Lockjaw

I got the stainless line on drivers side front, and put the brake shims in the caliper, and have all that back together. While I had the wheel off, I thought replacing the worn out end link bushings with urathane ones would be a good idea, but I have to loosen the other side so I can move the sway bar. I got to say, those Toyo calipers look nice on there, especially with the stainless lines. I think I am going to put my stainless clutch line on too. At some point, I need to run out to Dave;s house and get Ricks engine hoist so the engine can come out, and get Dave's engine stand. Then I need to grind out my turbo exhaust manifold to free up some HP when I get a turbo for it. Call me.

Well as tough a time as I had at the track last time with hittng the rev limiter, I imagine your problem is worse. I had mine set at 7k, and with the 3.90's and the T5, I was on the limiter in the first 3 gears. At least it is not as abrupt as the stock limiter. We need a billet aluminum underdrive pulley from Unorthodox Racing. Seems to me with as much popularity as the L6 has, someone would come up with something. Wonder if the dampner from a Skyline would work?

That would be a good start. Be nice if it had a big fuel pump, intercooler, bigger injectors, and an ecu upgrade. Oh yeah, and a fresh motor. Hope your checking account has a lot of money in it, or your credit card has a high unused balance.

That is not much. I have some forged pistons here that came out of a turbo engine Hesco built if you want to measure them. One has a hole in it, so it shouldn't be hard. For that matter, we can cut it in half if you want. What about cutting less off and using the thicker HKS gasket? I would do whatever I had to do to keep the top thick, even running less boost. You could coat the tops with a thermal barrier, that may help. Let me know about the piston.

Well the stage V wheel is worth at least 75 hp over the stage III according to turblonetics. That would put you close to 500, and you still can go to the .82 housing, and if you extrudehoned the housing, perhaps you can get close to the HP you want. I have got to say, I have gotten a lot of static about the JWT set-up and it is nice to see someone bust out some big numbers with it, and a HYBRID TURBO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Congrats on the numbers. The dampner is a weak link, my friend said he has been seeing alot of it in his shop. My 260 was reading in excess of 60 advanced until I did a crude top dead center check and marked the dampner again. Nice huh? Big turbo guys, I think a little is in order.

Uh oh, I think mine is going to have an appointment with a grinder or dremel. I have not ground my manifold at all. Free power here I come. Now all I need is a turbo.

You need to skip the 160 degree thermostat. That last of the cold start enrichment circuits shuts of at a coolant temp of about 170 degree's. Datsuns like to have warm coolant. Make sure your radiator cap is in good shape and I would pressure test the system and see what you find. It may be time for a radiator flush. Mine does not cope with the hot temps and Ac either. I have a 16 inch electric fan with an intercooler sitting right in front of the condensor. I need to have mine cleaned out.

Use Bosch twin electrode plugs for a 98 bmw M3/ that is what I use, they work great and are easy to index. I am using the platinum ones right now and was having no issue's up to 22 psi with a stock 300ZX coil. Remember the Nissan FI is made by Bosch.

See now I have always wondered about the answer to this question. What if you just cut the base of an old distributor off? I know it would look tacky, but it would at least offer some sort of support for the shaft. You could always check with Top End and see what they do on the cars they put tec units on. They may have fabbed up some part for it.

Well I think extrude hone is about 550 bucks, and their is no question they can work some majic on the manifold. I think you are on the right track with what you planned. I think there is a little lip in there behind the flange that I would make sure I smoothed out. The ports are funky shaped I think mainly to give clearance to the mounting bolts. I had planned on working on those on my T4 flanged manifold, but decided against it. To much work.

8 gauge wire huh? What is that like, a battery cable? That fuel pump out to be able to run for a few seconds after you shut it off. Hope you run well at the track. Like to see you get down into the low 12's or high 11's.

