winstonusmc

Decided to move the engine back 2 inches to make more room in the front for accessory belts. I also am tired of the shifter hitting the center console and not being centered in the hole. First step was to build a jig with the old R32 mounts. The jig was designed to allow the bottom to be shifted 2 or 2.5 inches. Then mock them up in CAD (cardboard aided design) Left Mount: Right Mount: Then Transfer to metal, 3/16 plate steel: A comparison in between the 240z mount and the partially fabbed new mount. Note the drop is greater to correct the pinion angle. Done and painted Here is how everything sits now. The head is about 2 1/4 inches from the firewall.

It's a bimetal strip. There isn't any type of regulator inside. If your battery voltage isn't consistent, it would do this. Those gauges don't have much in them, just a wire wrapped bimetal strip that heats up and bends when current is passed through it. If the source voltage changes, then the current will change. Check your voltages with a multimeter.

I own an RB25DE with ITBs. It has more power than a stock L28, but its not turbo power. The sound and the cool factor is really what I went for. I started with a NA short block, which is a way cheaper option than gutting an RB26 block. I am using an RB26 head and ITBs, but I lived in Japan when I built this motor and I had access to much more parts than here in the US. If you want open air ITBs, like with trumpets or velocity stacks, then aftermarket ECUs are a must. The factory RB25DE has 200hp in the R34 NEO motor, the RB25DET has 250/280hp in the R33/34. Unless you want to keep the factory turbo setup, the RB26 isnt worth it for a swap.

I used the CHTS the whole time I ran my L28ET. I used that signal to control the fans as well without any overheating issues. Sometime the head gets hotter than the coolant though, so don't get alarmed at the Temps. I think the best is to run both. Have the ECU use the coolant for warmup and fans and the head sensor to monitor and maybe for anow alarm.

I want to get a dual pass later but my crossover pipe seems to work fine. I just sourced a pipe from O'reilly's the worked when I cut it and put a plastic coupler in it. I also don't want to get rid of my MSA fan setup just yet. I have seen some setups on the RB that they used the factory RB upper hose, we're you able to try it?

I am ready to start installing A/C in my Z but I dont have an A/C compressor for the motor. I am looking for the newer R134 unit from a later R33 RB25 or R34 unit. Its the one with 4 bolts holding it to the bracket. I also need the bracket. I figure someone has one due to the number of swaps on this site.

Its not his car, but he does have a shop page. I will let him link it if he wants to.

That's awesome you got it shared away. That's car is very beautiful, would love to see a video of it out on the road. I would love to dive into Haltech, but I am spoiled with MS right now, well at least the price point.

Have you messed around too much with the elite systems? I wouldnt mind moving over to the elite as it can do electric throttle.

Been working on my interior for a couple weeks now. The 70s dark blue has to go. I have a sewn carpet kit and about half of the plastic rear paneling on order. The carpet is pretty ratty and very disco era. In some places its just glued on another layer of carpet. The headliner and a pillars will get re done in vinyl if I have the guts to do it. If not, I am going to have the upholstery shop do it. All in all, it will be black within the next couple months. The door panels will get the treatment later, and the seats will be last. On thing I could have ordered was the kick panels. They were $22 a piece raw. Then I would have to cover them or leave them painted black, which I think they were stock. I will cover these with better textured vinyl. I bought some hardboard from Lowes and cut out a new one to see how it fits. The fit seems to be what I want, way better than the originals. I also installed some Subi window motors and freshened up the window seals so they role up normal. The passenger door had a crack in the top rear causing the door panel to pinch the window and push it off track. Now it roles up straight. Needs a little more adjustment and it will be perfect.

Is there a way to just flip the disk over? That would re align it to the correct orientation.

how is the play in the shaft? Does the Haltec have an internal pullup? Maybe the play is too much causing errors. I have been following the build on Facebook for a while and admire this build.

Not like it may matter to you, but my MOOG ball joints rusted real bad when I moved to the east coast. I should've put a coat of paint on the unpainted base of them. Something you may need to do to keep them looking good.

Been squaring away a lot of tuning and putting some miles on it. So far its got about 600 miles on it and it is getting stronger. Its been rainy here so I havent driven it as much as I would like. I did add some code in the body control module (BCM) that will make life easier. The auto head light feature now functions as intended, although it comes on a shade darker than I would like. Just need to take the laptop out at dusk to see what light level I want the headlights to come on. I added a feature that automatically turns on the headlights when the wipers are on, since its the law. I also installed both remote power door locks and power windows using the Subaru window motors. Now I have finished the code that turns on the dome light and flashes the turn signals when unlocked and locked. The horn chirp is there too, but my horns are not hooked up yet to the IPDM, which is what chirps the horn in modern Nissans. A sharp eye in the video will spot the smooth transition of the dome lights, I wanted some modern flavor. I only installed LEDs on the one brake light so far, so the incandescent bulb below it makes it look funny, clear single element LEDs are on the way.

Are you going to upgrade that radiator? Eventually I am going with a dual pass that will put the inlet on the correct side to remove the crossover coolant line when using the L series radiator. Looking good!

Some people mistake it for a bias valve. On rear drum setups, a residual pressure valve is put in the system to leave a little pressure in the lines to keep the brake shoes loaded on the drum. This isn't needed on the disc setup. I just gutted it and put it back together. Just remove the bolt and take the spring and pintle valve out. https://goo.gl/images/7dMS3g

Did you gut the pressure valve by the "T" fitting in the back? Don't want the calipers dragging.

I run stock 240sx brake hoses so you can order or buy that one from any auto parts store. Also that opens you up on any number of braided options online.

Did yours have a gasket? I never used a gasket, just a thin layer of copper RTV, never leaked. I was told they didnt use a gasket from the factory.

I like them because they use the larger Z31 rotor. The piston size is the larger one, unlike the smaller 280zx or S13 calipers. I upgraded to the S12W caliper at the same time from the S12+8 vented. I havent tracked the car or locked them up yet, so I am not sure how balanced they are. I am glad I got the flat valve covers for my RB25, I like the look with the wrinkle black coat. Very retro! They only were R32 though, R33/34 had those humps for the air/oil separator.

What rear setup are you going with? I did the Datsun Parts brackets and 86 Maxima calipers. Your bay is really coming along.

When you leveled the car, how did you do it? I disconnected the front and rear sway bar and lifted the center of the front and rear and leveled the front and rear independent of each other. Then I set the ride height I wanted after that. My front right is torqued a bit from when the car was damaged from the joy rider. The front right coilover is about 10mm longer than the rest.

Pretty far, about 5 hours. I would rather drive to my home state of WV if I was going that far.

I have the same kit. Not too many twisty roads in my part of NC I am afraid. I like it though.

I know of a way to make ITB noise, it's a little more expensive than a pop charger though. Video?