blue72

I can't find the option to PM him either, but go to his member page: http://forums.hybridz.org/member.php?u=16185 He has a regular e-mail address listed there, as well as other communication channels.

All I used was two part epoxy to glue mine onto the back of the push rod. Just some Permatex 4 minute multi-metal stuff I had laying around. It was stuck on there for good after three minutes. I did have to wipe off the excess where it squeezed out, before it hardened.

For the saga of the airdams see this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=107696

Oh great, now you've got me concerned about the wiring in my Z too. I've got a slow drain on the battery, and a wire that fried itself a few months ago. Thanks for the hysteria and good luck with figuring out your own wiring woes.

Yeah, I left the rod where it is at now because the brakes work well, and I don't feel like taking those four bolts off to readjust it. +/- 1/2 an inch of extra pedal throw won't spoil my day. BTW: If you're looking for a cheaper solution, I purchased my MC from Autozone as a reman for $30. I didn't feel so bad replacing it at that price.

I personally would go for the first method. Just pull the wheels, remove the aluminum drums, and adjust the star nut. That way you can try reinstalling the drum. Repeat until the shoes are almost dragging on the drums, but not quite. You never know if one of the little arms that turns the star nut isn't contacting on one side. It's pretty difficult to determine much from inside the vehicle.

Good read so far on the buildup. Looks like one thoroughly thought out project. I'll be interested in seeing it run as I have many of the same engine components as you do.

Well, this is the view from one of my monitors. In case you're wondering, it's not final yet. I've already tweaked it since this render. I will post when it is final though. Oh, and Challenge Stradale.

Well, the rod that I am using is the one that came in the booster I pulled from a '72 240Z in a junkyard. I was also under the assumption that I would have to adjust the length of the rod to make it work with the 280ZX master cylinder. When I removed the rod it had pliers marks on it, and was turned out about three or four threads. I took measurements of its length, but don't have them here with me. I turned it out another 1/2 in. which put it almost at the absolute end of the threads. When I went to reinstall the whole assembly, the rod was way too long, and there was no way the MC and Booster would bolt up. I wound up wrenching it back down roughly to where it had been previously (3-4 threads). That way the two bolted up, and there was little to no gap between them. My brakes come on at less than an inch of throw now. I was just happy that they work, so I left it at that. A word of caution though. If the rod is too far out it doesn't allow the valve in the MC to close, and then your brakes lock up, so don't try that bit.

Hopefully it didn't do too much auxiliary damage flopping around back there.

To quote Toy Story: Buzz: You are a sad, strange little man, and you have my pity. Farewell.

It sounds like you are doing the same process of elimination that many have gone through. Kudos for your searching so far. There is an entire Brake/Wheels/Suspension/Chassis section on this website as well. Perhaps my post from last week will help you as it does indeed sound like the symptoms I had when my reaction disks had fallen out of place (on different boosters). http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=138712 The only other possible culprit that I have read about would be installing the calipers on the wrong sides of the vehicle. I'm not sure if that is possible with the MSA kit, but it places the calipers upside down. This makes it impossible to get all of the air out of them, and consequently a soft pedal. Good luck.

Engine, what... oh, that little thing? Yeah, this thing's a sleeper, but in a very sad way.

Even posting a WTB ad on Craigslist has netted results for me in the past. You never know who has what stashed away in your area.

OOh, good info. Thanks for contributing to the community. I wish I had weighed my Maxima flywheel last time I had it off. They have less material around the inertia ring, and are supposed to weigh 17.8 lbs. It would be nice to know for sure though.

There is always Valvoline VR-1 Racing Oil which contains ZDDP. Of course, last time I mentioned it the discussion veered toward the durability of something marketed as racing oil.

Very clean look. Really nice when you consider that that's just the basecoat. One thing I saw though, is your hood latch support dented? I'll be keeping an eye on this thread if even just to see the final color.

I have searched these intertubes thoroughly to try and find video of that State Farm nowwhat.com commercial, but no luck. Maybe I should actually start watching television.

Hey, my dad had a Buick 350 in his '66 Wagoneer. It ran great until you got it so vertical that it sucked all the fuel out of the float. Backing down a steep hill without power brakes or power steering makes for one exciting ride. Back on topic though. If you were seriously looking to perform the swap then most of the bright points about the '91 and up H.O. 4.0 have been pointed out. Like I said before though, it all comes down to commitment, fabrication skill and the amount of cash/work you were willing to put into it.

Pet peve of mine, those double turn lanes. I used to drive a hotel shuttle van (E-350, their insurance not mine) and I would strictly follow in my lane unless it was a bus or RV that physically did not have the same turning radius. Only got bumped into once, but blasted a horn many a time at people who got came too close for comfort. Amazing how many people think its your fault that you are in the lane you are supposed to be in. Perhaps there should be some sort of refresher course on basic traffic laws in larger cities.

What is a crystler anyway? Is it one of those cars that makes crystling noises when you step on the accelerator? Or does it have a special engine made to run on chrystl oil? Sorry, but broad sweeping statements aren't looked upon favorably here. If every car that was produced by a specific company were in fact junk, then they quite honestly would not be in business anymore. Oh, and ever seen a Ford GPW? Okay, so they were made before AMC or Chrysler owned the Jeep marquee, but they have plenty of history collaborating

Okay then, just read the links we put up for you. If you want my opinion, it would be a cool idea. I haven't heard of anyone doing it in the past. The main problem I would come across is the financial equation. First you would have to swap a Jeep H.O. 4.0, including custom engine mounts, injection, computer, transmission, custom driveshaft, etc... Next would come any modifications to make more power. All of this work and expense would greatly outweigh building up a potent L series, or just finding a drop in L28ET. True, the Jeep engine has more displacement, and perhaps some more potential power, but that all comes at a cost. My modified N/A L28 makes about 60-70 more horsepower than my mostly stock Cherokee, and is in a car that weighs 600lbs less. Keeps me happy. In all fairness, they are both good reliable engines, but why replace something proven, tried and true?

Search is your friend. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=138722 Also, you might google fluid temperature ratings and choose a gear oil viscosity appropriate to your environment.

I think the argument goes that the AZC manifold is good, but other designs aren't nearly as well thought out, or people don't understand their Holley carbs. The cam gear is just an aftermarket piece, nothing special. It was probably replaced during the rebuild. You might want to check the head with a quality straightedge to make sure it isn't warped. Personally, I'd stick with the P-79 after reading through all of the cylinder head discussions on these boards. If you wanted more compression it could be shaved, the cam towers shimmed, and different valves installed. That way you keep all of the "quench" capability which is supposed to help ward off detonation. I'm also partial to the SU carbs, but that decision is up to you. By all calculations my F54/P79/SU combo should be making 250 or so HP, but I have quite a bit of head work, a hotter cam, and my SU carbs were overbored and worked over by Rebello. A plain jane F54/P79 SU carbed rebuild would probably be in the 170-180 range. Also, what do you mean by rear bearing on the transmission? Are you talking about the tailshaft area where the bearing and seal are that the driveshaft fit into? Was the seal area dented, or just the sheet metal dust cover?

Just spotted the back end of a yellow 280Z in the Pelican Brief. It is in the scene where Julia and Denzel are being chased through a parking garage. Its at the 39 minute mark on the DVD