josh817

Hey guys so my dad and his buddy came over to the shop on Saturday and they came to the conclusion that the tranny and the engine were being bolted too close together... as in the back plate is too thin so the input shaft would push the crank forward and put it in a tight bind. This pisses me off extraordinarily bad because when we purchased a back plate we knew there was a thin and a thick one for the U20. I asked Dad "which one did we get" he says thick, confidently. Now he tells me this and its like uh... I just asked you that and you said it wasn't the problem. So I guess I should be happy that its solved. Dr. Dean, our parts guy said he didn't have anymore backplates and he redirected us to some other dude who sold us the one we have. I think it was the last one he had, so I'm not sure if we can get another. I'm tempted to send this backplate off to our machine shop and tell him to make one just like it but however thick (1/4" instead of two 1/8" plates) rather than doubling up 2 thin backplates (which was what the dude told us over the phone, if he didn't have a thick one to sell us). If we can't buy one, I'm sure we can have one laser cut for us by our dude. If not that, then the consideration of using washers to space it out the extra 1/8" or whatever, is in mind. Mongo, if you have a thick backplate for sale, give me a shout!

I wish I were as lucky as you. I had to fight for just my RPM signal and now I don't have a spark signal. Oh well, right?

That is correct, we couldn't engage the clutch. So, I pulled the starter completely, motor doesn't turn. I pulled all the bolts holding the tranny to the motor, still doesn't turn. Pulled the motor, motor turns outside of the car no problem. We can spin the input shaft with our hand when its out of gear, and when its in gear, we can push the car and the input shaft spins. I looked on the clutch and there are no scratches or anything... I don't understand. Dad is now determined to replace the tranny mount, and then replace the tach and its cable. So much for just "rebuilding the motor". Of course, the guy won't pay for it separately, its all part of our tight budget, meaning, he gets money for marking up parts, and I lose money. Nice. This will be the last job I do, as part of his shop. I'll use this money to buy my own metric stuff, and continue onto any other motors (doubtful) by myself.

Some good advice. You're filled with U20 knowledge! Would it still roll if it did that because the car can still free roll... just not in gear obviously. I don't think there is anything wrong with just the tranny... The car rolls, goes in every gear, etc. Its something to do with the motor or the two together. I highly doubt just the motor because when we built it, everything spun freely. Unless if it froze up somehow but I can't fathom that because I am notorious for using all the assembly lube and STP...

Alright well Dad jacked up the tranny at different points and still nothing. We will pull the motor tomorrow, make sure it spins freely, go from there I guess. He thinks that maybe one of use spun it the wrong way on accident at some point in time. Maybe like when we were under the car so our right is actually left, I don't know. He thinks maybe a timing chain is stuck. I said well if it spun backwards, and it got stuck when we tried to spin it forward, shouldn't it still spin backwards then...? And it doesn't spin either way. Clutch may be installed backwards, that's a good thought. There were no markings on the clutch, and the paper it came with showed a picture which resembled the same way most clutches face, so we did that. I would think however that the motor would still spin when its out of gear. Alignment dowels were there, all 3 I think it was. Proper clutch, correct size and correct input shaft spline count. We have no slave cylinder installed so the bolts can't protrude. I guess we will have to see. An incorrect clutch or locked up timing chain is easy to fix with the motor out. Dad is getting all pissed because he's getting into the "fast money", quick turn around, crap. Its really starting to piss me off the route he is going. If something is wrong with the car, he buys the part to fix it. We told the guy it will be this much to rebuild the motor and get it in the car running. The internal conflict is that because he told the customer a set price, that is our budget. Of course, Dad needs to make money off this just as much as I do, even though its my project, because the car is taking up a spot in the shop. This means he marks up the parts prices, and pulls that from our budget. Any money left over from the budget, is my profit. So the problem is, he is more than willing to go out and replace everything on the car to make it pristine, despite the fact that the task is to rebuild the motor and have him drive off with the car, because every part Dad buys, he makes money, yet I lose money. Point being, I don't think I'm even going to see $400 in my hand when everything is done here. If I don't get at least $400 for the work I did (complete rebuild, lighten, balance, and polish rods and pistons), I think I'm finding somewhere else to work. Sorry, just had to rant a little. This project is becoming overwhelming.

I hope the shaft isn't bent... We inharreted this project, with the motor out of the car, taken apart... I guess we'll find out...

