josh817

That's too bad about what's going on. I bought some items from his widow as well. She was very nice and helpful, I guess that's her above! I believe I bought a fuel injection manifold, cam, coolant restrictor, and oil pressure valve from her and ironically at the time she was also selling a Camdoctor which I thought about buying but it would be a table top souvenir at best.

So I can't seem to get any traction from people on this and I'm really not interested in calling a plumber for $150/hr to do something that I can do. I need to replace this valve with a ball valve or some type of key valve like at the water meter. I'm getting mixed up as to how I remove this valve and what type of joints I should use for the next. I'd like to avoid soldering, preferably. Any help? Anything special to connect the PEX to one end? I don't want to tear it and not be ready to put the new one on, then have no water. Looks like they soldered a stub into the valve and then on one end has a fitting to screw into the PEX and the other solders right onto the copper.

I used a "Stage 3" in my car. Ran fine for the life me driving the car until I parked it.transmission is out but unfortunately I have no intentions on dismantling it further so I won't be able to get you a picture. The stage 3 thing didn't like slipping. It has been discussed before that these puck style clutches, unless their material is better, just require more pressure plate force to get the same friction as a full disk clutch. More force means more wear on your thrust surface of the bearing and crankshaft. Whether that is noticeable when you go to rebuild again, I don't know. I ran it on a Fidanza flywheel. This RB26 stuff intrigues me. Don't know if it's worth abandoning the Fidanza.

THe first start of my motor took a long time for the electric gauge to read. I hate the stock gauge, so sluggish... I wound up getting a hand pump and going in through the sending unit hole. It took quite a bit and whether it was going to the pump or flowing back into the pan I'm not sure but we started her up either way. Gave a few nail biting seconds and it read. Even on my L20B in the pickup, after sitting for 3 days and it being 17º out it took a few seconds to slurp it up. That's the lovely thing about accusumps but you should know that Gira (I presume Greg?). Though I must say I don't understand fully the drill technique. I get that it pumps oil throughout but when you drop the pump to put the real spindle back in aren't you just draining the system again? Does it ever really seal up around the pump when you do that or are you stuck with an oily dripping mess from that seal now?

Strange world Tony. I was looking for injector bungs to weld onto my airhorns, the type like Derek has with the screw down tops and no fuel rail. My hunt led me through some Z car forums where you were mentioning Jenvey equipment back in 2014. Here Jenvey is again and I'm seriously contemplating scrapping my manifold project along with my 40mm Webers to fund these and just be done with it already... If I can get a bigger injector and see what the 48mm pricing is like. Thanks for the share!

Asheville NC, I saw some nice homes on the internet there that I drooled over. I wanted to add that I just realized at the time of typing this thread I had paid $255 for liability on my 1971 Datsun 521 which mind you is rusty and far from perfect. It's overall value is probably less than $4k. I pay every 6 months so this month it was time to pay again and they raised both my mother and myself by $40-50. I am now paying $295/6mon for only liability. This is important because my rate went up this time, last March was the same amount that last September was. My birthday is in December and I turned 25 in 2015. I never saw a reduction that apparently is widely known for occurring when you turn 25. Rather my rates went up and neither of us have had accidents or made claims. This is Allstate by the way. My father is getting his home and car package through Travellers and I believe he pays less than $250/6mon for an '06 Honda Pilot FULL COVERAGE. Sounds like I'm leaving Allstate.

