Derek

This part from the instructions got my attention. That is exactly the issue I'm having. The slightest movement on the sender makes the gauge swing. This is also interesting as well. I have a lot of electrical items and I'm sure the voltage swings quite a bit depending on conditions. Not sure if this bothers Speed Hut gauges.

Just a heads up. Techo versions the company that offers the Ron Tyler mount also offers/makes the meter match. The more I read about it the more I think that is probably what we are looking for.

I did as well so I put in a brand new sender. I think it made it worse:) That would be great. I'm going to check the connections to the sender this morning and make sure nothing is loose.

Just got back from a drive and the gauge was swinging form 3/4 to empty at what seemed to be random intervals. I got nervous and fueled up and it only took 4 gallons. I read somewhere that the the voltage to the gauge can effect the reading but not sure if that is valid. Any thoughts on this unit? https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=473/category_id=167/mode=prod/prd473.htm Pricy but if it will solve my problems then I'm willing to go that direction. They also have this: https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=748/category_id=167/mode=prod/prd748.htm That is probably a very accurate assessment

I think when it comes to safety and when using a mis mash of parts documentation is important. If they are two ways for an item to be mounted but only one works then that requires documentation.

After the hassle I had with the kit from Zcar depot's Ebrake function I wouldn't buy it without detailed instructions and pictures of it installed. So much of this stuff is not much more than a collection of parts that require a lot more work on the users end than they let on to. To sell a brake kit without detailed downloadable instructions is almost criminal in my mind.

The gauges themselves are great as far as I'm concerned and I would search specifically for this ohm problem with any other set you look at.

+1 for this. I'm currently in therapy because of range anxiety. Looks like I have half a tank, great, looks down again, Empty???

Great job. You are right it looks like it was originally that way.

Mine is the one in the speedo. There is an old post by KTM where he had the same issues and I'm almost positive that is the stand alone gauge.

Mine is the same. It wings wildly when it gets to about half tank. I'm not an electrical guru but I imagine the ohm range on the Nissan sender is too narrow so a little movement on the arm results in a lot of action on the gauge. I have a brand new sender and it's no better than the original one.

Has anyone figured out how to get their fuel gauge to read properly?

Looks great. Right before I did my twin cam head I was looking into getting another Z and making it electric. Unfortunately the double whammy of the price of Z cars going through the roof and the cost of developing a cylinder head blew that dream out of the water. I'll live vicariously through your build:) I think we need to think of ourselves as "propulsion heads" rather than "petrol heads" at some point since electric propulsion isn't going away. And that instant torque is pretty appealing. Thanks for posting. Derek

I have the 3.9 in mine with Datsunrestomods axles. I have driven it with both the stock 4 speed and the FS5W71C from Godzilla Raceworks. My build is not kicking a ton of HP since it is 2.818L and the CR is only around 9.5:1. There is a noticeable difference between first and second gear between the two. The 4 speed has a much better snap to it and is a lot more fun to drive. The FS5W71C is way better on the highway. I have a 3.2L that I'm slowly getting together and feel that the extra HP and torque will more than makeup for the lack of gearing. Ultimately after doing a ton of calculating with ratio calculators the CD009 with the 3.9 would be the best choice for my style of driving. That is a hill that is too high a climb for me at the moment. My gut feeling is if most of your driving is around town I would go with the 3.9. Beware that used Subaru r180's can be a crap shoot. I bought mine from a reputable seller on ebay that supposedly had 36K miles on it and it howls at 50mph. And unfortunately 50 is my in town cruise speed so it's pretty crappy. They are getting really popular and the prices are no longer what I would consider cheap. If I had to do it again I'm not sure that would be the direction I would go. I paid someone who has done quite a few Datsun R180 diffs to try and get the wipe pattern dialed in and the Suretrac carrier gave him a ton of trouble trying to get it out of the diff housing. The long and the short of it is I'm at $1200.00 for a diff that is noisy so make sure you choose wisely. When they were $350.00 it was worth taking a chance. At $700-900 not so much.

Possibly. I'm going to try shortening the cable first since I have the equipment. I may end up designing and fabbing new cable holder brackets at some point. I have 15" wheels so that limited my kit choices a little bit.

So I ended up re cabling my old set. I think some of the problem is with the brackets they sell you end up using a lot of the effective travel of the mechanism by the time you get all the slack out. I ended up making the cables a little too long and I'm still using up too much adjustment. It's better but there is no way the brake would slow and stop the car in any kind of emergency. Maybe with every bit of the throw available it would but I'm still not sure. I think the travel on the caliper lever is longer than the available travel on the lever.

I could hear the relief and excitement in your voice. My prototype head fired right off and it is quite the shock. I almost didn't know what to do next because I wasn't expecting it. Great work. And it sounds really good. You must be one happy camper.

So that valve has an adjustable bleed? Is that what I'm looking at?

Yikes. Is the Ford a PWM controlled like the Bosch?

In theory the butterfly's should be closed at idle and all of your idle air controlled by the valve. 6 butterflies slightly cracked is not a dependable metering method for the air. It can also build up gunk over time but I doubt that will ever be a problem with Mr " I can eat of my motor because it's so clean" Yes I'm jealous .

Wow I missed this post. Great work Tioga. Very clean.

Then what about the other three I'm going to take my old set and re-cable them. I'll feel safer at this point with that solution.

Well isn't this just the icing on the cake. Worked my ass off all day to get the car back on the road. Backed it out of the shop for a test drive, puled up on the parking brake I feel tension then POP no more brake. Back up on the lift and this is what greets me. Blew the crimp end completely apart. Since the amount of pull is dictated by the factory E-brake system there is no way in hell his should have broken. What a disappointment. I don't know if Zcar Depot makes these or not but this is a bit alarming to say the least.

Too late Kind of ugly but it will work. Took the supplied U piece of metal and stepped it out .375". This moved the cable end far enough away from the caliper to get full travel on the cable before the clevis bottomed out. Really should have been .4375 or .5" but it works. I ended up using up a lot of the adjustment in the E-brake system. The U piece is 3mm thick which allows the use of the factory clip. I made .5" thick spacer blocks to improve the angle of attack on the caliper lever. This completely solved that issue. Other than this everything else wen't pretty smoothly. I would not recommend this kit though until they correct this issue and develop better instructions. Based on my experience with this "kit" I've decided to offer the KN20 head in kit form. Here is the first one ready to sell.

So I bought a Rear disk kit from Zcar depot. No instructions of course because that would make it all too easy. They have a video that is pretty close to worthless . Brake install If you want a laugh while you are in quarantine watch it and see if you can figure out the E-brake. I also purchased one of their replacement E-brake cables. So here is my question for anyone who has done this. How did you get the E-brake cables to work. The E-brake brackets leave a lot to be desired. The bracket material is too thick to use the original clip system to retain the cable housing so it basically flops around. They supply 2 U clips but since there is no groove exposed it won't work. But that doesn't matter because they aren't designed for clipping. I called them and the person told me that the bracket is basically universal and they supply the U clip to weld on the bracket. Now not only was I not aware of that since there were no instructions it still will leave the cable sheath flopping around in the bracket. Plus at that point the cables were already in the car and although I have a TIG welder that mod will be my last choice. The angle of attack on the bracket is not really proper for the motion and after rigging it up with my best guess, because you know no instructions, There does not seem to be enough travel between the clevis and the sheath to allow full actuation of the brake. I bought this kit because I didn't want to do the engineering on something I was not going to produce and sell and now it looks like I have to do the engineering after all. Now it's very possible that I am fully missing the concept of how this should go together but so far I'm at a loss. Thanks Derek