Pop N Wood

If you make them yourself maybe. I don't know of anyone running long tubes on an LS1. At least I have never seen a post saying so.

This post should be hyperlinked into the FAQ thread.

The noise will vary depending upon the condtion of your diff. Some have had worse experiences than others The bigger problem is they will cause your front crossmember to crack and ultimately destroy itself. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=108276 There are other threads where people have posted pictures of the destruction caused to their rear suspensions when the cracked cross member fails. Not pretty.

In my opinion it was probably a marketing thing. "Four on the floor" was a big sales slogan back then. 5 speeds were only in those "foreign" cars, and who back then trusted those? Other than that who knows. The 4 speeds were even slower than the 5's.

The comments are good too. One guy asked if the sell fake ABS lights.

I have had a century welder for 7 or 8 years now. Never had a problem with it. People get a little too hung up on name brands some time. The only problem I see with that machine is he doesn't give you much info on it. If he at least gave you a model number you could look up what capabilities it might have and how old it might be. Talk him down to $400 and go for it. It must have a good feed mechanism if it welds aluminum. It sure has a lot of knobs.

It is sort of a poorly worded sentence but I think he was trying to say the running gear is factory with the exception of the 5 speed trans. At least that is one way to read it. How cool would that be, serial #383 with 383 stroker motor? That car is a long way from being original. The body kit pieces could easily be removed. But there are a number of interior changes, like the center console has been changed and the guages are all white faced. A resotration would propbably be prohibitively expensive. Perfect Hybrid material.

I would like to know again myself. What I remember reading is a spare from a certain year of Maxima works.

Why isn't this post in the vendor's forums?

The JTR adapters bolt to the diff. why would you weld it to a shaft? FWIW I bought one of the adapters and plan to have an aluminum shaft made to match the 1310 joint on the end

I don't know if it will fail, but I would worry about it throwing the belt if it flatens the ribs.

Blue Velvet Eraserhead Kalifornia Nanook of the North

Jesus, man. When does that happen?

Werd IMO that will be cheaper than doing a rust rebuild..

Looks really good in there. What are you going to do about the hood? Also I have *heard* the truck oil pans (I assume it is a truck motor) are too deep. Did you change that out?

There is a big difference between California and Delaware. They can make the car a handful to park also.

That's all good info. thanks for posting.

I wouldn't want to deal with that. If you have that much rust visible just think how much more you will find as you start cutting. Just make sure you know what you are getting into before you start

That Porter Cable should do everything a guy in a home shop could want. 30 amps at 240V. That is a big mofo. Maybe you won't be sandblasting aircraft carriers with it but it would sure do me proud. I have a rated 5 HP unit wired to a 20 amp 240V outlet (so it can't be a true 5 HP continusous). It will run continuously with continued grinder usage, but I have never had to stop to wait for it. And I am a little suprised about Grumpy using PVC in his air supply. Check out the OSHA web site about using PVC for compressed gasses. I don't feel so inadequate about my low buck shop crane anymore.

Yeah, it bolts in. There is a list of required parts in the following link http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=116207 Nissan changed the tranmission mounting ears somewhere along the way. Don't worry about it. For the T56 to fit you will most likely have to cut them away and maybe hammer out the tunnel for a bit more clearance. Nothing to fret about.

You could have saved some money dealing with this place http://www.pstds.com/

Hardware stores suck for fasteners anyway. Try on line retailers like Mcmaster Carr. The shipping costs will be less than gas for two 35 minute drives

You have to replace the innards of the tach. Might want to switch from an ampmeter to a voltmeter. Plus you really should relocate the rear diff if it is one of the early cars with the foward mounted diff. Upgrade to an R200 in the process. That means new mustache bar, new rear crossmember and flip the front diff mount. You will already be replacing the driveshaft. The series one cars have the fuel lines routed through the tunnel. Not sure if the later cars changed that.

Good lord. I would have a coronary if I jumped in the middle of that thread.

The picture was obviously taken in an emergency/hospital room. Maybe the nurses cleaned everything up waiting for the doctor to come in and remove it.