Derek

Realized I never posted this pic of SN005. The Ferrea rockers look amazing. Jenvey 48mm and a Megasquirt setup from Linfert Performance.

Thanks. Yea the S7 looks so nice. The 8620 looked great with the copper plating but not so great after spending time in hot oil. The best part about the S7 is it's through hardened so as long as there is enough base circle you can regrind it.

I'll do COP when my $200.00 Magnecor wires wear out. And then only if they look like plug wires:)

Making progress. Almost at the point where I can test the oil system. Front covers on. Internal lines finished. Externals as well. Getting closer! Hopefully Monday I can start testing the oil volume/pressures.

Thanks for the info. I ended up going .240" at the deepest section of the intake. There was .440" of meat in that area. The valves are angled at 15 degrees so the depth lessens very quickly. The problem I'm going to have is there isn't enough piston diameter at 87mm for there to be a decent amount of material. I imagine everyone that runs one of these heads will at least have 88MM or better bores and probably custom pistons.

Thanks. The zig zag lets you adjust the length of the line for final tweaking. That one was a little more pronounced than I would have liked but it's hidden so I left it. Even a single bend will give you some options.

Exterior hard lines finished. Got everything fabed up. Very happy with the results. I added a sandwich adapter in order to be able to get more oil for the VCT. The oil pressure port was fine for the cam oil feeds but I felt it would not keep up with the VCT. I moved everything over to the sandwich plate. The oil pressure switches are still on the oil pressure port. Rear oil feed. Hard lines are a ton of effort but for me well worth it.

Hi Tioga I may give that a try and see how it looks. I really like the wires in the front but then again I never tried them running towards the back. It's pretty crowded back there with the injection hard lines.

Looks like I will need to cut valve reliefs in my test motor for the KN20-VCT. The pistons are ITM RY6134-040 flat tops with no relief cut. I'm trying to find out how deep I can go before I compromise the integrity of the piston. ITM in California has no data. Thanks Derek

Thanks

VCT Plumbing Got the hardlines mostly done for the intake phaser control. Went well just tedious and time consuming. The bottom two lines are advance and retard and the top two lines are returns. The center is the feed. They are 5/16 OD which gives me an ID that closely matches the Honda circuit. It started off easy and then I remembered that an alternator needed to sit in there. That made things a little more interesting. The bulkhead fittings worked out great. I chose to use soft aluminum tubing for the interior lines. I knew routing them was going to be a bitch and I wasn’t wrong. Looks a little rough but it will work. Non of the fittings are compressed yet. I’ll lock everything down during the final assembly and then tweak everything so they have clearance. Feeding through the caps turned out to be a better way to go than through the tower bases. I had to redesign the EDIS coil bracket since the valve was now in the way. It’s not as hidden as it used to be but when the throttle bodies and stacks are on it should be buried pretty well. I’m super glad I went this route with the VCT valve. The look of it is exactly what I wanted and he hard lines fit the whole theme of the build. Lots happening over the next few weeks as I try and finish it up and get it back in the car.

Wow that looks great. There is a lot going on in that engine bay.

I cut them in the mill. It's a bit of a pain when doing single pieces since it's not worth making a fixture. I hold the stock in a vice but the jaws need to be longer than the cut out or things get ugly when your doing the outline and the setup suddenly looses is grip on the material.

Did you sonic test It? Hopefully working on my stroker soon and trying to make some decisions. I was going to go for 89mm.

VCT bits and pieces. Trying to get all all the incidental parts done so that when I get my head back from Xtreme I can concentrate on the final push. I’m locating the VCT valve in a different position than I had originally planed. I was unable to plumb it the way I wanted and that forced me to look at other options. I always hated the idea of hanging the valve off of the front of the timing cover. The control circuit is a little longer but I’m willing to take a chance for the sake of better looks. Original 3D design: Finished product: It will hang below intake #1 and will be mostly out of sight. Made the CPS mount for the back of the valve cover. This required a pretty major rework of the fuel distribution block and a new mounting bracket. I got really lucky with the block in that I didn’t need to start from scratch. Tight fit! It only took two versions of the CPS plate and fuel block brackets and one version of the VCT valve bracket. I must be getting the hang of this:) Things should be picking up speed since the only thing holding me up is having the head back.

88mm bore L28 is 2.883L according to the OZDAT calculator. You would have to take it to 90MM to get to 3.0 and at that point the walls would probably be a little on the thin side.

Everything except for the castings can be made by a competent machinist. Because of that I wanted to make sure that people were not forced into buying stuff they won't use. Case in point, Rebello has his own timing chain setup that he want's to see if he can incorporate into the head. I sold him blank plates for the idler and the upper tensioner. They have a milling machine in house and will modify the plates accordingly. Les Collins Racing have their own idea of how it should be and so on. Robbie of Whitley Tune in New Zealand will at some point be offering cams. I don't see any of this as a problem since people like Robbie, Les and Dave bring so much to the table and truth be told they have all been giving me feedback during the process. Especially Robbie. He has been my main sounding board for all things camshaft and VCT. I'll still be offering cams but I have no problem with other people offering them as well.

Economy of scale but it would take a very large financial commitment by someone who is an enthusiast because no investor in their right mind would tie their money up in this. Plus a full redesign of the casting because it ins't designed to be made with traditional cores and the first thing that would need to go are the printed cores.

