ryant67

Looks awesome, can't wait to see how the dash turns out!

Greddy has it up on their site for sale now, and I don't mind the look of it at all. $3600 is a little on the expensive side. http://www.shopgreddy.com/17020400.html

Wow, everything looks absolutely stunning, incredible work!! Edited: asked a question before I really grasped what I was looking at, nevermind

I pulled these suckers from my previous-owner-built 3.0 stroker motor. They appear to be Z22S pistons (87mm) with the dish shaved from them, which effectively makes them flat tops, albeit with some useless valve reliefs. Pin height looks to be around 33.5mm. The engine ran L24 rods, LD28 crank, and and E31 head. Compression looks like it would have been around 10.5:1, and I never experienced any detonation, although the camshaft had .520 lift. With a P90 head, you would be about 9:1 compression with a stock head gasket. Man, was that ever a fun engine, until I spun a bearing anyway...

^ itsmillertime - pic isn't showing, maybe link it instead, or retry? And now I will go ahead and spam a pic of my 240Z

To further confuse matters, the series 1 console was also a little different from the series 2 console. Different ash tray location, different fuse box cover, and some other things.

One of those fancy extra tough car wrap products would probably be a great idea. Just do the sides and replace it every year or so as needed. If you can build a car like that, paying a little extra to wrap parts of it shouldn't be much of a concern.

Nice to have another option in this useful size. Looks like it could be a very good tire. 60 treadwear rating and about $160USD per. Great feedback from the Porsche dudes: http://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-gt3-forum/613352-who-has-uses-pirelli-pzero-trofeo-tires.html

I'm a little conflicted about the kit. It's not my thing, as I love the S30 for the lines it has in stock form, but I can also appreciate the need for widening when people are building track cars. It never hurts to have another option. With some tweaking the Rocket Bunny kit could potentially be a reasonable alternative to the Arita Speed kit, as it seems to do similar things, such as open rear flares, full tire coverage at the front, etc. No idea what either kit does by way of aerodynamics mind you. They had a couple of nice ideas, and the way the front flares blend into the crease of the body works pretty well. The rears seem poorly thought out though and just float on there with no real connection to the shape of the car. Perhaps they should have rode higher to tie in with the 'haunch' by the c pillar? I fully agree that having the rears extend over the door isn't a good look. Found this pic online, and the car doesn't look too bad from this angle at least...

From what I have read on here, they would have to be sleeved. The max you can bore out an LD28 block to is something along the lines of 86/87mm. While they are a smaller bore, that doesn't translate to having any additional meat on the cylinder walls.

The only gas powered LD28 block I have seen was in this YouTube video: The guy had a thread on here: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/42082-32-liter-stroker-ld28-block-and-crank-video/ Seems like a lot of extra work. Not sure how you would get up to 3.5L either.

It would be an interesting swap, but not something you should do to a series 1 with matching numbers... If you have the space, grab a cheap 280Z and have at it!

Cheers for the replies, folks. Reassuring to hear that it's not really anything to be worrying about - I think I was just a little unsure since my old engine was running much less pressure at higher RPMs, but that's likely down to the difference between a tired engine and a newer engine with tight clearances, as well as the turbo oil pump. Good advice, Tim. I usually idle for a few minutes before driving, then keep the RPMs below 3k or so for the first 10-15 minutes. Oil needs a bit more time to heat up from what I have read. John, I don't actually know what oil temperatures my engine is running, but it's an interesting thought. I have the provision to add another gauge in the dash as I have reworked things a little inside, so I might throw on an oil temp gauge, can't hurt.

Thanks! Anything I can't do myself, I trust to Glenn Foote Auto Repair (https://www.facebook.com/GlennFootesAuto). Guy was a mechanic at Kingston's Nissan dealership for 20+ years and left to open his own shop - also owns a 78' 280Z, and works on a lot of old Z's. He did a ground up restoration on HLS30-006## last Winter, turned out very nice. Great guy! The engine is Grannyknot's old Whitehead L28, which I bought from him through the OZC forums back in June - I pretty much stripped it down to just the long block and put on my own ignition, carbs, header, etc. I haven't had it on the dyno yet, no, but I am hoping to get some dyno time in next Spring as it isn't pulling quite as hard as I think it should be. Grannyknot managed 188hp with SU's, a stock-ish exhaust, and distributor, so I would hope to at least equal that.

Hey folks, I put an L28 engine in my 240Z a month ago and have noticed that it seems to be running a bit more oil pressure than my previous 3.0 stroker. It is an F54 block with flat tops and an N42 head - 9.5:1 compression. I am running the turbo oil pump on it. Here is what I am seeing for pressure: 1k RPM - 20psi 3k RPM - 80psi 5-6k RPM - 90psi The oil dipstick reading is sitting about 2mm below max. Oil is Valvoline VR1 10W30 synthetic, and the filter is a Wix. Video to show things: Is this excessive, should I be concerned? If so, what should I check?

I recall reading on Sean's business page on Facebook, "Zstory", that he designed all of his headers to clear LHD vehicles - the logic being that is it works for LHD, then it will certainly also work for RHD. So yes, LHD clearance won't be an issue.

The local track had a test and tune event last night, so I took the opportunity to head to it and do a few drag runs and work on my carb tuning. Had a blast, but I'm really not impressed with the times I was laying down. My 60' times need some work, so that explains my slow ET a little, but the car *should* be capable of much better. I'll be checking my timing this week to confirm it's where it says it is, and double checking some carb things. My wideband was around low 11's to mid 12's during the run on the timeslip, which is a bit rich. The previous owner of this engine laid down 188whp on the dyno with SU carbs, stock distributor, and a 2" exhaust system. Surely my Mikunis, Electromotive ignition, and 3" exhaust should support better numbers. The answer is probably in the tuning somewhere, dyno time in Spring I guess... I'll also be thinking about refreshing my old E31 head and throwing an aggressive Isky cam in it. Worst case scenario being if I am unhappy with the power, I can just swap heads and maybe wake things up a little. But hey, the car *is* back on the road and I am enjoying driving it, so it ain't all bad

3.3L? RB crank, or sleeved LD28 block, or? Ambitious, but could be pretty special if it all came together properly. Any particular reason for wanting more than a standard 3.1 (or even 3.2) stroker?

Purchased - it comes as a part of the Techno Toy Tuning Tri-bar: https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/z-front-tri-bar-add

Congrats on the milestone!! Think you'll manage to squeeze in a little drive time with the car before winter hits?

Some finishing touches: - Added some 45 degree AN fittings to my fuel lines for the carbs, which lowered things just enough for the Cusco strut brace to clear. - Installed T3 triangulation bar. - Hacked off one of the clips on my ITG air filter for clearance. - Converted to Lokar throttle cable. Made a basic bracket for it that attaches to one of the heatshield support arms at the side of a Mikuni. MUCH improved throttle response now, loving it. - Re-routed the brake vacuum line to avoid any clearance problems with the throttle linkage. To form the shape I rammed 3/8 copper tubing inside 3/8 rubber line, wasn't easy, but it went. Then I carefully bend the tubing to shape. Brakes still work perfectly, easy job. - Rerouted the braided fuel line slightly to be more direct. Not much left to do at this point, just some fine tuning to the carb jetting. Very happy with how things are looking under the hood, and how well the car seems to be running.