Lockjaw

Is it a 4 cyl? If so try Majestic turbo or Cartech out in Texas. You could also call Jim Wolf Technology, they should be able to help too.

I would also go with the hybrid turbo, the cost would not be that much more since you don't have a core turbo. You could probably come up with a stock ecu fairly inexpensively and at least get the car up and running. I can tell you compared to a JWT set-up or aftermarket EFI set-up, the stock one sucks. You can work with it some and make it better. I would also do the intercooler and a 3 inch exhaust. The exhaust probably helps the most since it is a building block for all other mods. Doesn't matter how big a turbo you put on there if you can't get the exhaust out, it isn't going to run very good. You are welcome to call Ira or Steve at 334-742-0789 and see if they have an ECU laying around. Good luck.

Cody that looks nice to me. I have got to get working on mine too. I would be careful with the humps in the runners. If you take to much out there, you could end up with a crack, and that would tend to suck. Most of the people I have heard talk about hogging out the exhaust manifold have removed alot of material where you did.

Bob I said in my first post the car ran 8.40's. It did. If you want some details, I will give you some details. It was a rebuilt flat top ZX engine we picked up for 50 bucks that had a rod knock. The guy took it to a "bubba" machine shop, had it honed, resized the rods, polished the crank, and he put it back together. The head was milled 110 thousandths, and not shimmed. He ran SU's at first with a crower 290 duration .490 lift cam that I can get you part number on if you would like. He had a MSA header 6 into 1, 2.5 inch exhaust with a sonic turbo muffler, and 3.90 gears with the ZX 5 speed with the .745 over drive. That is it. He later went to my webers, a 3 inch exhaust, and 4.08 gears, which is what he ran 8.40's with. Thats it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! There was no special tuning, he didn't lighten the car, nothing. No port matching, nothing special about it at all. I mentioned the vericom because that was all we had at the time, and I don't believe the numbers on the vericom any more than I believe the 0 to 60 calculator I plugged my ZX into and it said I run 3.79 seconds to 60. It is merely a device to give you and IDEA of where you are. Hard numbers are better, I don't disagree. But either I can say the vericom says it made 240 hp, or I can say something like, I think it makes X amount of horsepower since we never put the car on a dyno. What I will say about the car is this. I have never been in a normally aspirated car that pulled as hard as that one did. I ran that cam in my car with a E88 head, and it wouldn't fall out of a tree. Maybe he had a really good combination, and when he put the engine together everything just clicked, I don't really know.All I do know is this, the thing got down, and it was very powerful for what it was. So conviced are myself and another witness that we are both building flat top bottom ends, I am going to run the P79, my friend the P90. We will both have 3 in to 2 into 1 headers, likely the same exhaust, our cams will be within a few degree's of each other and ground by the same grinder. Yeah not quit apples to apples, but my friend has access to any head he wants, and he is running a P series. I am not sure where you came up with this "higher level" deal you are talking about, all I know is a guy put a post out there asking for opinions, and I gave mine. Like it or not it stands. If you think the N42 is better, fine thats your opinion. I happen to not share it, and if you would like me to change my mind, you will have to do more than argue with me on a board. I would also like to clear up a couple other items too. First, I don't really care if someone lacks the knowledge to properly set-up a head. Thats not my problem, thats their problem. Second, I don't really care about wether or not someone has good or bad driving skill at the dragstrip either. If you suck at the drag strip, practice and get better. All you do is muddy the waters when you start throwing stuff out there like that. Finally, I don't really care about Sunbelts reputation either. If you want to spend your money there, go ahead. Personally, I would rather be able to say my car is fast and I built the motor instead of saying, Hey I paid Sunbelt 10 grand to build me a 300 hp NA engine. Personal attack? Nope, just one guys opinion. If you want to continue to argue, send me an email, the board is not here to argue on.

Bob since you are in VA, go by and see Rob at the Z doc. If Rob is still there, he should be able to tell what's up with the P79 head. All of the stuff "we" did with the P79 was back 10 or more years ago, and to be honest, I am not sure there were dynojets widely available at the time. We did not care about what a machine said at the time, we cared about what the car did. The guys car ran 8.40's in the 1/8th mile. While I am certain there are some NA guys out there who can run that fast or faster, that is still getting down. As for setting up the valve geometry, I don't really care if the average Joe can't handle setting up his head. I can handle mine, and if someone has questions, email me and I will walk them thru it. As for the cars, they had the same flat top engines, same trannys, same diff's, same diameter rims, hell they even had the same header. The E31 was unshrouded to BTW. All I am really saying is I have seen with my own eye's what the P79 can do. Have you? Yeah I may not have hard data, but I have seen it with my own eyes, and that is all I need to know. So anyway, you can believe me or not. Those who have taken the effort to try the P series head know what the deal is. If you choose not to try and believe, more power to ya.

We have a guy down in Au with an Auto SS that runs 12.07's, and it just has some bolt ons and 3.23 gears. He runs like mid 7's in the 1/8th mile. Those cars are wicked. Good kill Scotty. Maybe you need to see about getting a little more overdrive or a taller rear gear.

Make it a turbo diesel, and put and auto in it, intercool it and run more boost and I bet it would fly. I think it would be interesing to find one of the Nissan inline diesels and turbo it if it is not alreayd turbo. Diesels last forever, and they like turbo's too.

