Lockjaw

I am not exactly sure about the duration. I seem to remember Clark saying something about 5 thousandths, so I would say that the duration is at 50 thousandths would be somewhere around 210-218. Just a guess. That Scheider cam, if it is NA is one I tried in a turbo car since I had one, and it ran like junk. I knew Jun had a turbo cam, and so does Gude and Schneider. What I think sets apart the JWT cam is all the R&D they put into the design of the cam and fixing the harmonics. They also cut a head apart and took measurements and all sorts of technical stuff that is over my head. Suffice to say, I would bet money it is the best thing out there.

I had to plumb my BOV back into the intake tract or my car would go way rich every time the thing vented. The car would stumble when I got back on the throttle. I have the small HKS one, and I had the big HKS one, but I let a buddy sell it and he has't replaced it yet. You should hear the thing when it comes up and boost and you shift, it is pretty cool sounding. That turbo XS one is supposed to be a good unit.

If you have the T5 trans, you can get a 300ZXTT pressure plate and have your flywheel redrilled to make it work. Use a disc from an 89 300ZXT, it is the proper diameter and grippier than the TT disc. There are some ribs on the inside of the bellhousing that need to be ground down flush to make room for the larger diameter pressure plate. This combo is hooking me up on drag TA's, and I have dyno'd 307 hp to the rear wheels. Nice thing about this set-up is you can get it at any nissan dealership. Or you can try this link http://nismoparts.safeshopper.com/141/cat141.htm?482 They have what used to be called the sports option pressure plate. I am not a fan of the Centerforce DF due to the wear they put on the flywheel. In my opinion it is easier and cheaper to replace a clutch disc and pressure plate than a flywheel. The DF clutches I have seen run really chew up a flywheel.

That has to be an electronic's issue. The stock ECU's has a switchover point where the injector duty cycle changes from say around 40 percent to 85 percent or something like that. It happens like flipping an on/off switch. I had somewhat of the same issue with my JWT ecu but I got Clark to work on it with me, and now it is pretty much not noticeable. There is more to that story though. They set this ecu way different than stock. Leaness needs to be fixed. I would go ahead and do the fuel pump wiring, and make sure you have a good ground too. Not sure what else to suggest.

Get a peirberg from Cartech. 200 bucks, it is quiet, flows 200 lph, and is encased in rubber.

I was talking with Clark at JWT the other day and they have completed work on a turbo cam for the L series 6. It was completely computer modeled, and they cleared up all the harmonics issue's, and it is ground on a billet that is slightly harder than the stock billets.They put a lot of R&D into it. They also have a single valve spring that will control the valves up to 7500 rpms, and you have to do some retainer work, or buy retainers from them. The springs and retainers are around 120, and the cam is 600 bucks. It has 256 degree's duration at the way the Japanese measure the cam, and around .480 lift.

I had one of those radiators in my 240z with a turbo engine, and it did not keep my car any cooler than a 3 row. A good electric fan would probably help, especially if you can use it as a pusher and put in on the AC condenser. I like the stock Nissan turbo radiator, and I think it does a pretty good job of keeping an engine cool.

Looks good James. You pretty much took advantage of all the usable space in there. I like that intake.

Delco plugs suck. Get some NGK's, ND's, or Bosch's. I really like the Bosch one's. They work well for me.

I don't know about the fart tips, that 5 inch one my buddy stuck on my ZX hasn't gotten me any action.

Well I did some more thinking, and it could be you are way lean too. My plugs have a nice tanish brown color on them. Leaness would make ton's of excess heat, which could be causing the insulators to crack. Scottie, I run 98 BWM M3 dual electrode plugs in mine, since they are easy to index. They are of course a bosch plug, and their systen works alot like NGK's, the higher the number the cooler the plug. If you have NGK's, they should be heat range 7. Whatever your problem, you need to get a handle on it. Good luck.

Well I tend to disagree with that a little. I have moly rings in my engine, and they sealed up quickly. I would put some mileage on the car and see what happens. Depending on how tight your clearances are, it may take a little longer to seal. As long as it doesn't smoke and use oil, you should be ok. Compression is good. Change the oil and drive it some more and see what happens.

