240z72

Thanks bud. I have 4 245/45/16's off a turbo z i had. I also have some 195's lol. They may have to do till i get the flares on.

Thank you sir. The company is called Speartech. Good people. Owner is John. Hes a good guy. Called me every step of the way. Would use him again if I needed to.

Update. Was able to get my front suspention up and in. Had roters turned. They came out nice. Were a bit warped but I plan to upgrade later. Got everything set a torqued. Need to set ride height and have an alighnment done. I wont be able to run my 245's without looking stupid. Flares will need to be installed. Been looking at install threads. Dosent seem too bad. Just dont want to mess up. Mainly with the back as I can change the front fenders. Started doing some wireing for the fuel system. I just reused the original sender wires for the fuel cell GM sender. Traced out what wires I needed. Also found that the harness is wired for a fuel pump. Its just taped off. Its the stock harness and its a 72 car and they wouldent have EFI till 75. Kinda interesting. Heres some pics of how I set it up. Harness end at firewall Harness in dash Behind guage This is the fuel pump power wire down by the fuse box All I have to do is run the correct wires to each and I should be done with that. I do need the nuts for the fuel pump as I lost mine for now. I recived my harness today. Woke up to the sound of the UPS guy driving away! I jumped in my truck and chased him down haha. Here it is laid out. Here it is basically tossed on the motor. This is the fuse box and fuel pump relay with OBD2 port/check engine light. Along with all the power/ign./signal wires. Just at a glance I might have to extend the O2 sensor pluggs. Also tidy up a bad connection made by the PO on a splice. All seems to fit well and looks like I will be able to mount the PCM just inside the cab on the passenger side like I wanted.

What gearing is your diff. You have an open diff. right? How soon before you swap out for the ford?

Awsome build havent seen anything like it.

Did the snap happen on the same side?

Somebodys loaded! lol nice car man!

Update: Installed my heater box. Hooked up the heater hoses and installed the new shut off valve. Also installed my heater fan after cleaning it out and testing it. Ran good. I wasent able to get my roters turned as the ghetto parts store said their machine broke. I was able to measure it out as the guy working there had no idea how to use the caliper. This is after I had to use a paper clip to turn it on....They have plunty or room to be freshened up. I have a friend whose dad works at Ford and he offered to turn them for me for free. Once I get them back Ill be able to install my hubs. I did manage to get my coilovers installed. Along with the new struts. Must say im getting the excited feeling like Im getting somewhere. Mainly I need cv adaptors, radiator, fan, plug wires, brake pads, brake shoes, and my harness. My harness is being worked on now so I should have it soon. Then I can wire everything up YAY!!! hahah. From what Ive read the wiring is not hell. I just dont want to burn anything up. I also got some jack stands today

Hey man do you ever have anything good to say? hahah. Just kidding. Its was good enough to pull the suspention. It was alot more soild then you might think I wont try and drop my motor in like that though. Thing is I couldent find a set of 6 tons over the weekend. So I made due. Still alive . _X_: Thanks man! Ya I really dident want to start moding it yet but the deal came around and I couldent pass it up for the price so I bought some cosmetic stuff. Keith: Thank you for the help. Thats what the guide says for the tranny to bellhousing bolt. Guess they though your suppose to figure it out. That is very true. I just dont like to have stripped bolts I will play with it for a bit but if its a huge deal Ill just pass on it. I got a call from Speartech today but I missed it because it was around 10am and Iwas asleep!!! Working night shift now so im dead at that time. So I only assume that my harness is about to go on the chopping block. Yay haha. Well time to go out and hit it again!!

You need to find a new cable. Look up your carb and find a new cable. If it is manual you will have to adjust it yourself. Make shur your carb is tuned also. Try joining a old chevy forum. They will have more info and knowledgeable people. I personally wouldent ask what you asked here. It has nothing to do with datsuns. Only with your carb brand. Concentrate just on the carb and getting it setup how it is stock amd not how you got it from the guy you bought it from. Hope that helps. Goodluck.