Well I know there are alot of you E and N series head fans out there, and you can believe what you want to believe but I have seen two identical cars one with an E31 head that was milled and unknown amount, and a P79 milled 45 thousandths go at it, and while it was close, the P79 head car could pull away even shifting at 5500rpms, far short of the 7k that most Hipo datsun cams pull to. I am also aware that people all have different opinions, and that is fine, but what is so hard about setting up the valve geometry. For a hipo cam you have to have springs, so get retainers that are not stock, and increase the lash pad the same thickness as you shim the cam towers. As for my friends car, according to a vericom, it was making 240 hp with SU's, and I can guarantee you they were not setup like Norms are. This was a simple mill the head 110 thousandths and throw a big cam in it and go. When he converted to webers, they were 40 mm webers with 33 mm chokes. He started out at 28, but I convinced him to try my 33's since I had dialed them in and knew how to jet them. His car was every bit a match for a turbo car, the one he had previously raced and lost to, with a stock turbo, big exhaust, cartech fpr, Conquest intercooler, and 14 or so psi. That turbo car ended up running very low 13's at the drag strip at mph that would make Norm green with envy. As for square ports, get the P90 head. It has the same conbustion chamber as the P79. Nissan put a lot of development work into the P series heads, they flow well, have a nice closed combustion chamber, and a high swirl design, like almost every high performance head on the market today for any car that is OHV. So if you consider someone with an unported head, stock bottom end, 290 duration cam, with 33 mm chokes in webers a race car, then I guess his car wasn't that fast. He sure put it on some people though. Anyway, I have my head set-up, and will hopefully have the bottom end yanked out and honed out soon, so I will report back. Believe me, if I thought any other head other than a P series would run better on my car, I would have it. If you haven't tried one, you should.

I doubt the single turbo conversion on that ZXTT is cheaper than getting two upgraded turbo's. That is one of the tightest engine bays out there. On the supra, generally, twins make slightly less power than the one single, but the one single takes longer to spool up. So it is sort of a trade off, and you have to decide what you want. I had a friend that had a ZXTT with JWT sport 550 turbo's, and all the supporting mod's, and on pump gas it was a brutal feeling car. It ran thru the gears like a motorcylce does. He ran a 12.5 at 115 or so at the strip with it. BUt he just drove it to the track, and ran it. No adjusting of the boost, no cooldown, no race fuel. Just pump gas with a hot motor on street tires. I think his 1/8th was 8.0 at 91 mph. Pretty impressive times in my opinion. The word on ZXTT's to is to have the exhaust manifolds extrudehoned. Supposed to improve flow by 40 percent. GN's just flat rock. They have good developement people working on them all the time pushing the envelope.

What hoses? Vacuum, coolant?

What about the Targa or MOnza exhaust Victoria Bristish and/or MSA sells? I would think they would have a more European souond.

I thought we had someone on the board working on a header for us turbo guys. That is a lot of dough to spend for a header, and I wonder if we could just not make our own for that kind of money. You big money guys have at it, I will wait and see.

I am interested in that as well. I heard JTR had one, but I did not have any luck locating one on their website.

I have lots of questions myself. TimZ, I am sure the cars pictured and the turbo are not the ones on the 9 second car. I think those were just pictues showing thier work, and the products they have available. I would like to see the thing in turbo mag so I could get a better look at the car itself.

I was the one who asked that queston. I had concerns about it splitting because so much material was removed? They said no problems yet.

You should probably make an effort to get the det sensor connected, that would help. You could have gotten a bad tank of gas. Throw a can of octane boost in it and see if it goes away. I believe 300ZXT's used different injectors depending on what year model. You could look into that as well. I have a fried who could run upwards to 10 psi on his stock 300ZXT with no detonation issues.

I have an old manual one I bought from John Meyers turbo specialties. Some of the electronic one's have trouble over 20 psi. Make sure you do your homework. The turbo xs ones are supposed to be good units. They are very easy to adjust.

I would think you would be looking at some major ceramic coating. I just hate the idea of getting stranded, or worse yet loosing a race due to a leak. You know how it feels when an intercooler line pops when you are really moving and on boost. It sucks. The cool thing is an intercooler line can be put back on, a big burnt hole in your intake cannot. I would like to see pictures as well, and wonder what James thoughts are on the heat generated by the turbo. Could the intake be sheilded properly?

I wish my L28 started with 135 RWHP.

Well I have a buddy that has done the conversion, so I guess if he can't tell me or show, I will either be spending some money with Ross, or not going to CV axles. Actually, when I turbo the 260 CV axles are a must. I guess I could take the drawing to my machinist and see what he says. I will look into a "group price".

Man that is some wild ride. Who set up your boat? My gut feeling is one of two things are a problem. One, you caught a gust of air, or your boat needs to be re-balanced so you don't have to trim it as much to get the speed out of it. With your HP you should be able to break the century mark, but you have to be really careful with a tunnel boat. They fly, literally. I want a V-king with a promax. Now that is my idea of fun.

I have a lot of questions for them myself. My opinion on the turbo based upon the look of the compressor wheel is that it is a T series type wheel of some sort. I don't know how you could suck 700 rwhp worth of air thru the stock AFM either. Unless they have figured out how to disconnect the rev limiter, they would be pretty much stuck at about 6500 rpms, so they could not have that radical of a cam. I found the guy on Zcar.com advertising in the items for sale section. I could send them a book full of questions, and if I could see the car in person, perhaps that would help.

Maybe you just don't know the right machine shop. I have a 260 with the thin bumpers, so what stub axle do I have? If I have the 240 one's, all I need to do is swap the stubs for zx ones and throw in the cv axles right?

In front of the turbo. The stuff gets sucked up and run through the system.

P79 milled 80 thousandths, or P90 milled the same. A friend ran 8.40's with a P79, a cam, header, and webers. In the 8th mile. He had a bigger cam (290 duration) and milled 110 thousandths but that is to much for the street. No N series, no matter what people say, the P series is the best. I should have mine on and running soon, I will report back.