The 82-83 ZX trans has the best overdrive, it is a .745, and it is a good match to 3.90's or 3.70's, but its gear spacing is not good for numerically lower gears. You should turn about 3k rpms at 75 mph. The T5 is also good and it has slightly less overdrive, .78. I have this trans in my car right now, and with 3.90's, I run about 70 mph at 3k rpms. I ran more mph when I had 3.56's back there. I get perhaps 20 mpg at best. Probably closer to 15, I can't stay out of the boost. Make sure you don't have a fuel leak too. Datsuns get bad mileage once the rpm's get over 3k, at least that has been my experience. Keep below that, and you should be happier.

I know what you are talking about. The stock Zx fuel injection has a switch over point where the injectors go from about 40 percent duty cycle to 85 percent or whatever it goes to. Once it switches, it pulls really good. Make sure you clean the connections at the ECU very well, and then you need to start doing some tweeking with the AFM, timing, etc to make it better. Maybe raise your fuel pressure a little bit.

That has to be detonation. What do the unbroken one's look like? If they have chips out of the insulator, you have a detonation problem. If you don't get that fixed, you are going to have a nice boat achor for an engine.

The only time you should worry about swapping springs is when the cam lift is over .460 since that is when coil bind sets in, although I have run higher lift cams without problems. I have also swapped cams without swapping rockers, although I did swap lash pads to make the geometry work out. I suspect the main reason to swap is the wear patterns from a different cam cause more valvetrain noise when used on another camshaft. You have to run different retainers if you use more than a .160 lash pad as the stock retainers have problems holding them in place.

That is a stock Z or Zx manifold, and it sucks for turbo duty. When I swapped my manifold like that for a stock turbo one, I picked up boost.

Nothing is coming up.

Sounds like you guys may be talking about Steve, at least I think that is his name. Seems like I run into people like that all the time that say you can't do something. I don't blame you for not wanting to deal with them. I have had the same issue with Jim Wolf at JWT. He may really know his stuff, but I do not like talking with him, and only talk with Clark. I told Clark one day I did not like talking to Jim. But I can see why they can get to be that way. I well known shop probably gets a million calls from people who are lulu's. I am sure it is frustrating for them, especially if you are not buying anything from them. I went thru alot of that with my webers and TWM induction, and ended up buying almost everything from AEM since they were nicer to me. I am not an ASE certified master mechanic, but I am not stupid either, and if someone will just explain something, then I am there. Good luck with those webers. I miss mine sometimes.

If you mixed some isopropl alcohol with your water, it would evaporate. Have to have a good sealed res for the fluid though.

Sorry but I don't buy the auto ZX turbo is faster than the 5 speed. Not a stock one anyway. Maybe with more hp I would buy it. The maxima auto will not live for long behind a turbo engine. They are limited to about 200 HP, and the turbo makes 180 stock, and can make 240 with a couple of mods. I think I want to borrow that G tech and run my car with it.

Hate to bust your bubble, but if it is a diesel turbo, the turbine housing AR is going to be way to large for your engine, unless you have a ncie sized V-8. That doesn't mean you can't spec out the turbine wheel and get a smaller AR housing, just means you are going to have to buy a housing. I saw some rebuild kits on ebay, and would suggest you do a search on google or something to find a kit. Also a T4 requires an external wastegate, and that costs money too.

I am not sure what you call them, but they are the bolts on the backside of the compressiir housing, not the bearing section. Don't loosen them very much and you will be ok.

Call Clark at JWT, he would know I bet.

Well you can all thank the liberal left for dumbing down our kids. after all, smart people like us can see what is really going on, but unfortunately, we are being out bred. I hate to admit this, but when I get up in the morning, I usually watch Springer if nothing good is on HBO, and they have had a rash of brothers and sisters who sleep with each other on lately. How freakin' sad is that? You have to be a dumb ass to do that. Of course those of us from Auburn usually ask this question as a joke about Alabama fans. If a man and woman get married, and 5 years later get a divorce, are they still brother and sister. HAHA As for the black guys. You know that is tough. I did not get to pick how I was born and what color I am, but if you want to be mad, why not be mad at your fellow brothers in africa for selling you in the first place. My family was all from up north, so we never had any slaves, and I hate to lumped into a category. Personally I think people who dwell on stuff like that are to lazy to go out and make something for themselves. If you work hard and get an education, it doesn't matter what color you are, you will be successful. On that note, I think I am going to get online and check my portfolio at Soloman Barney Frank.