Derek

What a bunch of whiners! You actually want things to fit? After perusing the pictures I know what the problem is. The outer pully on my damper is to drive a air pump and is a narrower groove. This means the distance from the base of the damper where the crank bolt goes to the shoulder of the pulley is longer. That's why there is an air gap between the hub adapter and the damper. There are a few way's we can go. 1) I can leave the country and you'll never hear from me again. 2) I can machine a spacer to go between the damper and the hub adapter to space it out. This would require some good measuring. but is doable. 3) Someone (rossman I'm talkin to you man ) can send me their damper, sensor, and all the parts back and I'll machine everything to fit. At that point we will probably have a baseline to work from. This is my preferred solution. I take a lot of pride in my work and it bugs me that this stuff isn't working out for you guys. Let me know. Derek

Or Air conditioning, power windows, central locking, cruise control or an on-board computer. It's called "artistic license" The IAC symbolizes modern mans desire for convenience yet struggling with the dichotomy of the myth of simpler times. Or something like that. You low down dirty thread stealer!!! You couldn't have come out with this a few months ago? Derek How'd the goop work out for ya?

Hi Nigel I'm running MS2/Extra. I'm running the 2.1 beta. It's almost ready for lockdown so it's stable. I upgraded mainly for the IAC control but it seems to run better as well. Only the VE table is 16x16. Derek

I'm not sure. If it's the same bolt pattern as softopz's damper then What I plan on making for him should work for you. My AC compressor is on the drivers side. I had more room on the passengers side as the v angle on the alternator belt is wider. Derek

I think it's hanging out too far! Here's the deal. Get me a measurement from the face of the damper to the face of the flat sensor bracket that mounts to the case. I also need the spacing on the two bolts on the damper. I'll cut you a spacer plate to replace the hub that will bolt on the way you have it and bring the wheel in closer. I'll set it up for one of my laser cut wheels. This method of mounting will work but it's dependent on the holes in the damper being concentric to the bore. Otherwise it will have runout. It will be better than what you have though. I'll exchange the whole rig all you have to do is pay shipping. These EDIS wheels have been a pain anyway and I'd like to see this done right. How's that for a deal. Derek

You just keep thinkin' Butch (Phar). That's what you're good at. I did give that some thought but hadn't gone any further. The tricky part would be the angles (and probably a host of other things I haven't thought of) I periodically pull the air cleaners and check things out. Everything looks AOK. The goo still looks exactly the same. I put the screws in with red loc tight so they shouldn't be a problem. I really thought I was going to have to tear it apart so I didn't stake the screws. I'm at mile 750 or so. I'll probably pull them around 1500 -2000 and check everything out. If all is well I'll stake the screws and call it a day. I was really surprised about the MAP as well. That's why it took me so long to move it over to the manifold. I just didn't think it would matter.WRONG. Man the learning curve for me was steep. At the suggestion of Daniel (Zmanco) I switched over to the latest beta extra code. I'm glad I did. My IAC is finally working as it should. I'm actuall tuning the closed loop idle settings today. The 16x16 table helps the tune as well. The funny thing is though, the car has driven better than the SUs regardless of what tune I had! I still can't believe how drivable these things are. I was lugging through my neighborhood in third gear last night and it just was smooth as silk! No bucking, farting or sneezing. The car ran pretty good too. Derek

I moved the map sensor over to one of the runners. Underneath of course. WOW! Now we're getting somewhere. Not only does my IAC operate as it should but the MAP signal is a lot steadier. It's also operating in a wider range of the table. Now yet another re-tune. I ordered a decent microphone from amazon so I should have some in-car video's to post soon. I shot a few already but the built in microphone just doesn't cut it. Derek

Here's what I have. 1/2" hose running from the balance tube to the vacuum log. I have a T fitting in the 1/2" line with the master vac hose and the MAP hose attached. when the IAC is closed all is well with the world. But when the valve opens it reduces the vacuum at the MAP sensor and makes the car run way richer. I need to pull the map signal from another spot. Or I need to start investigating Alpha N. Any ideas on this. Thanks Derek

No I'm using a Rostra unit. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=1004361#post1004361 Derek

Well I got my cruise installed. I ended up ordering the magnet sensor kit. I tried to make the speedo cable sensor work but it was too much of a pain. I started out with one magnet but had bad surging. I ended up going with 4 magnets and had to set the pulse count to 18000 before it was drivable. I just did a 2 hour trip and it worked like a champ. Derek

Alright then. I'll move the filter closer to the source and I certainly have plenty of mig tips around as a reducer so I'll give it a try. That sounds pretty cool. I don't think there will be any code written by me though. Well at some point that may happen! Well I just got back from a 2 hour round trip to Tampa and back and the car never missed a beat. Averaged about 75mph the whole time. My new cruise control worked like a champ. I didn't check the mileage but judging by the usage on the gas gauge I got a lot better MPG. The only problem I'm having is with the IAC. It seems to get confused as to which direction it needs to go when I fire it up. I've been dealing with it since the beginning and I guess it's about time I got it figured out. Derek

Hi Tony Unfortunately that pulse is with a small Kohler fuel filter in line. I have it right at the Megasquirt unit. I'm not sure if it matters or not. Should it be closer to the manifold? I think I have an old multi chamber bong I built in the early 80's that might do the trick though. Boy that bad boy smoothed out the pulses! I'm using 24LB injectors. I used the "required fuel calculator" in Megatune to get the fuel amount. I'm not sure if that play's into duty cycle or not as I'm a Megaidiot when It comes to Megasquirt. But I'm improving. Derek

Before I go for a reservoir I'd like to find out if that is excessive pulsing. Anybody........ Bueller.....

Hi Daniel. I was actually combing through your msq when you posted this. I'm getting a much better handle on everything. I'm finding that it likes to be around 13.8 or richer when I'm cruising around. Any leaner and it just feels a little erratic. I can see where turning off the gizmos is helping. As I got my VE closer the AE suddenly became way too rich. Making it run wide open is no problem. It's making it run while your lugging along in 3rd gear in traffic is the tough part! I went in and redid all my BINS to give me better resolution in the around town cruise areas. Here's a screen shot of me in 4th gear at 2600 RPM. The MAP has some pulsing in it. I'm not sure if this is normal or not. Also you can see the injectors and voltage pulse right along with it. It's running rich. I can see where this tuning thing becomes addicting. Thanks Phar. It is so much nicer to drive as well. Also if I go into production it's a simple bolt on affair. Thanks for the thought on the donation but I've got a couple of projects booked already that should put me right back in the green. Derek

This would be my choice but hey I'm biased! Of course you'd have to photoshop out the nasty engine compartment. Derek

Yea Baby now that's what I'm talkin about!!! My own stimulus plan. I think we'd be better off spending the money on "Teach Derek how Megasquirt really works" class. I just spent the morning redoing my VE table. I had everything so screwed up I'm surprised it ran as well as it did. The EGO control was really getting a workout. I was trying to fix VE problems with acceleration enrichment's as well. I'm not smart I'm determined. Rick I believe I'll take you up on that shroud offer. Thanks. Derek

Me no usey shroud because me no havey shroud! Derek

Hi Pete I have a 12 or 13" pusher in front of the condenser that comes on with the compressor. Right now I'm not running a shroud. This is the same setup I ran last August and had zero overheating problems. If I run 2 smaller fans the drivers side would blow air across the manifold. This may be advantageous in the summer at an idle. Or not.... Derek

Well I had a break in my "limited" action today so I decided to take a stab at redoing my linkage. When I did the conversion I ended up using a cable. I really wanted to use rods and continue them from the existing bell crank to the manifold but time issues forced me to use the cable. The cable sucked. It was like a leg press getting it off idle and then it was normal the rest of the way. It was really hard to drive that way. Here's what I ended up with. Smooth as buttah! What a difference. I ran out of hex stock so I'm temporarily using round. The cable on the factory bell crank goes to the cruise control. The bracket on the firewall bolts into the two holes from the pivot on the carbs. I know I should be driving it from the center linkage instead of #6 and I still might when I redo the rods but I'm going to run it like this for while and see how it goes. Derek