DAZ: Thanks for the pics. What are you running up front? Personally I think I will have to do flairs. I havent been able to set the car down on its wheels yet and squat the suspention so we will see. Keith: Ive been trying to get ahold of JTR to see if I can exchange my headders for the ceramic coated ones. I also aborted the heat shields. I started to look at it and its funny you said I might have issues with access because thats what I opened my eyes to notice. :/ If I ever get ahold of JTR and for some odd reason they wont do it I may have this company called Jet Hot coat them for me. Honestly I think im going to get a quote from them because their coatings are most likely better. Phantom: Thanks man!! Ya Im shur Ill be happy with around 300hp for awhile. I am also having my PCM flashed. I dont know what kinda numbers I will be getting but one day Ill know. The mounts showed the resarch and development in how easy they went in. Honestly the only issue I had was the bolt kit was missing a bolt. That was easily fixed with a trip to the hardware store. UPDATE: Since I last posted. I finished rebuilding the heater box. Came out great. Looks and works like new. That will go in tomorrow. I then pulled out the whole front suspention for new bushings, struts, cleaning and paint. Also to install my coilovers. I dont have anything fancy for coilovers. I finished spraying the underbody. After disassembly and cleaning I tore into the hubs and repacked the bearrings and ordered seals, ball joints and tie rod ends. I think the rack is fine. Feels nice and tight. I will try and have these roters turned as they look like new stock roters just a bit rusty. As I have no idea if or how long the seals in the stock calipers will hold out. As the brakes havent worked in years! I might try and rebuild them or buy some good used ones. I did some reading and found a ggod combo is stock front with maby some slotted/drilled roter and some good pads. With a mild disc brake convertion in the rear. We will see what happens. I remember when I had my 72 all dialed in thast thing would stop great. It was all stock. Last but not least. Alot of key things came in on saturday including my remote bleeder. I installd that and was able to stab the tranny to the motor. Poped in nice and felt good. The stranger off Craigs list was honest it was a ls1 t56. Now lets see if it works!! lol. Sad note, the lower left bellhousing bolt the goes into the pan is stripped. WAS stripped. I dident do it !! lol. So I will be playing with that next. Anybody know what the torque spec is for the bellhousing to motor bolts? The damn Chilton book dosent say in the specs. I dident look very thuro though. Its most likely in a different chapter. Heres a few pics I snapped when I dident have my hands covered in grease, paint or diesel.... Heres how it looked after I pulled the wheel and brake line. After paint. Almost forgot to post this but I got my coil packs in for my valve covers. I dismanteled them off the brackets and wrapped the harness. I reused the plastc channel thing they came with and zip tied it down. Best I could do and I think it looks fine. Im not tring to win any shows here. Heres a pic of the motor and trans togeather.

Correct. Sorry typo. They are 245/45/16....

I did a lil more on the build today. I removed the heater core hoses and I found the control valve came out in pices. Also I found the main flap foam gaskets in the heater box all messed up and not attached to the flap. So I decided to pull the whole unit. The core looks good and dosent leak when I flushed it out but who knows under pressur. Im gonna have it pressure checked befor I go threw all the hassel of installing the dash. Just to remove it again. I plan on using some thin foam window seal strip to fix the flap gaskets and the other stuff in the heater box. I cleaned it all out ,it was full of leaves and painted the thing. Gonna fix and lube all the linkages to make it smooth again. It hailed here something fierce today. First rain of the year and wow it was a storm. Luckey it stopped after a few hours and is suppose to be clear for the weekend. I hope to get the front end bushings done. If I get my strut in (yes strut..I just need one) I will be able to go back togeather with my coilovers. I WANT MY HARNESS ALREADY HAHAH!! Cant wait to hear this thing run.... Question: I have some 245/75/R16's I want to run on the car. Will I need flairs to do this? Ive read no but just though Id ask. More to come.....

In the pic he posted the white and red wire is the positive lead off the alternator. All those are alternator wires. If in fact that is the one your talking about. There is another white wire in the top pic (I donk know if that has a red stripe) that is the one that feeds the cab.

