280Zone

I ordered the Gen II mini with defrost and control panel. Should be here Monday. Price was right around $500.

If you tell me what you want to run I'll do my best to tell you if it will fit.

I run an air gap intake, stock carb and, a billet oval air cleaner, but it is under my SS style hood : ) http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=101130

Condensed Excerpts from the 2005 NHRA Rulebook: The following information will get 99% of cars through Tech Inspection, but there are always some things we can’t foresee. The purpose of Tech Inspection is to ensure your safety and the safety of spectators and race crew. Therefore, the Race Director’s decisions on Tech Inspection matters are FINAL! 1. Seat belts are required (even if your car is so old it didn’t come with belts) and must be securely/properly mounted. Seat belts must be worn when racing. 2. All windows must be present and in good condition (free of cracks). Cars must run with all windows up, sunroofs and T-tops closed. Convertibles must run with the top up. (Note: Convertibles running 13.99 or quicker must be equipped with an NHRA-legal five-point roll bar. Consult our Tech Crew.) 3. All automatic transmissions must have a functional neutral safety switch. Vehicle may only crank in Park or Neutral. (Note: an ignition kill switch is not enough. The starter must not function when the transmission is in gear.) 4. Doors handles must be functional, inside & out. “Shaved†door handles not permitted unless there is an obvious mechanical means for our safety crew to open the driver and front passenger doors from the outside. 5. Battery cannot be located in driver/passenger compartment (unless meeting all NHRA rules and requirements, consult the NHRA Rulebook or our Tech Crew) and the battery must be securely mounted. No bungee cords, fabric straps, wire, rope, Ty-Wraps, leather belts, etc., are acceptable in place of a proper mechanical battery hold-down. 6. Vehicles with batteries that are relocated from the stock location must have an external master cutoff switch on the outside rearmost portion of the vehicle. This switch must kill ALL electrical functions including the engine. The OFF position of this switch must be labeled for our safety crew. (There are additional requirements for relocated batteries. Please, before you relocate your battery, see our Tech Crew or the NHRA Rulebook for guidance.) 7. Cooling system must have an overflow catch bottle. If your coolant-recovery system is not factory-stock, then the catch bottle must be 16 ounces capacity, minimum. 8. Tires must be in good condition, with at least 1/16 inch of visible tread remaining and no cord showing. Slicks must have visible wear indicators showing. 9. Carburetor must be covered. If your vehicle has no hood, mechanical fan must be removed but electric fans are OK. 10. Helmets: Drivers of all vehicles running 13.99 or quicker, and ALL convertibles regardless of E.T., must wear an SFI-approved helmet with a Snell rating of M90/SA90 or newer. Passengers in convertibles running 14.00 and slower must also wear an approved helmet. (Note: DOT-only helmets are not permitted. SFI-approved helmets are not permitted if the Snell label inside the helmet is missing or illegible. In other words, a Snell-rating on the outside of the helmet is not good enough.) 11. All vehicles must have at least one working taillight, which must be ON for night racing and visible to the Starter from the turn-out at the far end of the track. 12. All hubcaps and trim rings must be removed, unless bolted on. If bolted on, the Tech Crew will ask you to remove one or more caps so wheel stud length may be checked. All wheel studs (not just on the drive wheels) must extend into the hex portion of the lug nut a distance equal to the diameter of the stud. 13. If your rear-wheel-drive vehicle is capable of running quicker than 13.00 in the quarter-mile, a driveshaft loop is required. Consult with our Tech Inspectors for specifics. 14. If your vehicle is capable of running quicker than 12.00 in the quarter-mile, please consult with our Tech Inspectors for additional safety equipment requirements. 15. No vehicle may be in motion with the hood up, whether under power or being pushed or towed. Please lower your hood for visibility when moving your vehicle. The following are additional requirements for motorcycles: 1. Rider must wear a full-face SFI-approved helmet with a Snell rating of M90/SA90 or newer or K98. 2. Rider must wear a leather jacket. (NHRA, as yet, has not approved ballistic-material jackets. Please, wear leather. Also, suede is not acceptable as a “leather†jacket; it doesn’t have the strength to prevent “road rashâ€.) Riders of bikes capable of running faster than 120 mph in the quarter must wear full leathers; two-piece leathers must fasten together at the waist. 3. Rider must wear full finger leather gloves with no holes. 4. Rider must wear leather shoes/boots that reach above the ankle. 5. Vehicle must have a chain guard extending at least to the centerline of the rear axle. Shaft-drive excepted, of course. 6. Vehicle must have a working taillight visible to the Starter from the turn-out at the far end of the track. 7. Throttle must be spring-return type. Throttle must snap closed when released. 8. Bikes capable of running 10.99 or quicker in the quarter mile must be equipped with a positive ignition cutoff switch (in the low-voltage side of the ignition system) attached to the rider with a lanyard. Cutoff switch will be function-tested during Tech Inspection. 9. Nitrous oxide allowed if bottle is DOT-1800 rated and securely mounted. See NHRA Rulebook or our Tech Inspectors. 10. Operational two-wheel brakes are mandatory. No “dirt bikes†with rear-wheel brake only. 11. No three-wheelers of any kind. Check with our Tech Crew for rules on 4-wheel ATV’s.

