Pop N Wood

I used to autoX against a bugeyed sprite with a turbo rotary motor. Absolutely phenomenal car. I once watched him do a complete 360 on an autoX track without hitting a cone. He still beat my time.

Been half a dozen threads on these guys in the past few months. I did a bunch of low intensity internet research when those threads were first circulating. Discoved this Aquygen stuff is a reincarnation of something called Browns Gas from the 80's. Apparently that iteration ended badly for a lot of people. http://www.phact.org/e/bgas.htm Since this is nothing new, my guess is it won't amount to a whole lot. But I have been wrong before.

Yeah. Still with her 15 years later. Some times more a matter of timing than anything else.

Yeah, I've heard that. But they also claim to have redesigned everything in 2004 including the shift forks and shifter. Time will tell I guess.

Do I hear 30%? Anyone got a 30% off coupon?

MSD and Edlebrock make one specifically for this engine http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?lang=-1&catalogId=10002&storeId=10001&categoryId=28917 Should be pretty sweet. Has a built in rev limiter, nitros retard, MAP sensor connector and can have the spark curves adjusted through plug in modules or a lap top (using free software) GM also makes a distributor drive that replaces the front timing cover, and retro valve covers for that first gen SBC look. http://www.paceparts.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=180629 I prefer the coil pacs and MSD controller.

Holy Frejolies!!

I think he just said he has a ZX booster on his 260. Sounds like it will work fine.

Thanks. Time frame is whenever I can get it done. Unibody is going to have some issues. The original plan is to get it driving and do the chassis bracing as part of a restoration next year (or next). But looking at this thing, may have to move that one up. I am telling you, this thing is one pretty hunk of metal. I want to make a coffee table out of it.

Ordered the motor on Monday the 3rd of July, picked it up at the local Chevy dealer today, Thursday the 6th. FedEx is delivering the TKO and bellhousing tomorrow, and the JTR headers and radiator should show up Monday. Hot damn, this thing is too pretty to install in a car. Now to figure out what all the plug in connectors and hoses nipples are for. Funny how they can sell such an expensive engine and the only documentation they send with it is the manifold torquing sequence (in 5 or 6 languages no less). Look what was waiting for me when I got home from work Some assembly required: I ordered this with a Keisler modified HTOB. Looks like they ground the ears off an OEM unit to make it fit. They even shaved off half the hydraulic fitting hole. Uses a single line to the bearing, and needs a bleed valve outside they housing. They claim it bleeds fine this way. Let's hope so.

That Z world shop has been there since I lived in South Redondo back in the late 80's. I never stoped in there. Just looked like a garage to me. A couple of blocks down there is an excellent cigar store though....

Do you really want to get into that discusssion?

I cannot begin to count the number of times I have seen this problem caused by dirty battery posts. "Looks clean" doesn't count. First order of business with any electrical problem is to ALWAYS take a wire brush to the posts. People have a hard time following this advice and always want to start replacing items. The click you hear is most likely the solenoid energizing as it should. This causes current to flow to the starter causing a huge voltage drop at any high resistance point in the lines. This lowered voltage prevents the solenoid from fully forcing the contact disk into the solenoid lugs causing a further voltage drop to starter motor. The starter is just not getting enough juice to torque over the motor. An absolutely foolproof way to check the solenoid is to jumper a screwdriver across the big lugs on the solenoid. If the starter doesn't turn over, the solenoid is not the problem. From there it is most likely the battery posts or the battery itself. Maybe hard to get a screwdriver into the solenoid with a V8 but this test works. With all the "high tech" people like to think are in their cars, this issue hasn't changed since the 50's.

Instant Grits? Man, grump, I would hate to go hunting with you.

My brother had a POS Mitsubishi wagon that happened to. The head was notorious for getting a leaky head gasket. Coolant would seep into the combustion chamber and swiss cheese the inside of the head. The problem was so common with this type of car that as we walked into the salavage yard with the bad head the guy behind the counter, from across the room, shouted out "Got a Mitsubishi head, huh?" I always figured it was some type of steam explosion that pitted the aluminum. I would think if the water was atomized finely enough that this wouldn't happen.

You need to be careful. I take it your compressor is 220V. In this case, chances are, the black and white wire on the compressor will connect to the black and red house wires. What I am uncertain about is whether your green compressor wire should hook up to the green or white house wire. It will make a huge difference, since doing it wrong could tie your ground and neutral wires together at a point away from the main breaker box. Check through some of the old threads on this topic and PM the guys who said they were electricians.

Have you priced 240 bumpers lately? Pete Paraska cut down a set of stock 240 rear bumpers so they don't wrap around the body. He also added a bar inside the stock units to strengthen them. Didn't he also get rear ended following all that?

Thanks If I had bought a used engine with a working FI I never would have considered pulling it off for a carb. FI is definitely better in most respects. As for complexity, being an electrical engineer who designs and builds programmable radars I think I could have learned how to program the FI more easily than what I am going to have to learn to set up this beast. Can anyone recommend any good carb power tuning books? But with a crate motor the carb makes a lot of sense. When starting from nothing the FI adds a lot of cost. Plus I don't have any smog restrictions. Little worried about mileage but probably not enough to keep my foot out of it. This set up is a little more true to the original car. I even plan to reuse the stock choke cable and lever. I mean compare the picture of PrOxLaMuS© engine bay sans engine with my 240 after pulling the motor The 240 had less than a dozen wires going to the entire engine, and that is only because the mechanical voltage regular is mounted on the fender. I don't mind losing the distributor though. The spark box can be programmed with plug in modules or via a serial port, so there is some "high tech" potential involved there. I should scan and post the torque curves from the GM performance parts catalog of the carbed motor compared to the FI LS2 and even the LS6 crate motors. All three have the exact same cam specs and I believe heads, but the carbed version is out pulling the FI variants at all RPM's plotted. This (currently) is one of the more powerful small block crate motors GM sells. I just ordered everything over the last few days, so will take pics as the stuff comes in. With two relatively young kids, a house and full time job this swap is going to progress in bits and pieces. Will probably spend a good portion of the football season watching games, and fabricating. Of course my good friend Jim Beam will be there to help me 80496 Holley huh? really think this 6 liter can make use of 950 CFM? I might cam it in the future, but still seems like a lot of carb. Plus I am a little nervous putting a carb with no choke at all on a street car. How well does something like that start in say 40 degree weather? Would like to get 6-8 months a year use out of this thing.