winstonusmc

Megasquirt version 2 and 3.

Does this work over CAN? Would it interfere with my other 11-bit CAN devices?

That's not right. It shouldn't come out like that.

I might look into this. I read your other thread and am not squeamish on this type of work. I currently have BC coilovers and a power steering conversion up front, so the tie rods and lower coilover tube will have to be figured out. I do like the idea of cheap front brake upgrade to go with my Z32 setup in the rear. This will be on the back burner right now, have to finish the rear and the unexpected engine swap soon.

so, the willwood kit centers on the back of the hub? Any hubs do hub centric on the wheels?

I am about to install the T3 rear end conversion, which will give me hub centric on the rear. I have been fighting a vibration problem in the front with the disc spacers for my Toyota calipers. Is there a hub option that allows a modern hub centric style hub to be used that centers the rotor and wheel hub?

I am just ordering the T3 axles and building them myself. It saves me shipping one way and about $30 on the price.

I have an MS3, it has idle VE. I wasnt sure what MS2 didnt have compared to MS3. I am not too familiar with the batch firing. I know it can get kinda funny at lower RPMs with batch fire. I skipped these problems and went straight to sequential on an MS3. I also ran a MAF on my L28ET, very easy to tune the fuel. I use VE on my RB25 though.

Do you have the ego correction enabled? Once you have the VE table spot on, you can adjust you desired AFR in your AFR table. The AFR table will be important using EGO correction and during VEAL. Also, so you have any type of idle VE enabled? That will also affect the AFR at idle.

Did you upgrade to relays on the headlights as Well? The switch really sucks for providing good strong power to the headlights. I have jeep headlights (free) and my fuse box has relays for the headlights. They are plenty bright. I didn't do both at the same time and the relays were a more significant change.

I am doing this ratio as well. You have to have a lot of spacing on the pinion to get it to work right. I bought arbor shims from Amazon at a diameter of 2.75 inches and added them to the original shim. I don't have it in front of me, but I am pretty sure I added about 3mm of shims before I got close enough.

I just put on the original return nipple on the tank with some creative reducers.

This shows where I put the FPR, directly above where I cut the vent line.

The vent line does go back behind the head and joins in with the rest of the fuel lines. I cut it off near where they all join up and connected it to a rubber hose. I installed the regulator directly above it in the firewall. Looked clean. The hard line joins in with a hose in the back that goes to the top of the vapor tank. If you don't rearrange it, it will still work. It will just sound like someone pissing in your gas tank. I put the return line in one of the vent lines in the top of the fuel tank right above the original lines. I then ran the line that came off that tank vent to the original return with some size reducing. Kinda switching the two hoses. Not really sure why your vacuum changes. Maybe when the fuel pressure equalizes, the engine runs the way it should, changing the idle load.

Check your return line. I am not sure on your car, but my 240z had a tiny return line. I used the vent line that usually runs down the driver's frame rail as many do on the 240z for fuel injection. I have never had any issue with the stock RB fuel pressure regulator on the walboro pump. This is my third car running that combo. Pull the rubber return hose off the hard line and put it into a gas can and see if the problem persists.

Stock RB25 maps do something called richen/retard at higher boost. This keeps people from just turning up the boost to get more power.

Looking for a R200 moustache bar for my 240z. Please reply here or PM me. Thank you.

I am about to start my rear drive train upgrade by installing a short nose R200 using the Techno Toy Tuning R200 swap. I want to retain my BC Coilovers, but I dont want to cut off the tubes from the rear suspension unless I have to. Does anyone know if BC will just sell the tubes? Or if there is anyone here that is about to do the swap that wants to trade the tubes for my already welded tubes plus the axle housings?

Yes, these are designed from the R32 mounts fit on a jig and shifted back 2 inches.

I have known people that run the spacer and they had to delete the VCT. Mine never had the VCT. I use the RB25DE block from the R32, it wasn't VCT. I did this because it didn't have the oil passage that runs the system and uses the same head gasket as the RB26. This allowed me to bolt the RB26 head and ITBs to it. So no solenoid for me, or spacer.

Steel. Online folks say the aluminum get brittle over time.

I use the vent line for the return with a walbro 255, the fuel pressure stays steady at idle. The only thing is it sometimes sounds like someone is peeing in the tank. The 5/16 line is good for more HP than the stock block RB25 can take. Unless you go E85, then 3/8 would be good

Especially if you go ITB. Any MAF computer will not know how to handle open air ITB. Unless you are planning to run the plenum, that would just be silly, JK. I though about running the plenum in the beginning when I had problems with the MS3 not revving, but those days are long gone. Haltech elite 750 is a good option, and isn't too expensive. I know a guy that can hook you up to wire that...

I am glad to see you finally put the check engine light to use. I like your location for the light, I might have to copy it. I am pretty sure I labeled the neutral safety switch on the harness, which might have something to do with it, or the clutch safety switch. Either way, you could just check codes periodically.

That's what the write up is for, to show how much work is involved. I only ended up cutting about 18mm from the rod.