Nothing is up with the flywheel that I know of. I installed the flywheel, turned the motor. Then put motor into car, turned it. Then when everything is hooked up, it won't turn. I suspect it has something to do with the jack that was propping up the tranny a little or something, because the motor did turn when it was in the car! Thats how we check if its engaged. Turn it out of gear, put it in gear, make sure it doesn't turn. I tried turning the motor over with nothing installed, just the blocked, mated with the tranny, and it won't budge. Tomorrow we will loosen the bolts joining the two together, and prop the tranny up a little, maybe it will turn.

So Dad and I built a U20 motor for a customer and we go to put it in the car. Now, we know it spins, because we spun it before we put it in. Every time we did something major like add pistons and rods, put head on, connect timing chains, install flywheel, we spun the motor to make sure we don't have any screw ups. Admittedly, it is a tight motor. The rear seals are particularly tight, even though we oiled them. That's ok though, the motor spins freely. So we stab it into the car, make sure it spins, it does. We proceed onto hooking everything up. We're at the point where we now need to get the points to the open position or something Dad said. I don't know how to work a points style dizzy but that's what he said. We want to use the points first to get the engine running and then we will install electronic ignition. So, we put a socket onto the crank, it won't turn. I go "oh that's because we have the spark plugs in", take them out, still nothing. Its out of gear mind you. So we decide ok well lets try rocking the car while its in gear to see if it moves at all. Still nothing. The wheels were sliding on the ground, that's how stuck it was. So here we are going what on earth is happening?! I think maybe its something that's connected to the crank in some way, so like the water pump, the alternator, the starter. I remove those, still nothing. I have now undone everything, ready to pull the motor back out. I then remembered, we spun the motor over, with the jack under the tranny. We had the motor in its mounts and bolted up but the jack was still under the tranny. I then remembered, Dad said "that tranny mount is probably toast" when he saw the engine moving around when we rocked the car, you know like it torques to one side. Has anyone ever heard of a tranny sagging, so maybe the input shaft is in a bind with the crank? I'm thinking maybe when we took the jack out, the tranny drooped a little from its dead mount. Doing this sort of thing: I was thinking no that can't happen because the bolts from the tranny to the block are tight, holding it together. I honest can't think of anything else guys... Everything is off the motor, no valves are colliding or anything. The only thing I can think of is that its in a bind somehow with the tranny or the motor somehow froze up like... over night..? We will trouble shoot further tomorrow. I'm clueless right now though.

Be careful with the typical T style engine stands, the ones where there are 3 wheels, one on each point of the T... They can topple over on you. Had it happen to my dad on one of his race motors, snapped some head studs in the block and bent the others. He rigged up the stand so it resembled an I instead of a T, which utilized 4 wheels and prevents it from toppling over to the side. Old head bolts will work on all the Datsun engines I think. I used them for my Z motor and for a Roadster U20 motor. Head bolts are a 10mm hex head, buy a good quality hex socket so when you torque the head down to the block it won't break. I had some off brand socket and it broke before I hit 60ftlbs. Another hint... Utilize a side mounting method. Mounting the motor like this is fine and dandy however it yields some problems... First, you can't bolt flywheel and pressure plate on while its on the stand, I like doing it while its on. Second, when you get the crank, rods, pistons, and head onto the block, it really starts drooping... I didn't bend any head bolts but it sure looked like it was. Third, good luck trying to turn the motor around to put the oil pan on and stuff. Once it tilts to the side, with the head bolted down, it will want to spin right around on you and then you won't be able to get it right side up again without busting your balls. Also note, the "I" type engine stand to keep it from falling over: A more desirable method is to make a plate with the drill pattern of the 4 threaded holes on the intake/exhaust side of the block. I think it was used for like an A/C or power steering pump. If you bolt into those and mount the engine on its side, all three effects I listed above are fixed. It also really helps if you buy an engine stand that has a crank drive to spin it around. This one also has the "I" setup, plus we added a spill pan on the bottom for engine tear downs when oil is all over the place so you don't do what I did in the first picture above: Hope that helps.

