Pop N Wood

Yeah, you're right. I was thinking high CO. But a vacuum leak is still a possible cause. Any way you look at it just basic tune up diligence should fix the issue.

You need the high pressure pump to feed the fuel injection.

I have know people who drove carb'd dual fuel pick up trucks as their daily driver. The system had a manual dashboard switch to select between a standard gas carb OR the the CNG. I am not sure where you get the "half the cost of petrol" from. I would have to see some numbers before I believe that one. And the fuel at home things are still pretty experimental and pretty damn expensive. I think I read somewhere the Honda system was in the neighborhood of $6000. Aftermarket ECU's could work, but you need a different stoic metric ratio with CNG than the 14.7:1 needed with gas. Do a google search on flex fuel vehicles to get the proper mixture.

High HC can mean it is running too lean. When I had to smog test my 70 I found the tune that returned the lowest emmissions was also the tune that made it run the best. If your car is in reasonably good shape you shouldn't have any problem passing smog. The requirements on these old cars isn't that tough. Whatever you do save the reciepts for the parts you put on. There is a dollar limit on what you have to spend before they give you an exemption. My guess is the price of the carbs will be enough to give you the expemption. But I wouldn't give up there. If your car is relatively stock and isn't passing smog then it isn't running right. You inability to idle suggests a vacuum leak to me. As bad as it sounds you might have a disconnected or broken vacuum hose. That could also be causing the high emmisions.

You know that guy is understandably proud of his vapor tank surge tank, but IMO the less fuel in the passanger's compartment the better.

That part looks like it gave plenty of warning it was failing. Can't help but feel if you had been an advocate of JohnC's monthly race car inspections you would have found it before it went. I guess if you want to run with the big boys you have to play like them. Good to know what the failure point is.

That is what JohnC recommended in previous posts on this topic.

Have you considered the 90-10 copper nickle stuff? Easy to work with, cheaper than stainless and suppose to last forever. And you can use the standard brass flare fittings. many people have complained that stainless is a bitch to work with. Buy a good quality flaring tool and use a hacksaw to cut, not tubing cutter, to avoid work hardening the stainless. BTW, $225 for custom bent stainless doesn't sound like a bad price. Too bad I want to reroute my brakelines along my new engine cross member.

No

I plan to replace my ampmeter with a voltmeter in the near future. The voltmeter tells you a whole lot more and you don't have to worry about having the full amp load coursing through your dash. I do get nostalgic for the bouncy ampmeter though.

Damn. Is my sister back at it again!

http://www.zbarn.com/

I have read several posts comnplaining about Holley electric fuel pumps. I have read nothing but positive posts about the Mallory ones.

That looks a lot like what I am doing with my LS motor. I did double up the frame rail by overlaying an L shaped piece of 18 guage sheet and welding it along the rail. Cut slots in the sheet so it wasn't just welded along the edges. If you put in a piece about a foot to foot and a half long then weld that on top it will really spread the load out and prevent stress points in the stock rails at the edges of your mount.

This site has detailed T56 dimensions http://www.5speedtransmissions.com/6_speed.html

Can I get Yokohama's instead of the Faulkens?

To die in the roar of a gasoline apotheosis. Truly a Man's death. I'm thinking Kevlar. Shrapnel resistance without all the weight.

Bummer. At least the damage was minimal. Could have lost the whole wheel going into third. Sounds like you are a good candidate for posting in this thread http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=122470

If that had been a v8Z you would have had to count your legs! Unbelievable.

A very good one.

House fuses are determined by the size of the wire feeding the circuit. You can easily find tables listing what size fuse to use with what guage of wire. IMO you should do the same thing with car wiring. But keep in mind that fuses are sized to protect the wiring and not whatever is connected to it. If you have a sensitive piece of electronics, then you need to either size the wire to that part accordingly or include a separate in line fuse right at the part. Stereos and other such electronics are such part.

Just get the same lines you use on a stock Z. MSA or Black Dragon Auto are just a few of the places that carry them. If you want to source your own from Earls or Russel, then all of the Z brake fittings are M10x1 metric For pad try a quick search. I think I got KVR pads with my 4x4 set up.

Safety laws made everything heavier. Not much way around that. There isn't much in the way of lightweight cars with oversized motors, that is true. But engines today are much more potent then the muscle car era. Suspensions and aerodynamics are also a step above the 70's. I feel there is a renewed emphasis on sports cars and high performanc motors these days. It could be argued that this generation of vette is the best Cheby has ever built. There are more and more manufactures coming out with 2 seat sports cars. They are just in such expensive vehicles that it puts them out of the price range of the average hobbist. And since the only people who can afford most of these machines are older, it only stands to reason they go away from the raw performance car and add comforts.

My birthday is coming up. Think I might forward a Jegs link to an LM1 to little woman.

Don't know if I agree with that one. Think specific heat capacity. Not much beats pure water. And I agree with BLKMGK. You would need a pretty big AC unit to keep up with a sizeable engine running at any power level for an extended period of time. You might get one to work for a drag car, but then you could save a lot of weight and engine drag using ice instead. I don't know if I agree with the turbo lag agrument. Maybe the kick in lag isn't there, but it has to affect throttle response. Sometimes coming off the throttle is as important as how fast power comes on.