It doesn't look like anything I have seen from Arizona Z car.

DMSV8 has added a four link set up to his 260 along with a Ford 9 inch rear end. If you act quick he has a rear sub frame assembly for a Zcar that is set up for ladder bar suspension. He can be contacted at dmsv8@netzero.com You can check out his gallery pictures, he is in AZ. http://www.desertzassociation.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=231

Still trying to get the car street legal, so it gets towed to and from the shop on weekends. The last two times I have towed it home and got it parked in the driveway it decides to puke out about a quart or so of transmission fluid! I have checked for leaks and don't see any, we drive it around and beat the crap out of it at the shop with no problems, but the short trip home on the tow dolly seems to make it very sick. The car gets towed approx 6 miles in neutral.

item # 7997024134

Someone used the same method that scrab73 described. Then they applied liberal amounts of black silicone to the back around the edge to keep them in place. I just wish they would have got them straighter. : )

I am running solid lifters in a built 74 Chevrolet 350 with roller rockers etc. Can someone confirm what the lash should be?

Pictures of the AutoMeter's in the stock locations. http://album.hybridz.org/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=8324

I think SEZ is being canceled so you can take that money too. Any extra 70 Chevelle stuff let me know.

Both cars look like reasonable deals since there is probably a little wiggle room on the price. If you want to go stock I'd buy the 70 since it will have a greater value in resell. Both car appear to have about $300 to $400 in wheels alone. If it were me I'd buy both and move all the good parts to one car and then liquidate the left overs.

The nut are on the inside of the body. You have to reeach up from behind.

I have seen a couple for sale here in Phoenix if that would interest you.

Many get totaled from flood damage that is not always obvious.

Did you check your strut insolators? The rubber is getting old and I have seen a few that fail.

You will need a Auto Meter Elec speedo sender, part number 5291. Approx $55, I bought one and now don't need it so hopefully my local speed shop with take it back.

My plan is to also go two tone for my 75 L6 car. Since the Z does not have a sharp line from front to back it may take a bit of trial and error. Where the two colors meet people typically have a line of two pin stripped on. This helps to smooth out the overall look. My colors will be dark on top and light on the bottom but I have seen the opposite and it looks good too. Search the galleries there are few out there.

Can you PM me the details too?

So how do you like the new look? Kind of goes with that V8 attitude huh?

Thanks for sharing that insight. What speedo are you using?

Since I am guessing the car is silver, why not just bullet?

Gary's brother, Danny, is the fiberglass expert behind Gary's car. His front end is a custom one off airdam. Find yourself a good fiberglass guy right after you have a full wallet.

The precision kit for a lot less. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1970-1978-Datsun-Z-Car-COMPLETE-Weatherstrip-Kit-NIB_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33685QQitemZ7988953507QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW