Lockjaw

I would definitely be interested in hearing abolut that turbo with the stage V turbine wheel to. Partucularily when it starts spooling and when it is at full boost.

Damn I am getting an education. The MAF is from a 93 Mustang cobra if that helps, and it is made by Hitachi. That is what I bought for my car. I might have the box laying around the house somewhere, but I doubt it. Where is the part number on the unit and I can tell you when I get home? Clark told me about raising the fuel pressure, because I had concerns about maxing out their set-up at 450 hp, which I assume is at the flywheel not the wheels. I have got to get a new turbo too, and am not sure which one to go to. I don't want some laggy pig that makes mega power from 4500 to 6500. Mine is at full boil by 2800, and when it hits, it hits hard. I could wait until about 3500 for full boost, but beyond that in my ZX, and I will have to play catch-up, and get my head lights sucked out if I am not careful until the boost comes on. Been there with the rotomaster, not going back. I was thinking about going to a T04E 50 ar with a 60-1 and a 10 blade stage III in a .63 or .82 T3 housing. I figure the 10 blade is worth some flow over my 11 blade unit. Anyway, what about running a dummy MAF like they do on the twin pop charger units for the 300 ZXTT? Seems like it would be simple to fab up. Taht would effectively double your intake flow.

I have the Peirburg and I like it. I have used a walbro, although I do not know what one, and we had problems with them dealing with higher fuel pressures, but they flowed more than a stock fp. The wiring is a good idea, and I have found that a good ground at the fuel pump does a good job of improving performance. I think ZXT's control the fuel pump thru positive power, and 300ZXT's control it thru the ground. Not sure, but I think that is the case. Another option is to get one of the voltage riser deals and wire it up back there and shoot 14 to 18 volts at the pump and see what it does. I have had no problems with my peirberg, and at boost pressures up to 18 or so psi I was having rock solid fuel pressure at 60 psi or so. It also coped with my Cartech rising rate of gain FPR when I was using that route, the walbro would not deal with the pressures required.

The biggest problem with the T5 is people shifting into 3rd gear to hard, and doing the same in 4th. 4th gear can be "over extended" which causes these little pieces of metal to get spit out into the bottom of the trans. They go back in, but you have to take it apart. If you over extend 4th gear and you are lucky, third and fourth just "crunch" when you shift. If you are unlucky, your stay stuck in 4th gear. As a side not from personal experience, I have the T5, and for the most part I like it. I had some trouble at the drag strip last time hitting 5th gear in a hurry, although I don't think the tranny suffered any ill results from it. I have heard differing opinions on whether or not the Jap trans can handle the power of a stout turbo L6. MY feeling is kind of like this. If Nissan thought their transmission was sturdy enough to go behind the engine, they would have put it there. Since they chose not to, I am assuming that it is better to run the T5. Just get a T5 aftermarket shifter with shift stops, and go with it. Also, run good fluid, and don't speed shift it and it should last a long time.

My webers (DCOE 40's) did not like the F16 emulsion tube, and switching to F11's made a huge difference. As I was reading down the story, I knew as soon as I saw what the pump jet was it was to small. Glad to hear you got the thing sorted out.

I have talked with Clark at length about the limitations of the system. I am assuming you are running the Mustang Cobra MAF like I am. I am pretty certain that the MAF will continue to accept votage beyond 5.15 volts, or whatever the limit is of the ecu. Clark said they could program a step in there, whatever that means. Another option he talked about was rasing the fuel pressure to 4 bar. I have a fuel pump that can handle that sort of pressure. I would rather just bump up the injector size, to 550's, which I think they can accomodate as well. There is another ecu option too. In Sports Compact Car, they had a 300zx turbo that used an infinity ecu that has 2 timers, which allows quasi sequential fuel injection on 3 cylinders at a time. In other words, batch firing 3 cyclinders all the way thru the rpm band versus mine switching over to 6 injector batch firing at 49% capicity since I have one timer. I am going to try this cam I found and see what it does. It has to be better than stock since it is a little larger. I really need something that goes out to about 6500rpms without falling over flat, and you can feel the stock one in my car just doesn't have it. Since I put 3.90's in the back, the thing stays on my rev limiter at 7k, and it is rough trying to shift it fast and keep it off the limiter. T5 and 3.90's means shifting a lot. I need to go to the auto deal and see what that does for me. If you grind some cams, I would be interested.

Which one do you have, the Schneider? What do you think about 218 degree's at .050 and .428 lift with negative overlap and 110 degree lobe centers?

I agree with Scottie. You can upgrade the Ecu thru JWT to run larger injectors, which would help, or you could get a stand alone like the Tec II or the SDS. No matter which way you go, you are going to have to get larger injectors. I would skip the NPR intercooler and get a spearco.

Jeff it sounds like your story has some merit, and maybe you should grind some cams and sell them. I don't know if the spec's are exactly the same, and I am no expert on cams, but 42 degree's of overlap on a turbo cam? That seems like a lot to me. If they stole your design, I think that sucks. I recall the recer brown story also, because I asked about a turbo cam several years ago. As for JWT, the only person I deal with out there is Clark. I have a nice relationship with him, and he has always been more than helpful with things I have asked about, beyond the ECU I got. James, I agree with you that a stand alone is a better way to go. Since I have never driven/riden in a car with a stand alone, I have no info to even make a conclusion about them. I know my set-up runs much better than the stock ZX fuel injection that came on the turboZX. The money I spent on my set up would have covered the cost of a stand alone, but I did not have a laptop, so that put that out of my reach at the time. It may not be the best way to go, but I made 307hp to the rear wheels on a stock motor with forged pistons, and T04b hybrid. I did not do any tuning on the car, just went down and dyno'd it. I am certain it is capable of more than that with a more efficient turbo, which is next on the list. Yeah it is not 400+ like you and TimZ put down, but I don't have a big T series turbo or 2 16G's. I think my car run's pretty strong for a fully loaded ZX, and feel quite certain it would have run a 12.5 or so thru the 1/4 mile with a few runs at night. I didn't and still don't have the money to spend on my toys like some of you guys, so I make due with what I have. I am sure one day I will have a stand alone, but until then, I will be using the JWT set-up. Jeff I would be interested in more info on the final design of your cam when you get there.

Plus with a 240, you don't need to make totally insane hp to go fast. I look at compression this way, within reason, the lower it is, the more boost you can run. If you are going to buy injectors, I would buy 550's instead of 440's. More potential. I would also go with a 3 inch DP. Spend the money where it counts, really good machine work, and it should last for a long time. Good luck

I don't think any one ever made the claim that the JWT cam was the "magic stick". They also have cam levels or stages on alot of their other cams stating what works with them, etc. I agree a grand is a lot of money to throw down for a cam for a turbo car that may not add as much hp as spending a grand upgrading a turbo, but it is a bigger than stock cam, and I have found I would like some extra powerband, and the stock cam is just not giving me that. I guess it just depends on what you want. I just wanted to put the word out there and let everyone know it was available. Since I have a JWT ecu setup on my ZX, Clark knows if the cam would work for me.

I want one so bad, I think the supercharged one would be the way to go. Snatch that SC off and strap a turbo on it and go racing. They say they really handle nicely.

NO that is Paul, and I am supposed to help him install the JWT set-up, but I don't think he is ever going to pick it up from Ira. I wonder if you are not having a problem with that relay since the car fires when you mess with it. You also have the wiring for the fuseable links over there too. I wish I had my copies of the harness, but my bud has them. I guess I need to get them back. I would get the harness problem situated. No sense chasing a ghost when you start with the SDS. You really need a factory manual so you can test the components.

Is the guy hiding bidders names yet? They had a guy on another major DSM board that busted one of these guys be emailing the winner and telling her she was essentially a "dumb ass". After that, they started hiding the bidders names. Read feedback on the people before you bid.

Stock crushed is 1 mm isn't it? I thought that is what I read in the hotrod datsun book.I would not worry about shimming anything with that mild of a change. Shims come in either 15 or 20 thousandths, depending on where you get them. 1 mm is 40 thousandths. I have about 1mm taken off my combo between the block being decked and the head cleaned up. I have not shimmed anything, and I have no problems. Besides if you shim, you have to change your lash pads, and you have to increase the thickness by the same amount as you shim. Not worth the effort for that small a change. If you are concerned about the cam being retarded, put it in the number 2 hole on the timing gear.

