Lockjaw

Are you talking about the one with red piping or regular aluminized? I think the aluminized looks like 3 inch, but it may only be 2.5. It would sure be nice to get a look at the real car and see what the deal is. Maybe he will get the thing into turbo mag like he said. Did you see the extra injectors and the relay? He may have a larger than 60 mm tb considering how much he hogged out the intake ports and intake. I would think you would want a big one myself, since it appears it is not much of a street car.

You got took on that valve job. Did they port it or something too. I have never paid over 135 bucks for a 3 angle. As for cheap places to get parts, try here http://www.autopartsgiant.com/ and here http://www.partsamerica.com/default.asp The top one has rings cheaper than the second one, but the rod bearings are cheaper at the second one. I would use the Nissan head gasket and intake gasket though. Spend the money on those parts. Both of these places take about a week or so to get the parts out to you, but there are cheaper than buying them locally. I have been accumulating some parts to build a 280 engine and will have them all pretty soon. That is how I do some of this stuff, buy it as you go. Plus rarely do you need a complete gasket set. Make sure you replace the valve stem seals though. I got some Beck Arnley one's this time, and they were shorter than the felpro's. Good luck, and let us know if we can help.

Is there a post from DAW on here about the maxima head? If so, you could go that route and get the compression without having to mess with the valve train geometry. I think it has smaller intake valves, so you would have to have that issue taken care of, but I doubt having 6 larger valve seats put in would be to bad. You should get a 3 angle valve job done anyway. The maxima head has the P series combustion chamber, which is the benefit of going that route. Since you have a turbo engine, why not go that route instead? You would be faster.

You can swap the head out to the P90, add the turbo injectors, the exhaust manifold, and then run the turbo electronics. The biggest problem I see is that the pistons are not turbo pistons, so you would have to be more careful about boost levels that you would be with a turbo piston. Boost levels depend on what kind of turbo, injector, intercooled vs non intercooled etc. I like to run alot of boost because it is fun when it hits.

Scottie, if you will notice to in one of the pics, there is a relay mounted on the intake, and there appear to be additional injectors mounted in the intake too. I don't know if one of the two cars is the claimed car or not. I thought it looked like one of them had 3 inch intercooler plumbing, which I would think would be adequate for 9's. I tell what else, if it run's 150 in the quarter, he has to have done something to make it stop. Stock brakes would not deal well with that I would think. What if this guys comes back and says he is running a junkyard motor with stock cam and fuel injection, save for the additional injectors? Now that would be a story.

You need to get some camshaft lube for the cam too. Crower recommends their lube plus some GM lubricant that costs about 12 bucks, and idle over 2000 rpms for 20 minutes. Straight 30 wt oil too. Liberally coat the lobes of the cam and the pads on the rocker arms. Then dump the GM stuff over the top of it all. You should also replace the rocker arms. Crower says the first 20 minutes of operation on a new camshaft determine whether or not you wear out a lobe, and if you do it wrong, you cannot fix it. If your crane cam has less than .460 lift, you can use your stock springs, but the stock retainers will will only hold up to a .160 lash pad. Stock is .120. So depending on what you need lash pad wise, you may not have to change anything but the lash pads themselves. The cheapest place I have found lash pads is here http://nismoparts.safeshopper.com/35/cat35.htm?482 They also have retainers, but you can get springs and retainers together from MSA cheaper.

OK here is the free tip on building an engine.Since you admit to being "challenged|" in this area, here's the plan. You need an area where you can put stuff. Then you should take stuff off the engine and put it in this area in order. Be sure to label the bolts and such. That way when you go to assemble it, you just reverse the order, and everything is a lot simplier. Use little boxes, ziploc bags, solo cups, whatever. Cleanliness is a major virtue with engine building, but you have to keep track of a few things. First of all, the main caps and rod caps cannot be mixed up, so you have to keep them in order. Same with the cam towers, rocker arms and lash pads, which you are going to have to remove from the head since you need to have the head checked and perhaps have a valve job. One tip, there is sometimes paint in the inside of the oil pan from the factory, and I take that off all my engines I build ever since I had some peel off and clog my pick up tube for the oil pump. Best engine I ever built too. Sucked. We can coach you, and I know it sounds intimidating to you right now, but as Scottie says, once you do it, it is old hat. I also think once you get in there, it makes a lot more sense. As for carbs, I don't like messing with them either. If you look around on the internet, you can find stuff alot cheaper such as rings, bearings and gaskets. Spend your money where it counts and make sure you get good machine work. If the guys have never done a Datsun engine, go somewhere else. be especially careful with head work. All the valve stem heights must be kept consistent if there is a valve job done, or you will have a royal valve adjustment pain in the neck on your hands. Get new valve stem seals. Good luck. I am going to be going thru a shortblock here really soon. Want to send yours down?

