josh817

Yah and I like the look of black flares and spoiler so thats why I'm spray bombing my spoiler with like black krylon. This primer doesn't say whether its lacquer or enamel or acrylic and I need to match my rattle can paint with the primer so it doesn't flake off. :[ I have a feeling that my brake kit won't fit under the 14" wheels and I'm not buying a different set so if I have to get longer studs and space the wheel out I will need flares. I hate fiberglass so I don't want the ones we see on here. Started to look into getting a fender roller and seeing if that will roll that inside lip and maybe flare out the panel a little so its natural? Dad is renting a roller now so whatever happens should be before I paint.

I wanted red but then someone made a good point. "Well what color is your Z car again?" - "red" - "Ah, every sports cars color, could have guessed". Then I saw the price difference. PPG/Dupont $170/quart, Nason, $70/quart with reducer. Yes I know, quality is way different but I just need to get this thing painted before I dive into college poverty. I was looking at the grays too. The paint place ahd this giant binder of colors and it just overwhelmed me because I'm not artistic, not even close, and I'm sitting here going thats the same color as... that, and that, and that. So I pretty much just looked in there and found a blue and said ok I want that one. Then the lady was like "eh that one is a bit more expensive because of the metallic" so I just went to the one beside it, which was the same color (alright fine, argue with me that it wasn't the same color, but it was ).

Never thought about that but it makes perfect sense. My drivers door isn't a 240 where the passengers is so I'm guessing it was hit. The quarter panel on the drivers side is the one that has that crappy joint, plus it has some trim holes which were filled in. They probably replaced those two things. The front panel was fine with nothing unusual. The joint on the other side looks normal so I guess this is what I have to deal with... Previous previous owners... Yes, double previous.

Drive way, was 6:30PM so all the critters were out. When I do my sealer, base, and clear, you do it all after they flash so its like wait 30 minutes between each coats. What I'm saying is that I'll do that in the morning before the bugs come out, this way nothing will land in the paint before it flashes and dries. Or I could do it in the garage but my flaw is that the car is taped up and I can't get in there to steer. Haha, stupid mistake, I'll just jack up the rear so its just off the ground and push it to where it needs to go. Right now the keys are in the ignition so the wheel doesn't lock and I have it so that I can roll it straight out.

Nats in my primer. Fiberglass air dam had some cracks in it, thought the paint would get in there and at least make it less visible. Actually, the air dam had the most runs in it where as my spoiler came out fine.... Lovely Datsun side pillar where the roof meets up with the rest of the car, filled in with lead. There is also lead down where the windshield meets up in the two bottom corners. Now time for Dynaglass! Then another layer of this primer which I will sand, then sealer, 2 coats of color, 3 coats of clear, done! If only it were that easy huh? All of this is way better than what I was doing... sanding the entire car down to bare metal with a carbon disk on a die grinder... That took FOREVER! Actually a month, but still come on. And yes, I'm doing a ratty job and painting over that back hatch outer weather strip because I don't want to buy more since I am poor. It will flake off eventually, probably with the rest of the paint on the car knowing my luck... This primer didn't cover up my "feathered" paint in the areas I couldn't get to. Especially like around the windshield, I purposely left a tiny bit of gasket showing because the old WHITE paint is under there and I just want to paint over it. I'm going to a dark blue so any white showing will be killer. I didn't touch up the door/hatch jams at all because those will be rattle can black, not wasting my automotive paint on areas I know will be hit and chipped. All this stuff I'm worried about showing through I think will be fine with more painting to come. Blue is opaque and I may reduce it 80% rather than 100% so it stays a little thick, all depends. First time to ever spray a car and I had several runs with this primer which was 1:1 primer/reducer and I used a quart of each so thats 2 quarts of fluid for one coat on the entire car. The lady gave me 2 quarts of base with 1 quart of reducer so I'm worried I won't have enough... Actually wait... I'm rattle canning the jams and the rear spoiler so that MAY save me. Who knows, I'm new to this, thought I'd throw in a quick update see what people think otherwise this would be in the paint and body section. PS: My primer sprayed on runny in some spots and I realized I had a 1.4mm nozzle in the gun so I'm guessing to compensate for the lack of spray I held the gun a bit too close to the car causing the runs. I also have a 1.8mm tip but if I have to be thrifty with my base coat then I definitely don't want to be dumping paint everywhere... I think 2 quarts was a bit much for one coat over the entire car. I basically have 2 quarts of everything and no more money for more paint so this is what I have to work with... I found myself spraying over parts of the car which were already sprayed but flashing so it turned darker than the wet paint and I thought I had missed a spot or something so I went back over it. First spray with some waste, I bet it will get better... Well... I HOPE. Come onnnnnn baby just last me 6 years of college and I will have it professionally done!