Dude, more info would be helpful. For instance, are you currently fuel injected, if so, is it stock fuel injection? What are you going to do to control larger fuel injectors, etc. The stock nissan fuel pressure regulator is fine. Remove the vaccuum line and it should show 36 psi. If you want an adjustable one the works the same as the stock one except it is adjustable, Jim Wolf technology has a bosch one. I use it and it works well. Those are big injectors to run off stock fuel injection. Hope you have some plans for taking care of that.

Mine are set at 3 psi right now, according to my summit fuel pressure gauge. The regulator is set at 4 psi. Not sure what is up with that, but I enlarged the hole in the return line of my fuel rail so it would flow all the time. Keeps the gas cool, and the fuel filter full as well.

Sounds to me like that guy paid that shop to "learn" how to program fuel injection. There are lots of options out there. I think Accel even has ecu's that replace factory GM one's now. You should not have any problems.

Stock lash pads are 120 to 133. Not sure, Clark and I were debating that the other day when he was telling me about the cam. I am happy to hear your Schneider is not the NA cam. As I said, I tried their split profile NA cam in a turbo engine for fun, and it ran like dookey. What I found interesting, is that these cams most people grind are copies of an original design, from the 60's. While I am sure they have computer modeled their cnc machines, technology has improved so much with computers and everything, that the new grind JWT has must really rock. I know from reading articles about stuff that run their cams, nothing makes more power than the JWT cams in a Nissan that I can recall. OF course the 600 dollar entrance fee is kind of steep. Anyway, would like to hear the results of your testing with the Schneider once you get it installed. I may have some news to report in that area myself once I get my turbo fixed.

Check the little ignitor thing that goes between the coil and the wiring. Not sure what it is called, but it has two wires going into it. Yeah I know that helps. It should be connected to the coil bracket on a stock coil. I have some "creative" wiring done on my 260 that I am going to have to fix, and evidently it must have had the same problem, because the previous owner "fixed" it. I have a replacement harness that I am going to put in and see if I can't get it wired back properly. when I get around to it, I will let you know what I find. Oh yeah, I forgot, you do have the one yellow wire that connects to the harness down by the ecu connected and run to the coil right? That would keep it from firing.

You need to understand that it is not the rods that you really need to be worrying about, it is the crank. You run into resonance problems. Get ARP rod bolts, and shotpeen everything. I would make sure my tolerances on the pistons were on the tight side, and use a good oil. You must also balance the entire rotating assembly, and I would shim the oil pump to get some extra pressure. They say 10 psi per thousand rpms. We built some engines we routinely turned anywhere from 7 to 8k, and they will do it, but it is rough on rings. The lighter you make everything the better. If it were me, I would spend my money on a turbo and make more power, and run less rpms to do it. I went to a turbo after going thru several NA engines, and it has been much better. But I am working on an NA project just long enough to spank a few folks and then it gets the turbo treatment. If you are going to spend the money on forged pistons, why limit yourself to natural aspiration.

They want to much, try here instead. http://nismoparts.safeshopper.com/35/cat35.htm?482 This is the cheapest nismo site I have found on the web.

What kind of engine? Nissan six is easy to fuel inject. Just depends how you want to go about it. Fuel injection is the way to go if you can swing it.

Yes Cody the disc is a stock one, but it is the same diameter as the TT and made of a grippier material. I did not figure this out on my own, Clark let me in on that secret. 915 KG is a seriously stout clutch. A stock 300ZXTT is 780 to 800 KG, so that one has alot more clamoing force. Figure 2.2 psi per KG, that one has an additional 200+psi of clamping force. I think the larger diameter disc helps too. Since mine is 250mm versus 240, I think that is more surface area to try and slip. I know the 225 mm sports option pressure plate is easier to get to slip, my friends have run that on a turbo car with issues. Run it and see. Its only money.

Well I have come up with a couple more options. First, make sure you have the right distributor support. I have a 260 with a zx engine, and you have to use the distributor support from the 260 unless you use the zx distributor. My timing was way off. Also, your balancer timing mark may not be in the right place. Mine is not. Evidently it s common for those to move after time. I would also get rid of the mechanical pump. The are just not up to feeding a bigger engine. I have some sort of loud electric on mine, likely a holley, and a regulator, and I picked up a 240 fuel rail and plumbed the return line, and it keeps my fuel filter full, there is not any air in there. The fuel stays cooler too. Get your SU's set and then see what happens. Could be time for a cap and rotor to.