For the record, James, I am not talking about Walker. In fact, speaking of Walker, he recommended the stage V wheel to me when I saw him in May. We had some discussion about turbo's and such, and I expect he has learned some more info since getting into the DSM crowd. I do not recall though if he recommended the stage V wheel versus the wheel he ran in that funky turbo he made. I never was sure if he had a P trim, or if it was some wheel from a Komatsu or what it was. I don't want to trash someone's business on this open forum, yet, but suffice to say, I am not going to do business with a turbo shop when I have very good info from people I trust that their work lacks quality control. If anyone would like to know to whom I am referring, send me a personal email and I will tell you. But I am not going to trash them out here. Now if I bought something from them and it breaks, that is another story. Man I just want to go fast, why is it so difficult?

Now you are getting WAY too advanced for me. I just want to go fast, and I need a turbo. I guess since I don't want 600 Hp I can go with a stage V. I also think the Nissan European housing is a .82 AR. I am not sure there is that much difference in the different nissan housing's beyond that. At least that was my understanding from talking with Clark at JWT. He suggested I try and locate one of those, except it won't work with my downpipe since I have a turbonetics style swing valve assembly. I also have the block off plate to run an external wastegate, and will likely do that soon too.

I appreciate your input Tim, and everyone else's as well. As I said, I have a T4 manifold, so I can go either way on a turbo. As for Reed, I have nothing but respect for him. He is a nice guy. That said, my current turbo has lasted over 4 years with nothing but abuse. It has never been under 15 psi, except when I drove it home from the muffler shop. Right now a simple rebuild would fix what ails it. I kind of like it has lasted that long. I expect my next turbo to last that long as well. I don't care if someone warranties their turbo's and has good customer service if their turbo's break. Taking my turbo off is a pain in the neck. If the person who built my turbo was still with us, I would have no problem having him build me another one. Since he is not, I have to find someone else.

Clint comparing two different turbos with two different boost levels is not even close to making a valid comparison. Heck I would hope my hybrid would trounce a stock turbo wherever it acheives its max boost. I think both Jeff and I have said we would be ok with 3500 rpms, we don't like the 4500 rpm figure James threw out there. Imagine how much of a pig a 3100 pound car would be if the turbo did not make much boost until 4500 rpms. Yeah it would be fast when you were on it, but part throttle around town would be soggy at best, unless you ran higher compression. It is different when you compare a 240z to a 280zx. I had a pig of a turbo before, and I liked it when it was boosting, but when it wasn't it sucked. With a T5, there was no short shifting on the first to second shift, or it would drop off boost. So you end up with the following on the street. In between first and second, when you would normally shift, you are way away from boost. Suppose someone besides you decides that is a good time to hit it. What are your choices? Shove it up into 1st and spin and hit the rev limiter, or leave it in second and wait and wait and wait for the boost to get there? Both options suck. I usually chose the second one, and when I did catch the person, I went by them, but you know, by the top of third gear I am going close to a hundred. Yeah I went by them like they were going backwards, but it is kind of a hollow victory. Kind of like the 11 second DSM I raced at Steele a while back. He was on slicks, I was on drag TA's, and I beat him thru the 1/8th. OF course he put it on me in the next 1/8th. One the street where I can run my drag ta's and he can't run his slicks, how long do you think it will take him to catch me? He likely won't. What is ok with one of us, may not be with others. Yeah I think pounding out 600hp on a dyno would be nice to brag about, but if it has a very narrow powerband, it is not a fun street car. I would rather have less HP and a fun car. I have not ridden in either James's or Tim's car, so I don't know what they run like. I might find after a ride on Tim's Z that it is plenty driveable, but he hasn't chimed in and said anything yet. I saw his dyno graph, and it is impressive. I might decide I could deal with the lag to get that kind of HP, but without riding in his car, I can't say I like the idea. I am not taking anything away from them or what they have done. what they can accept I may not be able to. It would be nice to know what these guys run too. I mean big HP numbers are nice, but what do their cars really run. I want to run 11's all day long, and figure I need about 100 more HP to get there. Then I can put all that stuff in my 260, drop about 500 pounds or so of dead weight, and run a little better.