The roof has a curve to it. When he says its easier, I'm pretty sure he means you cut the roof out of a donor car. You could TRY to bang out your own sheet metal but since you aren't a body work man, you will probably be left with a sheet of metal with a bunch of divets in it that will need several layers of filler to even it out. You don't want an entire roof of filler... I'm not sure exactly how much of the roof you cut. I think the roof and the rear pillars meet up and were like lead filled in or something. When I sanded my Z down for painting I had a ton of bondo on one pillar because I think the rear quarter panel was hit at some point, and then replaced. There was an obvious huge gap between quarter panel and roof pillar. You can see where all the bondo was cracking: And then here it is after I got all the bondo out and sprayed sealer over the car: I'm no professional, and like I said, I don't know how far people go when they cut the roof out, but if it were me I would go conservative. Find a donor and cut out the portion that the sunroof is in, if it were on that car. So for instance, if your sunroof is perfectly centered, then cut out the exact spot on the donor car, this way the curve of the roof is matched since obviously it curves a little more as you get towards the hatch. Then, to give yourself some wiggle room, if the sun roof is lets just say a 24" x 36" rectangle, cut out 26" x 38" from the donor so you have an inch of extra metal on all 4 sides, allowing you to do a little bit of fitment. Be careful when you weld because its thin stuff, I bet you can easily blow holes through it. If your roof liner is out from inside the car, I'd even be tempted to weld on the inside and then grind flush, this way the roof liner will cover the welds. You can do a skim coat of some bondo around the edges on the outside of the car, where the donor metal meets roof surface. Do some searching, this has probably been covered before, with pictures which can really help you out.

Braap I love your daughter and I don't even know her. The picture of that house reminds me so much of this one train set that was in the same tent as my dads booth at the Texas State Fair. It was a Bavarian Gardens train set, but it was huge, like 27 feet tall. It rotated with the train going around and it was like a 360º Bavarian mountainous landscape with cottages. I had to help Dad with the booth which was essentially me just sitting there doing nothing. Accidentally wore long sleeves and this was in the middle of Texas summer so I was dying, however, I stared at that train set spinning around for like 2 hours straight and zoned off. It was so peaceful. My favorite part of the set was the big 2 story house that was built into the cliff side with big pine trees I guess they are, all around. Your picture looks almost like it, the major difference is that its not built into the cliff wall and it doesn't have that rustic look, only because the windows look newish and stuff. Its amazing! I'll try and find a picture of the train set. Ever since I saw it, I've always wanted a house like that.

6' 4" 220lbs Plenty of space, even with stock steering wheel. FYI Shorts are big, wheel isn't really hitting my leg.

I was going to say if you have an L6 and you're going to invest the money into a tranny, maybe looking at a Kameari close ratio gear set... I think they are tough enough to withstand the L6 drag launches. Since you're V8, nevermind.

Are you slamming gears? 2-3 is that long throw so your RPM's could drop really low if you are a slower shifter, so when you get into 3rd, it slams them the RPM's back up again. Or you shift real fast and the RPM's don't drop quick enough and it slams it down, especially since the gap between 2 and 3 on the T5 is substantial. I grind from 1-2 if I'm trying to do it quickly like on a track. Grinds in reverse too, if you don't go into 5th first, and then reverse. I'm curious too about what can be done.

N42 And some people do raise the ports. If you look at a lot of SCCA photos found in the Datsun books, some are raised all the up to the floor of the valve/camshaft/rocker area from what I remember.

I'm not sure who is scheduling. Mom literally called me up an hour ago saying he died. She says there's severe weather on Friday, his funeral will be over the weekend but because of weather on Friday, we'd probably have to leave tomorrow or Thursday. This is the first family death that's occurred for me so I don't know like... how long a funeral can wait before things get bad. Knowing my family, everyone already has their own spot in the cemetery so I guess the ceremony part is all that's left. Mom said she will call me with more information once she finds out. I know my professors will exempt me, except maybe for Architecture because he does a lot of pop quizzes but only counts about 3 of them into your grade. He will always say, if it caught you by surprise and you don't know anything, that's ok, just turn it in and hopefully it won't be one that's counted in the grade book. I could definitely see him saying that to me. Or another worst case scenario is like my Physics class last semester. I was in a car accident and missed a quiz in Physics. The professor exempt me, but he never wrote my name down or anything. Since this is college... you don't really get progress reports with all the grades you made in that class so I never knew if I made a 0 or if it just didn't count. The biggest thing I worry about is my mom. Since she lives at home by herself. No one to vent off to...

