blue72

Well, sounds like the Cherokee is for you then. Engine = AMC, Transmission = Aisin (Japan), Body Design and engineering = Renault (France). Seriously though, avoid all but the '91 up 4.0L H.O. If you do you'll have one of the single most reliable drivetrains ever put in a motor vehicle.

Less than 1,000,000 miles? That's not even broken in yet! You can find used Cherokees all day for dirt cheap. Even though mine's in excellent condition with 200,000 miles on it the blue book value is barely above $2000. Plus, about the best fuel economy most can expect is 18mpg on the highway with the 4.0. The good ones are the 1991+ model years with the 4.0L engine. Earlier ones had other drivetrains and / or a less desirable fuel injection system.

Some reading for you: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/41824-p79-vs-p90/ http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/54639-exhaust-runners-p-79/ http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/33246-my-head-flow-work-and-graphs/

I've towed my sub 2000 lb drivetrainless 510 across town on my 16' deck flatbed car hauler dual axle with my 4.0L Cherokee that doesn't have a trailer brake controller. I had never experienced that kind of extremely sluggish acceleration and frighteningly long braking distances before. The rated towing capacity on my Cherokee is 5000 lbs and it sure felt like I was using it all even if I probably wasn't. Towing my fully loaded 6000+ lb Suburban across town on the same trailer in a new 6.0L VortecMax 1/2 ton Chevy Pickup with built in brake controller was a piece of cake, night and day difference. Of course, the truck also had a 10,600 lb towing capacity and 150 lb-ft more torque than my Jeep. Sorry to hear about your laptop. You can usually score used MOBOs on ebay for a decent price if you're up to swapping it out yourself.

In the US there is a sum total closely approximating 0 of what you describe.

Who made that intake manifold? I've got an SK triple intake with that exact same lip on the cylinder head mounting side. Like Xnke said, it was made for an L20A. I measured mine and the lip had an ID of 30mm while the area just behind the bump actually measured an ID of 34.75mm. Just cut that lip out.

That actually is a pretty good vote as far as pulling ability goes. My dad had one of that vintage with a 5.3 that did great with a ski boat behind. I can't offer experience with any of the others mentioned. On a side note, as the son of a transmission mechanic and as a matter of semantics, there is no such thing as a new transmission for a '98 Honda. Either used, rebuilt or remanufactured.

I did my engine bay with cans. I found a paint supplier that mixed up a quart of the original Datsun color code in the original style acrylic enamel. From there they put it into four spray cans for an additional charge. I don't think I even finished off two cans doing it that way, and it is the exact same paint you'd spray from a gun. As far as durability goes, I had the same process done with a light blue and sprayed it on the engine block itself. It's still there two years and many miles later.

Please select your answer to the following question carefully: Can you drill two holes in an intake / exhaust gasket for a Nissan L6 engine? a: Yes b: No If you answered 'a' to the above question then you too can bolt a set of SU carburetors to your engine that was originally fuel injected!

Yup, pretty much the same image that was being referenced earlier in the thread.

I believe that problem only manifested itself in the first few batches they made. I ordered and installed the same Performance Products single row pulley about a year and a half ago and it slid all the way down the crank snout by hand, just like an OEM damper.

$9500 '75 Fairlady Z for sale in Texas: http://houston.craigslist.org/cto/1961774838.html

Ah crud. I just came across this one on craigslist and thought I was 'gunna get the jump here.

Wow, a 5 year old thread? Okay, like NewZed said, you want the booster for your car. Believe me, the 280Z booster has a completely different bolt pattern than a 240Z booster.

In junkyards by myself before, while pulling heads off of L engines I've simply used a crescent wrench on the flat spots in the camshaft and jammed a small wood block between the head and the wrench to prevent mangling the valve cover mating surface. From there, attach breaker bar to cam bolt and pull! I've had one that was especially stubborn until it met my good friend kinetic energy, provided by an old spare tire chucked at the breaker bar.

