Lockjaw

Well I thought I would be smart and do a reverse look-up on the number and see what I could find, but it is either a cell phone or a non-published number. Sorry, thouhght we could have even more fun.

I don't think I ever said Tim or James were wrong, and I understand the theory of what they said, which I have already said. I can see how both theories would apply, and I can see how what the guy told me could be flawed as well. Your example makes it a clearer, and it sure is a lot easier to digest considering you are being nice about it. Anyway, I am just ready to see the results of the bigger turbo, and a balancer that will hold together. Wish I could be there to watch too.

If you will look at a post a few down you will note one of our members Jeffp put down 415 hp thru a stock exhaust manifold that I am sure he worked on it some to open it up a bit. He has several posts about the set-up so I would recommend you check it out. There is also a thread on a T04 header that a guy was wanting to build, but wanted some commitments on who would be interested. Finally, Cartech ( Bell engineering group) has some sort of manifold also, and I believe it is T04 flanged as well.

If it is a stock nissan one, you can bend it towards the front of the car, in the direction that keeps the rod centered in the opening of the actuator. This mod is kind of like Kentucky Jelly, a little goes a long way. A little trial and error will get you where you want to be. There is another option too. You can get a deal at a hardware store that is like a long hollow bolt aproximately the same diameter as the rod, and cut the rod and thread it and use that to manipulate boost. You can also search for the mod using the grainger valve and use that to manipulate the boost, or buy a manual adjustable boost controller. You could probably hunt around on ebay and find one cheap.

See now I am confused. A leading Turbo Builder told me that it is at low boost levels that the wastegate has trouble controling boost since it has to bypass so much air to keep the boost low, but as the boost climbs, then the amount of air that needs to bypass the turbine decreases. I mean I can see your point Tim, but now I have a conflicting story. As a side note, Jeff is picking up roughly the ability to force an additional 20 pounds of airper minute by going to the 62. The stage V is a quarter inch larger in exducer then what he had, so the wheel should flow better too. I would think the limiting factor would be what can flow thru the .63 housing, and that would be where his boost creep would come from, and where the big wastegate would benefit him the most. Maybe a combination of the two. Anyway, I would like to see him try it just to see what happens. Since he is at 8 psi, there should be a pretty wide margin of safety before detonation, so if it creeped some, no biggie. Besides, I hate the noise externals make. I would have to plumb it back into my exhaust.

I run 22 psi at the track with 20 to 22 degree's of advance using 110 leaded and 93 octane, but unfortunately, i don't have a stock ecu so I am not sure this helps much. I am glad you guys like the stock WGA, I hated mine. I much prefer the one I had made, and it looks nice too. Nice and shiny.

Yeah I was getting confused until you put it into language I can understand. The problem is I am not sure what it would take to properly prep my wife. She doesn't find any humor in my fondness for slapping and/or rubbing her butt.

Pull the whole turbo engine and ecu and wiring harness and put the turbo engine in your car. Stay away from the 81 turbo since the harness has the crank angle sensor down on the balancer versus in the distributor. Easier to upgrade to JWT stuff with the CAS in the distributor. Jeff is also correct about the NA piston rings being closer to the combustion chamber, and since nissan went to the extra trouble to make a turbo piston, I think it is a good idea to use it instead of an NA one. Have fun.

Well I can see we are going to have to weigh a standard crank and a diesel one to get to the bottom of the weight issue. TopEnd says they are heavier, although I would not say they are the difinative source of info on the Z's yet. Donna that turbo ought to be right up TimZ'z alley. HAHA

That would be a long drive for Jeff to make just to race. I was curious about the mudhole reference. Are you trying to say we have bad roads in ALA? The problem I see with the diesel dampner is that a diesel doesn't turn the rpms that Jeff is turning his engine to.

The stock wastegate actuator sucks IMO. I had spiking problems with mine and the stock turbo, although I did not have any problems holding boost above 13 psi. I had one made by Topend for my hybrid, and it is much stouter. I like it, and since it is a dual port unit, I use a manual boost controller to introduce boost to the bottom port to raise the boost beyond the rate set by the adjustable wastegate arm.

The best thing to do is start with a turbo car, since it has all the required parts. There are several turbo shops in texas, such as Alamo, Cartech( Bell Engineering), Forced Performance, Majestic Turbo. Any one of these can help, althouh Cartech has the most experience with Z cars. Swapping the fuel injection set-up to the 300ZX one like Len suggested is a good upgrade too. You can also search thru the archives and see what you come up with. There is more than one way to go about making a turbo Z fast. Just depends on your preference and your wallet.