Now what do I do? He's up in Rhode Island, I'm here in Texas with school. I want to be at his funeral but missing class is risky. How does everyone else in school do this? It was sad to hear my momma cry. He had a stroke last September and since then the doctors think he's been having mini strokes. When I visited him in January he remembered me but kept saying he had to go to football practice and everything. He wasn't aware that he wasn't at home. Then just 2 days ago he got pneumonia and went back to the hospital. By this point my grandmother said he wasn't the same. You would walk in and he wouldn't even realize you were there. Ask him questions, and he wouldn't respond. I'm not really the crying type. Hard to get tears out. I hope my momma doesn't think I'm not sad about the situation because I'm not cry or showing a lot of emotion but she is.

I don't think hydraulics came with the mouse trap springs on them, however the rockers still had the groove for them to be used. Solid lifters should have in the order, the 6 sided hex to screw the lifter into the head, its a big 20mm or whatever, then a smaller 17-ish mm hex head for the lock nut, and then finally a 14mm hex head to adjust the height of the lifter. If you have hydraulic, you will only have the big 20mm that screws the lifter into the head. What you have is solid because there are three sections to fit a wrench onto. If its a P90A check for inserts. Just be prepared to let some head bolts loose one at a time because the lifters right next to the cam towers, you can get a socket over the hex head fully due to the washer under the head bolt. The hex head for to tighten the lifter down with is thin so you can't get a very good grip on it either way. Now give them too me! I need some.

Yes thats the red Z I posted the engine bay of on the first page.

The idea behind a pulse jet, for Daeron to see:

Google Japan opens the door, in regards to that, like I said I still only found 1 link to the Wako 75S camshaft utilizing Google Japan. That was the first step to all this searching. As far as I'm concerned right now though, I have the cam grind I want and the advertisement for the Wako 75S didn't look much different than the Kameari 77i. Like I said, the only difference I saw was .5º difference in center angle I believe it was. Lift was the same, duration is probably the same, etc. so I'm not worried. The race head is I believe runs on the same large ports. The head is what I guess you could call "loaded" meaning they took an N42, argon welded it, shaped the chamber, installed their special valve seats, big valves, guides, springs, cam, retainers, collets, etc. Of course that is if you're talking about the "SPL" or "special" head, should be priced around $5000 and I actually think that's a good price for all the head work and exotic valve train stuff you get. Piston size is all 89mm for a 3.1L. I think for the RPM's they are doing, going 90mm iffy to do block warping. Even in our domestic stroker write ups/how to's they mention 90mm cylinders may be risky. They will run forged pistons, and as you saw they are flat tops. Most use the titanium rings Kameari and other exclusive shops make. Cranks are typically the V07 cranks, however, there is an 85mm stroke crank that is produced which supposedly yields a lot of torque. Since these guys are making 400hp N/A ponies, the torque isn't like our turbocharged motors. The 400hp dyno I saw, only made like 270ftlb's of torque if I remember correctly. A boost in torque with the larger stroke would be welcomed, if they can spin it up as fast as they're use to. Kameari makes an 85mm crank, they also make prepped LD28 cranks, and then they also make their own LD28 crank which has its counterweights... "redone" I guess you could say for better harmonics. I can't say which LD28 these guys use. I was getting the impression that they were modifying their own cranks rather than buying one that is recounter weighted and stuff, only because they would mention that they had their cranks balanced, flywheel flange shaved, cross drilled, etc. What I'm curious about is the importance of welded and shaped chambers. Words like "squish" get tossed around and stuff. I'm not one for welding and reshaping so to make up for it I was like "just use raised pistons". Does that take care of the squish? If I were to take a head with all the works but no reshaped chamber and has raised pistons to maintain a 12:1 CR, and then compare it to a head with all the works and a reshaped chamber that has 12:1 CR also, what differences would I see? I read that the chamber shape helps with low and mid range power, but that's all. Is chamber shape very important as far as making power is concerned? Turbo guys won't use this setup exactly because remember as mentioned above, turbocharged setups don't depend on the biggest everything. I think they need a little more work to the exhaust side to compensate for the forced induction. Maybe they would run a 38mm exhaust valve and a 45mm intake, I'm unsure. Turbo setups probably push like 500-600HP (I'm just pulling that out of my butt honestly), but wouldn't be surprised: For Zr8ed, I totally agree with you. The only thing I think though is that all their testing and tuning, lets just say trying to find the perfect camshaft profile, is in their work. So yes, that's what I meant when I said the $1300 cam is so expensive because you're paying for their research. Their efforts are being translated into top of the line products to purchase. The goal here is to look at these products, and figure out whats going on. Maybe if someone were to read this and they had the will power, they would try to replicate. I don't think some of this stuff even has to be replicated on an L6. Things like the nozzle idea and the cookie cutters, can be put in any exhaust system and dyno tested on the same day at the same place so everything is equal. For Daeron. I'd like to note that a lot of the turbo drag motors, are also using a big can style muffler, but no cone. I can't tell anymore from home built and shop built, so I can't say whether the turbo guys throw a Kameari Super Drag muffler on the back... Either way, that muffler is prevalent in every setup. The cone design is being used on N/A motors. Se the link I posted above and then also these: I'd like to get back to discussing whats going on with the exhaust and having some questions answered, rather than talk about... other stuff. I hope to have a thread that puts everything I have found, together, as one source, so I don't have to keep a billion bookmarked websites like my mom. EDIT: Didn't bother to think that when it says "Duration IN/EX 77º" maybe it meant camshaft degrees and not crank shaft degrees like we're use to reading... I also have a feeling that I have annoyed the gods. People like Tony D, John, Paul, etc. haven't showed up. They're either really busy or I'm on a **** list.

