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winstonusmc

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Everything posted by winstonusmc

  1. winstonusmc
    He was the last motorcycle to go, fastest qualifying. He was moving when he went by us. The driver's had been complaining about the too being like a ribbon. I suspect it's from the heavy construction vehicles. They are rebuilding the visitor center at the top. I had a lot of fun but it was a long day. To get a good spectator spot, you have to show up on the mountain at 2:00am. We didn't get off the mountain till about 7:00pm. Anyways, here is some Z car content. Upgrade my tails to new JDM lights. They are new blem units. All bulbs function as intended minus the small center parking lights. I now have all LEDs in them.
  2. winstonusmc
    Thanks man! Pikes peak really isn't 23 minutes away. Takes me about 25 minutes to get to the toll booth and then 45 minutes to drive up. I have tickets to the Hill climb at the end if the month. Great driving roads around here though
  3. winstonusmc
    I did the hydraulic power steering for three different reasons. I already had the power steering pump for the RB, rebuild support is better for the Subaru rack, and the under dash area is neater. My rack was getting sloppy and was needing rebuilt or replaced anyway. For downhill, my brakes are overbuilt anyway with vented in the front and back.
  4. winstonusmc
    Another thing I haven't shown is I replaced all the carpet and rear panels.
  5. winstonusmc
    Yes, it's Colorado Springs. I don't have a house yet, so my car lives in an enclosed car trailer in storage. Good thing I can unload it whenever I want. Next, now that I have the Haltech, is electronic throttle. This allows for cruise control and rev matching. This is the photo if my trailer which doubles as my garage. My driveshaft was out because the shop that made it absolutely could not balance it. A shop out here in Colorado Springs successfully balanced it for me. I also need to get it on a Dyno to see how bad 83% atmosphere is for horsepower.
  6. winstonusmc
    So a long time since an update. Big life changes require big changes in modification. I recently moved to 6000ft of elevation after my retirement from the Marine Corps. So the dusty environment and elevation would do for the trusty ITB. So enter an RB25DET. Megasquirt is gone too, time for a real ECU, an Elite 2500. Currently the engine has a Chinese turbo, a Freddy intake, and bunch of fabrication and parts from my previous L28ET. Still sitting on my custom engine mounts. I rebuilt the transmission due to a bad bearing. I also half installed a T3 rear conversion with Z32 brakes and R200. I also mounted a narrowed WRX steering rack for power steering and installed a Vintage Air HVAC with the RB compressor
  7. winstonusmc
    Reflowing the solder on the MAF is a common thing on those. It happens from the MAF not being bolted and flopping around. It stresses the connector and cracks the solder joints.
  8. winstonusmc
    The hazard switch on the LHD 240z is to the right of the steering wheel, so I would assume it's to the left on the RHD. It is one of two holes, the other is the cig lighter. http://zhome.com/Classic/Restore/dash.htm
  9. winstonusmc
    the static timing value should match the indication on the pulley. If you set static at 20 degrees, the timing light should indicate at the 20 degree value on the pulley. Its the 5th mark according to the picture I have attached. My 0 degree is painted red and the rest are white.
  10. winstonusmc
    Yeah, that's my channel. That is Tuner Studio for Megasquirt. It's the registered version that has the custome dashboard layout.
  11. winstonusmc
    My buddy with the GTR was missing the bottom dowel as well. It cost about $15 from the dealership. In my opinion, that price is worth the headache it saves you of driveline damage in the future.
  12. winstonusmc
    Picture of those dowel pins.
  13. winstonusmc
    You have the mustache bar backwards. Check out this thread: https://www.zdriver.com/forums/240z-260z-280z-s30-forums-9/240-suspension-swap-40952/ You might have the R200 bar, the bolt spacing is a little wider then the R180. The R180 bar is also supposed to be in front of the vehicle suspension mounts. Also, do you have the alignment dowels from the engine to transmission? I cant remember if the L24 has them, but on the RB there are two dowels the align the trans to the engine. This also aligns the plate, which will allow the bolts and starter to align as well. There is a hollow dowel, similar to the head dowels, on the left bolt opposite of the starter and a solid dowel on the top of the engine in between the top bolts. If these are not there, the engine could be off enough to destroy a clutch like this: From a buddy's GTR with a missing dowel pin.