The .82 has the least amount of restriction.

You have lots of options. If the lift is over .460 you have to swap out the factory springs according to most sources, since that is where they coil bind. I have not always found that to be the case though. Motorsport Auto has some nice one's. The one that is 274 duration and .480 lift is a nice cam that pulls good. You need to have higher compression to get the most out of your cam. Crower will also grind you a billet for 180 I think. I like their cams. They can also regrind yours if you send it to them. You don't have to replace the rocker arms, but generally you have to replace the lash pads when you change cams. Motorsport is probably the best alternative if you are not well versed in that area, they can set you up with a cam kit for about 460. If you don't replace the rocker arms, the valvetrain noise will be louder than stock. Good luck.

I hope you are not planning to turbo thru SU's. It is not clear from your post. You can pretty much turbo anything, the question is how long will it last. You will have less margin for error with the flat top engine, so be careful with the boost and timing and you should be ok. I kind of look at things like this. If Nissan thought the flat top piton engine was robust enough, they would not have made a separate piston for the turbo engine.

I got an idea, get rid of the stroker crank. HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!! Well I don't care about AC when the engine ends up in my 260Z, so what could I use? Maybe the racing pulley? What about one from a Skyline. I mean it is an inline 6. Surely there has to be something for it because they twist those engines up there. Maybe one of our engineering geniuous's (spelling) could make one. My friend put the orthodox pully(dampner) on his 300ZXTT and it made a big difference. Of course it doesn't have a long crank.

Nah TimZ you are not the enemey, I am just being a smart alec. I am excited to see some nice BIG numbers from a car with an EFI set-up like mine and without having to resort to the big turbo. I like the response my hybrid has, and wanted to stay with a hybrid for that reason, and packaging.

Well Yo came by last night and we cut one of my old forged pistons so we could mic it, and they were only .2 inch thick!!!! But they had some raised reinforcement ribs on the underside of the piston crown. Now I want to say this. These were made by Ross Racing in the early 80's, and they are not a turbo piston. I would say they are pretty much a copy of the stock Nissan NA piston. They had about 80k miles on them, so I am sure they were well punished. The 300ZXTT has a piston coating on the skirts and it is gone by 100k miles.

A Gn system has a cam sensor that is a pain in the neck to mess with unless you know what you are doing, so if you are thinking poor mans Tec II, think again. Not saying it can't be done. There was a 300ZX Z31 that was built up in SCC magazine that used the infinity ecu that was modded by JWT, and it had two timers and was sequential, although I am not sure if it was all the way out. Mine and JeffP's ecu's are 88-89 Z31 that are quasi sequential up to 49%, and then switch over to batch fire. What that means is it batch fires 3 injectors instead of 6 until the fuel requirement reaches 49% and then it makes the switch since it only has one timer. The switchover was very noticeable when I first got my set-up, but with revision work, it has cleared up and is really not noticable. It is certainly much better than the 280ZXT ecu. I would like to add that if you are using a Z31 ecu, you have to buy bigger injectors anyway if you went to a stand alone, why not just have the ecu upgraded? It would be cheaper than a stand alone.

PLease do, and have you noticed the "big turbo guys" are conspicuous in their absence?

Why don't you just adjust the rod length or the stoke to drop the piston down in the bore a little? Then you can keep your crown thickness, and get your compression. Mine sat down in the bore 1mm or so. Ran good too. Of course when the oil ring failed and it had to come apart, I had the block decked to shorten the gap.

Maybe you can have Hesco weld some extra metal in the piston to reinforce it. They actually told me they weld pistons all the time. I had a forged one with a hole in it from a dropped valve, and they said for me to bring it down and they would weld it up.

All you need is rings, bearings timing kit and gaskets. If you replace the oil pump, get one from an automatic turbo. Sealed power kits are good. I just ordered a set of non-premium rings (whatever that means, they are not chrome though) for an 82 na zx, and they were 47 bucks, rods were 26 or so. I have found hunting around on the internet is a good way to find some deals on stuff. These are sealed power. Mains usually run in the 50 dollar range. The chrome rings do not seat well in an out of round bore, so I try to stay away from them unless you have a torque plate to hone out the engine. Might as well use the advice from the Nissan hotrodding books right? Good luck.

Work some majic on your wallet, thats funny. I think actually Topend said if you wanted to spend the money, go ahead, but they did not see a benefit to it, or something along those lines.