well, I understand there is a difference from being spoon fed and wanting to know the characteristics of a camshaft. I know they won't just shoot out cam specs to me, however most specialty distributors will say "you need to do this first before you can run my cam". After all, when I ask what changes do I need to make to use your product, don't you think the person would be more than willing, so he can have maybe 10 sales of a $1300 cam, rather than only 9 sales in a year? Yah I would think so. I didn't go into emailing him, guns blazing, demanding secrets. I'm brighter than that. I went in as a customer who is blue printing his road racing motor and has heard of a camshaft but doesn't know if it has the characteristics I want. Simply saying "Sorry, it won't work for your application" (that was a quote) and nothing else, denotes something, don't you think. Rather than like saying "well that cam is a bit too much I think for you so what about trying this cam instead", TRYING to build a customer/distributor bond, showing that you actually have interest in this mans setup and his efforts to make a winning motor. That's my point. I'm sure it was just a bad experience. Dave Rebello is willing to sit there and tell you a few things before you start digging his brains for classified info. As for the difficulty of finding info, the language barrier definitely doesn't help however when it came to the Wako 75S cam, there was literally, one site Google had. All the other sites were something different. I'm going to assume the Wako 75S cam, is one of those catalog things and like I said before, the catalog or word by mouth in Japan, is your ticket into buying one.