The pictures posted were from my customers U20 motor that he brought in. I don't know if I want to accept this idea really because of the fact that there is a pattern. The worst is in the center and gets better as you move towards the ends. I still don't know if I like the oil idea either but it plausible IF the thrust/center main bearing has a different oil hole or something in it to make it unique compared to the rest thus making it fail while the others weren't hurt so badly. The dirty crank and the oil issues are causes for bearing failure but like I said, to produce a pattern seems like it bumps those ideas down a little bit. Maybe we should look back at the history of other builds. If it was Greg's first 3.1L perhaps theres still a learning curve but if he had previous strokers which made it out fine, what happened differently on this on then? Thats all I can think of really.

OH GOD! haha "The location: his dads gah-rahge" Those Brits.

^ History channel clip on it

Quit... playing... that... game... It destroys lives! Haha my buddies played WoW sophomore year and just wasted away with some guy who lived in Puerto Rico in his mothers basement. The one friend is #2 class rank out off 700 of us and he makes all A's. When he started WoW, he bombed every class within a month. Hahahaha. Then he stopped and they all went back up to like 105's...

Dude, same thing happened to me but at McDonalds.. drive through guy was like nice Porsche and I almost slapped him. I am so addicted to cars I fall asleep to my Ferrari and/or my F1 track sounds playlist on my Ipod. My girlfriend also left me (morally) because of my Z. Hey, when you need a new motor it takes priority, its her fault for getting slutty while I was trying to get my daily driver Z back on the streets.

Everybody freaks out about aligning the distributor properly on the L motors, its simply not a problem. Whether the dizzy is points or electronic it doesn't matter at what position the rotor is in according to the position of #1 piston. The dizzy doesn't care if the rotor is at 11 o'clock position or 7 o'clock position, the only thing it cares about is at what point its firing. So for instance I think the manual calls for 11:45 position at TDC or something? If your rotor is pointing at 5 o'clock, leave it there and then make sure that your wires are all placed on the correct "prong" or whatever you want to call it on the dizzy cap. 1-5-3-6-2-4 counter clockwise. Examples can be: Or: As long as the rotor is on a point at which a cylinder is firing, just move #1 wire to that point so that #1 @ TDC is firing at that time, then obviously move all the wires to their respective positions. Another good example is like on my motor. I placed #1 @ TDC when building, and my dizzy rotor was way down at like the 5 o'clock positon. We went to start it but we were getting ridiculous amounts of advance to where the motor wouldn't start so what we did was move all the wires clockwise one prong over. This essentially retards everything but put us in the right ballpark. Like I said, as long as you have #1 firing when the dizzy is at a firing position. Even if its in between prongs (not firing) when #1 is at TDC thats fine, it just means you will have excesive advance or retard in your timing according to that little plate on the bottom of the dizzy. Just like on mine, the rotor was between prongs but I still achieve my desirable 35º total advance, however it shows up like this on my plate: If I were to make it so that the plate was at the "A" I would have like... 80º of advance... This doesn't matter though, the plate is a visual but for me its just a distributor lock down. I don't look at the plate to ASSUME what my timing is, I use a timing light so I KNOW what the timing is. So basically for your case do this: 1. Set motor at TDC FIRING (take of valve cover and make sure both cam lobes for #1 are pointing up) 2. Take off the distributor cap, line up your plates and get it all bolted down 3. Check at what position the rotor is in keeping in mind that the rotor will spin counter clockwise 4. Whatever the FIRST prong the rotor is at/fixing to reach when turning counter clockwise, make #1 that prong 5. Go ahead and place all your wires in the proper firing order on the cap 6. Start the motor up, as usual twist it to give it more or less advance and leave it there when it starts up 7. Check your timing, if you find that you are making way too much advance to the point where you can't twist the dizzy enough to fix it, move all your wires clockwise by 1 prong and then check. If you are making way too much retard to the point where you can't twist the dizzy enough to fix it, move all your wires counter clockwise by 1 prong and then check. Also, the bottom and top plates have slots in the so you can twist it, the slots will not line up if one is from a 280 and the other is from a 240. I have a '75 dizzy I think it is with a 240 top plate and the '75 bottom plate. Had to get a file and line up the screw to the slot. Finally, if you're really anal and want everything to go by the book, then plan on pulling your oil pump and rotating the shaft so that the crescent side that goes to the dizzy is in the right position to allow for the "proper" rotor position according to TDC. Hope this helps.

