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Everything posted by junglist
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Its actually supposedly 7 inches shorter overall than the 350Z with shorter overhangs at the front & rear bumpers. 370Z wheelbase - 99 inches (approximate) 350Z wheelbase - 104.3 inches 300ZX wheelbase - 91.3 (Z31 coupe) 300ZX wheelbase - 96.5 (Z32 coupe) 280ZX wheelbase - 91.3 (coupe) 240Z wheelbase - 90.7 (same on all S30's except 2+2)
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http://jalopnik.com/5084319/2009-nissan-370z-design-dissected Pretty decent write-up with good pictures comparing the 370 to the 350 and also to the Z we all love, the S30.
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These were taken in germany or something...so I'm sure in the US we won't get the rear foglight.
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Changing Non-Brembo to Brembo Plz Help...
junglist replied to a topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
The brembo's help with brake fade....let me tell you that the non-brembo brakes on a 350Z at the track have some scary fade after about 5-10 minutes. -
Angle of the attack of a wing on a Z?
junglist replied to heavy85's topic in Windtunnel Test Results and Analysis
First thing that I thought when I opened the thread and saw that picture. $90 for that wing is a pretty good deal! APR makes very nice stuff, I have a set of their universal CF mirrors and love them. I wish I could afford one of the CF wings also, was it an ebay store that you got this wing from or did the seller just have one? -
Here are a few crappy camera phone pics of the RGM RB-R's that member RB240Z and I got:
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What are the grounding points on the car that the MSA and Courtesy grounding kits use?
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Easier said than done on the east coast, especially up north.
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We got ours yesterday and they are awesome.
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So here it is ladies and gentleman, the first official photos of the '09 370Z. I for one like it. I loved my 350Z and I'm sure I'll like this one more as far as performance goes. I'm not a fan of the "tooth" look in the front grill or the L shaped head/taillights yet...but the lights will probably grow on me. I love the profile view. Heres the 3 pictures and a link: http://jalopnik.com/5070304/2009-nissan-370z-breaks-cover
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They look sooo good. Damn it, I don't need another thing to add to the project list!
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Spark Plug Wire Routing Options on an L28
junglist replied to zclubhouse's topic in Ignition and Electrical
This looks so much better than having the wires go across the top of the motor, I guess I'm going to have to add these MSD wires to the list. -
This guy on ebay sells downpipe weld flanges specifically for the Nissan T3 turbos...he probably also has gaskets if you e-mail him. I bought a downpipe flange from him and it was good quality. mailto:mc_motorsports@hotmail.com Nissan 7-bolt T3 downpipe weld flange on Ebay
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Sharing my new front brake design
junglist replied to snarpee's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Would your custom brackets work on a stock 4-lug hub to mount the wilwood calipers on a bigger rotor? -
For paint I use any combination of: Klasse sealant glaze, Blitz One Grand caranuba wax, Menzerna Full Molecular Jacket, Blackfire polish, Blackfire Ivory caranuba wax, 3M perfect-it rubbing compound, 3M or Meguiar's swirl-mark remover, 3M Imperial Hand Glaze, 3M Perfect-it II foam polishing pad glaze, 3M Finesse-it or Meguairs Machine Polish. For the interior I use Meguiars professional heavy duty vinyl & rubber cleaner for dashes and any non-seat surfaces. I then use 303 Aerospace protectant to "treat" all of the plastic surfaces...I apply liberally over all surfaces and then wipe them down again afterwards with a dry towel and it provides a very nice OEM look to all surfaces without being greasy, shiny or attracting dust. I use Lexol on cleaner & conditioner on leather seats and Vinylex on vinyl seats. To spot clean headliners or carpets/floormats I use 303 Fabric cleaner. I use Meguair's quik detailer on all door jambs, all rain drainage areas under the truck/hood, on the rockers and the painted part of the inside of doors to clean them and provide some shine without spending too much time. Stoner Invisible Shine is the best glass cleaner. For wash I usually use Meguiar's Gold Class or Mother's California Gold as they are easy to get at any auto-store. For wheels/tires I usually use Eagle-One A2Z wheel & tire cleaner as lightly as possible as its easy to find and is acid-free, I usually just use an older wash-mitt and a toothbrush to detail wheels. To treat tires I use Meguiar's hot shine as it is cheap and doesn't seem to throw off bits of itself onto the paint if you let it dry for 15-20 minutes. You can get most of this stuff from http://www.properautocare.com I just kinda use whatever I feel will work best for the surfaces I'm working with...I need to get a new buffer as I just burnt-out the motor on my current one. I have like two shelves full of car cleaning products at home with a huge variety of stuff from cheap as hell to expensive stuff. Sometimes I use cheap stuff when it gets the job done and doesn't harm anything. I spend way too much time cleaning my cars, I used to do it as a side business but I haven't done that for about 2 years now as the time I put into it usually wasn't worth the money per car. This post was too long.