I'm thinking maybe so, but without being rude, it is hard to tell sometimes since people don't write very well in their posts. Of course I am making fun when I am using a computer that drops letters all the time.

Actually we have a guy in the 11's with an L6. There are lots of problems with the 9 second claim as far as I am concerned. I don't like the missing front radiator support just from a structural standpoint. I also have problems with the stock FI system due to the low rev limiter setting, although it is possible they hacked that somehow. The MPH means he is running means he is in 5th gear. What about the differential. I mean an R200 is strong, but that is a lot of power. I also don't like the big hogged out holes in the head, and would like to see the valve side of the head too. I also wonder what they have done to the engine, are they using a different camshaft etc.

I think he is talking about the valve itself rusting. I am kind of curious what you are doing that you have water in the intake tract myself. There shouldn't be any in there since we all know water does not compress, which means if you have it in the intake tract and get enough of it into a cylinder, you are going to bend/break all sorts of stuff.

It looks like from your diagram that you could flip the bar around and it may give you the clearance you need. Just a thought. Maybe you should look for another bar or see if you can borrow one and scope out the difference between it and yours.

You can get ARP rod bolts from Summit Racing, and if you call them, I am sure they have the head studs too. I am not sure you need them if you use the turbo head bolts. I forgot where you are. Send them an email. I think they can handle that. Also, check with TopEnd, they likely have a line on the studs as well. Make sure the block and head surface are straight. You may want to have a machine shop make a pass on them to make them flat. The HKS gasket can handle plenty of boost. The Nissan Safe shopper also has stouter main cap bolts if you decide you want them too.

I would like a picture, you can send it to me a cpeterson@msdudley.com I want to know what kind of car you have the engine in and what kind of t3 it is. Your time is very fast for just having a t3 and some nos.

What exactly did not impress you about the turbo? 550's are probably not big enough for JeffP to hit his goal either, he was looking into 720's. What are the details on the test motor you ran the turbo on?

Don't tell me Norm runs 2 head gaskets. I have got to say, I think that is really a bad idea. Does he advocate doing that? Buy the headgasket from HKS or NISMO and be done with it. It comes in less than 1mm thickness, 1mm and 2 mm thickness. If you blow out two head gaskets, by the time you replace the head gasket(s) and put it all back together, you will be way ahead with the Nismo or HKS gasket. I think they are reusable too. I need to scope out this Maxima head deal, although since I have gone thru the trouble to mill and set-up my p79, I am going to run it just the same. Sounds like setting up the Maxima head would be alot simplier, and I could just have the valves replaced with the one's in my P79 and go to town. Might need seats though.

I picked up a Felpro head gasket today for a 260z, and it says it fits anything from 2.4 to 2.8 on the label. I wasn't sure when you guys were talking about bore differences if there was a difference in the "fire ring" part of the gasket. Evidently there is not, at least on Felpro head gaskets. I have however encounted a head gasket that did not fit my ZX block correctly, and promptly puked coolant out between the head and block of my original turbo engine. That was a sweet one, let me tell you. I don't know who made the gasket, it was one my friend had laying around his shop. I guess the real moral is to look at the gasket and make sure it works. I have done probably 20 swaps, and only had one issue, so now I check.

If you are running lean, you need to address that problem before doing anything else. Lean = Blown up motor if you don't fix it. I would start with the basics, and one is a fuel pressure guage to measure your pressure. I would replace the fuel filters, and since I an not sure what the 300 uses (in tank or out) I can't say if it has a filter in the inlet of the pump like a 280ZX does. I would also run a bottle of fuel injector cleaner (stp black bottle) thru it, but remember that any fuel treatment generally decreases octane. So be careful. If your temp gauge is reading right, you also have an issue there that needs to be corrected. You are asking for a blown headgasket or warped head if you continue to drive it with coolant temps that high. Perhaps a radiator flush would help. Also, boosting on a cold engine is a , so you need to wait until it is fully warmed up before putting the hammer down. Hammer down on any cold engine is not a good thing. You could also clean all the connections on the ecu and maf and see if that helps. Good luck.

www.mjmturbos.com

DAW's and Tony's advice is very sound. Get the engine in and running and get the bugs worked out before messing with what trans or diff to use. The stock nissan trans is a much better shifting trans than the BW anyway, and it strong enough for what you are doing now.

