Derek

What and you didn't notice the coil and the Hi-fire box with an EDIS system. This here's a very special Z car! Derek

Thanks guys. This is the part I've been waiting (dreading) for. What fits what doesn't fit. The hood issue is really minor. the hardest part of that is pulling the Kurt vice off of the mill and wrestling the angle table in. The setup is pretty simple. Everything fits right now underneath but when I tilt it I'm going to have to move a few bosses that will hit the header tubes. But that's why they invented the word prototype! The fuel lines were one of those "I have a vision" deals but when I started actual fabrication there were a lot of issues that popped up. If the concept of this works out in the August heat then I'll redo it. I had the lines all bent before I realized I need to have enough spacing on the fuel block to get a line wrench on the fittings so that part is especially convoluted. The vacuum block fits no problem. I kind of wish there was a little more separation between the firewall and manifold but that's one that won't be changing. It looks like the best way to handle the throttle is going to be with a cable. I was hoping that I would be able to make the existing bell crank on the firewall work. Theoretically I could put a second bell crank closer to the hood latch and run it from there but it's starting to get crowded over there. I don't know whether to run a cable directly from the pedal or to go from the bell crank. I had also hoped to drive the throttles from the rear lever only, leaving the top of the manifold clean but I'm getting a little nervous on that setup. I'll probably play it safe at this point and run it over to the center tie bar. I'm using a stainless shrouded cable so it won't look too bad. I may have to move the TPS over to another shaft as it looks like it's going to be a bit close to the #6 header tube. All in all not too bad for a first fitting. Thanks again for all the support. This probably wouldn't of happened without you guys. Derek

Wait for it . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Keep waiting . . . . . . . . . BAM! Ok the scuzzy ass engine makes this pretty anticlimactic but I promise I'll improve that before I do the final install. It really looks a lot better in person. And now for the bad news. I'm not really happy with the ascetics of the angle of the manifold. I feel it's pointing upward a little more than I would of liked. Now for the good news. It hit's the hood so I have no choice but to fix it! I designed it to have the best possible (in my mind) angle into the head. I knew it was going to be close so I have plenty of meat on the intake flange so I can bring it down a few degrees. It's definitely Tuff looking though Now comes the hard part. Staying focused on work while this is going on. Derek

Got everything done for the test fit. The last part was the injection line looms. My plan was to anchor the looms with insulators to stop the heat transfer. I changed plans after the first set and decided to let the lines free hang and anchor the fuel block to the head. There's nylon tubing between the looms and the stainless lines. Mostly to stop electrolysis but it will help in heat transfer. The fuel block has the inlet on the bottom and the regulator goes on the side. There's a decent amount of air gap between the valve cover and the lines. If there's a version 2.0 I'll bring them even further out. I'm pretty happy with the lines as a first effort but I'd relly like to scrap them and start from scratch. Wouldn't be prudent at this point though!

If someone sends me a coil I can make a bracket. PM sent

No Fair you got yours running before mine!! I had the same problem with my install on the EDIS. Had the saw wire in the wrong spot. My 49 year old eyes let me down! Great work Pete! Derek

Alright here's the deal. I did a few hubs for three members to get a feel for it before proceeding. Here's the prices Everything includes the required bolts. Sensor mount $48.00 Ford Coil bracket $25.00 Hub 85.00 Laser cut 36-1 trigger wheel... That depends. If I buy 4 from the laser cutter it's $50.00 each. If I buy 8 it comes down to $30.00 each. IF I can get 4 people to commit to hubs and trigger wheels I'll buy 8 and hope to sell the rest over time. If someone wants to send me a dodge coil I'll make a bracket for the same price. So there's no confusion this is for a damper with 2 pulleys only. I offered to machine the escort wheels for the three people that bought the hubs for $15.00 each. The bottom line on that is It's going to be cheaper in the long run to just use the laser cut wheels. The escort wheels are all (so far) slightly different and one was bent pretty badly. So we need 4 brave souls to buy hubs and wheels so I can order 8 and get the price within reason. Let me know Derek

Too late! Since I opted to go with the procedure I mentioned earlier the manifold won't even accept an injector with a pintle cap. I guess we'll just have to see how it runs. Derek

Hi Tony I based my injector mounting on this info We usually make these out of 1 inch bar stock. We like to seal the vacuum side of the injector with a 5/8 ID- 3/4 OD O-ring slid over the nose of the injector body. This will work on any standard injector. You can pull off the stock O-ring and pintle cap. Bore the bar stock to .640-.650, straight through. This allows a slight air gap between the boss and injector to reduce heat transfer and fuel boiling. A .740 counterbore, .040 deep is machined at the end for O-ring retention and sealing. We usually cut off the bosses at 45 degrees so that they are about 1.35 to 1.5 inches long. This is a good entry angle for many injectors into the runner and is an easy angle to saw at. Taken from this site http://www.sdsefi.com/techinta.htm At the time it seemed like the best way to go. There is quite a bit of air gap between the manifold and injector. The base of the injector body is sitting on an o-ring . I'm afraid if I don't have the injector clamped down I'll have a vacuum leak at the base of the injector. After putting together a few CNC retrofits I'm a big fan of multi conductor shielded wire. I'm using it on everything. injectors, sensors, the works. And single point grounds as well. I learned one thing early on, noise sux. Derek

Actually my plan is to drill a small hole in the web and run the wires straight down and under the manifold. They'll go into the same loom as the balance vacuum lines and pop out at the log. I'll put the upper wires in gray heat shrink so they'll kind of disappear. I'm waiting until I get the header on my mock up head so I can see what kind of room I have to work with. Derek

It looks like they're pointing towards the air stream. Kind of like "pissing in the wind" Well I have a plan to try and hide the wires. Not sure if it will work or not though. Well I orbited in with a .375" mill and then brought it to size with a boring head. Super smooth and true bore. I put a chamfer on the hole to aid in the insertion of the injector. The top of the injector hits a shoulder and then compresses the injector into the manifold making the vacuum seal. Derek

Lookin great Pete. Looks like you need some "butterfly goo®" I couldn't help myself. Derek

I hear ya With this crowd you never no what to expect! Actually everything I sell is artwork and only meant for display purposes only. I never imagined anyone would try and use these items on anything as vulgar as an automobile. Hows that for a disclaimer. Derek

It will be installed in January but running..... Hopefully I can get my arms around the whole megasquirt injection setup. Time to contact Speeder and see if his offer from a year and a half ago is still in play. It's the angle of the dangle. The clips are tight but you can get them on and off without removing the line. And your right there's no turning the injector. Not only will it hit the linkage arm but it negates design criteria #1 "Looks Cool" I'll make them available as soon as I get the manifold squared away. Although I did pressure test the clamp and injector at 125 psi with no leaks so I guess I got the bore size right! Derek

Too late. 5" round magnaflow resonator and a Magnafow straight through oval as the muffler. Sounds sweet. And in a few weeks should sound even sweeter! Derek

Well since Phar pointed out just how fugly the clamps were without the radius edge I had to add it to the final design. And I'm glad I did! Thanks for the push, it definitely made a big difference in the look. Check out that awesome chatter in the cuts. People pay big bucks for that you know. I guess I'm going to have to splurge and get some decent mills. Now on to the injector line looms. Derek

One Quart of the official goo will be arriving on Monday or Tuesday. Which is a good thing as it looks like I'll be starting the install on Monday or Tuesday!! Busted butt and got far enough ahead of the foundry to get it started. I won't be able to stick with it exclusively so I'm figuring on a 2 week window. Derek