I am surprised, yet at the same time I am not, that they wouldn't include english instructions after spending over $1000 on a distributor. Have you tried speaking to RHDJapan folks or ZCCJDM? I want to say one of them had a rep here on this site many moons ago. I don't know if this type of setup would even have a mechanical advance on it. Perhaps you didn't install the dizzy/oil drive on the right tooth? With this being a programmed curve I'm not sure how it can be off other than the meshing of the gears at the crank. I myself had a problem with a standard distributor because unlike the 32/36 DGV Weber on the other car which has a vacuum port right at the throttle plate, the Weber DCOE's didn't. There was a vacuum port on the manifold which I suppose would work with a vacuum retard distributor since it always sees vacuum until you start opening up the throttle. What I wound up doing is plugging the manifold vacuum and running a higher than usual idle advance because the mechanical alone wasn't enough to get it from 10-12 to 36ish. Consequently the idle was always around 1200RPM even with the idle adjustment backed all the way out, just like NewZed described. http://www.rhdjapan.com/kameari-l-type-race-distributor-ignition-control-kit-with-spindle-gear.html http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt/pd858354/KAMEARI__LASER_RACE_DISTRIBUTOR__IGNITION_KIT_ http://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/306382-timing-3-1-kameari-ignition.html

I do suppose $600-$900 will get you a welded head, milled, seats machined. If it means being able to use standard flat tops.

If I may interject, and I haven't found the quenched head thread yet but I think we had one, I have always wondered why you can't have pistons made to fill in the recess...? If you're already going to get shaped pistons why not shape them to for the quench pad and squish area you want in accordance with an open head? I have a situation similar to OP's.

I don't even see the point.... No way would I pay $550 to them. I wonder what happens if you just cover yourself for the cost with the insured value.

Just renewed mine. I see they have a feature on their webpage that automatically increases the car's value. For $0 collision and other than collision deductible @ $11k value they wanted $156. With automatic increase value they would up that to $13k for $176, and then towing was $60. So I upped it to $13k and took the towing off since it sits in the garage. I think $13k should be fairly competitive with what I have, I know prices for our Z's have sky rocketed. I only have insurance because the car is registered as an Antique here in Texas (registration every 5 years) and the state requires you to have insurance for registration. I know I can tell them it's being restored and they won't penalize me for registration but I also heard horror stories about documents getting lost and all sorts of wacky stuff where you have to pay thousands to get your car re-registered. Also, I insure it because if the house burns down or a tree comes crashing down onto the garage I am hoping it gets covered. I don't know if they would say no go talk to your home insurance people. One thing I noticed is they have a standard and modified label. Does anyone have experience with the price gap for modified vs unmodified? I will switch to someone else once I get my own home and get out of my mothers hair. I'm afraid to see what type of stunt Hagerty will pull when I try to transfer title and insurance over to my name even though I'm 25.

My deal has been less than fun with them. My 240 was my first car and when I parked it is when I wanted to get Hagerty. The title was in my mothers name. They scrutinized us heavily and used all sorts of excuses to revoke us. First was "well you have a son on your regular insurance policy. We can't cover you because he may drive it."... despite the fact that there were 2 cars on our regular policy because we each had our own vehicles separate from the 240. Then after that squabble they came back saying the car doesn't look show quality. No where did I state it was a show car... So we finally got through. But, I too have heard the same stories of them doing sneaky things. I would've thought that I could use my business with All State to leverage things, since we have to use All State as a middle man with Hagerty, but I don't think Hagerty gives two damns about their business practices or losing people judging by reviews I read. How much is American Collectors?

Hi all, it's been a while! I was wondering who you use for your classic car insurer, the cost (per month/year?), and if you so desire, how much you insured for. I recently got my Hagerty renewal statement for May and my premium has gone from $200/year to $236/year and I believe if I remembered correctly I am insured for $11k. I know $36 is chump change but that's an 18% increase when I haven't made any claims. In fact the car has been in garage collecting dust ever since I got Hagerty. From what I read on Yelp, they aren't looking good. Who knows what changes they have made to the policy behind the scenes. Also, I was under the impression that Hagerty is a no questions asked payment of the agreed insured amount. Is this true? I'm guessing that's in the case of a Total but what about repairable damages? Thanks for the input.

