winstonusmc

Did you make sure your spark was on the correct phase? Are your runners on the exhaust or turbo getting warm?

Been driving the car with the new setup for the past couple days. Runs pretty good, been squaring away the idle valve with startup and warmup. I think the RB26 IACV has seen better days because it only idles up the car to about 1400 at full duty and running temp. I want more because at startup and warmup, I want the engine to spring to life. My G35 revs up to about 1800 immediately after start, and tapers to whatever the idle is at that temp. I have a VAG idle valve, Volkswagen I think, that you could drive the car down the road with. I think it will idle a car at like 3000rpm at full duty. Its not as fast as the turbo, but boy does it sound cool. The cell phone camera doesnt do it justice.

Glad you got it sorted. I have definitely seen bad temp sensors on an RB.

As the arms get closer to parallel to the ground, it pushes the suspension out. That is why the camber plate is maxed out to the outside. When the control arms are shortened, the axles would go back to the length they were at stock ride height. I just wish there was a way to retain that stock control arm angle so they still camber out when the suspension compresses.

Decided to go a different route with the TPS sensor. I originally tried to run the Nissan sensor that I had but I wasn't able to line it up correctly. I found out that earlier GM sensors had a lever with a tab on it. This would allow me to weld a tab on the spring plate on the side of the throttle body. This way any misalignment wouldn't cause binding, the tabs would just slide over each other.

Cool. I am pretty good at wiring, just rewired my dash and front headlight harness for an engine bay fuse box if you need help with it. I am not in the area for a couple weeks due to an exercise. My car should be on the road by mid May and I am always down for a road trip. Know anything about tuning? The RB25 ITB motor is in need of a tune. I can do it, but two heads are better than one.

Looks good. Nice to see someone modifying a Z in the area. Interesting choice on the 1G motor, haven't seen one of those in a long time, last one was a JDM Supra in a junk yard.

Its feasible if you use something to translate the CANBus. For example, I have an Arduino translating the fan output signal from Megasquirt into a Nissan Intelligent Power Distribution Module (IPDM) that runs the fan from under the hood. It just receives the CAN word from the Megasquirt and re broadcasts it out on the correct word for the IPDM. The only thing is you will have to decode the CAN word the has the gauge cluster info for both the Miata and the ECU, which would need to be done in a running setup. I "Sniffed" my CAN in my G35 to find out what went where. Just Google "CAN Bus Sniffing".

That's still an option, money is money, especially when it just buys another motor. I really want to put some miles on it before I decide on if I want to sell it.

Yes, its in and sort of running. I am not home to tune it due to a military exercise, but I am excited to get it running. I have updated my car thread now that it's in the car. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/107777-72-240z-rb25de-itb/page-3?do=findComment&comment=1166593

Thats awesome. I am trying to sort my exhaust, its the MSA 2.5 inch with the Magnaflow "Turbo" muffler modified to be straight through. It is stupid loud right now with the N/A motor. I want to put a resonator on it to refine the tone. I havent driven it enough to really tell me what its going to sound like, no tune and no time to tune it right now. I love your editing and music on the video. The setup looks great. Are you still wanting a tubular header, or is the cast RB mani going to suit you. I thought about the cast manifold, but its not a bolt on in my setup, due to the RB26 head. Either way, fabrication was my option.

Mounted the radiator hoses today and heat cycled the engine. While it was idling, I worked on the idle air valve and made sure it was working properly. It was quite surprising that the idle valve can only raise the idle around 500rpm at 100% duty. This helps with cranking as well, now I don't need to add throttle to start it. Now the fan doesn't dip the idle. I also ran the booster hose. Not too much more I can do till I leave next week. Still need to work on the TPS, procrastination.....

Just for those pesky inspectors, (Japan Joke) Finished up mounting the flange on the header and the mid pipe. Not any quieter, sounds like a pissed off bumble bee.

Oops!

