Derek

I'm no transmission expert by any means but I do play one on TV. As NewZed said the OP needs to define his goals. There are 4 options that I know of that would be considered better than stock. The 240sx 5 speed with modified bell housing. The problem with this conversion is replacement parts are getting harder and harder to come by. There have been some tolerance issues with some of the aftermarket parts as well. I hated the gear ratio spread. One of the T5 options or a variant of them. I don't have any opinion on those other than they are fairly noisy and they only go to five:) CD00A 6 speed with one of my conversion bell housings. The CD is a proven transmission and will take a ton of power. It is available brand new from Nissan for a very reasonable price. The biggest downside is you have to cut the existing mounts from the tunnel and for a lot of people that is a no-go. There also can be significant input shaft clatter with the clutch out and in neutral. The biggest upside for me is it goes to 6 and Madkaw's only goes to 5. Seriously though for me it was all about the gear spread. 5th is 1;1. Think about it this way. My old knees would rather climb a ladder in 6 steps vs 5. The gear spread just seems to work really well for my style of street driving which is 0-50 as fast as I can. With the 4 speed I felt like I had to kill it in every gear to get any kind of acceleration. Now it is a much smoother proposition. The Aisin TL70 6 speed which I'm currently developing a conversion bell housing for. It can't take the power that the CD00A can but it will fit the tunnel without any modifications. It is very plentiful on the used market since BRZ owners like to wreck their cars a lot as well as brand new from Subaru. The gear ratios are pretty close to the CD00A. There is no definitive data on how much power it will take but from what I have read and some data from one of Godzillas customers I felt it could handle 375 to the wheels. I may be a little optimistic on that number but so much of the stress on a drivetrain comes from driving style and tire grip. I personally feel this transmission conversion will be a good choice for a lot of normally aspirated cars. I'll know a lot more when I get the first one in my car to play with. If you opt for a used transmission it is probably going to be one of the cheaper options. I paid like $425.00 delivered to my door for a 2016 with less than 50K on it.

Yes that is correct. The foundry is a little backed up at the moment but they are trying to work me in. Problem is Covidmas has pretty much thrown everyones time line out of whack.

So the first ten bell housings have been sold and shipped to Godzilla Raceworks who is a dealer on these. Those ten are all sold. He offers the bell housings as well as the rest of the stuff needed for the conversion. I sell the bell housings direct but I don't stock nor get involved with the rest of the stuff. The bell housing and modified front cover is $1110.00 plus shipping. It comes with all the necessary bolts. You will need to source a shifter, crossmember and driveshaft. If you have a brand new takeoff front cover from a CDXXX I will accept that as a core and credit $135.00. I do not accept used covers as a core. I have an order placed at the foundry for ten more bell housings and if you want to preorder you can contact Godzilla. I don't do preorders since I don't want to be bothered:). I've finally attained cranky old man status and I'm loving it. I'm also in development on adapting the Aisin TL70 6 speed out of the BRZ. It's basically going to be the same setup as the CD009 conversion wise. The biggest difference is you don't have to cut up the tunnel for it to fit but it won't take nearly the abuse that the CD009 will. Here is a shot of the mockup as it currently sits. I'm pretty certain this is a workable solution for people that have lower HP builds but want the ratios a 6 speed affords. As soon as I get the next ten CD009 bell housings done I'm going to jump on this.

What it takes to get there is not going to answered here most likely because it is a list that is long. The absolute best advice I would give you is to contact Datsunspirit. Pay the price they quote and you will get what you want. It will be expensive. Plus they work directly with Jenvey. This is going to sound harsh but it is reality. If you are asking here then you probably don't have the skill set ( I don't) to actually leverage the different opinions that may be presented and actually build this type of motor. Getting to 9K reliably is a really heavy lift in my opinion. Getting to 7000 is easy. That that extra 2000 is where the real talent comes in. I'm going to rephrase your question for you: Question for those that have motors that go to 9000 RPM's. What did it cost:)

And now I hate you:)

This is pretty standard in my experience for all suppliers during Covid. None of the Z car parts places are fully stocked. I have the same issues with non car related suppliers as well. Except of course Mc Master Carr. They are a national treasure:)

I saw that after I posted and yes shipping is stupid. like $40.00 USD or more. The 280 is a very tricky design. Here are some of the different attempts we made trying to get the fit right.

Just save yourself some time and buy a set of mine:) $110.00 plus shipping.

Correct. the 45 ACP bore laser is 12MM OD.

Yea that's why I made the slip adapter. The other methods with a magnet didn't seem to be accurate.

Motor tilting back/down. Pinion flange pointing up. Technically that means the pinion shaft is tilting down according to the literature I read.

So I made a laser alignment tool based on a few Ideas I gleaned from the forum. I made a slip collar that fits over the CD009 output shaft that holds a 45ACP laser bore setter. I'm using this for the horizontal alignment. Works well. I made a target that has a couple of alignment lines. The bottom is parallel/perpendicular to those lines so you can use a level to get it plumb. I then proceeded to drill so many holes in it that it's almost useless:) The key word here is almost. That was a far over to centerline as I could get it. I need to rework either the Diff mount or the trans mount to get it any further but it's only about a half a degree so I may live with it. I'm running the Technoversions RT mount and I switched to the top mount instead of the stock bottom. This brought the pinion angle down to 2.8 degrees. The transmission is at 2.9 degrees so I'm pretty satisfied. Hard to tell if it made much of a difference but the math says it should.

