscreen. Derek

Crap I wish I had seen that before I got the kit from Dakota. I'll get ahold of Rostra. I'll bet they sell the cable separately. Thanks for the heads up Derek

Yes it's my first divorce! So Sad..... Everything you ever need to know about carputers http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/ Right now mine has my music, GPS navigation, and I integrated Megatune into it. I'm working on a better solution than Megatune as the gauges are tiny tiney incy wincy little things! Derek

Hi Carter Glad to see we finally found a subject that piques your interest. Thanks for the info. I checked Mcmaster for the thermocouples but they were a bit pricey. Probably better than the ones I'm looking at but still pricey! Check out this schematic from the innovate site: And here's the description from Klaus who I think is an engineer there: "Attached is the AD595 circuit for EGT measurement. With a minimum of 13V supply voltage it measures up to 1100 deg C (2012 deg F). Set the LogWorks input to: 0V = 32 deg F (0 deg C) 5V = 2012 deg F (1100 deg C) The AD595 can handle a supply voltage of up to 36 Volts. So it can run on a car's 12V supply without any regulator. Minimum supply voltage required to go up to 1100 deg C is 13V, which should be no problem for most cars. Lower supply voltage just reduces the max temp, not the measurement. The AD595 outputs 10mV/deg C, up to a max of supply voltage - 2V. The divider circuit of R1 and R2 divides the AD595 output by 5/11. R1 and R2 should be 1% resistors. Wattage for the resistors does not matter (1/10th Watt is enough). The Zener diode protects the LM-1 if the AD595 fails. The capacitors of 0.1uF and 10uF filter noise. R3 is required only if the TK used has an isolated junction. On those there is no continuity between the TK wires and the TK body. Type K TKs have color coded wires. Yellow and red. I don't recall which one is which. If you hook them up wrong you won't damage anything, but it will not measure." You can see he's using R1 and R2 to reduce the output. I don't know if this method reduces accuracy or not. Keep in mind they're using this for EGT reading to a 0-5v gauge so it should work for the fusion brain. I found this place (I'm sure there's others) to make the circuit boards. http://www.expresspcb.com/index.htm I was toying with the idea of making them myself but for that kind of pricing it's just not worth it. I'm not sure how many inputs to have on the board. Once I'm done testing the manifold 6 inputs should be plenty for any temp sensing I want to do. One for EGT, one for oil temp, ok that's all that come to mind but I'm sure there will be others. Derek

Well about 5 hours ago I had no Idea what I was going to do! At this point I'm probably going with 6 of the AD595 on a separate board. Digikey has them for $11.00 each. I found this post on the innovate forum that has a lot of good info: http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/forums/showthread.php?t=371&highlight=ad595 You probably have this but I'll post it for others PDF for the AD595 http://www.analog.com/static/imported-files/data_sheets/AD594_595.pdf Am I correct in thinking that you can vary the range that it reads by changing the value of a resistor or am I confused. I was planning on getting the Fusion Brain anyway and I have a Fluke pyrometer so I can always read the thermocouples individually. We may want to spin this off to another thread if there's interest. Derek

Here's what I'm thinking 6 of these Running into one of these http://www.fusioncontrolcentre.com/FusionStore//catalog/product_info.php?products_id=62 hooked up to this My current carputer With this skin But with 6 inputs labeled cylinders 1-6 I'm pretty sure this is doable. I just need to calculate whether the resolution of the fusion brain will give me an accurate enough reading. it's 10 bit over a 0-5v input if any of you geniuses out there know what the hell that means. I don't! The software has data logging over all the inputs. $59.00 for the brain 7.00 each for the thermocouples carputer already installed Cool factor........ Priceless Derek

No worries (in my best yank does Australian accent)! The individual bungs are in each tube of the header so that after I have the car running and tuned I can then analyze the mixture on each cylinder by screwing in an 02 sensor and hooking it to megasquirt (or a standalone reader if that's problematic). That way if there's a glaring problem in the design I'll be able to gauge weather changes I make are making a difference. Derek

Divorced from Derek's cast intake manifold thread http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=129941 --RTz Thanks guys. Sounds like I'm heading in the right direction. I'll pull the vacuum for the map sensor from the log. Since this is a test mule of sorts would it behoove me to weld in 6 O2 sensor bungs in the header while I have it off. This would allow me to read each individual cylinder. I'd have to move an O2 sensor from hole to hole but it's doable. I can make the bungs up on the lathe so it's not a big deal. Any thoughts? Derek

No problemo. Derek

My plan is to use this 8K signal generator http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=109/category_id=-1/home_id=-1/mode=prod/prd109.htm I'm not positive on this but I don't think there's enough room between the tunnel and the transmission for this. I might need to locate a 90 degree speedo cable adapter or a cable that's about 6" long with females on both ends. derek

Hey Jeff I just got the Rostra setup for Christmas. I'll be installing it right after I install my manifold. It looks like a nice system. Derek

I was looking at my gas cap the other day and I noticed that it has a one way flapper valve in it allowing air in the tank but not letting anything escape. Don't know if it works or not as I have a vent line on mine but that's the design of the cap. there are 2 ridges that run across the cap. I used to think these were strengthening ribs but upon closer examination they are the vents. Derek

I have these as well as the Spal central locking system and couldn't be happier. Smooth quiet and fast. Derek

It's been a while since I did mine but there's a large diameter (3/4" i think) nipple on the top od the tank. I ran a 3/4" fuel hose from that through the car and into the filler neck. Derek

Did they vent the tank to the filler neck? If not this may be a problem. Derek

It's kind of hard to roll the amperage up and not move the torch. I ended up splicing a momentary contact button in. This way I would use the button for on-off and the rheostat for trimming the amperage. I mostly welded aluminum so button welding was my method of choice anyway. derek

Got this beauty back from the foundry today The internals came out exactly like I wanted. Now if I just had some free time for machining. Derek

Well I'm above you! I'm not sure if that's a good thing though!!! Derek