Well I fall into the slightly older and hopefully wiser category like Mike, and I tend to agree with what he says. I know I have not had any accidents (that were my fault) in an awful long time. What hurts the younger age groups is the reckless I am to young to die mentality that most younger people have. There is a fearlessness about them, and I know, I had it when I was young. My last ticket was for 82 in a 55 or some higher 80+ speed, when I was setting the fuel pressure on my ZX and making sure it held. I tried to show the cop what I was doing, but he wouldn't budge on the ticket, so I paid it and went on my way. It was about 3 years ago, and cost me 100 bucks. Considering what people have to go thru to get licensed to practice law, accounting, fly a plane, be a doctor, etc, driving is nothing. We now have to have a boating license in AL to drive a boat or Seadoo, and it is no different than the driving test. Every time I get out on the water, it amazes me there are not more accidents because people drive like idiots. I am not trying to down younger drivers, or anything like that. I see people do stupid stuff every day that are all ages, and I probably do my own stupid stuff every now and then too. I think the bigger issue is people just don't give a f&*# about other people, and they think they can do what they want when they want. There are just to many people driving these days to have that sort of attitude, and I know people have it. What kills me more than anything is the person who puts on their blinker and expects you to stop to let them over, or the person who pulls out right in front of you when there is wide open road behind you. Anyway, enough lecturing. I support profiling, heck I would support racial profiling on the road, in the airport, etc. To me it makes no sense to ignore potential criminals due to thier ethnic back ground and fear of lawsuits and the wrath of activists. If it walks like a duck and quacks like a duck, chances are its a duck.

Use the f54 block since it has the webbing and you are going to be boosting. Nissan makes good blocks, and I doubt you would have a problem with either one, and I would not be scared to use either one, but, if I had an f54 block, that is the one I would use.

Unless you have someone make you a manifold with a t4 flange, you can't use a t4. The 300zx manifold uses a t3. Also, those have way to big an ar ratio on the turbine side for you to be running. You need a .58 or .69 max on a t4, if you go that route. I would recommend either a straight t3 or t3/t4 hybrid for you application, depending on what fits. Since you have a truck, if you planned on towing, I would say stay with the t3 since it would be in boost sooner.

Ok I am confused about that pressure tester deal. You attach it to the inlet on the turbo? IS that right? If so, that would mean your turbo would be spinning without oil. Although the speed may not be very high, I wouldn't do that to my turbo. Now capping the thing and putting it in the turbo compressor outlet line, I can handle. That is really a good idea, and I guess if you capped both ends, and did not put enough pressure in there to trigger the BOV, that would work. You should do your compression test with the throttle open according to most published sources, although I to have not noticed much difference. I think as long as you consistently do the same thing, that is what matters. After all, two different compression testers on different engines will give the same reading. For example, I did a compression test on one of my NA engines along time ago at my buddies shop and it told me something like 90 psi. So I used a different one, and it was up around 160 or so. Same engine same cylinder, different tester. You are mainly using the tester to check for variation between cylinders or dropping pressure as time passes. You are running some good times for a t3 turbo. Mid 12's is stroking. Wonder if anyone has run faster than mid 12's with a t3?

I think I got mine from the tire rack, and I got the 235/60r15's, and even with the turbo, I stepped up to a 3.90 gear in the back to overcome the taller tire. I would go with the 50 series. BFG's do not like water either. They hate rain, so you have to be careful when you are out and about with them on. On regular pavement I can stand on my turbo car in first with no wheel spin, try it with street tires and it is wheel spin thru first and second. The Nitto is supposedly a longer wearing tire that gets good traction in wet, at least according to some Mustang guys I talked with at the track. One other thing, if you let the pressure down in the BFG's to race, you have to inflate them back up to normal pressure to drive home. I usually take a portable airtank with me to the track, although the last couple of times I did not drop the pressure.

Actually, Mike you have that backwards. The 240 and 260 share the same bore, the 260 and 280 share the same stroke. I bet you will find that the P79 head will not give you much in the way of compression on the 260 engine. You would be better off in this case to run the N42 (yeah I know I am going to get some static for this advice). That said, if you milled the P79 and shimmed the cam towers to comprensate and adjusted the lash pad thinkness, the P79 would be a better choice, but for simplicity's sake, the N42 makes more sense for you. You are losing 3mm worth of bore diameter between the 260 and 280, and a P79 gave mid 8's to one compression on a flat top 280 engine which is why I think you should leave the P79 off. I am going to be putting a milled P79 with a large cam on a 260 bottom end this weekend, and can let you know what I end up with.