Keith: Ok thanks for the tip. I dont see why that would be an issue. Most exhaust bolts ive delt with are setup that way but Ive see a different style bolt used where the thread are cut different. I forgot the name of them but they fight you all the way off. Like constant tention bolts? I dont know what they are called. Just a thought, I dont know if it would be possible but could you do a jam nut setup? Update: I played with some spare metal I had laying around and fabbed up some heat shields. Basically to stop most of the heat from melting my harness and boiling my brake fluid. I plan to paint them and layer the inside with heat insulation. Heres a few pics of them just layed on there.

Ok thanks for looking out! I always use the copper rtv on everything I need to use rtv on. What surface did you put it on? On the headder, or the head itself or both? Ya I saw how you did that spot welding of the bolts in one of your threads and I was gonna steal that idea haha. Gonna def. get some nice grade 8 bolts on there. Are you using hex nuts and lock washeres? Or nylon lock nuts? I think with the heat nylon lock nuts wouldent work. Yes anti-seize is a must. I use it on basically everything unless it says not to haha.

Ya thats the basic power setup for most cars n trucks.. I personally havent had to deal with it yet as im not there in my build but I think the altertor needs a resistor because I think if you give it 12v it will fry it . Dont quote me its just what ive read. I dont know anything more about it yet. But id look into it befor you ruin your alternator. Goodluck.

The white wire I think 10 guage wire is what feeds the cab for power. All cars and trucks take the cab feed power from the positive terminal on the starter.

Thanks Keith. I tried to imagin exhaust routing. Thats one reason i dident want to mount on the sides of the tank. Ill have to look at it again but i bleive im good to go for the exhaust. As far as the suspention I should be in the clear. I tucked up up basically as far up and out of the way as possible knowing that I will have that axle runnen threw there. I really need some companion flanges asap so i can basically button up my rear half of the car. And on the headders I have to really go over them still to make shur for clearence. I just did a quick mock up but nothing serious yet. Still waiting on my harness befor I can go in with the motor and tranny again. I had a question Keith. What type of gaskts do you use for the headders? I dont think mine came with any gaskets. Im thankful for all the tips you guys are giving. I t really help to have a secong opinion. More to come!

Are you talking about the z car wireing for the ignition switch? If so what z car are you using? and what year?

Ok update! I havent got a whole lot done recently. But I did a few things. I ordered a remote bleeder from Summit and it was the wrong one. Wrong threads for the HTOB. So off that goes to the retun department. I also ordered a throttel cabel. I installed it with littel modification. All I had to do was drill out the old pin and round the tip a bit to let the thing swivel. i just use some flat washers and reused the old hole for the throttel shaft. Sorry no pics of it yet. I then finished routing my fuel line threw the cab and out the fire wall. Was easy to do. Just used so p-clams and drilled a few holes threw the back end in the storage compartment. I also recived my fuel rails and valve covers from a fellow member on here. I installed them and I think they look great. Well I cant wait for my harness to be here!! I think im going to start teating into my front suspention and redoing the bushing and struts. Along with installing the coil overs. So I do have some work to do yet. But im itching to drop the motor in...Ill update as I get it dont. Thnaks for reading!

Hey man try posting this in the "parts wanted" section. Might get some better luck there. Good luck with the hunt!!

Another step made in the quest for the LSZ. I fabbed up a bracket to locate the C5 filter/regulator right next to the pump. It went really good. I was even able to reuse a line that I made for my old setup as the return. Hosestly couldent of asked for it to come out better. My next step will be to start running the feed threw the floor and down the passenger side trans tunnel on the inside of the car. Sunny: I would honestly be interested if they would work for me AND if you were just gonna upgrade not quit! I have the standard 4 bolt cv's with the 27? spline 280z axles. Keith: Thank you! Ya ive heard you and sunny talk about it so I went ahead and did it befor I put fuel in. Seemed smart to me. More to come!

Keep at it bud. If your 280z fuel tank is in good condition, I belive you can reuse it with a larger pump. Use the GM C5 fuel filter/regulator. It has a built-in regulator. Also if that is a t56 get it! 400$ is cheap. Hopefully its not shot. Goodluck!