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I believe that Kameari still sells 2MM MLS headgaskets...although they are expensive as hell just like every other Kameari part: http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt43033/pd858312/KAMEARI_L6_METAL_HEAD_GASKETS_
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Looking on courtesyparts.com they have these prices: Front Brake Discs.....$1,123.33 (each) Front pads.............$530.68 (pair) Front calipers.........$1,667.76 (each) Transaxle Assy.......$13,690 Wheels.................$1,480 front ea., $1,575 rear ea. Tires....................not listed Remember, the GTR is marketed as a supercar...so lots of the parts are going to have supercar prices also. Then again, many parts like these from dealerships for any non-economy car are not too much less in cost. Aftermarket pieces for the GTR aren't crazily expensive in the grand scheme of things unless you are going for some dry carbon aero pieces: http://gt-rr.com/ I don't predict you will the see the GTR offered at "discounted" prices from owners that can't afford to maintain them for a very long time. That car is still pretty limited in #'s and there seems to be a large enough market and demand for them. The price you pay for the performance you get is damn near cheap.
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How is the Economy affecting your Hybrid Project?
junglist replied to JustinOlson's topic in Non Tech Board
I do commercial real estate appraisals. The credit crunch and economic slowdown and banks folding is really hurting my income. I get paid per job on a commission only basis. Wachovia was one of my biggest clients, I haven't seen much work from them this summer and now that they are bought by Citigroup I look to lose a lot of business as Citi hardly ever uses my appraisal firm. My project is plugging along, but the timetable of completion is sorta being extended out a few months as we still need to buy some of the necessary parts (clutch/driveshaft/cv adaptors/megasquirt/brakes/coilovers/passenger seat/gauges) to complete the car. -
I removed the bolt that holds the sandwich/filter adapter plate onto the block and mine wouldnt budge either. I sprayed around the plate with some PB blast and let it soak for a few minutes and then slightly hit it with a rubber mallet until it started to move and then removed it the rest of the way by hand.
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Do you know what size 45 SAE adaptors we would need to run -10AN lines from the stock Nissan oil cooler?
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1 Tuff Z...it looks like you used the molded black box instead of the steel one? If so, how did you attach it to your tank? I'm very glad I found this thread and I'm thinking of using one of their ST520 or ST528 surge tanks.
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I know that the 280ZX turbo fuel pump shares the same part # as some of the late 80's/early 90's subaru GL's, Brats, RX, Loyale and XT. It may also share the same part # as the mid 80's Isuzu Impulse. So you could try to check around for one of those in the junkyards for one of those cars. Bring some alligator clips and a 12V battery and you can check to see if the fuel pumps are still pumping while you are there in the junkyard.
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rebuild veterans: rod bolt removal question
junglist replied to super74's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
I used a thick piece of wood and put the wood on the end of the rod bolt and then hit the wood with a handheld sledge. It loosened them right up without damaging or mushrooming the bolt head. I had the machine shop check the rods when I had the new pistons pressed on and everything was all good. I used new ARP rod-bolts when I took them to the machine shop and they pressed those in for me. -
I have similar ones, I bought the APR carbon fiber universal formula mirrors. http://www.aprperformance.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=91&Itemid=51 Pegasus racing sells some SPA mirrors that are similar: http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=MIRRORSPAGT
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Truly a work of art.