What they offer is probably a 280zx alternator. The ZX should be a direct swap with 60amps internally regulated. You will have to jumper the external voltage reg. I don't know all the details. When I rewired I just left it out completely and run the charge wire from the alternator to the starter post, +12 Bat to the starter post, called it good. Oh and the lamp wire which the 240 won't have since it has an ammeter. I use a 280z voltmeter that has the charge light in it. The third wire is a constant or switched 12v to tickle the alternator. I have mine to a switched 12v so if something goes awry in there I don't start pumping 12v to ground while I'm away. Since he isn't doing it on a 240, confirm that his wires from the voltage reg match yours. There might be some differences. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html

I ran (and still have) an F54 block 3.1L from when I was 17 until I was 21 when I took the car apart. It ran fine. I doubt it's an issue unless you start revving high, making a lot of power, or just got a really bad block with thin walls. I didn't bother with sonic testing. I feel like this is a matter of what's best and what will work and you're at the point where you can spend extra time and cash to do whats best but really... really, what you have will probably do just fine for your intents and purposes. But that's just me.

It didn't immediately cross my mind to do 360º / 6 but yes... maybe 60º is enough to get it back in the slot. The adjustment may be limited but it'll be a quick fix.

You can just move all the spark plug wires over 1 prong on the dizzy cap and hopefully its just the right amount to get the hold down screw back into the slot. Move them all over 1 prong clockwise to advance, counter clockwise to retard. By doing so you are advancing/retarding A LOT, so if you do this you may find that you're on the other end of the extreme.

I don't know what type of go juice this one is on.

I get embarrassed every time this thread pops up. The main contribution is seeing all the internal pictures but that first page on exhaust stuff, when I look at it now, I laugh... For more reading on scavenging and intake runner lengths I would read my more educated thread where I utilized a shock tube lab at our university to relate to pipe pressure impulses: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/117954-a-better-explaination-to-exhaust-scavenging/ As a quick summary... Had a disk that ruptured at a certain pressure. The pressure traveled down a length of pipe that was open at the end. This was the pressure data from a sensor just after the disk. Imagine the rupturing disk as an exhaust valve opening. There is a region behind it where the pressure is lower than ambient. Time it correctly by varying your primary length and/or diameter. Also don't use tinypic to host images because I just saw one of my posts was some half nekkid cartoon chick that didn't seem to fit in anywhere in my discussion........... I'm still very confused. Another note, your 41mm diameter manifold gasket that fits your ports. I measured the ports on my mystery head at 39mm and I have another picture of someone porting a head with a guide valve labeled "40.5". When my father use to port heads he would use a set of guide valves like these. Valves cut to a certain size so you can ensure a relatively circular port as well as taper the port how you want to. Honestly don't know who the source is anymore. Here is another one of the green car. The sound is nice but honestly irrelevant...

Dad and I were at the swap meet and almost bought this thing however we had no idea what it was. Our local vintage group requires positive identification to run the car and there weren't any obvious numbers or plates on this. Ideas? Car has a sprocket on the back axle and a simple level shifter with two ports in the back for exhaust, so it most likely took a motorcycle engine. Owner claims 60's Formula 3 car.

Just be careful with the exhaust bung as far as blowing smoke is concerned. Depending on the corner worker or whatever it is in autocross, they may have a hissy fit for some light smoke or smell but I doubt it will be a problem. On my Datsun Pickup I have the valve cover to the air filter on the carb (you can use one of those little filters too), and the crank case to the manifold with a PCV valve between. Works just fine and everything is oil free! On the 240Z I had a little filter on the crank case and the valve cover and I had oily residue over everything after a few months of daily driving. The little filters were dripping with oil.

The speed of light comment was prodding the flames to get your panties in a wad. But, are you trying to say an electron, which has mass, has kinetic energy, and collides with other electrons does not exhibit frictional losses? Conservation of mass and momentum? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drift_velocity http://scienceline.ucsb.edu/getkey.php?key=2910

Are you suggesting this is a stupid question?

And therefore... it should be instantaneous (as fast/faster than speed of light?)....? I was waiting for you Tony.

While I sit on a corner at the track, waiting for cars to spin off and go flying, I become bothered by a question posed to me a few years ago. 1) Suppose you have two computers. One is a standard computer, the other is a computer which is operated hydraulically. All calculations are done via hydraulics. Neglecting actuator speeds, which is faster when running the same computations?