josh817

Choke lever should fasten to the center console slot with two screws. It's actually one long cable rapped around a 180º bend at the lever so the two free ends of the cable move together. Not sure what hole in the firewall they went out of but you can probably pic any, just try not to kink or have sharp bends in the cable.

Get lots of rocker arms and beer. Inebriate yourself so its less painful. One of those Datsun race prep books (the one with the 510 going through a sweeping turn) also elaborates pretty well on how to mess with the rocker ratio. Or just throw a turbo on it and don't tell John/tech inspection.

Mine was the same. I've had some sets that didn't come with one side of the front cover as well... Get some gasket making material from the store or if you're lazy you can use some thick stock paper/folders. You can trace and cut out the shape or use a small ball hammer, place the paper on the surface, tap around the edges and it will tap out.

I'm 22 years old and I'm not sure if they will allow me to be a registered driver or if the prices spike. Even if I had it insured under my mothers name (car title is in her name), I don't think I will be able to drive it... insurance wise that is.

Think I'm just going to call them up and ask them what my options are as far as being out of service just to cover my ass.

My Z has been under construction for the past 3 years, not anywhere near done. When I stopped driving her, I registered her as an Antique (registration lasts 5 years and no inspection required but has limited driving). It's time to renew the registration however since then, they require proof of insurance to register. Car isn't insured since I'm not driving it. What do I do next? I don't want to not register it and get hit with penalties when she's ready to drive again. Is there a way to put it on some sort of "out of service" status with the state so I can register it when I am ready, without late penalties?

Took the fuses out for the entire day, now it works. I guess it needs a good long time to reset. Thanks for your suggestion guys!

Damn thing just fell right off, I told it not to but it didn't listen. The door jams are never a good sign, as I am finding out with my accident.... When the adjuster comes out, maybe you can get the hatch open, look in the spare tire well. See if it is crunched in there. I know with my accident the spare tire privided a good buffer, and you could see the fuel tank (between the seats and the trunk) was jutting outward and to the side. Thank god for tire, too bad it was an expensive wire wheel.... Seems like a lot of Z's are getting the wrath in the past few months! Good luck to you

It was squatting hard but didn't look like it was accelerating quickly; I'm so confused!

Oh and I forgot to mention, using the tuner to go through FM stations, instead of doing like 97.1-97.2-97.3-etc it now does 97.1-97.15-97.2-97.25 somehow it's doing .05 intervals...

That's a little annoying that just disconnecting the battery (12v supply) is enough to fry a unit...

Today my truck was giving me hell. Bad ground cable from the battery. I would turn the key on, fuel pump comes on, all electrics come on, but when I went to crank everything just cuts out and its like the battery has been disconnected. Turn the key off, cycle it, no power to anything at all. We found out the ground cable has become loose. Ok so we get it tight, everything works. Radio has been reset but now.... all the buttons work, they do something when I press them, they just don't do what they're suppose to. The "clock" button for instance will change the radio from FM/AM. The tune buttons will adjust the fade and the bass, the old fade and bass buttons are now the up and down for the tuner. I tried cycling the key, removing the face plate, undoing the battery for 20 seconds and reconnecting it, won't go back to normal. It's a Pioneer DEH-1900 Ideas?

#5 or 6, so curious!

You need a kill switch with a resistor pack somewhere in the system. The ones I have worked with have 3 or 4 posts. Reason is for the alternator kill, you cannot disconnect a battery while a car is running with the alternator charging. You will blow the voltage regulator in the alternator by doing this. I have seen a lot of racers put their switch in one of the air vents, or on the quarter window but that's a little ugly. If you have a cage, you can make a little sheet metal panel and put it there too. It needs to be within your reach, and the workers reach though. As a worker, we usually ask you first if you shut the power off; being cynical bastards, we check it too just to make sure. Also good to have it within your reach if you plan on playing at tracks with long straights or gaps between worker stations. We usually don't run with a big fire bottle to your car so we don't injuire ourselves in the process so it will be up to you to shut everything down.

Tony is filled with just as much useful information as PMC, though he doesn't give it out unless your homework has been done (reading). And yes, he is filled with constructive criticism mushed together with sarcasm.

Oh it's getting better by the minute

Cue this guy. Don't forget to add a big handful of dirt and sand into your funnel before you pour oil through it:

Nick whats your age? They wouldn't accept my Z saying it wasn't "show car quality" even though my mother told them it was being restored... Maybe they had a suspicion that I would be the one driving it... when she said it was my car but in her name.

I'm dumb... sorry about that!

Definitely knew to MS here. Haven't installed it in the car so right now I'm just messing with Tunerstudios without MS hooked up. Loaded your file and if it loaded correctly, it shows your spark advance set in the 20º's at higher RPM's/TPS. I didn't read anything in your post about a turbo so is there a reason for it being so low? Strictly curious... before I entered into EFI I was running 34º max advance above 3000RPM.

There is a thread floating around discussing oil squirters for the underside of the pistons if you so desire. One of those how to modify your L engine books says to remove the oil bump on the side of a stock rod because there is too much oil getting up there... I suppose in race conditions. I removed my oil bump when balancing and polishing my rods. Ran just fine before I had the sudden desire to take it all apart.

I didn't think beetles made that much power. We had one over here, an Alfa came in wanting to change out his driveshaft rubber donut joint thing whatever. He bought his own, admitted to it being the cheap brand. Informed him that we can't warranty what you buy, and said it didn't look like the one we were going to get for it.... Told us to continue on. In that Alfa the transmission is in the back, the driveshaft spins with the flywheel. Get it installed, start her up, rattling like a bitch. Turn her off, peek under, tranny case is crumbling out from under the car. Can you tow your car off the property bro, it's greasing up the floor. Actually though, the owner completely understood and didn't argue or even get angry.

I love it when people like that come into my fathers place. Even better when they come in with a really rotten car and want you to fix a single item..... Car is rusted in half, burning tons of oil, over heating, they want you to change the points and put a new starter on that they grabbed out of a field.

Haha I forgot about the valve clearance to the bore! That would make sense I suppose with an 85mm bore. I can't even remember what I used in my motor, if they were small dish L18 pistons or the deep dish L20B pistons. That was the second problem I was thinking about, compression ratio. I read that the 3 valve single cam KA heads (KA24E) had big chambers around 60-65cc and the twin cam 4 valve heads (KA24DE) had 45-ish cc chambers which is right around what my L4 head is now. Mind you, it's my daily driver and I never use high RPM, a stump puller... literally. Which is why if it sounds like I'm being lazy and trying to get by with the bare minimum, it's because I am, so I'm not car-less for a long time rebuilding a motor with only 15000 on it. Anyway, I don't want to hijack. These aren't the droids you're looking for, he can go about his business, move along.

KA head should bolt onto the L block whether it be L16-20b. Have to block off a water or oil port on the head in the back because it matches up with a water/oil on the block. Then there was something you had to do with the front cover, like run a Z20 front cover or something. Not sure how the block height difference with an L20b changes that. Same thing for the timing chain. KA runs a single row chain to the head and I'm not sure what length it needs to be on an L block. Only saying that because I'm seriously wanting to put a stock KA head on my truck with my DCOE's that I have laying around, for some added power compared to my stock L20b... I think a twin cam 4 cylinder with DCOE's looks so slick! Screamin' 1600 like a Cortina or the Alfa's are pretty sweet!