Sideways

Thought id share for any who might be interested. Finally dynoed my car at our shop and got it tuned. Stock motor, 460cc injectors, t3/t4 turbo, 3" turbo back, Npr fmic, 60mm throttle body, msd 6a ignition, haltech e6a, im sure im missing something but meh thats the bulk of it. This was the result. This run was on the waste gate pressure of 9 psi, but it stayed a hair under 10 psi most of the way. The car laid down just over 300 at 18 psi and 360 pound of torque, but sadly i was unable to save these results. It also turns out this was done on 5 good cylinders. Cylinder 5 broke the ring lands and had some wicked blow by going on, a compression test yielded an incredible 60 or so pounds of compression on the cylinder. Ill have the motor back together with new pistons within a couple days and have some new runs/results for everyone whos interested.

Found this article and thought some people around here might like to give it a try. If you get bored enough to try this post your results! http://www.instructables.com/id/Measure-the-drag-coefficient-of-your-car/step1/Equipment/

If i cant find one local youll be the first one i come to- Thanks

Hope someone can help me here. Looking for a hood latch (the part that actually bolts to the hood). Stuck in socal and need one to get back to vegas If you have one laying around or something please let me know, You can contact me by email at SidewaysGts@gmail.com or if possible call me at 702-505 6896 (If i dont answer just leave a voice mail). I can paypal, get cash, whatever works best

This is why i had my block O-ringed. Impressive numbers btw- I cant wait to have mine tuned here soon.

Iunno, I hear about a camry doing a 5.x second 0-60 and for at least a moment i have to wonder "how". Indeed technology does move on, but thats what i like to know. I concur entirely about the thrill of driving our old cars, much more "machine" and raw like than anything else. But I want to understand new technology so I can make my old car better- as is typical with the hybridz mentality. But the point i was really making was in relation to the 0-60 times others have posted. If a simple camry can do such good times, surely our cars can do better with some proper thought and work. Granted in this case its mostly tire and a moderate traction control system- Its just neat to think about how far cars and their technology have come from our 40 year old cars.

Totaly random tidbit some might find interesting/slightly relevant- Toyota Camry SEs do 0-60 in under 6 seconds now. Really makes you wonder

Somehow i dont think he worries much about his wife wanting to drive his car. His daughters though? Ive seen the way those little grease monkies eye his car when theyre giving him a helping hand

Ive read a lot about that and have to wonder. Sorry if youve mentioned this phil but let us know how that 90mm tb works out for you. From what ive read those 90mm tbs are extreme overkill- and the 60mm tb flow in a lot more air than the head can physicaly allow. Id imagine a 90mm tb will let you flow in the maximum amount of air with much less throttle than before (essentialy being at max throttle, before youre even to the floor), and make the throttle control that much more difficult. Looking forward to see how it does for you.

Just a thought on that 10.8 front and 11.8 rear- Is it possible the front is vented, and the rear isnt? Wouldnt be the first time Ive seen a set up like that.

Ignition could be breaking up at higher rpms. Have you solved the problem by now? What was it if so?

Kind of hijacking my own thread here I guess, But i found a company online that sells a lot of rims for damn great prices. They have 16x8 Rota RBs for 550 shipped, in a few offsets and a lot of colors. They have other sizes as well. http://www.jlbmotorsports.com/rims.html Check them out

Talk about a bump from my past, I figured the guy just stopped comming here. But this is pretty much what I meant, i was hoping for more details. I should have been more specific haha

20-50? Ick, too thick.

Problem Solved Want to see something funny, who cant spot the problem? This picture was taken weeks ago while ago. Oh how it mocks me now. Thanks for the help everyone- Yes it was just simply my dumbass not noticing the front freeze plug was in. The Coolant system now holds pressure on its own, as does the oil. 10 psi at cranking. I just need to test the fuel system now and i should be about ready to fire it up. Heres hoping. Assuming all goes well and i dont have a catostrophic system melt down, i should have it tuned within a week or so. Ill be posting some graphs/videos- so stay tuned. I dont think ive ever seen oil do this? Why would it? Ive seen it turn to a nice milk shake consistancy, but never seen it caramelize Theres only a bit in there im assuming (The dipstick read full and i only used about 4-5 quarts to fill it) but im really not terribly worried about it. It will be easy enough to fix with a regular garden hose, justl eave the system open at one spot and let it blow through for awhile.

