blue72

Not actually trying to actively pick the car apart, mostly just found the picture curious. The silly thing about the written word is that sometimes you can't convey inflection quite so well as you'd like. It could be foreshortening tricking the eye in this one photo, but the line on the driver's side did look like it might be close to the exhaust. As Tony said, this car has been driven extensively so it mustn't be a problem. I can see now the line on the passenger side with the heat shielding on it. I have a fuel injected big block in one of my vehicles and I had to run braided steel lines that are closer to the exhaust than I would like and over 5,000 miles haven't had any problems with vapor lock.

Is it just me, or do those fuel lines look like they are way too close to the exhaust?

I plugged mine up while doing the body work. Like BluDestiny said, I cut a piece of sheetmetal to the same size and bent it to match the contour of the surrounding area. After very carefully welding it in place (don't want to warp the metal by overheating it) I ground the extra weld down. If done right, it should hardly need any filler at all.

But it has that super rare upside-down gauge cluster option!

Mine is Datsun Color Code 072 Blue Poly (metallic) Here's a picture while I was waiting in the lineup for a local car show this weekend.

Its a render of a 3D model. The car exists as 1s and 0s.

SU carbs should bolt up to P79 heads, no problem. Never heard of one not having the holes for it. I've got '72 SUs and intake on an '81 P79. All I had to do was make a couple new holes in the intake/exhaust gasket and re-arrange the bolts.

Yowza! So many goodies... nearly unbelievable.

They made a few different 2bbl downdraft manifolds for L6 engines and even a couple of 4bbl ones. They were never offered stock on any Nissan/Datsun vehicle here in the states. This kind of thing is fairly common in Japan, Australia, etc... I've got a different L6 2bbl manifold I pulled from a 280Z in a junkyard. It had been the recipient of a JDM engine swap sometime in its life.

I've done this also. Just had to be very careful to keep all aluminum shavings out of the engine. I actually did mine with the head on a bench and all of the valvetrain tightly wrapped and taped. Took a big drill bit to make some pilot holes and enlarged it with a Dremel until the fuel pump arm fit through with no interference. It works just fine. I'm running overbored SUs with no problems except for vapor lock in the summer, so eventually it will get an electric pump back by the tank too.

Pick-A-Part yards, 2 of them Came across an early 300ZX with a 3.9:1 longnose R200 Pulled the halfshafts, mustache bar, mount, etc... from a 280Z in another yard.

The King of Comedy, 1983. A silver 280Z drives by as Robert De Niro and Sandra Bernhard are stalking Jerry Lewis in New York.

Yep, you've got the good round top SU carbs. The header is aftermarket, definitely not a stock cast iron (or is it cast steel?, can't remember) exhaust manifold. You do have the '73 style intake manifolds and thin carb spacers. It appears that the balance tube is an earlier piece too, without so many emissions provisions, but like you said, it appears that all of the emissions equipment has been removed and all of the extra ports capped or plugged.

I've got this one that came off of my car and is still in good shape. The engine was from an '81 ZX.

I actually took mine apart and replaced the broken/worn plastic nubby with one from a later Z switch I bought at a Pick-N-Pull type place. I then soldered the wires back on and its going strong to this day.

Just realized you're only a little over 2 hours drive from me.... Hmmmm... I'd like to put period correct A/C on my 510 some day.

Could be your switch. I had the same thing happen to me and my problem was that a little plastic nub in the light switch had worn so much that it caused the switch mechanism to short, melting the solder that held a couple of wires to it.

Does it still spin freely? When I bought my car it had everything but the compressor.

I'm actually running SU carbs on a P79 and using the fuel injected intake/exhaust (round/round) gasket. Just drill or punch out the extra couple holes to mount your carburetors and away you go. The injector holes are covered up completely either way.

No matter how hard he tries, I don't think the guy is ever going to reach 88 mph in that room.

Sorry, been out of town for more than a week and away from my parts. I'll update on Monday or Tuesday.

Hmmm, I've got one but it looks different than the piece that came off your car. It's at the top of this picture. The other two are A/C tensioners I believe.

Is that a strut tower brace which is only attached via one bolt on each side, and then covered with faux stainless hose wrap?

I just installed a set on my 510 this week too. I found that a small prybar can be used to coax any errant seals back up again. Just make sure to protect the valve cover sealing surface so that it doesn't get marred when prying against it.