Use a muffler. This thing is going to be pretty loud anyway. The thing sounds kinda raspy right now, but should quiet down when I finish up the exhaust. I have a 2 bolt flange on order, the flanges are kinda clamped together temporarily with vice grips because I wanted to see it run tonight. It doesnt really like to rev right now due to the fact I havent hooked up the TPS. Still gotta work on the bracket. I want to heat cycle the motor this weekend before I pack it up while I am away in Arizona for an exercise, Marine Corps!

Look what happened tonight, 4 years later. That hissing noise is the idle valve. I might make the "hot" idle through the throttles themselves to quiet it down. Things yet to do: Sort the radiator hoses hook up brake booster line install the header gaskets, yeah its straight from head to header right now replace my fried wideband street tune (no more drift tuning) belts

Worked on the front half of the manifold today. I cut the secondary off of the front section and fitted it with the steering shaft installed. I cut the collector off and noticed that one of the primaries ran right through the shaft. I decided to cut the primaries off the flange and rearrange them. now I have about an inch of clearance on the shaft. I finished the welds and threw it on for a test fit. Next I have to fit the secondary pipe on the front section. With all this work, I could have just built a manifold. Test fitting with zip ties. Welding the primaries together before the collector gets welded. Test fitting

So after much waiting for funds to get this from my buddy while I was in Japan, I have married the header back to the motor. It will need a decent amount of fabbing to clear the steering shaft. I think I am going to reposition the front collector to go parallel to the rear section and squeeze under the strut rod bushings. The final collector does hit the floor, but if I rotate it towards the transmission, it will be fine. Now for the pics, it totally fits without the steering shaft installed.

No, that doesn't look correct. Looks to be more of the R33 style. The R33 has more of a flat cross member not a "v" style that's in the 240z and R32. Put the engine at a slight lean towards the exhaust side on that engine stand, should be 10 degrees. Your exhaust side mount is correct. The intake side should have that same angle.

The left one is correct but that passenger one is incorrect. My mount is about 90 degrees from the side of the block, yours seems to be about 45 degrees. It almost looks like when installed, your engine would almost sit straight. It should have a 10 degree lean to the LHD driver's side.

Worked on the vacuum collector bracket today. Trying to get everything buttoned up underneath the intake so I dont have to take the velocity stacks off anymore. I didnt want the vacuum block to flop around like I had it in the drift car. Also installed the coolant and fuel hoses underneath the intake as well. I also added a tab for the dipstick to bolt to.

Take a picture of your mounts

The S130 and S30 mounts are the same on the L-series engines, so the angles should be the same on the subframe mounts.

So its not a 280zx, its a 240z. Its also not an RB20, but it is a 2wd block. Those are R32 mounts. My transmission sits in the stock rear mount. If you have any cast aluminum mount? One mount from the R33/34 is cast.

Wiring was this weekend! I had a spare RB26 plastic loom from the harness I stripped that I wired the L28 with. When I wired the L28ET about 3 years ago, it was the mirror image of a RHD RB car. This means the wires were about the correct length as the L28 has the intake on the drivers and I put the computer on the passenger side. Now fast forward to the RB, the intake is now on the same side as the ECU. Someone who has done an SR swap in a LHD car knows how much extra wire there is. So this weekend was spent cutting the wires down to make it clean. I didnt cut that much due to the RB leaning the opposite way as the L28, so the wire route was actually only 4 inches closer. I really only cut out 2 inches because I wanted the harness to make an easy bend at the firewall. Not sure if I want to put the O2 wiring in the engine harness because I like that there is zero wires on the drivers side. I could just take the O2 wire down the side of the transmission on the passenger side to hit the back of the header to hide it. The wires loosely sitting in the RB26 loom With the top of the loom on. Still missing a couple plugs, like the 6 wire for the mid harness and the 4 wire for the CAS. I went ahead and put the pins there, just gotta slide them in the shell. And now for the money shot. I really like this angle. (yes, the foglights are crooked)