JeffP I am not sure if you know this or not, but after lunch, they won't let anyone talk to Clark out there. I always try to call him about 10am. If he keeps dodging you, let me know and I will call him and ask him about flowing the MAF. I have talked with him about it before, he knows I need a new turbo, and he would not expect me to be asking about stuff like that. Not saying I have pull or anything, just that I seem to always be able to get thru to him. besides, I want to ask him about going a little larger on injectors or bumping the fuel pressure anyway. Let me know about the dyno results too. James, I am serious about the P trim. If it will be boosted by 3500 and not be restricted to boost that early, tell me who to call. LJ

James who are you getting your turbo's thru that it is that cheap? I need one. I don't want to create to much of a stir here, but it seemed to me like the picture of TimZ's engine had a stock manifold on it, and he is making big power. Granted he had a big external wastegate mounted where the turbo normally goes. I also recall his power seemed to head downhill after about 6k too. I think the thing JeffP and I don't like is the wait until 4500 rpms to make decent power. Jeff has a light flywheel, and a huge turbo is not going to work with the flywheel and launching a heavier car, IMO. Besides you are talking about 2500 rpms worth of powerband, whereas the hybrid would have 3500 rpms or better. I would hate to have a turbo car that I had to drive like I stole it for it to move on the street. If I can get a P trim with a 60-1 or a 62-1 in it that will be fully boosted by 3500 rpms, then I will buy one of those instead of a hybrid, just tell me who to call. I have a manifold set up for a T4 anyway. But waiting until 4500, no thanks. Not with a street car. Besides we have an 11 second hybrid equipped car that managed that feat at 5600 ft above sea level. Seems to me that if he can do it, we can do it too. I would like to see him and one of you guys go at it in the 1/4 mile. Might be interesting. Oh, and the stage V has a heavier shaft than a stage III. At least according to Turbonectics and Jaime at MJM.

The compressor is a 50 trim or the housing is a 50 ar? A 50 trim is not to big a wheel. I would like to see what your runs produce though. If you get the chance, ask Clark what turbo you have. I kind of suspect you have the 60 trim T04e wheel. James is ok. He and I have had some in depth discussions on the merits of running a big turbo, and I think his contentions are fairly accurate. However, I had a big rotomaster T4 on my car when I first put it together, and it sucked. It made great power when it was up on boost, but it took a long time to get there. I could ease out to passs someone in 3rd gear about 50 mph and I would be by the car and pulled back in about the time the boost came up. I did not get to buzz people like I can with the hybrid. Plus the ZX is a heavier car than his 240, and we cannot increase our displacement beyond 3.1 liters to make up for the extra weight. The difference is technology. My rotomaster was a T04B, and so is my hybrid. The newer T04e wheels and housings are much more efficient and that helps them make big power. On top of that, the newer 10 blade turbine wheels are more efficient too, which means a hybrid can crank out some power that formerly only a full T4 could do. As for what JWT charges, there is a reason you pay more. They dyno their stuff, so when you buy it, you know what it can do. I would encourage working with Clark, he seems more open to working with me on pricing.

Don't get all frustrated James. The stage V wheel is a new wheel with improved aerodynamics, and 10 blades. It is not a 20 year old design, or it would have been out before now. While I cannot speak for Jeff, I don't want a turbo that is a slow spooling pig for a car I want to drive on the street. The stage V wheel has a 2.7 in inducer and a 2.5 in exducer, so it is a good sized wheel. I think the P trim is roughly the same size exducer with a 3 in inducer. Since we are both using the JWT set-up, we have to have a turbo that works with the 80 mm maf. It seems to me it would suck to have a 4 inch inlet on the compressor with an 80mm maf. If we had some sort of speed density set-up like you, things would be different. Jeff made 380 hp to the wheels so he is definitely making power. HIs torque numbers were up there too. Not to shabby in my book, especially for a hybrid. Besides, going to a full T4 means revamping everything in my system, and I don't want to do that yet.

