silver280zx

they take the center weights off, and balance it, then put them back on. Mine was so out of balance that it wouls ling the wieghts to one side and it sounded awful, its all better now. But i guess it was more out of balance than the wieghts could fix., but they added and took away metal from areas of the plate.

I did the same clutch, accept i didnt have the problem with it disengageing right on the floor. Its a great clutch, but make sure you take it to a machine shop and have it balanced before you put it on, those pressure plates arent balenced well out of the box. Mine used to have the vibration issue.

So after playing around with the throttle body and vaccum diagrams, I still am not sure what to do. On other cars, i dont see a secondary vaccum line going from a t at the brake booster hose to the T at the distributer. In the diagram, it shows the carbon canister, the vaccum advance, and the throttle chamber nipple the only ones t'ed together. Does anyone just have a picture of their stock setup at the throttle chamber?

Go with Suspension techniques springs, and tokico illumina struts. It will drop you about an inch, it stiffens the car up alot, well worth the money. I have had none of the problems listed. But WARNING, DO NOT BUY KYB STRUTS!!! The seals get soft really fast, for your sake do not buy kyb's, they are great out of the box, then once you break them in, they suck!!!

So i looked at the diagrams and traced both lines, 24 and 25 and they went to where they were supposed to go accept for 24 which went from the carbon cannister to a T and went to the distributer and to a vaccum line on the brake booster. Is the vaccum line on the brake booster supposed to connect to the nipple on the throttlebody?

The only one i am really wondering about is the one i circled, and yes it is a US model, but the weird thing is that its a Jaunuary 79 model, and i have encountered differences in wireing, so vaccum lines i could see being different as well. thanks -Tyler-

Mine did that a while back, and i found it to be the ignition module. I have a january 79 model, so i dont know if the wireing is different than whatever you have.

Does your fuel tank have rust in it? I had that problem for a while, and what waws happening was the engine ran and the pump built up pressure, sucking the crap up from the tank into the fuel filter, clogging it up. When the engine is off and the pump isnt running the dirty fuel would back back up into the tank and lines.

Ok, here we go, I circled the nipple in red. Thanks.

Ya, Ill try to get a picture of it up somehow. Is there supposed to be a vaccum hose connecting it to the throttle dampener?

I have searched around and cannot find anything about this problem. Ok, I have a january 1979 s130 2 seater manual car, so it can be a little different from other s130's, but I found a disconnected vaccum nipple on the bottom part of my throttle body, and wondered what it was, and what vaccum line is supposed to connect to it. Is it the Throttle valve switch?

Awsome, thanks. Do you think the larger cam would benefit it even more, or would that be a waste of time?

try to find a 2nd hand leightwieght flywheel. My 79 s130 is pretty much stock, with exception to a couple pretty much useless boltons, im running the stock 8.3:1 compression, and I bought a 10.5lb fidanza flywheel, and it did miracles, it made the motor rev freely, and it pulls better on topend. Before I installed the clutch and flywheel, I ran a 16.2 @ 84mph that was my fastest time prior, after the flywheel and clutch I ran a 15.90 @ 87.2 mph and thats on bald all season tires running 35psi (Autox pressure). So lets recap, the clutch and flywheel gave me 3.2 mph higher trap speed at the end of the quarter mile.

So the other day i bought an mn47 head, and i was wondering if it would be ok to run the head on an l28e bottom end with dished pistons, running a p79 cam. Would i get and gains over my stock zn47 setup? For the mn47, i plan on doing a mild port, and leaving the smaller intake valves, the only thing im worried about is running lean. This should put me around 9.5:1 compression with a 1mm head gasket right? also, i have a 460 lift 280 duration @ .050 236 duration at .025 cam sitting in the shop, and I was wondering if it would be a waste or not to put that cam in the mn47 running stock valves, and efi. Thanks for the input. -Tyler-

Put an Ld28 in it, then remove as much wieght as possible. http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-4560231195287690993&q=ld28&ei=y8tSSO_QHoGqrQKrw_DCDA I have an ae86 corolla, and i thought about making it fully electric. My Z is only a toy right now, so im daily driving an 83 mazda B2200 diesel pickup, on my last tank of diesel, I got 44mpg, with full interior running the ac every now and again. Imagine what kind of milage a lieghter car will get with a diesel. The Ld28 maximas supposidly get around 30mpg, they could get better if you put it in a lieghter body, and coupled efi and a fuel management possibly. Also in my mazda, I run biodiesel. The only modifications needed for biodiesel is really synthetic fuel lines.

Out of curiousity, where can i find jet kits for SU carbs? I am building an f54/mn47 na motor, and I want to run SU's, they are great carbs.

Ya, sorry man, i didnt know you had a turbo, i know nothing about the turbo cars. Good luck with it man.

Im not doubting your 10 years of experience, but ive been working on my s130 for 9 years, and mine was a temp sensor. You say its not possible for that to have been what it was, if I drive a zx, well i Happen to drive a January 79 model which is carried over from the 78 half year, so dont tell someone they dont know what they are talking about if you've never worked on their car.

Ya, thats the temp sensor, if its broken, your ecu will think its cold outside all the time, therefore opening your coldstart valve all the time.

hmm, idk man, its been i while, but i could ave sworn it was the temp sensor. It whatever sensor tells the motor if its below a certain temp, so my motor always thought it was cold outside, so it ran the cold start valve all the time. Well anyway, i replaced it and it didint do that anymore.

Did you try the water temp sensor, mine made my cold start valve run all the time, its like a 10 dollar fix.

So can the camber not be adjusted on the stock setup, without the camberplates? I know miatas camber can be adjusted on stock suspension, can s130's not?

I was just wondering about like camber settings and such. This is what i meant by "custum alignment". The car is an autox car, it is also driven on the street about half the time. Should i run -1 degree of camber all the way around? Im trying to get it to handle well and not wear on the outside as much when i corner, and yes I am running enough pressure in my tires when i autox, i run about 36psi.

I have a 79 model with suspension techniques springs and swaybars, illumina struts in front, and kyb gas adjust shocks in back. Does anyone have any good custum alignment settings?

ya, i might eventually, but i love my ST springs and sways and i already have illuminas in the front, but i might eventually get some HP's, how much do they run?