Fan...fan...fan That's all you guys ever talk about! Electric fan is absolutely on my list as is probably head work, pistons and a cam. But the key phrase was "money permitting". Derek

Hi Phar Well now that you mention it I've been wondering if I saw the two inner horns off would they work on a L20? Those 510 guys have a lot more money than we do! Derek

WOW Thanks for the support. And believe me I'm much more than happy with this setup. I guess I was looking for higher numbers so that I could get enough interest to go for version 2.0. Originally I had no intention of selling these. But now that I have probably $20,000 in time (seriously) and materials in this thing I'd like to pursue actually selling a few. Not to mention the ego boost it would give me! Mea Culpa time. I had an itch in the back of my head since I left the dyno and I just used my data logs to scratch it. I FORGOT TO TURN THE A/C OFF!!! I was so nervous and jerky as I was a dyno virgin that I'm sure I left it on. When i have the air on the data logs show 12.5 or so voltage. With the air off it reads 13.5 or so. Both data logs on the dyno pulls show in the 12.5 range. As the great philosopher Homer (simpson) said.... DOH! So whats that like 40 or 50 HP? Seriously, it's a SD508 so it's probably good for 4 or 5. Must....Resist....Increasing.....Need....For speed!!! Actually I was looking at the engine calculator and slapping in a set of flat tops and a cam is going to be the cheapest solution to upping the HP. And I think that will put me right where I want to be. The car is great but I wish (boy we've heard this before) it had a little $$$$$$ more grunt. Well Pete made me that offer about a year ago so he's first in line!If I do the motor upgrade I may try and put them on a known engine that's been dyno'd Nor can I. They have never come off the car since the first install. The only thing that has given me trouble was the TPS. Everything else has been tuning issues and minor hose changes. Hell I even slapped cruise control on it! Here's how I know it's making more power. I've got a whole new set of clunks and noises coming from the rear suspension! Derek

when I was building my surge tank setup I wondered why everyone dumped the hot return fuel into the surge tank and then back into the main tank. I have mine run that way for now but I plan on re-plumbing it soon now that it's getting hotter out. Derek

In a word....Nice But as the saying goes I have some good news and some bad news. First the good news. It looks cool, It looks really cool. And it even runs. Oh and it sounds great. So much so I can't seem to keep my foot out of it. Everyone that rides in it agrees it has a lot more power than the SU's. It also starts better, idles better and basically does everything better than my old SU's. I'm still tuning and realizing more and more power. What's really great is if your just cruising around it runs like a normal manifold. I've had it on a couple of hour long drives and it never gave me even the slightest bit of anxiety.It just purrs along. The heat shield is working as it should and so far no hot start problems in 85 degree heat. Now for the bad news. I don't think any amount of fancy NA induction is going to make up for a 8.28:1 compression ratio on an old tired motor. It's just not making a lot of horse power. I took it up to a dyno and paid for a couple of pulls. The results were pretty bad. I'm only making a peak of about 119 hp with about 135 ft pounds of torque. I can only imagine how bad it was with the SU's. And that's the problem. I can only imagine. I had planned on doing a pull with the SU's so I would have something to compare it to but got cheap and lazy and didn't do it. Oh and did I mention I'm broke! I had lined up 4 months worth of work in December before I did the final push only to have every project get put on hold. Never seen anything like it before. Of course you hear a lot of that lately. So My development funds have stopped as well. The $70.00 for the 2 pulls is probably the last I'll be putting into it until I can get straightened out. But at least they're on the car and running. I figure I'll post some prices and we can see if there is any interest and take it from there. If someones looking to meet the criteria that I set when I designed these I can guarantee you won't be disappointed. Derek

The epoxy primer will keep for a while so you can use it again. If your going for a basic finish I would go with a single stage instead of a base/clear. Keep in mind the shinier the finish the better the bodywork has to be. A trick I've done on a couple of beaters I shot was to put in a little flattening agent in the paint. The car looked great because it was all one color but it wasn't too shiny so the bodywork didn't jump out at you. You time frame really limits you. Derek