Huh, guess I forgot to check back on this thread. Didn't realize a couple people asked questions about one or two of my pictures. @ Tx1012: Thanks! Yes, I have hiked a few of the slot canyons in this area. I've done the full 14 mile Narrows once, hiked Orderville Canyon (which dumps into the north fork of the Virgin River) a few times and I've done a three day hike / rappel trail through Wildcat Canyon in Kolob. That one was pretty exciting, especially when I snapped my pack clean in half on the last rappel and still had many miles to hike. The Subway trail is still on my list of canyons to explore though. @ p-factor: High school and new college kids here complain that there's nothing to do. Do they not have eyes in their heads??!!?!? The pictures I posted were actually from the opposite side of the canyon, straight across from Angel's Landing. It's on a jog that splits off from the East Rim trail called Hidden Canyon. That fin of rock in the middle of the first picture is actually Angel's Landing, the one you were standing on in your picture. I've done that hike too, but that was before I had a digital camera. Still managed to stuff a 35mm SLR into my Camelback and made the round trip in 2 hrs only stopping to take pictures of Walter's Wiggles and the view from the top. The people with sewing machine leg who were clinging for dear life to those chains were giving me odd looks as I leapt past them. Here's a picture I took at the beginning of June (yes, in June there was still over 6' of snow in a few places). This is a roughly 200° panorama of Cedar Breaks National Monument. I was up there helping install an interactive video display and couldn't resist snapping a few pictures before leaving for the day. And this is what some typical clouds look like during a typical sunset here. I took this one from the middle of the street in front of my house.

I've tried the dry ice thing. Did absolutely nothing on some stretched metal in a fender, or any other place I tried and I was at it on and off for the better part of an hour. Too bad this discussion took place 6 years ago. Looks like the OP hasn't even logged on since June of this year.

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/85365-battery-keeps-dying/ http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/37916-battery-drain/ http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/articles/zap/ http://www.wikihow.com/Find-a-Parasitic-Battery-Drain http://flashoffroad.com/electrical/Batteries/BatteryDrain.html

That looks great, much better than the other examples you posted. Just make sure to remember if you set the R/F switch to either channel 3 or 4. That can be frustrating. I really hope you don't have to take the hard drive out and blow on the connectors constantly. I've got the original cleaning kit if you need it.

Okay, does the "What will I need now?" question have anything at all to do with your thread title? If you are just rebuilding it as a stock sized L28 then the answer to that question is going to be completely different compared to the answer for a 3.1L overbore. Hint: If it is just one piston bore that is chewed up and you are staying at a 2.8L size I'd have that one hole bored out and sleeved back to the original size. Or just find another L28 block. They're pretty cheap.

I'm not sure if they are available anywhere anymore. There has been some discussion on the subject over at classiczcars.com: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34094&highlight=master+vac+hose

Here, perhaps a couple of pictures might help show one of the differences that is being discussed. Top bumper = from my '72 240Z. One of the studs on this side is broken. Bottom bumper = from a late '73 240Z (flat top carbs, etc...) in a junkyard The later bumper will not bolt directly to my early brackets. You can see that the studs on the later bumper are spaced much farther apart (and out) than on the early bumper.

Was this Widowmaker you've referenced saddled with 30:1 planetary reduction boxes on each wheel?

Okay, finally got my hands on a cheap, used set of L18 pistons and rods. I cleaned up two of them in my solvent tank before weighing. Note: I measured two separate rods because they had different casting numbers. Just like before, these are individual rod weights and not an average taken from multiple pieces. L18 - Pistons w/ rods purchased from ratsun board member Rod Length = 130.35mm Rod Stamp # Both A87-1 (rods 3 and 4) and A87-2 (rods 1 and 2) Rod Weight A87-1 = 690.4 g Rod Weight A87-2 = 688.4 g Wristpin Diameter = 21mm Wristpin Weight = 120.2 g press fit design Rod Big End Diameter = 53mm Piston Diameter = 85mm Piston Dish = 4.36 cc Piston Weight w/ Rings = 442.6 g* Top Piston Ring Groove = 2mm 2nd Piston Ring Groove = 2mm Oil Ring Groove = 4mm *I only had half of a top compression ring to work with, so I doubled its weight and added it to the total. This photo may help explain why I was able to acquire these at such a reasonable price: Holy flying chunks of piston Batman! No, I didn't use that piston for the weight above, but rather an intact slug instead.