Lockjaw

Guy has a ported E31 on there too for like 900 bucks. Can you say "bend over" ?

I don't know who Joel is either.

MIA, and probably cowering in fear of Bob.

HEy when the first Toyota camry's came out, and I was a teenager, we were all down in Gulf Shores and my mother and I went out to go somewhere in the car. I opened my door and then unlocked her's, put the key in the ignition and was about to turn the thing over when we both realized we were not in our camry. I thought the door lock was a little stiff. Maybe I should have tried driving it. My ZX keys come flying out of the ignition switch when I get on it hard. Nothing like fumbling around for them in the dark.

Most of the stuck solenoids I have heard about have frozen open since the stuff is so cold. I know two people who had it happen to them personally, and the damage is more disasterous on a turbo engine since you have more stuff in the intake tract to grenade. It just comes with risks. As I also said, I will likely get it for my car, and use it sparingly as James does.

I think the claim was the analog efi set-up. I am sure I could take the JWT set-up on my ZX off, get a chip burned and throw it on an NA engine and make 230 hp. I also find it puzzling that someone would throw a bone out there like that, and then not say anything else. I have friends who have run mid to low 14's na with the factory fuel injection, but 230 hp would put you way down there.

Well it sounds to me like the advertised duration doesn't tell you jack unless you are comparing cams from the same manufacturer. I mean if you have a crane that is advertised at 280, a comp cam at 268, a crower at 288, and an isky at 270, and they all are 220 at 50, then it sounds like to me, they are all pretty much the same cam. I don't see how you can say you have a more aggressive ramp rate with one versus the other, since it sounds like some of the grinders are less than truthful about what they are truely grinding. Then I looked at the Webcam link James put out there, and the larger cams would appear to have a faster ramp rate based upon his criteria, so wouldn't that make them better suited than the cam he chose? Sounds to me like I could pick a cam from each manufacturer and put them all in a hat and pick one and be just as well off. Jeff I have seen some numbers on head flow that showed what you describe, to much lift starts to hurt flow. I guess I won't have to worry about that with this little cam I have. I also thought one area that was improved on the p series heads was low lift flow. I hope that is the case.

Yeah, and while you are emailing, how about fabbing me up a set and sending them to me. What kind of money would it take?

Well this one died on the vine didn't it?

I am also curious about this ramp rate thing. I have two cams from the same grinder, both billets. Both are listed as 288 advertised duration, yet one is 234 @50 and the other is 218. What is the deal with that? Does it mean the one that is 218 has a slow ramp? What are the advantages/disadvantages of that? I had always heard that the advertised duration was "creative" which is why there is the 50 thousandths spec. That is what keeps the people honest. Come on somebody tell me what the deal is with this stuff. I am curious.

YOu want to make sure that when the number one piston is at top dead center that the little V notch on the back of the cam sprocket lines up with the mark that looks like this - on the plate on the front of the first cam tower. Your harmonic balancer should also have the notch in it line up with the 0 on your timing scale. If the v notch on the cam is a little ahead no biggie, if it is a little or alot behind, you need to fix that, and it is a delicate proceedure if you haven't done it before. You would not want to lose tension on the timing chain and have the tensioner pop out or you will be ing

WHat about the overlap though? That is what I want to know about. A cam as big as yours has to have some overlap doesn't it? How is it that a cam with overlap works in a turbo engine when everything out there says it is not the way to go? I mean I have tried an NA cam in one of my turbo engines before and it ran like junk. What makes this one different? Is it the wider lobe center, what? Why not answer questions instead of trying to push peoples buttons? Your post is technical in nature, and is about cam design, and I want to know why a cam that you have that judging by the spec's, would not necessarily be one people would think to use in a turbo application, yet it works for you. Based upon what I see, I could take the cam out of my NA 2.8 and stick it in my turbo engine, and even with 40 plus degree's of overlap, it should work. I don't see how. Break it down for me, I am missing something.

All I see is a red X.

JWT designed theirs. That cam is the same spec as my NA cam in my 2.8 with the exception of .5 degree more LC. If I put that cam in my turbo engine, I could probably turn the thing to 8 grand. How is it that it doesn't have to much overlap? Seems to me it would have to have overlap. I don't even see datsun/nissan listed on ISKY's site anymore. http://www.iskycams.com/

I prefer a turbo to NOS. With a turbo, you don't have to worry about NOS solenoids sticking, the bottle running low, filling the bottle, and having a projectile in the back of your car. NOS comes out at 900 psi, so imagine what would happen if you were involved in an accident, and the nozzle broke off. Some contend that the big turbo's make power down low even though they are not making much in the way of boost. With aftermarket engine management, I believe you can tune the engine to be more responsive off boost, but how much so, I don't know. My last hybrid was at full boost by 2800, and started making boost as low as 2000. That is nice for the street. Oh and one more thing, turbo's can be untilized at part throttle, NOS can't.

Are you guys using coil packs? Or are you using the one without?

Yes the waste gates are internal. If you get a hybrid, you are going to have to fab up the down pipe and the intake plumbing. The other option is to send your turbo off and have it upgraded, and then it would be a bolt on affair.

You may have a bad wastegate actuator, although I have not seen one of those. You could also have a cracked or disconnected vacuum line from the turbo to the actuator. Where are you located? You need to find someone who knows what they are doing. Sounds like that shop is trying to pull one over on you to me.

Who said the cylinder wall was to thin at 89mm? Here is something to mull over. The L6 block bored to 89 mm still has thicker cylinder walls than the stock 300zxtt block.

Sorry, I guess we could start it over.

Are they brown tops?

At least it is not a holley red like the one that came on my 260. And Karma, if your car right now is carb'd, and you put a turbo engine in it, you will have to get a different pump since a carb pump won't feed an injected engine.

It moved into the great former posts holding area in the sky. Also, I have been on other sites that are far worse about locking threads. Usually they get locked right after someone insults me.

Its a long shot, but check and make sure the balancer hasn't slipped. I had one I could not get set right, and it turns out the balancer had slipped. Once I found TDC and marked the balancer and set the timing, everything was good. Make sure the balancer bolt is tight too. Your issue is most likely timing related. Make sure your plug gaps are correct, and that the cap, rotor and plug wires are good. Also, if your SU's are bad, your engine will misbehave and not turn up.