Here's how I plan to do it. 5/16" hose from fuel tank drain plug conversion to lift pump. lift pump to surge tank. surge tank to high pressure pump. high pressure pump to 5/16 metal line passengers side. 1/4" return to surge tank. 3/16" line becomes atmospheric vent for tank. The vent to the filler neck is there for refueling only.You would need to T into that 3/4" line at the filler neck and run that either to the front of the car via the 3/16" line or vent it to the atmosphere in the rear of the car. Not a great idea as the fumes may find their way into the cabin. You should also add a rollover valve at the T. If you come up with on let me know as I haven't found one yet. If you don't T off of the filler neck and just use one of the extra fittings on the tank every time you fill up fuel will find it's way through the vent line. If it's in the 3/4" line at the neck it's mostly above the fuel level. This part I know from experience! Derek

The old cumulative error problem. And that's my biggest fear. I'm going around and around on the goo. As Tony has said before there is a very real problem of build up of crud between the butterfly and bore. So much so that ford got a patent specifically for their goo. BMW uses it as well. Heck even Rochester used it on their tri-power setups. The DAG 213 is a dry lubricant that just so happens to provide a bit of sealing depending on how it's applied. Put it on a bore surface and install the butterfly and it's a lubricant. Paint it on a bore with the butterfly installed and it's a sealer and lubricant. Here's my reasoning for buying the goo. 1) It's my daily driver and I want it to be dependable. 2) I'm hoping to sell a few of these and I want them to be the best quality. 3) In the time it will take me to pull the manifold and apply the DAG I can earn more than $95.00 4) I've spent many thousands in time (not hobby time but pattern making a living time) and materials on this rig so what's another $95.00 I'm ordering it today. Derek

In April it will be just over 2 years. I'm not sure of the status of the manifold. Derek

When I first started my lust for a unique intake for my car I figured a triple SU would be cool. I then learned the Z Therapy had already made one and had a video on you tube. I called out there and talked to them about making the patterns for them. They said that they had already secured a pattern maker to produce the patterns. That's when I started looking for something else to make and the rest is history... or at least in a few weeks it should be history. All and all I'm glad it turned out the way it did! Derek

I'll get right on it! Derek

Here's more info for the "wiki" I never knew they were vented either. I was looking for alternatives to the way I was currently ventiing so I investigated the cap. Derek

Well I got back on the old google and came up with a source for the DAG 213 that will sell me a quart. It's 95.00 plus shipping. They're going to see if they can sell me a pint but either way I'm going for it. $95.00 is very cheap insurance. Her's a link to the data sheet if anyone is interested http://www.laddresearch.com/SpecSheets/LaddDAG213.pdf It's a baked on product. I'll have to do some trials first. Not sure how resilient it is. If it's too hard then the high area of the butterfly will just hit the DAG and continue to leave a gap. If it's flexible it will allow the butterfly to sink and create a seal. Derek

Hi Carter Unfortunately that would require a redesign on the levers and linkage so that won't be happening right now. Thanks for the input though. Hi Kevin Well it was your idea to use the needle valves to begin with. I have spys everywhere!Actually I was looking at the IAC housing at DIY auto tune and the log on your site and figured that needs to be all one piece. Then the visual of the needle valves with the lines running over to the runners just sealed the deal. I had to have it! That's my original plan. I'll establish a base line on the butterflies and then decide if I need to make changes. Right now I'm trying to get a feel for all this so that if I have a problem I'll have plan be ready to go. I can't get started on the install yet so I might as well work this crap out in the meantime. I couldn't come up with any unless I bought $500.00 worth. That coating is really more of an antifouling/sticking compound anyway.I'd rather have it work without anything. This is really just a problem with the prototypes. There were a couple of areas I needed to be more precise on and kind of blew it. The embedded stainless tube idea is a winner. I just need to make a couple of changes in the way I align everything prior to the pour. Well It's my understanding that the needle valves introduce a small amount of air just behind the butterfly but in front of the balance tube. This simulates cracking the throttle plate a little. The needles are just for synchronization. The base idle is set manually with the large idle screw on the log. The IAC is for controlling cold start. And as far as mounting the IAC in the manifold it can't possibly look as cool as the log...I mean did you see that thing!! Sniff...Sniff... I'm so proud.... Derek