Derek

Time to show off my manifold I'm going to be in the West Palm Beach area this Tuesday evening the 12th. I'm driving my car down so if anyone is interested in meeting up somewhere let me know. I'll be in the Blue Heron I95 area. The manifold I speak of If anyone's interested then post here and we'll work out the details. Derek

My truck was hit in the 1/4 panel pretty good and went through insurance. I ran a carfax on it and it didn't show up. Derek

This is my go to supplier for a lot of stuff. http://www.mcmaster.com/

I ran into the same direction problems with my cast ITB manifold. First I used a Haltech sensor with a D shaft that went all the way through the switch. It was a total piece of crap. It wouldn't return to "0" consistently. Then I bought one from a Chrysler but I don't think the resoloution is fine enough for Megasquirt. Please post how you make out with this as I'm going to have to make a change at some point. Thanks Derek

looks pretty good for the amount of milling your going to be doing. The 2400 rpm spindle speed will make it tough to get a good finish on aluminum but it's workable. An old mill is a tricky buy. sometimes problems don't show up until you start working the machine. But then it's too late you already own it. Derek

Depends on what I'm driving. F250 4WD diesel with lift gate on back, You betcha. Driving the Z, no way. Now keep in mind there's brake checking and there's brake checking. My idea of a brake check is a light tap just to get their attention not a rapid decel on the verge of locking them up. Now adays though I mostly pull over and let them by. It just isn't worth the hassle. Derek

Hi clint I'm confused as to why you need to mount it on the drivers side. Is there a clearance problem? Derek

Did the 74 260 have A/C?

I'm thinking if I make the hubs to fit the 75-78. Which is the one rossman sent me then it will also fit the dampers like mine. This will become the standard adapter that will fit early (73-74??) and 75-78 2 groove dampers. Derek

The hole pattern on the timing cover is different from the passengers side so the sensor mount has to be mounted there. Mounting it on the drivers side would take a different mount bracket. If you guy's would just go out and buy 73 model year cars this wouldn't be a problem. C'mon work with me here

From what I understand the answer is yes. The hub is the same and as long as it's from a 6 cyl and not a 4 cyl the harmonics should be the same. Derek

Ok Here's the deal. In my infinite wisdom I made my system fit a 1973 damper with an airpump. This fits a damper that has two pullies, the outer one being narrower than the inner and no protruding ears on the inside bore of the damper. I recon this fits about 4 cars in the US, including mine 5. Rossman sent me his setup from a later model 280Z with the A/C mounted on the drivers side. This damper has two pulleys that are the same size and a smooth bore on the inside of the damper. I'm machining a new adapter for his damper and based upon my initial measurements I don't see any problems. So that will damper style #2 highly sent me an IGES file on his adapter that fits the MSA performance single pully damper. I'll be making an adapter ring like the one in the photo of his post. As far as the ZX Turbo goes I'm not sure whay's going to fit that. I kind of have my hands full right now getting everyone that's purchased hooked up with the right parts. I think this is a pic of the Turbo damper This was Rossmans original damper. If anyone that bought one of my hub adapters that hasn't installed it yet please check it out and make sure it fit's. If you have a problem PM me and I'll get it straightened out. Derek

Man that header would look awful purdy under my manifold! Derek

From one fool to another Happy birthday Phil Derek

Mmmmm... That sure is a purdy 3D file. PM sent.

What a bunch of whiners! You actually want things to fit? After perusing the pictures I know what the problem is. The outer pully on my damper is to drive a air pump and is a narrower groove. This means the distance from the base of the damper where the crank bolt goes to the shoulder of the pulley is longer. That's why there is an air gap between the hub adapter and the damper. There are a few way's we can go. 1) I can leave the country and you'll never hear from me again. 2) I can machine a spacer to go between the damper and the hub adapter to space it out. This would require some good measuring. but is doable. 3) Someone (rossman I'm talkin to you man ) can send me their damper, sensor, and all the parts back and I'll machine everything to fit. At that point we will probably have a baseline to work from. This is my preferred solution. I take a lot of pride in my work and it bugs me that this stuff isn't working out for you guys. Let me know. Derek

Or Air conditioning, power windows, central locking, cruise control or an on-board computer. It's called "artistic license" The IAC symbolizes modern mans desire for convenience yet struggling with the dichotomy of the myth of simpler times. Or something like that. You low down dirty thread stealer!!! You couldn't have come out with this a few months ago? Derek How'd the goop work out for ya?

Hi Nigel I'm running MS2/Extra. I'm running the 2.1 beta. It's almost ready for lockdown so it's stable. I upgraded mainly for the IAC control but it seems to run better as well. Only the VE table is 16x16. Derek

I'm not sure. If it's the same bolt pattern as softopz's damper then What I plan on making for him should work for you. My AC compressor is on the drivers side. I had more room on the passengers side as the v angle on the alternator belt is wider. Derek

I think it's hanging out too far! Here's the deal. Get me a measurement from the face of the damper to the face of the flat sensor bracket that mounts to the case. I also need the spacing on the two bolts on the damper. I'll cut you a spacer plate to replace the hub that will bolt on the way you have it and bring the wheel in closer. I'll set it up for one of my laser cut wheels. This method of mounting will work but it's dependent on the holes in the damper being concentric to the bore. Otherwise it will have runout. It will be better than what you have though. I'll exchange the whole rig all you have to do is pay shipping. These EDIS wheels have been a pain anyway and I'd like to see this done right. How's that for a deal. Derek

You just keep thinkin' Butch (Phar). That's what you're good at. I did give that some thought but hadn't gone any further. The tricky part would be the angles (and probably a host of other things I haven't thought of) I periodically pull the air cleaners and check things out. Everything looks AOK. The goo still looks exactly the same. I put the screws in with red loc tight so they shouldn't be a problem. I really thought I was going to have to tear it apart so I didn't stake the screws. I'm at mile 750 or so. I'll probably pull them around 1500 -2000 and check everything out. If all is well I'll stake the screws and call it a day. I was really surprised about the MAP as well. That's why it took me so long to move it over to the manifold. I just didn't think it would matter.WRONG. Man the learning curve for me was steep. At the suggestion of Daniel (Zmanco) I switched over to the latest beta extra code. I'm glad I did. My IAC is finally working as it should. I'm actuall tuning the closed loop idle settings today. The 16x16 table helps the tune as well. The funny thing is though, the car has driven better than the SUs regardless of what tune I had! I still can't believe how drivable these things are. I was lugging through my neighborhood in third gear last night and it just was smooth as silk! No bucking, farting or sneezing. The car ran pretty good too. Derek

I moved the map sensor over to one of the runners. Underneath of course. WOW! Now we're getting somewhere. Not only does my IAC operate as it should but the MAP signal is a lot steadier. It's also operating in a wider range of the table. Now yet another re-tune. I ordered a decent microphone from amazon so I should have some in-car video's to post soon. I shot a few already but the built in microphone just doesn't cut it. Derek

Here's what I have. 1/2" hose running from the balance tube to the vacuum log. I have a T fitting in the 1/2" line with the master vac hose and the MAP hose attached. when the IAC is closed all is well with the world. But when the valve opens it reduces the vacuum at the MAP sensor and makes the car run way richer. I need to pull the map signal from another spot. Or I need to start investigating Alpha N. Any ideas on this. Thanks Derek

No I'm using a Rostra unit. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=1004361#post1004361 Derek

Well I got my cruise installed. I ended up ordering the magnet sensor kit. I tried to make the speedo cable sensor work but it was too much of a pain. I started out with one magnet but had bad surging. I ended up going with 4 magnets and had to set the pulse count to 18000 before it was drivable. I just did a 2 hour trip and it worked like a champ. Derek