Ill get some tonight, but ya- thats the rough idea. It wasnt highly pressurized, my finger tip was the only thing sealing the block against the compressed air, and even then only a small amount of compressed air was use- just wanted to see if we could get some kind of response from the oil pressure sensor Edit: Problem solved. At least I damn well hope so. We decided to pressurize the coolant system this time, see if we could hear where it was leaking through at and track down the problem. Soon as we did our ears were drawn to the loud wooshing sound in the front of the motor. A quick glance at my old block, and a double check with a flash light on my new motor later confirmed the thought. My buddy never put in the front freeze plug, and in my hurry while putting on the timing chain and cover, I never noticed. Ill have this fixed tonight within the next few hours and ill update again. Cross your fingers and heres hoping.

Must admit im feeling rather frustrated. Finally finished rebuilding my engine, f54 turbo block, and we finally went to pour in the oil and prime it. First sign of trouble came when there was no oil pressure. Pulled the oil line off the turbo to see if anything was flowing, nothing. So we decided to put some pressure through it via an air hose into the inlet on the valve cover to see what happened. Oil started to pour out of the coolant inlet on the front passenger side of the block at an alarming rate (the hoses werent connected and there was no water in the block, hadnt gotten that far yet). I dont mean a slight trickle, it was litteraly pouring and gushing out of the inlet. For the life of me i cant figure out what would let the oil pour out like this, at first i was thinking a crack somewhere or something, but i dont think the oil would be able to flow that badly if that was it. Is there a seal i could have missed? something that should have been plugged somewhere that wasnt? Any help would be helpful. Once again, thanks everyone. Edit: Just realized i made a complete goof on the title as well, what i get for making this at 4 am last night.

Just a PPP shop out here in socal that a buddy pointed me towards. If you can afford to take the windows out, or are able to do it yourself- I highly suggest it.

Saw a PM from someone but cant seem to find it now- Hopefully you find this. Ive been asked this a few times, so maybe it can help some others out too- Its hard to say how much I spent, for what I got, not a lot- but it wasnt cheap either. Everything start to finish, not including the tool i already had, was probably about 600 bucks. 3-400 for the paint, primer, base, and clear, sand paper, masking materials, cleaning materials, masking materials, etc. ive also been asked a lot about the quality- Quality of the paint- at least what i got, is pretty damn good in my experiences. Its as good as any factory paint youll find on the street. The quality of MY paint job, not so much. There was a lot of things to learn and i dived in head first, theres a lot i can redo better the second time. Theres dust in the clear coat, and a single section is slightly striped (You can ONLY see it in the brightest of direct light, so its not that bad- but still- sigh.). The quality of the paint job itself all comes down to you, how you mask things, and prep things, etc. If you mask things off, or remove everything. If you get the chance, i HIGHLY suggest removing your windows. Limited budget and experience didnt allow me to, so theres some defects around there- I removed pretty much everything else I could, and most of those areas came out ok. I dont really have any new pictures, the car hasnt moved yet since its still being rebuilt. Ive finially finished putting the motor back together and its in the car, so im almost there. MY final check list is pretty minor, hook up my gauge, power wire for my fuel pump, hook up the fuel rail, finish frabricating my intake pipes, and connect the haltech harness to my sensors- Then its off to the dyno to find out what it does.

85-88 are the flat brackets right? Ive read this needs machine work- but this post makes them sound nearly bolt on- And i keep seeing various answers to this. Can anyone with some experience chime in? What does it take to really make the flat brackets work? Are there any bolt on options for the flat brackets or no?

Anyone recognize these mirrors? Suit the car really well to me. That and its pretty badass to see a Z sliding around like that. I wish I Could find more videos of these things drifting..

Whats roddys member name? Id like to dig up some of his posts and see if i can find anything

Found this beaut on craigslist. http://lexington.craigslist.org/pts/1139069343.html I wonder if his headlight motors still work. Some idiot before me removed mine off my 240Z!

Awesome. Time to finish putting things together now. Thanks again everyone