blue72

"The Circuit" never gets old does it? That one's been around since 2006. After plenty of searching I did manage to find a .mov of it that's in better quality than the one on streaming sites like YouTube. Can't remember where it was now though.

Getting very close to being all assembled now. I had to make my own brackets to mount the '73 bumper on my car. It was much straighter than the original '72 bumper that came on my car though. I did drive it for the first time in 8+ months today. It was nice to feel the sensation of rapid acceleration again. Items left to do: Mount stainless windshield trim Adjust alignment on bottom half of passenger side door Buy and mount front bumper rubber strips, mount overriders Solve fuel delivery problem Install new front tension rod rubber bushings Purchase and install white seat upholstery in place of current black set Tint visors white Safety inspection and registration Then I should just be able to enjoy it. I was going to take some more pictures as the sun was setting, but as I drove to the back of the neighborhood that fuel delivery issue crept up on me again, so it'll have to wait until another day.

That's what I've always read too, uncut it should be 107.9mm.

He's looking for a cast aluminum oil pan from a company called Arizona Z Car, not a stock steel piece.

I just paid less than $40 for a remanufactured one of these, and that was including the core charge. They're available from most any auto parts store. Finding a brand new one is a bit tougher, and like LanceVance said, they're considerably more expensive. I've got a leaky used one I'd sell you for cheap though.

There's always this thread full of L series: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/73648-show-off-your-engine-bay-pics-wanted-l-series/

Ha ha. Okay, I'll give you that one.

Ever seen cars from the brass era? Plenty of them from that general time frame had a handle that you'd pump to pressurize a tank, which would push fuel up to the carburetor.

Simple answer: If it came with fuel injection, it will not have an eccentric on the cam to run a low pressure manual fuel pump.

Okay, so which bolt are you referring to if it isn't the proprietary one that the wingnut screws into? There are four bolts that hold the air cleaner backing plate to the carburetors themselves. There are two different types of bolts among those four. The outer two are just regular bolts with lock washers to retain them. The inner two bolts are special (hence the term "proprietary" or perhaps "bespoke" if you prefer) and I have never seen their like in any hardware store or fastener retailer's outlet location. These bolts: They too have lock washers, but the wing nuts thread into the back of them. Each of these four bolts are an 8 x 1.25 thread. The overall length of the shouldered area combined with the threads is approx. 20mm. That measurement does not include the taper at the end. The long wingnut fasteners are the same diameter and thread pitch, but I'd have to take one off of my car to measure it's length if that is the fastener to which you are referring. I'm sharing this info because I've been in this same situation. When I bought my car it was missing all of the air cleaner attachment hardware. Like I said, I've never seen those inner bolts for sale anywhere and the only way I've ever come by them is when buying complete air cleaner assemblies. Hopefully, with the right search terms, others will come across this information when they need it in the future. Unfortunately, the thread title is not very descriptive at all. If it were something like "SU Air Cleaner Bolt Thread Pitch" it'd be easier to spy for future searchers. Oh, and yes, it can hurt any engine to run without an air cleaner. It's one of the basic parts that keeps dirt and dust out of the engine.

I've only ever installed or removed it with the gas tank in place. Easy enough to slip a hand and wrench up the side between the inner fender and the tank.

Before I acquired my car, I was heavily leaning toward a SBC swap and building a 383 for it. Time, budget and most of all workspace constraints (rented room, 1/2 of a 2 car garage) ended that line of thinking pretty quick. When I fired up the 2.4L inline six for the first time (it had been sitting a couple years) I felt a sense of accomplishment. When I first got the car drivable I was actually quite impressed with the "peppiness" of the little motor. When I swapped my first head gasket I started to see the brilliance of the design for that time period. It grew on me until later I swapped in an L28 that I rebuilt on my side of the garage floor. The car is perfectly adequate for what I do with it and I enjoy explaining it to others. I'm in the same boat now with my 510, always wanted an SR, but budget says I'm staying stock L16 for now. Last week I got the motor fired up after 20 years sitting. Who knows where this will wind up.

I think it's just you. Photo looks entirely plausible to me.

Ooh, very good. I just googled "Dodge Colt Engine" and they look nearly exactly the same.

Uuuum, I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say 4 cylinder, likely pre 1990s.

Aha, guess I haven't looked too closely at the windshield area of an S130 before. Still, I did do something similar inside my car. I have a couple of X-acto knife sets that had thin, 5-6" long blades. They worked great to cut through the sealing adhesive (and rubber seal in my case), working from inside the vehicle. The thin blade could flex some and was long enough to cut all the way through with a few passes. Just be very careful not to jab through the adhesive and onto bare metal.

That would have worked too. I've seen emblems done like that, stuck into pieces of cardboard. The cowl piece was actually secured with coat hangers that were hooked over the tops of those old pieces of particle board shelving.

How hard and rotted is the rubber? On my '72 Z I used a dremel and a high speed metal bit to cut through the rock hard seal. Hopefully yours isn't that bad.

Z car custom triple SU carb manifold w/ balance tube in Surprise, AZ: http://phoenix.craigslist.org/wvl/pts/2099745393.html

These guys have done a number of Nissan / Datsun copper head gaskets as well: http://www.headgasket.com/gaskets.html I believe they've got L28 measurements in their archives.

What's the plan if you manage to secure a model, if you don't mind me asking?

Kiss Kiss Bang Bang - 2005 Seen parked on the street during a flashback sequence.

Not S130, but I stumbled upon a cf cowl for the S30 chassis on Yahoo! Japan auctions.

I do like SEM products. I've used this vinyl dye before on a shift boot, door panels as well as some interior plastic and it has held up really well. After I removed all the interior I also repaired the dash (foam, bumper repair epoxy, texture coat) and painted it with the black SEM Color Coat. I'd love to bring the Z down to Vegas sometime after it's done. That'd be the closest drag strip to me unless the locals get their financial game together and finally pave the Hurricane Raceway. I'm on the western side of southern Utah. As far as the hood goes though, it is long gone. I wound up making a partial trade with it to get the metal hood that's on my car now. The setup was kinda ridiculous when I bought it, L24E engine block with an E88 head on it and a broken fiberglass cowl induction hood that had been reinforced with a piece of wood. If me and the car ever wind up back down in Phoenix it'd be funny to take it by the house of the guy I bought it from. He definitely wouldn't recognize it now.