The DSM guys are fond of Forced Performance. I have talked with them, and they will build anything you want for 900 bucks or so. Here is a link. http://www.forcedperformance.net/ We also have Jaime who advertises on here too. http://www.mjmturbos.com/ Jaime quoted me 750 for a hybrid with a stage V, 360 degree thrust bearing, and 60-1 in a T04 E housing. I don't know anyone who has gotten a turbo from Jaime yet, so I can't say anything good or bad about him. HAs JWT ever told you what turbo you have, ie a sport XYZ? They usually have names for all of theirs.

Reed who? From turbo specialties? Wheels don't have AR ratio's, housings do. I am not sure how to respond to your question except to say a larger AR ratio housing spools slower and makes more topend power. Jeff I may be interested in the turbo depending on what it is and what it costs. I am scared to let turbonetics build a turbo for me. I know of to many people who have bought from them only to have the turbo fail in short order. Who is our expert turbo builder now? Anybody have a rec?

Who are you going to get to build your turbo? I need one built. I have a ford housing right now, and it is not very big. My T04B housing is a 60 AR rotomaster, and it sits about 1/4 inch from the exhaust manifold. In fact I cannot even clock the compressor housing with the turbo on the manifold. I think the turbonetics housings are bigger, not sure though. I am thinking the stage V is the way to go, but only want a 60-1 or 62-1 compressor wheel in a T04e 50 AR housing. That will fit, and should give me a nice boost over what I have now.

The stage V turbine wheel is supposed to be good for 600hp according to Turbonetics. I am stuck there as well. I don't want to go to some big turbo and have to try to re-plumb everything at this stage of the game yet. Maybe later. The little engined cars like the DSM's and SeR's running a stage V turbine are hitting max boost at about 5k. I figure if it takes until 5k in a 2.0 liter, a 2.8+ liter shouldn't have any trouble getting full boost by 3500 rpms or so. You also have to keep in mind that the stage V wheel is a newer more aerodynamic wheel with 10 blades. The P-trim is I am sure, a much more dated design. Condsidering they now have T25 turbine wheels that flow as good if not better than the T3 wheels of just a couple of years ago, I am sure that the Stage V wheel will work. There is a DSM on the other board I am on and he ran an 11.4 at 123 or so with his stage V and a 60-1 compressor. He felt like with a little shot of NOS to get it spooled up faster and it would have easily put his car in the 10's. He said it was to laggy for him. I know his speculation is bench racing, but still, an 11.4 is nothing to sneeze at.

I am the owner of a 12 second street ZX, and I have seen some fast imports here, mainly in the DSM crowd. We have a DSM board here in Bham that I am a member on (they let a Z guy on it) which is very exclusive and hard to get on. Anyway, they have members (lots) that run 11's. But you have to put it into perspective. That is on race gas and slicks. In fact I raced one of the 11 second cars at the drag strip at test and tune, and he had race gas (so did I) and slicks to my BFG drag TA's, and thru the 1/8th mile I beat him, it was only after he got up into third gear and could get the power to stick that he pulled away from me. He added 40 mph to his 1/8th mile speed, I could only add about 26. Where you can get into trouble with cars like this is in a kick from a highway speed on the interstate. The come on boost about 4k and most can pull it to 8k. I don't care what anyone says, a true 12 second street car is not going to lose much on the street.

Well if the limit is 450 hp at the flywheel, I have some room left to grow. I bought the bosch adjustable pressure regulator they have so I can raise the fuel pressure. I need a bigger turbo. I run a hybrid with an H3 compressor and a stage III turbine wheel. I was thinking about going to the stage V wheel and a 60-1 or 62-1 in a T04E housing. I don't want to wait until 5k for boost. What about using one of the bigger Mustang MAF's made by the aftermarket? Isn't there a 90 mm one? That would be 10mm larger than what we are running right? I guess he would have to "hack it" to make it work though. I would like to know what you get out of your dyno runs. Gives me an idea of what I can go to.