Nismo280zEd

oh sweet... thanx. -Ed

actually I took the pulley off the other day.. the key was about half worn threw.. about to shear. So I replaced it with a nissan spec key from a spare motor I have... no play anymore and I feel confident that fixed the problem. -Ed

Well the fact still remains that I can no longer obtain a nice pretty new fuel rail lol. Oh well. I guess I'll keep the tripples for a little longer in light of new information. -Ed

OK so I went up to the shop yesterday with both Halfshafts. I've known this guy for a while and I always recomend him to anybody needing machine work done in the Houston Area. He's always honest and gives it to ya straight. I went up there and told him what was going on and that I wanted to know if it was part failure or bad install. Turns out it was neither. The U joints where fine and the install was good... problem is my rear suspension. He showed me where the yolks have been hitting the mounting plates on the halfshafts causing them to spread and bend the caps. So basically my halfshafts are toast and I have to find a donor pair. I noticed when I took them off that the bushing on the driver side of the mustache bar was toast and new metal was showing. So I'm guessing my diff is floating as well as my suspension being too soft for the torque i'm putting out now. -Ed

It's really too bad him and Ross couldn't collaborate to keep the Z parts in circulation. As far as I'm aware Ross doesn't make any fuel or engine related parts. -Ed

yeah.. ya gotta be careful of those stray dogs on the highways here in TX. ....ugh....

very impressive -Ed

It's too bad.

yeah i'm takn' them up to the shop monday, I've never had any problems with this shop before, very disapointed. Only thing that sucks.. it's every single new joint. so another 4 U-Joints. -Ed

lol with you a spare set of rear tires lol. complete set of spare tools as well as water, coolant, and oil. Rain-X might benefit your ghetto one wiper setup as well. Also you need new door seals bro. The ones I took off weren't even worth trying to save they had holes in the rubber and were very dry rought. -Ed

Now the noise has gotten extremely loud I ducked under the car again to see wtf was going on. To my dismay... the U-Joints have slop in them causing them to hit each other as the rotate causing the noise. So is this the machine shop doing a bad install with the press or faulty U joints?

yes it's done with a relay and timmer. I think the easiest thing to do is install a stop switch near one of the arms under the cowl. I just manually turn mine off. -Ed

Anybody know what happened to JSK Innovations? I can't seem to find the site anymore.. it appears to be no longer. Is there a new site? Check through the vendor forum with no luck. I'd like to purchase a fuel rail. -Ed

sounds alot like swadgelok fittings. basically compression fittings on pipe used widely in the oil and gas industry and aeromotive. You can easily use a double flarred fitting to connect your hard steel line to a flexible pvc line or something similar. -Ed

I recently re-wired my own fuse box.. only way to get the 280 fuse box out is clippers.

I've already replaced the pulley and the key once on this motor because the rubber in the harmonic balancer was shot and throwing it off balance, but this pully doesn't even have 2k miles on it! I'll check the key and see if it's worn at all today. Thanx for the suggestions -Ed

Nope, the threads are clean.. I checked that when I put thread lock on it. Only thing I can think of is one of my pulleys being bent somehow. -Ed

Porsche also uses this method to raise and lower their precious 911's except they are squar holes. -Ed I either roll my up on ramps and raise it from there or use the rear diff or put a 2x4 under the fromt cross member and raise it that way.

OK... I should mention that I was the first to do the wiper conversion my name is Ed Henkel get it right. And the motor I used was from a 94 Honda accord EX. Why don't you contact me for problems instead of clogging up this thread again? -Ed

Ok... about the last month my crank pulley keeps coming loose and I can't figure out why. My belt is fine, nice and tight. I've torqued the bolt back down several times to only find it loose a couple days or weeks later. The last time I put thread lock on it with no availe any ideas why it's coming loose all of a sudden? I never run past stock redline. -Ed

haltech will work with 16volt ? or you doing to reduce the voltage to the ecu? -Ed

This is actually what i'm doing... going back to EFI for the driveability and milege. Gonna get a microtech prolly and junk the AFM. -Ed

It's good stuff... although the texas sun finally got to it... the 100 plus temps chalked up the roof lol I knew it would happen eventually. -Ed

all the z experts on this board and nobody knows?

This is definatly half shafts, not drive shaft. It seems to be heat related, the hotter it is outside the louder they squeak or click. They are so loud I thought bolt was loose, but all are tight. Like I said before... when the car is on jack stand and I rotate the wheels, it makes zero noise, they are greased and the fittings are tightend. It only squeaks when the car is on the ground.. I can push it forward and it squeaks, but I can't find on what. Nothing rubs the halfshafts. The noise it made before was a clunk because the rubber seal failed and deteriorated the bearing on one U-joint. No hammer was used to remove from the car. Machine shope replaced them for me, I installed back in my car. However, I did put a lil grease on the backside of the halfshaft to the Diff connection, is this what's causing noise? Driving me Insane, you can easily hear the clicking or squeaking from outside my car as it drives by. -Ed