  14. winstonusmc
    I did this very thing. The deal to get the strut tube to clear the CV boot is to kick the bottom slightly to the rear. The strut isnt perpendicular to the ground anyway and leans slightly towards the front of the car at the top, so kicking it out at the bottom isnt a big deal. If you see in my picture, the strut is threaded way down. The way it is now, the car can be lowered way further than the stock BC setup. I might redo it in the future and slide the tube higher so I can weld it differently. You have to be careful not to put too much heat into the strut tube as to not warp the threads. Mine are still pretty tight due to the warping. I am not a pro welder, so a pro welder might do a better job at minimizing the warping. I dont have any clearance problems, but that may be due to making my own tabs to place the strut in a better position. I oversized the upper holes to give me some camber adjustment and the camber plates are now at center at ride height with 0 camber. On another note, I think if I used a TIG welder, the results would be better.
  15. winstonusmc
    Yes. The timing light should always match the output of the ECU. Locking the timing allows it to be at a value that doesn't change and is what you can see on the pulley. Lock it at 20 and ensure the light from spark plug #1 is on 20. Just dont forget to unlock it when you are finished. I have driven my car for a few days on 15 degrees static. Could be dangerous, mostly just lacks power.
  16. winstonusmc
    When you lock the timing, choose a value that will let the engine idle smoothly and has a mark on the pulley. The RB has marks every 5 degrees. My RB26 liked 20 degrees to make a smooth idle. Sometimes you have to turn the idle up to get it smooth. While the timing is locked, just line up the mark on the pulley that corresponds with the value you selected, not 0. The whole idea is making the timing light correspond to the ecu timing value.
  17. winstonusmc
    I need to do my door cards as well. I was thinking of doing the same thing as you did, but haven't done it yet. I love the color as well.
  18. winstonusmc
    Nice to see it together. Never dyno'd my ITB setup, but I am sure it was similar in hp.
  19. winstonusmc
    There are a couple other places to measure the angle as well. The front of the timing cover and if you have a stock set of mounts. I mounted my engine to the stand and leveled the mounts upside down. That's where my 10 degree measurement came from.
  20. winstonusmc
    Yes. 10 degree lean toward the driver side (left) and 2.5 degree down to the rear. Do measure your pinion angle and match it.
  21. winstonusmc
    The side angle should be about 10 degrees toward the exhaust side. I lined up the L28 and the RB side by side they have about the same lean angle, just opposite directions. I would assume it's to give more room for the intake as the exhaust doesn't need as much room. My engine is about 2.5 degrees down. I found that there wasn't enough room in the tunnel to get it level, not without lowering the engine way down in the bay. The rear diff has an upward angle to match that, dont know the exact angle as mine isn't the factory diff, it's a short nose R200.
  22. winstonusmc
    My trans is from an R33 RB25DE (FS5W71C). I know what it came out of because I pulled it from that car myself. It has a "71c" and a Kangaroo cast into the bellhousing. It is a similar trans to the 240sx but it's about an inch shorter. It's the smaller trans, not the big version that's in the RB25DET (FS5R30A). I can't tell from your pic if the shifter is towards the firewall or not.
  23. winstonusmc
    I am running the 71C transmission and my shifter is in the middle of the hole. With the R32 mounts, the shifter was in the front of the hole, which is really why I wanted to move the engine back. That and I wanted power steering, the electric fans were too close to the pullies.
  24. winstonusmc
    My engine mounts are also custom fabricated to sit the engine about as far back as McKinney mounts. I have compared them side by side. My drivers side mount is a modified R32 mount to clear the head drain. The passenger side mount is fabricated though, it's centered above the mount on the crossmember.
  25. winstonusmc
    I decided to make all of mine from scratch. Be careful if the pinion angle. Mine was way off using the factory rear mount with R32 mounts. I found the stock 240z has a weird high pinion angle, or at least mine did, something like 3 degrees up. So I had to make my trans mount lower.
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