I bought both off of ebay. The 3.9 was supposedly out of a 2004 with under 36K miles. It has a noticeable whine at 50 which leads me to believe that under 36K was wrong. The 3.54 was out of a 2019 with 19K and it looks like it. I was learning to live with the 3.9 but then the 6 speed made me want a 3.54. Buying a used rear end is a crap shoot.

I'm leaning that direction as well. I have a block that will work at 89 but it's on the edge. I already have enough to worry about:)

If it's any consolation I'm envious of the 3.2. Things keep getting in the way. Although the crank is done so that is a pretty big part of it.

I'm doing exactly the same bottom end and after hearing that now I really need to move it along. Sounds great. You know a KN20 head would solve that pesky power drop off problem:)

Preaching to the choir Thank goodness for a twin post lift and an air conditioned shop. Nor do I. I based all my calculations on 75mph cruise speeds. I then drove the car at the revs that the calculator listed for the different ratios to get a feel for it. The 3.79 first gear gives some options as far as final drive choice in my opinion. Yea the CD009 isn't exactly known as a silent gear box by any stretch. My main complaint is in neutral clutch out the input shaft noise is a little bothersome.

In the video I'm running a 3.9. It pulls out of the hole really well even with my low HP build. The problem for me was on the highway it was taching too high for my comfort. The motor is pretty quiet down below 2800 or so and at 75 mph it was a little loud for me. I pulled the 3.9 and put the 3.364 back in. As expected the highway RPM's came way down but out of the hole was lacking. If I had my 3.2 built It probably would be fine. I just bought a Subie 3.54 LSD and I think (hope) that it will be my forever differential. I use this drive train calculator to play around with and it really helps. It's for 4WD so ignore the transfer case section:) It's nice because it has two columns and you can easily compare between different combinations. http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html Instructions: http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears_instructions.html CD009 Ratios: 1st 3.79 2nd 2.32 3rd 1.62 4th 1.27 5th 1.0 6th .79

Now you tell me:) So I ended up buying a brand new input shaft and bearing for testing and it's worked out really well so far. Chris from Godzilla has done some test fitting with the bell housing I sent him and I have the data I need to make the final tweeks to the pattern. I'm doing that tomorrow and hopefully will have the patterns back down to the foundry next week so I can get in line. I'm ordering 10 for the first go round. Chris is handling pre orders and keeping track of who wants one so if you want one I would contact him. I will be selling them directly as well but I'm encouraging people to deal with Godzilla since I have my hands full.

I was doing the installation instructions for the CD009/L6 bell housing. I started on the cross member section and that is when I researched drive line angles. As soon as I walked over to the car an looked at the pinion flange I realized that it was a lot more than 3 degrees. I'm going to bring it down to match the engine and see how it goes.

Agreed. I think the more critical number is that the output shaft of the transmission and the input shaft of the diff are the same or nearly so. The video shows pretty clearly how an elliptical movement can be generated by miss matched angles. The Tremec app measures the output shaft angle, the drive shaft angle and the pinion angle and then gives you a report if they are within specs.

I think the laser is appropriate for horizontal alignment. but an inclinometer is a much better choice for vertical. The 5 degrees I measured was with my Subbie 3.9 diff installed. I have since put my stock diff back in to test out how the 3.364 ratio plays with the CD009 but like an idiot I didn't check the pinion angle. I'll be pulling the drive shaft again soon and I'll check the angle again and see what I get.

The Tremec app works really well. And it's free:) I exchanged a PM with Madkaw over on classicz because I saw a post he made on it. He said he measured his and it was 2 degrees so the plot thickens. Everything I read says no more than 3 degrees. I'm going to double check my measurement and see what gives. Here is a video showing the importance of having the same angles on the transmission and pinion.

I saw those and may make one at some point to check horizontal alignment. Tremec makes a pretty good app for taking measurements with your phone and it does the math for you. The 5 degree pinion angle is so far out that until I get some clarification on that I'm not going to change anything. It seems they had to have had a reason for designing it with 5 degrees tilt . I wonder if it was trying to correct a vibration problem. My 73 has the stack of steel plates under the diff X member so there was for sure some sort of issue.

Actually I was already thinking what I would do if I wanted to rework the cross member. That looks like a practical solution for sure. I think the stock angle on the motor was right around 3 degrees. When I was working on the 6 speed install I kept looking at the pinion angle and thought it was odd. There is a fair amount of data out there on the principles but my understanding is no more than 3 degrees on either angle and no more than 1 degree difference between them. There is more to it than that but that's the general gist. The 5 degree pinion angle is way out. I have heard of dropping the pinion flange so that under hard pulls it lifts into position but it's 2 degrees out of spec even before torque is applied.