Ok read em and weep. There is still a lot of guess work since everything is setup to be a personal choice build. But these are some hard numbers for most everything in the picture above. Also just to point out the valve covers come raw aluminum and not powder coated. All prices USD Head, timing cover and valve cover machined. $7900.00 This is all you re required to buy from me everything else is individually priced. These are items I offer and will have available with the heads. Cam towers $1250.00 for the set. Semi finished S7 tool steel cam cores. $ 2000.00 for the pair. Cam tower bolts $45.00 Honda Cam tower shoulder bolts $40.00 Skunk Performance Cam bolts from Honda 14115-PNA-000 12.00 pair Cam washers from Honda 14113-PNA-003 14114-PNA-003 25.00 pair Honda rocker shafts modification. $100.00 plus shafts. Honda Shafts Currently $220.00 for 4. DCOE Intake manifolds $750.00 for the set. Front sub plates for timing gear idler and upper tensioner $250.00 Martin 06p triplex sprocket un-machined. Currently $125.00 shipped to me. Machine crank sprocket and shims $100.00 Cloyes 9-4180S Timing chain kit $188.00-$220.00 Cloyes 9-4007 chain for tall deck $20.00 Idler gear shoulder washer washer. $25.00 Idler gear shaft 13016-9E000 $42.47 Tensioner pivot bolt 13094-40F00 $4.58 Tension side guide rail bracket $35.00 Total $5245.00 depending on outside parts prices and options. Total including head $13,145 Cam lobe grind from Schneider Cams $250.00 each cam Optional from me. Valve cover breather and baffle $85.00 Oil Cap $65.00 Same thread as Nissan. Stuff not pictured. List of Honda valve train parts but no valves. Honda Part numbers for springs, seats retainers etc. These parts prices are from hondapartsnow.com and may a bit low since they are old. They are hit or miss though on their stock. If they can’t locate it quickly in their US inventory they will cancel the part. Another place I’ve been dealing with is hondapartsstore.com. They are a little more money but are a more traditional dealership type parts house. Valve Keeper 14781-PRB-A02 2.15 each *48 $103.20 Dished retainer - 14765-PRB-A01 2.65 each * 24 63.60 Rocker arms 14624-RAA-A00 24.34 * 12 292.08 Spring seat 14775-PCX-000 $2.29 each 55.00 These valve springs are recommended as a good choice for a lower performance type build. They are a lot cheaper than aftermarket brands but do your own homework on this. I will be using this combo on my build. Yellow outer spring - 14761-PCX-003 6.82 * 24 163.68 Red inner spring - 14752-PRB-A01 5.63* 24 135.12 I get my Ferrea stuff from realstreetperformance.com but you may have a better source. The head is sized to accept these guides: VG1062 Ferrea Intake Valve Guide STD VG1064 Ferrea Exhaust Valve Guides STD VS1002 Ferrea Exhaust Valve Seal VS1003 Ferrea Intake Valve Seal Head work needed to be done: Install and ream guides, Cut valve seat pockets and install seats. Valve job. Surface head. I'm trying to get a price nailed down from Bill at Extreme cylinder heads. He did SN005. but I would budget 2K including the seats. You still need headers and induction on top of that price so don't forget that. I had updated the pricing guess on my blog a while back from 12-14K to 14-16K. My thoughts are you better have 16-18K before it is all said and done. I really tried my best to make a reasonably priced DOHC head and realistically there really isn't a cheap way to do this in the quantities that we are talking about. Still cheaper than the other DOHC option though:) Derek

It has been quite the journey for sure. Finalizing my end of the pricing for the next four heads. Should have it tomorrow or Saturday.

Introducing the Empty Your Bank Account starter pack:)

I was happy with the layout so I went ahead and made the parts. This is what I settled on. A sub plate for the idler and a sub plate for the pivot guide and tensioner. Then a spacer plate to bring the tensioner into the correct position. I drilled the top gears so that they have 2.5 degrees adjustment and the cams are doweled to break that into 1.25 degree increments. Bottom gear is new. It is a triplex 06P sprocket from Martin Sprocket with the teeth case hardened. I then bored, reamed and honed it out to 35mm. Before and after. The idea is that the inner and outer sprockets will provide strength to the middle driving set. This is way better than what I was running on the prototype. There is 3.5mm of adjustment front to rear via shim packs. This will make setting up the chains a lot easier. Came together just fine.

Hi Nigel Unfortunately I took everything apart already so I can't get any pictures. The entire chain setup is stock Nissan KA24 stuff and for the most part the spacing on my head is designed to match that. The middle idler gear is all one piece. I know that's not much info but it' the best I have at this point:)

And yet another timing chain mockup series. I'm convinced when they design a motor the first thing they do is the timing chain. Talk about restrictive. SN005 is building a tall deck motor so I needed to work out what we were doing on the timing chain. I was hoping that my normal KA setup would work with a redesigned pivot for the tensioner arm. Actually worked out better than the normal setup. It looks like the extra height on the head will allow the arm to clear the timing cover without modifying the cover. It uses all the stuff from a KA24 timing chain kit except the bottom chain needs to be a 94 link instead of the 92. I was trying to get the arm closer to the tensioner but this is the best I'm going to get. Each full link you add or subtract shortens or lengthens the chain by 5/8” so the adjustment is pretty coarse. The guides are stock out of the box Nissan KA24. The jumper brackets on the tension side are temporary. I’ll design something a little better. I'm happy with the angle on the top tensioner. The upper brackets should start to become a standard item at this point. I changed the way the cam cores are being produced. I'm bringing the cams to length after heat treating and then shipping them to Schnieder for OD turning. This is giving me a lot more control. I know it probably seems like this project has stalled but far from it. I just decided to concentrate on getting my build, V2 and SN005 finished off. I realized after selling 005 that there are still a lot of little details to work out and I don't have enough free time to do my regular work and support any more builds. The next three heads will go a lot smoother now that I have all of this worked out. Derek

Hi I have the kits available. They are $220.00 plus shipping. Here is a link to my web page that has all the details. EDIS Kit Thanks Derek