Well... It appears the engineers and that "out of the box" thinking Tony D always mentioned joined forces and realized that as long as there is a little gap between valve seats, there is still more room to grow. 46/38, coming from even the P90 valves 44/36 is an increase by 1mm to each side of the valve, since you know... its a circle. Punching out the exhaust is needed to keep up with the intake, right? Datsun heads have a hard time flowing the exhaust out compared to the intake... It appears they decided to punch both intake and exhaust out as much as possible. N/A power, unlike a supercharger or turbo, I don't think requires special attention to the intake more so than the exhaust and vise versa. I don't think there is a taper to the port because first of all I did have a picture floating around where the dude used a valve to maintain the same diameter all the way down into the port. Secondly, I always thought that a taper was necessary to maintain low end velocity. Essentially this speeds up the air in the port, kind of like how a venturi speeds up air in a carb which forms a low pressure zone to draw fuel out. Well... if we look in the How To Modify Your Datsun OHC book, under carbs, it shows like GT2 specs and such in a little box. One of them mentioned like a 45mm carb, without venturi's if you didn't have sufficient funds for 50mm carbs or if there was a class restriction. Why would someone run carbs without those, don't they run like ****? Yes, at the low end, but a race car runs at higher RPM, velocities at the speed are sufficient enough to do the job. I've heard of the Helmholtz but I never thought about it really. It makes sense, but does it explain the nozzle shape? I think if it utilizes that effect, then maybe the nozzle was just a design thing, because we can all see the problem if you just welded a big washer to the your exhaust pipe. A cone shape would gently squeeze the gasses into the orifice rather than the gas slamming into a wall and trying to get through the hole in the center, presumably a washer... We also must remember the general rules of thumb for a De Laval nozzle: "A de Laval nozzle will only choke at the throat if the pressure and mass flow through the nozzle is sufficient to reach sonic speeds, otherwise no supersonic flow is achieved and it will act as a Venturi tube." Even a venturi would be a good thing except for the fact that you must choke the flow in order to form a venturi. Run a 40mm Weber with a 32mm venturi on one of this motors and I bet the upper end will suffer BIG TIME. Our problem is that we don't know the velocity of the exhaust! Most likely subsonic by the time it reaches the back I'm willing to bet. But then, the throat of the nozzle will choke it down, making it go sonic, maybe even supersonic. The one problem I have with this idea is that De Laval nozzle are written about, mostly with propulsion in mind. When a rocket motor is burning, it doesn't burn in pulses (that brings up an idea I just had!), it burns constantly. This constant burn means constant pressure before the nozzle. Exhaust is pulses, I think your Helmholts effect idea is better because of this. That is why I mentioned in the initial post that I was confused because if you need pressure for the nozzle to flow more, then how is it helping, because you will have a ton of back pressure in the system. My great epiphany if you would call it that is a little experiment I did about 2 or 3 years ago. If you guys have ever heard of a pulse jet, its what propelled that flying bomb Hitler made, was it the V1 that had wings? You can make a simple pulse jet, with a jam jar, however it gets rather hot and breaks the glass. These are my experiments: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOK3xum3ras There is ignition, high pressure from the gasses propel out of the orifice. Here is the trick though, it has to be the right size. The first hole I drilled in the cap, was too small. I enlarged it, but it was too large. I didn't have another empty jar to scavenge the cap from so I went into our hardware at the shop and glued a washer on. I could adjust the orifice by changing out washers. I was lucky and picked the proper size to make it work. To make it work the high pressure shoots out, low pressure wave behind it (just like we see in our exhaust), which draws the flame back into the jar to ignite the alcohol vapor. This runs off vapor, not actual liquid, that's why I shake the jar with my thumb over the orifice. You can see for the first couple of tries, the liquid on the jar just burned all the way to the bottom, but after a couple of tries when it was all burnt off, it started up. The white tray was filled with water to cool the glass. I tried with coffee cans because they're metal, but the lid kept flying off. Point of all this, you can see a draw back scavenging method in action. The only change needed is that you don't want outside air being sucked back into the pipe. You want the vacuum to be drawing from the valve overlap. Perhaps this is why a nozzle is in place, to keep outside air out of the pipe. Just like my pulse jets, the orifice diameter needs to be correct. Too little and you will have too much back pressure and kill power, too big and the effect doesn't work properly. I have a feeling this will all eventually lead to flow characteristics like choked flow and mass flow rate because that orifice size will be a very persnickety, picky, annoying number: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mass_flow_rate http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Choked_flow The headers Kameari makes can come in either 45mm or 48mm primaries. This, like I said before, just tunes it to the specific RPM. ClassicZ had a discussion on this which noted that the operating RPM for a 48mm primary is 8000 RPM. I left it at that. I didn't go in to figure out whats going on within the header because I had the numerical values I needed to replicate it but without cool bends. All I was looking for was any hints on nozzles or a stepped design. We can see there is no step in the pipe however a cyclone swirl effect is being induced. I'm going to guess that they're doing this by angling the primary just slightly into the secondary. I don't know if you can eyeball that from the picture but I'm definitely seeing it now. As for lobe center, Kameari tells us one number which is 101º. 2 lobes should have.... two centers.... Later down the line they also tell me the central angle of the intake and exhaust lobes, which are two numbers within 2º of each other... I think these terms are kind of tricky maybe due to the fact that a translator was doing its thing. Central angle may mean something totally different that we would be like OHHHHHHHH if we heard it. Let me check Schneider to see if the Kameari lobe center figures pop up anywhere with generic cams. Maybe its something easy like lobe separation, I don't know. EDIT: Well here is some good news! Schneiders biggest cam not only has a decrease in lift, under .600", but its duration @ .050" is only 268º! Kameari does their cams by @ 1mm which technically is @ .040" and they run just about the same duration! Perhaps now what makes Kameari stand out is the opening/closing time of the valves, and their asymmetric shape. Otherwise, you might as well just buy from Schneider! I'm not seeing any common numbers in here as far as the meaning of Kameari's lobe center. Unless we take the literal meaning, the center of the lobe is at 101º but which lobe, and what about the other. Both intake and exhaust can't be at 101º...