Derek

So guess what this is. Give up? First and foremost it is the last item that I had to engineer for the KN20. Everything else is done. The standard block timing set was all that was left and this is the final part. It's also an item that may save you thousands of dollars:) Very early in the testing of the running prototype I suffered a engine shutdown during a run. Towed the car to the shop and after pulling the valve cover I noticed the welch plug had popped out of the upper tensioner. Unfortunately it fell between the chain and the crank sprocket. It chewed some teeth off and bent a whole lotta valves. Fixed it all up and on the new tensioner I put a couple of tacks between the body and the plug with silicone bronze rod. You can see it in the picture on my mockup tensioner. Ran it for a bit and during an inspection I noticed one of the welds cracked and the plug was on it's way out. WTF?? I ended up drilling through the body of the tensioner and pinning it which was a total PIA. I'm convinced it was the crappy Crane Cams lobe design that was pumping the crap out of the chain and the hydraulics blew the plug out. So this bracket is there as a safety just in case. So sad to say this thread is probably going to get a whole lot duller since there won't be anything new to post engineering wise. I may throw a pic up now and then but I'm thinking this is probably close to the end. Thanks for all of the support and great ideas from my HybridZ family. Derek

There isn't a ton going on since things are starting to settle in as far as design and fab. One thing that has been hanging around is what to do for the lower chain and guide arrangement for the standard height blocks. Although the different setups I tested on the prototype all worked I was never super happy with them. I was trying to use the stock pivoting guide from the KA24 and the 92 link chain but it just wasn't happening. I ended up accepting that I would need to shorten the chain and make a custom guide. I'm no longer intimidated by breaking and relinking a roller chain. It's really pretty straight forward. Making a custom shaped guide allowed me to get the chain fairly tight with the tensioner all the way in. It also allowed me to get the lead in angle I wanted. The guide is made from molly impregnated nylon 6-6. This is the material I used on a fixed guide on the prototype as well as whats on my car currently. Nylon 6-6 has been used as guide material for a while so it's a proven commodity. Here is the final version. Th notch in the back side of the guide provides clearance for the water pump area on the timing cover. Trying to adapt a KA24 guide always required removing a section of that area and welding up a patch. I was never crazy about that and that was what sealed the deal for me as far as producing a guide. This will be my "off the shelf" solution for anyone who doesn't want to engineer their own. As of now 007 and 008 are sold. One is going to New Zealand and the other to Australia. Pretty excited about that for sure. I'll be gearing up for another run soon. Derek

I think maybe if there was a concerted effort from us to push people to hybridz from facebook questions via links it may get some new traffic through here. Something like this: What are you guys doing for dash repairs? http://dashboard site:forums.hybridz.org This is through google which in a round about way will get them there. Can we do this through the forum? The forum search function blows and always has. We are indirectly spoon feeding which I hate but if we don't take an active roll in increasing traffic then it will really become a problem. Just a thought. Derek

I'm on facebook because of the Datsunworks heads. As far as getting info it sucks. Things disappear quickly so other than answering a question that people are too lazy to search it's not good for data. Forums will always rule for good hard data but like newspapers people will miss them when they are gone and then it will be too late.

I'm happy we are at the point people are confusing which build is which.

Hi Jeff He shifts at 7K but has run it up to 8K a few times. It is still pulling strong at 8K an the tuner feels it would easily provide power to 9K. I'm not sure what trans is in it now but I'm pretty sure he has a CD009 for it. I talked to him today to check in and his comment was "it's scary fast" No paddle shifters. Diffrent build. That does have a CD009 but it's not running yet.

Wow that looks great. Are you running one of Ray Livingston's EDIS kits?

That second video captures the sound better than anything I've done. He used a Gopro 7 and although the video is washed out the audio is really good. It is the most accurate capture so far. I've been using my iphone and even with external microphones it never quite got the right sound.

I am in envy of your car. Or at the very least your engine compartment:)

Here is another one he sent me.

SN005 posted this on Church of L group on face book. He's happy:)

Shameless plug. EDIS Kit

I wonder if that was to increase runner length or packaging issues.

VCT phaser test.

Hi Duffy That is probably the longest the manifolds can be with the engine tilted that direction.

Realized I never posted this pic of SN005. The Ferrea rockers look amazing. Jenvey 48mm and a Megasquirt setup from Linfert Performance.

Thanks. Yea the S7 looks so nice. The 8620 looked great with the copper plating but not so great after spending time in hot oil. The best part about the S7 is it's through hardened so as long as there is enough base circle you can regrind it.

I'll do COP when my $200.00 Magnecor wires wear out. And then only if they look like plug wires:)

Making progress. Almost at the point where I can test the oil system. Front covers on. Internal lines finished. Externals as well. Getting closer! Hopefully Monday I can start testing the oil volume/pressures.

Thanks for the info. I ended up going .240" at the deepest section of the intake. There was .440" of meat in that area. The valves are angled at 15 degrees so the depth lessens very quickly. The problem I'm going to have is there isn't enough piston diameter at 87mm for there to be a decent amount of material. I imagine everyone that runs one of these heads will at least have 88MM or better bores and probably custom pistons.

Thanks. The zig zag lets you adjust the length of the line for final tweaking. That one was a little more pronounced than I would have liked but it's hidden so I left it. Even a single bend will give you some options.

Exterior hard lines finished. Got everything fabed up. Very happy with the results. I added a sandwich adapter in order to be able to get more oil for the VCT. The oil pressure port was fine for the cam oil feeds but I felt it would not keep up with the VCT. I moved everything over to the sandwich plate. The oil pressure switches are still on the oil pressure port. Rear oil feed. Hard lines are a ton of effort but for me well worth it.

Hi Tioga I may give that a try and see how it looks. I really like the wires in the front but then again I never tried them running towards the back. It's pretty crowded back there with the injection hard lines.

Looks like I will need to cut valve reliefs in my test motor for the KN20-VCT. The pistons are ITM RY6134-040 flat tops with no relief cut. I'm trying to find out how deep I can go before I compromise the integrity of the piston. ITM in California has no data. Thanks Derek

Thanks