silver280zx

I know what your saying man, you can tell what is going to happen from the pictures. Do you have any bottoming problems with the st springs now, or is that all fixed?

I had the temp sensor go bad, and mine wouldnt run at all, it completely floods. I tells your motor that the engine is below freezing all the time, so it runs the cold start valve wide open all the time. When mine was out, i could run it without my fuel pump relay in, it would syphen fuel through the lines into the engine. lol, but wouldnt run at all with the fuel pump running at all.

It sounds to me more like the coils were binding more than the struts bottoming out, that could cause the car to sit lower, my s130 has the front wheels like tucked in the wheel wells now with the st's.

Im not sure what the setup on the s30 is like, i enjoy mine on the s130, but i still think its a little soft on the s130 for my liking. If i had another go, id prolly try and make some fully adjustable coilovers, or go with stiffer motorsport springs. Dont get me wrong though, the ST's are amazing, but i love really agressive modifications. Isnt there a company that just started making coilovers for s130s?

Compression is a key to getting anything out of th emotor, if you put a cam in without raising the compression any, then you will be bleeding compression off and already compression-lacking engine. The best thing to do is to prolly put some flattop pistons in it, and get the ports in the head opened up. My s130 is a 79 as well, and it used to choke out around 5000rpm, but since i got the port job, it pulls strong to around 6k. Advance the ignition timng some as well. A lieghtwieght flywheel is a goodthing to do, along with a better clutch. Also go with a hotter ignition, i have a crane cams ignition, that has a dwell in the upper rpm's. It has made a good difference. Back before i did my seats, my clutch, and my aluminum flywheel, running 87 octane fuel, i ran a 15.9 in the quarter mile on stock compression, and the clutch wouldnt engage fully in any of my gears.i think my trap speed was like 88mph.i think with all i have done now, with everything working properly, i think i could pull low 15's easily. When talking about wieght reduction, replace the factory steelies, with some lieghter alloy wheels. I lost 35lbs by going from factory steelies to the swastica alloys. Also, the full back seats wiegh 45lbs a piece. Swap some fiberglass buckets in there. I put some momo START 2007 seats in mine and they make awsome track seats. I do not recomend for daily driving on them though, the are completely and utterly impractical.

I just went and bought a cap at my local hardware store.

What is slick 50? I have a second gear grind as well.

Does anyone know if the stock 15x7 watanabes that come on silvias have enough backspace to fit on an s130?

im about 99 % sure it is a re-grind, ill have to go dig up the cam card. The shaft is not quite as thick as stock. When i installed it the first time, i used stock lash pads, and had to re adjust the hieght of the rocker arms to to the manuals specs. but im almost certain its a regrind.

Thanks man. How exactly do you hook mega squirt up? is it a piggy back unit?

Thanks man, thats exactly what i was wanting to hear. Did you do your own maps? or did you get them from somone else?

I already own it, and am reading it, but its not written to certain after market specs, and it seems to mainly be for race motors. thanks anyway though

ya what size thickness of lash pads should i get? An on the cam card comp sent me, they said to advance the cam timing 16 degrees. Ill check both of those bolts on the distributer, i only moved one. thanks

So if i did run a stock ecu and just made it richened the mixture, would it really be that bad? I used to have the cam in it once before, when i was learning about engine building, and i found out what compression was the hard way, but thats another story. back when i did have it in i was retarded and had stock compression, but it always ran rich. would that change when i raise the compression? becasue the cam would be the same. Oh ya i forgot to mention this is a january 1979 s130. So i shouldnt have problems on 93? now and could you explain total and static advance? When i had the cam in, comp sent me the card, and it said to set it at 16 degrees advance for maximum efficiency. The stock one i believe is 4 degrees advanced. The ignition system runs 10 degrees over top dead center stock. Im running 25 degrees right now, i have my distributer turned as far advanced as the adjustment screw will slide, and no pinging. So when you say 35 degrees total advance, what exatly are you reffering to?

Ok heres what im thinking so far, ive read all the other threads on na builds, and i just cant make up my mind. I have a limited budget, but i have connections when it comes to the machine work, so thats not a big factor. ok now heres my current plan. f54 with .040 flattop overbore n42 head, ported, polished vlaves felpro headgasket 1mm comp cam 280s 460 lift 280 duration intake with the runners widened and portmatched 60mm tb larger injectors I currently have: xr3000 crane cams ignition silicone wires NGK iridium plugs K&N short ram intake Motorsort header 2 1/2in 2 1/2 inch borla exhaust i do have a timing gun so i can reset the timing when im done Ok heres the question. Will i get detonation problems on Georgia 93 pump gas? What power range will i be looking at? I run autox so im looking around the 180whp mark. What modifications to my suggested setup do you recomend if its not a good idea? I know about the p90 head shaving and i dont think its worth all the hassle to me. Anyway thanks for your help. -Tyler-

As bad as the bumpers look to some people, for those that drive their s130's daily, i would keep them, they actually serve a purpose. Mine would be pretty messed up if it werent for my bumpers. They are great considering z's dont have abs.

It prolly has 132k, i got mine and it said 46k, and i got the title and it actually rolled over twice. So it actually had 246k. Big difference!! Its a good thing it was given to me. I have 276k now, didnt really have problems till i got to 270k.

my bad

Does anyone happen to know the spring rates on Suspension Techniques springs for the s130?

So last week i got in a wreck and now i have paint and hood and fenders to buy, well i developed an antifreeze leak, and just thought it was due to a leaking intake manifold gasket, well i wasnt sure if it was that or the head gasket, so i took the valvecover off to re-torque the head, and well i look down and found the top of one of my head bolts rolling around under my rocker arms. So its been a really really bad 2008. Sorry bout all this, i just had to complain to some other z guys who might know what im going through.

Dont forget that the 260z is running an e88 head, which means that you will have to drill out slots for the fuel injectors. if this isnt done, then the injectors wont fit down in the head.

Sorry my b, didnt read all the post. Thats good that you got it spinning.

Did you happen to try taking them off when the car had wieght on the strut? When i did my suspension, i loosened the nut before i lifted teh car off the ground, just kinda to breeak it loose.

When you test the plugs are you testing them on another device or on the car? You should take the plug out keeping it on the wire and turn it over with the fuel pump relay out, and see if your cap is sending spark to that spark plug on the car. Next like one of the other guys was saying, check the cap and wires. My car missed on 3 once, but that was due to oil dripping on the plugs from teh seals.

I agree, everyone i know that has rb20det's hate them, the rb25det is a better swap. You can pick one up for around 2500 bucks. and you have 250hp on tap at like 7lbs of boost if im right. The engine is a beast as well. I have a friend that has one in his s30, he currently is makeing 449whp on like 20psi, and stock internals. Hes running a gt30/70 turbo. the last time i saw him run he ran like an 11.80 at 126mph, with an open diff and crappy tires. Supposidly hes in the 10's now. Top Hat motorsports a while back qouted me 4200 bucks for an rb25 swap a while back. and thats buying the motor and them mounting, and dyno tuning.