AkRev

Have not posted in this thread for a wile. Been working on some side projects and having fun with other toys. I even took some time to help my brother in law with his 620. We swapped in a KA24 and got the chance to drive it for the first time. (it is a ton of fun) Video of it linked below if you want to see it) My 280 has been running great. Going to start cleaning up the interior now and fixing it up. I am working on mounting a tablet into the dash right now. It is going into the spot where the center vents normally are. One odd thing that has started up lately, the reverse lock-out has stopped working. So if I am sloppy when I pull it out of 5th, I will hear it grind against reverse gear. Anyone else run into this before? If there is an easy fix, I would love to know, otherwise I will get to rebuilding the transmission next year (3rd gear syncro is not happy and needs to be replaced anyway)

I have been slowly chipping away at the car, I have been mostly doing short videos on the ECU and tuning out things to make it run and drive like a modern car. BUT, this past week, I took the turbo that has been sitting on my shelf for 5+ years and installed it. I have put about 200 miles on it over this past week and loving every moment of it. It is amazing how much the turbo changes the Z. I have started out with 6 PSI and tuned it with a very reserved spark table. I have since bumped up to 8 PSI and done the same. Next step is knock sensor. Got to get that worked out. Speaking of that, most knock sensor systems state to mount the sensor near the intake. Anyone done testing to see where the best place to mount is on the L28?I have been slowly chipping away at the car, I have been mostly doing short videos on the ECU and tuning out things to make it run and drive like a modern car. BUT, this past week, I took the turbo that has been sitting on my shelf for 5+ years and installed it. I have put about 200 miles on it over this past week and loving every moment of it. It is amazing how much the turbo changes the Z. I have started out with 6 PSI and tuned it with a very reserved spark table. I have since bumped up to 8 PSI and done the same. Next step is knock sensor. Got to get that worked out. Speaking of that, most knock sensor systems state to mount the sensor near the intake. Anyone have suggestions on a great place to mount a Knock Sensor on the L28?

Than you, Gollum! As for MS, yes, it has been hard watching the change. Losing the proto area and not able to solder your own board. Then the prices seem to just be so steep (Still a great deal when you compare to more established companies) but to the point it is hard to justify when other mods could provide more gain for the buck. My car was a very early adopter of the 3.0 board. It was also an early test case of MSnS (before it it was coined Extra) As I went through and got the car cleaned up and running again two years ago, I ran into limits. I wanted LS coils, to use a 3 wire idle valve (that I had already), I liked my hall sensor (and did not like the opto circuit on the 3.0 board or playing with the pots or the odd jumper), to be able to use a dash mounted screen (future project), and I didnt really care about sequential. When I ran through it all, the direction of Speeduino really appealed to me. There was a guy on the Speeduino forum that was the American dealer for the boards and kits. He hooked up my brother in law and I for under $100 each. That got me to start doing piggy back testing with the MS and enjoying the way the works. I have put about 7k miles with the Speeduino so far. It gets better gas millage than my MS1 (keep in mind that was single coil, I went to LS coils before my first full tank) There are some things that are not as polished, but somethings are more user friendly. It is a trade off. I am still a huge fan of MS, I still have other projects with them. This just allowed me to spend some money on some other areas of the car. Thanks!

Dang, It has been over two years since I have made an update. Not a ton has changed, but I am back at working on it again. (Took time to enjoy the car as I worked on other cars, ended up putting on about 15k miles) The one big thing that I got knocked out on the car, I used it as a guinea-pig to run Speeduino, and I am loving it. My brother in law convinced me to to start recording a little bit of the stuff I do. So if you are bored, feel free to watch from time to time. Right now, I took the time to start a love it or hate it project, a gated shifter. I am not a fan of the metal look in the Z, so I have been working on sewing together a cover for it. I should be jumping on more often as I am working on the interior of the Z.

Looks like a great start! Excited to see you get this knocked out.

Jumping into this really late. Thank you for posting your datalog. Your data log shows no Duty cycle/PW during cranking at 180 rpm (excluding what looks like a priming pulse) and your TPS is jumping all over the place. Are you pressing and releasing the throttle like crazy when you are cranking? Something seems off here, the TPS is going nuts and it seems that it never gets to flood clear, but your PW is acting like it is.

So, I have been a long time Megasquirt guy. I have been in the Megasquirt community since 2003. I am not leaving the Megasquirt community at all, but I am looking at a new brand of do it yourself type ecu. I was introduced to Speeduino about a month ago. I have picked up a 0.3 board component kit and the Ardunio board for about $150 (I already had the map sensor.) Bench tests look great. I am able to use Tunerstudio, and looks like autotune will work on this as well. Although the build is not on this thread, I will be testing this out on a turbo e34. I was looking to see if any other Hybridz members had tried this out, and if they had any pointers. Site for reference http://speeduino.com/wiki/index.php/Speeduino

Ok, I missed the issue from your first post. In rereading it, it still sounds a bit off. So lets clear things up. Do you see rpm in TS with the stim or just gauges? If no rpm, make sure you have the three jumpers for the opto circuit. If rpm can be seen, you will need to take a look at the outputs for the software. You can have the three leds represent different things. So post a screenscreenshot of your input outputs form basic settings in TS.

I am in PG. Right near the G on the mountain.

If you are getting it to work on the stim, my guess is that it most likely is your wiring of the hall sensor. A few followup questions, I always used MSextra over megamanual. So referencing megamanual does not mean much to those that are used to MSextra without the link. There are many ways to accomplish the same task with megasquirt, everyone has their own flair when it comes to wiring. How are you getting power to your hall sensor? Is it 5v or 12v? I have not used the 280z dizzy, but I have done this many times with KAs running the 24-2 cam wheels. I wired it as found here at msextra, but I did the 12v steps listed in the notes outside of MS for the 1k pull up (like DIY shows here - I used the 1k pull up in the wiring for pin 24 Connect S12 to TachSelect using a 1K resistor. (Or you can use a 1K pull up in the wiring, between pin 24 and a 12V source.) Just to be clear, you will have power to the hall sensor, Ground, and then the output to pin 24, you will also have a 12v pull up on a 1k resistor on the output line. That will give you a clean signal that you can use on the opto input. you can also use that on the vr, but will have to turn the pots a few turns. Hope that helps Edit: Are you using the DIY trigger wheel or the stock one?

It is coming along nice, one of these days I need to swing by and take a look.

Are you using a Hall or VR sensor? How is your hall or vr sensor wired up? Are you using 3.57 or 3.0 board? What input are you running on the ms board? (VR or Opto)

Looking at your post again, the bad idle is a likely cause. When you pulled the spark plugs, was any that had different color than the others?

Retarding the time lowers HC. What about the catalytic? Those numbers sound like a bad cat, or lack of one to me.

For your CLT, it sounds like you are describing how the P90 CHTS are. If I remember right it is a cavity that does not touch coolant. (I have only been around a MN47 once when it was stripped down) A few things, having the temp location will show hotter there at the back of the head vs the front of the block near the thermostat, so keep that in mind. I have mine hooked up in the thermostat housing, you can use the stock 280z housing if you have access to one, it has three sensors, and you can easily use the stock sensor and update the therm values or the GM one using a 3/8 pipe tap. Your IAT is fine, I personally like it right in-front of the throttle body. I have ran it in both places, no noticeable signs of heat soak to the point of hot starts behind though. It has been fun watching your progress.