Yes.

Looks like he makes himself at home, anywhere. That other dog looks like a killer...

Haha thats my sisters 29 cent fish that lived for like 4 years in that rank water. She left for college and it was Mom's job to take care of her, of course, Mom doesn't take care of anything so you know...

:[ I miss my big old black doggy. Rebel. I have too many regrets connect to him. :[ He would start to pee everywhere and I never even took into consideration that he was getting old, I would yell. Now I feel horrible that I would yell at him and make him go outside for a little while as punishment when in dog years, he was like 90 or something (13 years old I think). I think black labs have the common hip problem or something. Got to a point where you had to help him up into his chair and then he lost confidence in going outside so he would have accidents every night. Way to go Josh, not cool at all. Thats my sad story for today. :[ At least he was cute:

Did I misspell something.... My sister said that her dog was a wiener dog/dotson right? Dockson? EDIT: AHHHH DACHSHUND I feel like an idiot now.

Oh hey there! Post your animals! Dachshund on my Datsun!

Just curious about the output on a knock sensor. I did some reading and this Accell book says a knock sensor sends out a low voltage sine wave when there is detonation which is then converted and interpreted by the ECU. So I know that like a wideband o2 sensor is a 0-5 output and a narrowband is a 0-1v. I have 2 slots on my ECU for a 0-1v input and then an AUX input for a 0-5v. The AUX is taken up by wideband so I'm curious if I can add the knock sensor I have bagged up, as long as its 0-1v input. Then I can do all sorts of cool ****.

Yah thats a knock sensor, I think on a P90A head its in the block and there is a sensor at the rear of the head which is cylinder head temperature.

Gurney yah! I'll join you on that. Wait... I think thats Gurney... Barnard doesn't quite fit in with all the other racers names.

Ah man I don't like that 30+ stuff. Maybe an '83 L28-ET is better for me. Check in the link I had posted, its all in japanese but you can see at the bottom the "previous page" and "next page" buttons since they're denoted >>>>>>>>>> like that. Those 2 pictures where on the very last page I do believe. The other pages have time slips and some very cool zcar pictures from events over there. EDIT: Here are some of the Kameari headers although they don't match the bends of this one. http://www.rhdjapan.com/jdm-low/Kameari-Exhaust-Manifold-Header-Drag-1-6-48mm-Stainless-Steel-L20-L28-58145 http://www.rhdjapan.com/jdm-low/Kameari-Exhaust-Manifold-Header-Drag-48mm-Stainless-Steel-L20-L28-58143 You know, I'm curious on seeing and hearing an all Kameari L6 now.

Wow guys, I was bored today and stumbled upon this youtube user who has an orgie of Mother Land Z Car videos! Also check out the site they linked the pages to! All the cars he taped were running high 11's its nutso. http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=104zzz&view=videos I don't know what its saying but these guys sure have a lot of cool stuff! http://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/303321/car/199175/1120891/photo.aspx Someone over there has sexy ITB's and a Kameari header I think it is? Its like artwork!

Impressive, hopefully they don't charge you for going through 2 cranks or something silly like that. Greg, I am asking for you to upload some race videos so we can enjoy. You should PM me with them so I can hoard them from everyone else.

^ Orange in the background! That dude is hilarious by the way, you should watch some of his other videos.